COMPILERS NOTES The following is a faithful digitalization of volume IV of F.Y. Golding’s BOOTS AND SHOES. I have taken the liberty of using this original blank page to comment on the material within. Insofar as I was able, I have endeavoured to preserve the appearance, formatting, kerning, spacing, etc,. of the original work. Sometimes, however, this was simply not possible. The typefaces used in the original text are not precisely duplicated in any of the font sets to which I have access. Then too, the spacing between chapter, paragraph, and graphic elements is often inconsistent within the original text. Sometimes a chapter heading will be set an inch and a quarter below the edge of the page, sometime an inch and a half. Sometimes, using a given set of paragraph styles, a page would format almost to the exact word at the bottom margin...and then the next page would run over or come up substantially short. Nevertheless, I have preserved page numbers and the contents of those pages to fairly close extent. Additionally, there are some illustrations that I have “re-drawn,” so to speak. This process involved “tracing” the original (as faithfully as is humanly possible) in order to clarify a drawing, or areas of a drawing which, because of “shading” or other “textures,” would not have displayed or printed well. I had some initial qualms about this but, in the end, felt that the result was no different than substituting a contemporary typeface for one that was no longer available. Presenting the information in a clear forme is the whole point, after all. Beyond that, nothing has been added or subtracted from the text as it is contained in the original volumes in my possession. It is my fervent hope that this work will help to preserve the Trade and make this invaluable resource more accessible to those students seeking to learn from the past masters. DWFII – 28 June 2004 BOOTS AND SHOES THEIR MAKING MANUFACTURING AND SELLING VOLUME IV LASTING AND MAKING W. WARDLEY THE FITTING UP OF LASTS GEORGE SABBAGE, A.B.S.I. BOOTS AND SHOES THEIR MAKING MANUFACTURE AND SELLING A WORK IN EIGHT VOLUMES DEALING WITH PATTERN CUTTING AND MAKING. UPPER LEATHERS AND CLICKING, CLOSING THE UPPER, MATERIALS FOR BOTTOMING, CUTTING AND PREPARATION, LASTING AND MAKING, ATTACHING, FINISHING, SHOE ROOM WORK, FACTORY ORGANIZATION, ANATOMY, MEASURING AND OBTAINING DATA FROM THE FOOT, THE MAKING OF LASTS, THE FITTING UP OF LASTS, BESPOKE BOOKMAKING, HANDSEWN BOOTMAKING, RETAILING AND SALESMANSHIP EDITED BY F. Y. GOLDING. F.B.S.I. FOR OVER THIRTY-EIGHT YEARS PRINCIPAL OF THE CORDWAINERS’ TECHNICAL COLLEGE, LONDON VOLUME IV THE NEW ERA PUBLISHING CO., LTD. 12 & 14 NEWTON STREET, HOLBORN, LONDON, W.C.2 PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN AT THE PITMAN PRESS, BATH CONTENTS SECTION VII LASTING AND MAKING CHAP. PAGE PREFACE .......3 I. TOOLS ........5 II. BENCH LASTING–MACHINE-SEWN SYSTEM . 13 III. LASTING–METHOD ONE ....39 IV. SHAPES OF LASTS AND HOIST METHODS . 50 V. WHATIS LASTING .....61 VI. RELATIONOF PULLS .....68 VII. DRAFT .......73 VIII. BOTTOMING–MACHINE-SEWN . 77 IX. VARIATIONS IN ATTACHMENT OF MACHINE- SEWN BOTTOM-STOCK ....82 X. BENCH LASTING–WELTED SYSTEM . 88 XI. MAKING THE BRACING THREAD AND TRIM- MING THE INSEAM .....95 XII. SOLING .......101 XIII. THE MACHINE TURNSHOE AND THE VELDT- SHOEN .......108 XIV. TEAM SYSTEMS .....114 XV. MACHINE LASTING–MACHINE SEWN SYSTEM 119 XVI. THE CONSOLIDATED HAND-METHOD LASTING MACHINE ......135 XVII. THE “REX” ROTARY POUNDING UP MACHINE 145 XVIII. MACHINE LASTING–WELTED SYSTEM . 152 XIX. THE WELDED OR ADHERED PROCESS OF ATTACHMENT .....173 v vi CONTENTS SECTION VIII THE FITTING UP OF LASTS CHAP PAGE PREFACE .......183 I. THE VARIOUSTOOLS USED ....185 II. SABBAGE’S SECTIONIZER FOR THE LOCATION AND DIMENSIONS OF FITTINGS ON LASTS 189 III. FITTINGS USED, MAKING AND AFFIXING . 195 IV. SELECTING LASTS TO MEASURE AND PROFILE REQUIREMENTS .....210 V. RELATION OF FOOTWEAR TO THE HUMAN FOOT .......212 VI. LOCATION OF MEASUREMENTS OF FOOT AND LAST .......225 VII. THE DIFFERENCE MADE BETWEEN THE FITTED LAST AND THE FOOT FOR DIFFERENT SORTS OF FOOTWEAR ....228 VIII. THE EFFECTS OF ADDED FITTINGS TO THE SHAPE AND MEASUREMENT OF LASTS . 