GRECO-ROMAN CITIES OF AEGEAN TURKEY HISTORY, ARCHAEOLOGY, ARCHITECTURE Henry Matthews EGE YAYINLARI GRECO-ROMAN CITIES OF AEGEAN TURKEY HISTORY, ARCHAEOLOGY, ARCHITECTURE Henry Matthews © 2014 Ege Yayınları & Henry Matthews ISBN 978-605-4701-41-4 Publisher Certificate No: 14641 All rights reserved. Copyediting İnci Türkoğlu Cover and Graphic Design Aydın Tibet Front Cover: Athena Temple, Priene Back Cover: Trajan Temple, Pergamon Printing Oksijen Basım ve Matbaacılık San. Tic. Ltd. Şti. 100. Yıl Mah. Matbaacılar Sit. 2. Cad. No: 202/A Bağcılar - İstanbul/ Türkiye Tel: +90 (212) 325 71 25 Fax: +90 (212) 325 61 99 Certificate No: 29487 Production and Distribution Zero Prodüksiyon Kitap-Yayın-Dağıtım San. Ltd. Şti. Abdullah Sokak, No: 17, Taksim, 34433 İstanbul/Türkiye Tel: +90 (212) 244 7521 Fax: +90 (212) 244 3209 E.mail: [email protected] www.zerobooksonline.com www.egeyayinlari.com TABLE OF CONTENTS Author’s note .................................................................................................................................................. 7 Introduction ........................................................................................................................................................9 Chapters on cities in a north-south sequence Troy ..................................................................................................................................................................... 41 Alexandria Troas ........................................................................................................................................ 59 Chryse (Smintheion, Gülpınar) ........................................................................................................ 63 Assos ................................................................................................................................................................... 67 Pergamon ......................................................................................................................................................... 81 Smyrna (Izmir)........................................................................................................................................... 111 The Çeşme Peninsula: Teos & Clazomenae ......................................................................... 117 Sardis ............................................................................................................................................................... 125 Hierapolis ..................................................................................................................................................... 137 Laodicea on the Lycus .......................................................................................................................... 159 Aphrodisias ................................................................................................................................................. 175 Ephesus .......................................................................................................................................................... 207 Magnesia on the Maeander ............................................................................................................. 255 Priene ............................................................................................................................................................... 263 Miletus ........................................................................................................................................................... 289 The Oracle and Temple of Apollo at Didyma .................................................................... 319 Herakleia under Latmos .................................................................................................................... 329 Euromos ........................................................................................................................................................ 335 Labraunda .................................................................................................................................................... 339 Halikarnassos (Bodrum) ..................................................................................................................... 349 Travel, accommodation and food .............................................................................................. 353 Glossary ..........................................................................................................................................................355 Credits ........................................................................................................................................................... 360 Index ................................................................................................................................................................. 363 About the author ...................................................................................................................................... 368 Folded endpaper: Chronological table & migration map 5 Troy Alexandria Troas Smintheion Assos Pergamon Smyrna Sardis Clazomenae Teos Ephesus Hierapolis Magnesia Laodikeia Priene Aphrodisias Miletus Herakleia Euromos Didyma Labraunda Halikarnassos Author’s Note I first became fascinated by the Greek cities of Turkey as an architec- ture student at Cambridge. I studied and lectured on Greek and Roman architecture for many years before I travelled to Aegean Turkey. Then, standing among the ruins, I found that I needed a much fuller understand- ing of the history of the region and the details of the sites. George Bean’s pioneering guide Aegean Turkey (1966) and Ekrem Agurgal’s Ancient Civilizations and Ruins of Turkey (1970) were valuable companions as I toured the cities. When I returned home, I studied many volumes produced by archaeologists and read articles on the most recent discoveries, but I felt compelled to write the guide I wished I had had with me on my first trips. My goal is to clarify the complex political and social history of the region and bring the architecture of twenty cities to life in as much detail as the reader can absorb while visiting. I could not have done so without the help of the authors mentioned above or the archaeologists whose years of expert work revealed the essential knowledge. They are too numerous to mention here but their works are listed in the Further Read- ing page at the end of this book. I thank many of them for permission to reproduce their drawings. I am grateful to Brian Johnson who first suggested that I write this guide as well as İnci Türkoğlu who introduced me to Ege Publishers, gave me valuable advice and edited the book. Finally I express gratitude to my wife Susan Noyes Platt for her patience during my absences in Turkey, her par- ticipation in some of my trips there, and for valuable editorial suggestions. Names of places and individuals in the classical world have been spelled in various ways by English speaking people; many Greek names ending in –os changed to –us in Latin. I have chosen the version that appears to be the most common. Henry Matthews, Seattle 2014 7 Temple of Dionysus, designed in 220-205 BCE by the architect Hermogenes of Priene 116 INTRODUCTION THE ÇEME PENINSULA The Çeşme peninsula projects westward into the Aegean between the Bay of Izmir and the Bay of Kuşadası. Today, with its sandy beaches, spas hotels, private villas and restaurants, it is the summer playground for Izmir. A highway carries visitors quickly to the busy resort of Çeşme, which lies at the western end, only a dozen kilometers from the Greek island of Chios. In contrast, the ancient ruins at Clazomenae and Teos belong to another world. They occupy peaceful sites that provide a link to the days of the Ionian League. TEOS Teos was first settled during the tenth century BCE, in the Dark Age, by Greeks from Orchomenos, an important Bronze Age city in Boetia, to the north of Thebes. The excellent town site between two harbours also attracted migrants from Athens and other parts of Ionia. Spurred by the large capacity of its harbours, Teos developed important trade routes to many Mediterranean and Black Sea cities. By the seventh century, Teos became famous for its wool. In the sixth century BCE, it joined with other Hellenic cities in building a temple at Naukratis in Egypt, an indi- cation of its strong commercial interests there. Thales of Miletus, the father of Greek philosophy and a wise states- man suggested in the early sixth century BCE that Teos should be the political centre of the Panionion, the league of Ionian cities, but this advice was not taken. When the Persians invaded in 546 BCE, rather than defend their city, the Teians sailed to form a colony at Abdera in Thrace. This migration may have been partly motivated by the precious metals mined near there. However, before long, many of them returned and reoccupied Teos. The two cities maintained close political, religious and commercial relations and, in the sixth century, minted similar coins representing a griffin, the mythical creature associated with Dionysus. 117 By the time of the Ionian Revolt against Persia (499-493 BCE) the city had grown wealthy enough to provide seventeen ships for the Ionian fleet, which they lost in the fateful battle of Lade in 494. After Alexander the Great’s liberation of the Greek cities, and its