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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. Stefan Hey, Stefan Pielmeier, Stefanie Hess, Susan OUR READERS Waldock, Sveta Karelsky, Tawny Welch, Tessa Her- Many thanks to the travelers who used the last manussen, Tiffany Doan, Veronika Arnyas-Turcsanyi, edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Vetillart Tania, Walter Soplin, Wendelin Zahoransky, advice and interesting anecdotes: Wendy Grayburn, Wesley Reisser, Willeke Norder and Abby Furnish, Adriana Kaufmann, Ailniery Wu, Yvonne Streit. Alberto Garro, Aleix Megias, Aleksei Trofimov, Alfonso Mendocilla, Amy Wattridge, Andrea Meichtry, Andrea Polvicino, Andreas Dehlholm-Lambertsen, AUTHOR THANKS Andreas Pecnik, Andrew Agnew, Andy Aegerter, Carolyn McCarthy Anne de la Vega, Ansie Serbon, Badong Abesamis, Many thanks go out to the Peruvian chefs and street Benjamin Kutz, Bertolt Eicke, Blanquart Noemie, vendors who played a key role in my contentment. Brooke Aldrich, Candida Silva, Carlos Manay, Carol I am also grateful for the friendship, advice and Janney, Celine Heinbecker, Charles Motley, Christa assistance of Jorge Riveros Cayo, Arturo Rojas, Jenni, Christian Jay, Christoph Frigge, Danielle Mandy Kalitsis, Louise Norton, Elizabeth Shumaker, Breitenbuecher, Dave Dalpiaz, David Johnson, John Leivers, Paolo Greer and Illa Liendo. To my hard Davide Camisa, Deborah Galef, Desiree Weins, working co-authors, a chilled pisco sour and cheers. Diego Corimanya, Edwin Junco, Elizabeth MacLean, Erica Lazarow, Francesco Davi, Guy Duke, Hanna Greg Benchwick Hommes, Havala Hanson, Helen O’Leary, Jackie Muchísimas gracias to my coordinating author Chase, Jandra Fischer, Jean-Philippe Hardy, Jenna Carolyn McCarthy and the trailblazers who worked Lindsay, Jenny Blaker, Jesus Villacorta, Jim Doherty, on previous editions. These books are a team effort JoAnn Spangler, Johan Desser, Johan Reinhard, Jorge and my dynamic destination editor MaSovaida Riveros-Cayo, Kate Convissor, Kathy Kieffer, Kelsi Morgan and the rest of the LP Crew are amazing! Luhnow, Kiara Gallop, Kristina Solheim, Laura King, While I came close to throwing him from the car, my Laura Sanfilippo, Laurent Tschumi, Lisa Bucolo, Lynn co-pilot for adventures in the north, Santiago, did Haanen, Marco Rodriguez, Marie Rognes, Mary de reveal many unique insights into the Peruvian (and Sousa, Massimiliano Malloni, Michele Oechsle, Mitch human) condition. Thanks for going the extra mile to Gruber, Nicole McGrath, Patricia Kohlmann, Paul Maria Isabel at Sipán Tours, Peter at Aproturpisco, Dumont, Pedro Obando, Philip Jensen, Rick Vecchio, and beautiful Sandra at Desert Travel in Ica. Last, but Roberto Filho, Rudy Bovee, Ryan Bates, Sabine never least, this book is for Violeta. Gerull, Sandeep Gaonkar, Sandy Lee, Sebastian Engel, Sheena Gilby, Sonia Matlochova, Sophie Young, 561 Alex Egerton Luke Waterson Thanks to all those who helped out on the road Wow – another list here as long as an epic Andean in Peru – too many to mention – but big shouts bus journey! Firstly, Marcel: thank you for an to Adriana Von Hagen, Rob and Jose in Chachas, unforgettable trans-Andean jeep ride. Lucho (in Susan in Celendin, and Lluis and the drunk Chileno Huancayo), Pauline (in Ayacucho), Gerson and guinea pigs in Amazonas. In Huaraz and surrounds, Donald (in Puerto Maldonado), Ryse and Katie (in special thanks to Juan, Pablo, Marie and David, Cuzco), James (in Yurimaguas) and Bill and Analia BEHIND THE SCENES Alberto, Rex, Julio, Chris, and the Respons team. At (in Iquitos) also deserve a special mention, as do LP, thanks to Carolyn for being supportive as usual the myriad taxi, bus, boat and plane drivers/pilots and MaSovaida for bringing it all together. who DIDN’T crash and wove together the fabric of yet another unforgettable trip to this unforgettable Phillip Tang land. In Arequipa, thanks to Paul and José-Luis for hos- pitality. Thanks Luis for the night walk and mirador. To Ingrid for condor adventures; LA Raúl and Nuvia ACKNOWLEDGMENTS for laughs. Justo Béjar and José Lopera in Lima; Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson and Gabriel, Yoko and Kristian in La Paz. Mostly, BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map thanks to the Aussies and Mexicans who made re- of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, turning