242 IX. PROPORTIONAL SIZES OF THE FITTINGS– THEIR POSITION ON LASTS AND THE BONES OR JOINTS THEY COVER ....252 INDEX .......259 SECTION VII LASTING AND MAKING BY W. WARDLEY Twenty-eight years Instructor at the Cordwainers’ Technical College PREFACE DURING recent years there have been many remarkable and drastic changes in the boot and shoe industry, and the Lasting and Making branch has been no exception. In this section, the aim has been to give a general outline of the methods as used in the bench process, and their application to the machine systems. The development of machinery, with its gradual elimination of hand processes, has tended to turn lasting into a number of minor but highly specialized operations. The actual process as now carried out by machine is subdivided into four or even five operations, each one separate and yet all closely connected. By continual repetition of a single operation only, one is apt to lose sight of the important bearing that it has upon the ultimate results of the whole process, but with a knowledge of the fundamental principles pertaining to the whole, there is no such danger. For this reason also, both old and new methods have their place in the following pages. My acknowledgments and thanks for the use of illustrations, etc., are gratefully tendered to the British United Shoe Machinery Co. Ltd. and to Messrs. George Barnsley & Sons, Ltd. I must also record my sincere thanks to Mr. F. Y. Golding, whose help and tuition in the past now enable me to place this treatise before you. W. WARDLEY. 3 SECTION VII LASTING AND MAKING CHAPTER I TOOLS IN the manufacture of boots and shoes, the lasting and making department holds a very important place. It is here that the outcome of previous processes, i.e. the uppers and the bottom-stock, meet; it is here that the component parts of the completed shoe are assembled and attached together; it is here that the shoe is built by methods suitable to the style and purpose of the footwear being made, or according to the factory system in vogue. But before proceeding further with this part of the subject, it would be wise for the beginner to acquire a competent knowledge of the various tools required, their uses, and their adaptability to the various processes involved. TOOLS FOR BENCH WORK It is often said that a bad workman always blames his tools. However this may be, the question remains, “Which is to blame—the tools, the manner in which they have been kept, the way they are used, or the one who uses them?” Tools can be used or ill-used. There is one thing certain, a good craftsman strongly objects to anyone else using his tools. Bad tools and bad-conditioned tools spell bad work. 5 6 BOOTS AND SHOES Buy the best tools, keep them in good condition, and learn how to use them. One of the most important tools in a laster’s kit is T HE K NIFE This tool can be used for various purposes, but it is best to keep one specially for shaping and skiving only. The one selected for this purpose should be broad-bladed, of full FIG.1 length, and fairly rigid (as Fig. 1). A blade that is too pliant is worse than useless for good skiving. A good skiving blade may also be obtained of the Swedish type (as Fig. 2). FIG.2 Another important part of the kit is the knife’s “mate,” T HE B UFF-STROP This is not actually a tool, but without it the knife soon becomes useless. Buff-strops can be bought, or made, either flat (two-sided) or square (four-sided)) with a shaped handle, and the flat portions about 12 or 14 in. long. To one of the flat sides should be fastened a piece of emery the full width of the strop; to the other side should be attached a piece of leather. The emery should be fine in grade, as coarse emery tends to “fire” the blade in sharpening, and produces a wire edge to the knife. TOOLS 7 The square buff-strop may be used for two or three grades of emery, according to needs, and one side for leather. T O S HARPEN THE K NIFE For skiving, hold the knife flat on the emery, with the full width of the blade from the back to the cutting edge; then pass it straight down the emery the full length of the strop, sharpening from the point of the knife to the shoulder of the blade. After a few passes in a downward direction, turn the knife over (still keeping it flat on the emery), and make a few passes in an upward direction, to obtain a long cut on the blade. Continue these motions until satisfied that the knife is sharp) then turn the strop over, making a few passes up and down on the leather side to remove any wire or burr caused by the friction on the emery. By now the knife should possess a keen edge and be ready for business. These knives, as they wear down, become handy for smaller jobs in later processes. FIG.3.PINCERS T HE P INCERS These are made in many different shapes and sizes, and should be selected according to the different kinds of work to be done—as large size for heavy work, smaller size for lighter work, narrow jaws for narrow-shaped toes, etc.