Atlas of Polish Folk Costume Special Issue FOLK DRESS AS A CULTURAL PHENOMENON Scientific editors ANNA WERONIKA BRZEZIŃSKA MARIOLA TYMOCHOWICZ POLISH ETHNOLOGICAL SOCIETY Wrocław 2013 ATLAS OF POLISH FOLK COSTUME published by the Polish Ethnological Society, ul. Fryderyka Joliot-Curie 12, 50-383 Wrocław, phone +48 375 75 83, phone/fax +48 71 375 75 84, e-mail: [email protected], www.ptl.info.pl Editor-in-chief: Anna Weronika Brzezińska Deputy editor: Justyna Słomska-Nowak Secretary editor: Mariola Tymochowicz Translators: Anna Jelec Anna Broniarek Agnieszka Marciniak Aleksandra Iwasiewicz Scientific supervision in Polish: Anna Weronika Brzezińska Mariola Tymochowicz Scientific supervision in English: Anna Weronika Brzezińska Kinga Czerwińska Reviewers: Irena Bukowska-Floreńska Katarzyna Marciniak Publishing editor: Justyna Słomska-Nowak Graphic design and typesetting: Katarzyna Tużylak Cover graphics: Julia Anastazja Sienkiewicz-Wilowska Translation of the book into English financed by the Ministry of Science and Higher Education © Copyright by Polskie Towarzystwo Ludoznawcze and Renata Bartnik, Anna Weronika Brzezińska, Hubert Czachowski, Kin- ga Czerwińska, Anna Czyżewska, Jolanta Dragan, Sylwia Geelhaar, Hanna Golla, Barbara Hołub, Katarzyna Ignas, Małgorzata Imiołek, Izabela Jasińska, Janusz Kamocki, Tymoteusz Krol, Małgorzata Kunecka, Małgorzata Kurtyka, Magdalena Kwiecińska, Agnieszka Ławicka, Joanna Minksztym, Alicja Mironiuk-Nikolska, Aleksandra Paprot, Elżbieta Piskorz-Branekova, Ludmiła Ponomar, Justyna Słomska-Nowak, Stanisława Trebunia--Staszel, Mariola Tymochowicz Published as part of the grant project The Atlas of Polish Folk Costume: a continuation of the publishing work, field research and source queries, as well as digitalisation of sources and sharing the information on the Internet, No. 11H 12 0261 81, financed from the resources of the National Humanities Development Programme ISBN 978-83-87266-64-6 Introduction – contemporary research problems regarding traditional dress 5 Hubert Czachowski, Justyna Słomska-Nowak Traditional costumes from another perspective… Between the aesthetic and philosophical dimensions of rustic clothing 9 Anna Weronika Brzezińska Traditional dress - from the biography of an object to the identity of the subject 15 Barbara Hołub Female headgear as a type of sign 25 Małgorzata Imiołek Objectives, functions and new research aspects of contemporary studies on traditional folk costumes (based on the paper „Folk costumes of Kielecczyzna”) 35 Alicja Mironiuk-Nikolska „Colourful hosts of reapers” - Can photographs from the first presidential harvest home elebrations in Spała in 1927 serve as material for research on traditional costume ? 45 Ludmiła Ponomar Linguistic and ethnographic research on the traditional costume of the Polesie region 51 Joanna Minksztym What has been ignored… Directions of development of the traditional fabric and costume collections; on the basis of the collection of the Ethnographic Museum in Poznań 59 Sylwia Geelhaar Reconstructing the traditional dress of Dolne Powiśle (Lower Vistula region) 69 Aleksandra Paprot Can the folk dress of Żuławy be considered traditional? 79 Janusz Kamocki Costumes of Hungarian Poles from Spisz 89 Izabela Jasińska Costumes of the participants in Harvest Home processions in villages and towns of the Opolszczyzna region (2005-2012) 91 Małgorzata Kurtyka Reconstructing the traditional dress of Zagłębie 97 Hanna Golla Traditional costume of Dolny Śląsk (Lower Silesia). Tradition vs modernity 103 Tymoteusz Król Traditional dress or folk band stage costume? Wilamowice traditional dress in contemporary times 111 Stanisława Trebunia-Staszel The chic ladies of Podhale and local fashion designers 119 Kinga Czerwińska Traditional costumes of Śląsk Cieszyński (Cieszyn Silesia): traditions, metamorphoses, perspectives 131 Magdalena Kwiecińska Cracow traditional dress in urban spaces 143 Elżbieta Piskorz-Branekova Terminology issues around the traditional costumes from the area of Hrubieszów and Tomaszów Lubelski 151 Agnieszka Ławicka The beauty is in the details. Decorative elements in the folk dress of Lubelszczyzna 161 Renata Bartnik Folk dress of Powiśle Lubelskie and its representations in Polish graphics and painting 167 Mariola Tymochowicz A typology of traditional dress varieties from the lubelskie voivodship 181 Katarzyna Ignas The Przeworsk traditional costume in the folk costume exhibition in the Przeworsk Museum vs. „Przeworsk dress” as a stage costume used by local folk performers 191 Jolanta Dragan Linen cloth in some contexts of traditional Polish culture 207 Anna Czyżewska, Małgorzata Kunecka The „Polish Folk Costumes on the Internet” Project - a classic ethnographic subject seen from a new perspective 217 References 