a joy: Lisa N’paisan, Shane, Lee, Vek Lewis, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Wendy Risteska, Ben and Waimei Garcia-Lee, Craig Cover image: Young girl in traditional dress, Burgess, Jocsan L Alfaro, Manuel Aveleyra García, Michael Melford/Alamy Alberto R Romero and Ernesto A Alanis Cataño. Destination Editor Assisting Cartographer THIS BOOK MaSovaida Morgan David Kemp This 9th edition of Lonely Product Editors Cover Researcher Planet’s Peru guidebook Catherine Naghten, Naomi Parker was researched and written Martine Power Thanks to Bruce Evans, by Carolyn McCarthy, Greg Senior Cartographer Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Benchwick, Alex Egerton, Mark Griffiths Andi Jones, Kate Mathews, Phillip Tang and Luke Book Designer Wayne Murphy, Karyn Noble, Waterson. The previous edition Virginia Moreno Kirsten Rawlings, Julie was also written by Carolyn, Susie Sheridan, Ellie Simpson, with Carolina A Miranda, Kevin Assisting Editors Ashworth, Judith Bamber, Ross Taylor, Angela Tinson, Raub, Brendan Sainsbury and Helen Koehne, Kellie Langdon, Tracy Whitmey Luke Waterson. This guidebook Charlotte Orr, Monique Perrin, was produced by the following: Gabrielle Stefanos ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 562 Index A Andahuaylillas 262-3 La Congona 426 accommodations 141, 151-4 Abancay 270 Andean condor 525 Laguna de los activities 148-50 Abra de Ccorao 213 Andes, the 524 Cóndores 426 climate 141 Abra la Raya 175 food 225 Marcahuamachuco 415 courses 150 abseiling 110 languages 556 Monumento Nacional drinking & nightlife 156-7 Wilkahuaín 367 accommodations 532-3, see animals 524-7, see emergencies 158 also individual locations also individual species Nazca Lines 15, 126-7, 130, entertainment 157 515, 15 language 553-4 aqueducts 129 festivals & events 151 Ollape 423 Acobamba 284-5 archaeological sites & food 141 Oyu Oyu 166 activities 35-40, see ruins 23 highlights 142 Pacatnamú 333 also individual activities Antaymarca 169 internet access 158 Palpa Lines 126 events 25, 26, 28 Batán Grande 344 medical services 158 Paracas Necropolis 117, 515 Acurio, Gastón 490, 512 Cahuachi 129 shopping 157-60 Paramonga 311 addresses 535 Cajamarquilla 105 sights 143-8 Pinkulluna ruins 245 Aguaruna people 521 Candelabra Geoglyph 116 tourist information 158-9 Piquillacta 262 Aguas Calientes 249-53, 250 Cantallo Aqueducts 129 tours 150-1 Piruro 279 air travel 543-5, 547, 544 Caral 311, 514 travel seasons 141 Alarcón, Daniel 523 Cerro Baúl 135 Pueblo Perdido Matata 166 transportation 159-60 Alca 169 Chan Chan 18, 325, 5, 18 Pumamarka 245 art galleries, see museums Alpamayo 384 Chauchilla Cemetery 128 & galleries Puruchuco 105 altiplano 275, 278 Chavín de Huántar 15, artesanía, see ­handicrafts Q’enqo 236 altitude sickness 175, 199 397-8, 514-15, 15 Artesonraju 378 Quillaromi 277 aluviones 370 Complejo Arqueológico la arts 522-3 Huaca del Brujo 328-9 Runkurakay 259 Amaru 238 Asháninka people 521 Cueva de los Toros 173 Santuario Histórico Amaru, Túpac 496 Asia 108 El Castillo de Bosque de Pomac 344 Amazon Basin 52, Huarmey 516 Sechín 312 astronomical observatories 438-88, 439 & planetariums El Cuarto del Rescate 408 Sillustani 183 accommodations 438 Cañón del Colca 163 Fortaleza de Chimpa 166 Sipán 341 climate 438 Cuzco 204 Gran Vilaya 422 Sondor 308 food 438 Nazca 127 Huaca Arco Iris 328 Susupillo 279 highlights 439 Tarma 282 Huaca Cao Viejo 329 Tambo de Mora 111 jungle lodges 443 astronomy 204 Huaca de la Luna 328 Tarmatambo 282 planning 457 Atahualpa 496-506 Huaca del Sol 328 Temple of Kotosh 277 tourist information 456 Atalaya 459 Huaca Esmeralda 327-8 Toro Muerto travel seasons 438 ATMs 536 Huaca Huallamarca 68-9 Petroglyphs 168 Amazon River 164 Ausangate 268-9 Huaca Prieta 329 Túcume 343 American Popular Ventanillas de Combayo Ayacucho 299-307, 300 Revolutionary Huaca Pucllana 73 414-15 accommodations 303-4 Alliance 502 Huamachuco 415 Ventanillas de Otuzco 414 churches 299 Ampay 270 Huanca ruins 285 Wari Ruins 307 courses 302 amusement parks 134 Huellas de los Wilkahuaín Pequeno 367 drinking & nightlife 305-6 Andagua 169 Dinosaurios 400 Wiracochapampa 415 entertainment 306 Andahuaylas 307-8 Kalasaya 175 Karajía 422 Yalape 424 festivals & events 16, 302-3, 16 Kuélap 16, 424-6, 16 Yurac Rumi 267 food 304-5 Map Pages 000 Kuntur Wasi 415-16 area