223 Summary (Marta Świtała) 245 Zusammenfassungen (Sylwia Geelhaar, Tim Geelhaar) 252 Резюме (Julia Prakofewa) 260 Introduction – contemporary research problems regarding traditional dress white russet coat with a straight or rolled collar constitutes the male dress; decorations and lapels are red, crimson or light blue. They are fastened with a belt of the same shade. (…) Boots are worn high. They wear shearling caps or straw hats, or black hats „ that are quite tall although with a narrow brim. The ladies of Sandomierz wear almost the sameA fashions as women in Cracow. If they wear fewer strings of beads it is only so that they can use more beads of different colours. The ruffs they add to their collars reach their shoulders”1. The description of traditional dress quoted above comes from the „Przyjaciel ludu” magazine published in Leszno in 1846. This is how traditional dress worn by the inhabitants of the sandomierskie region had been described. Such descriptions were typical of mid-19th century ethnic studies, because their aim was to record the 5 functioning aspects of folk culture. But can we say that contemporary ethnological descriptions differ substantially from their above-mentioned counterparts? The way in which different phenomena are re- corded, analysed and interpreted had certainly changed. The description of the dress itself often serves as an introduction to a detailed analysis of the manufacturing and ornamentation processes. It may be a commentary on aesthetics and the fleeting nature of fashion, or an observation on the way popular and mass culture influence the functions of traditional dress. Krystyna Hermanowicz-Nowak distinguishes three periods in the history of interest in rural dress: (1) prior to the First World War, when the researchers „charmed by how beautiful was the work of the people set out to (…) study and describe folk dress as a whole, and its respective elements”2; (2) the in- terwar period, during which many works had been written on the topic, mostly about areas in the East and North; (3) after the Second World War, when in 1949 the Polish Ethnological Society was inspired by Dr. Józef Grajek to publish the Atlas of Polish Folk Costume3. The first issue of this series, titled „Strój górali szczawnickich” (“Traditional dress of the Szczawnica highlanders”) was devoted to the dress of the highlanders form the vicinity of Szczawnica. It was published in 1949. The author was Roman Reinfuss, one of the series’ originators. The release of this issue marked the beginning of a project that lasts to this day. The aim of the project is to publish a series of monographs describing folk dress from a variety of regions of the country4, bearing in mind that their function has changed throughout the years. The final 1 O. Kolberg, Radomskie, part I, Dzieła wszystkie vol. 20, Cracow: Polskie Towarzystwo Muzyczne, Ludowa Spółdzielnia Wydawnicza 1964, pp. 50. 2 K. Hermanowicz-Nowak, Stan badań nad strojem ludowym w Polsce (próba oceny dotychczasowych osiągnięć) [The state of the research on traditional dress in Poland: an attempt to assess current achievements], „Konteksty. Polska Sztuka Ludowa”, No 1: 1977, pp. 3. 3 Ibid. 4 See: Gajek J., Metodyka monograficznego opracowywania strojów ludowych [The methodology of monographic studies on folk dress], „Lud” vol.41: 1954, pp. 797-805; Reinfuss R., Instrukcja w sprawie materiału ilustracyjnego do Atlasu Polskich Strojów Ludowych [Instructions for illustrations to the Atlas of Polish Folk Dress], „Lud” vol. 41: 1954, pp. 806-807. Some sources for research devoted to dress can be found in the archives of the Polish Ethnographic Atlas in Cieszyn. They are reviewed in: Brzezińska A. W., Słomska J., Odzież ludowa na pograniczu polsko-słowackim w świetle badań atlasowych – wybrane elementy [Remarks on folk dress in the Polish-Slovak borderlands in light of atlas studies], in: R. Stolićna, A. Pieńczak, Z. Kłodnicki (eds.), Polska-Słowacja. Pogranicze kulturowe i etniczne [Poland-Slovakia. Ethnic and cultural borderland], series: Archiwum Etnograficzne vol. 49, Wrocław-Cieszyn: Wydawnictwo Polskiego Towarzystwa Ludoznawczego 2009, pp. 93-116. 38th issue was published in 2008. Its author was Barbara Bazielich5 who had been the series’ editor for many years. Multiple researchers have studied issues related to folk dress over the course of several do- zen years during which issues of the Atlas were published. The 1950s were the golden age of folk dress. 22 monographs were published in that period (see Figure 1). Afterwards, it was not infrequent to have gaps of several years between the monographs that were published. This was due to a lack of financial resources what would cover the cost of print, and reimburse the authors for the cost of gathering data.