A CLEVELAND NATURALISTS' FIELD CLUB BULLETIN 1994 THE CLEVELAND COAST FLORA AND HISTORY 1INTRODUCTION................................................................................................ 1 1.1DETAILS OF THE SURVEY........................................................................ 2 2THE RIVER TEES AND THE SOUTH GARE.................................................... 3 3THE FLORA OF THE COAST............................................................................ 8 3.1SOUTH GARE ............................................................................................ 8 3.2COATHAM DUNES................................................................................... 13 3.3COATHAM AND REDCAR ....................................................................... 14 3.4REDCAR STRAY....................................................................................... 16 3.4.1THE FLORA OF THE STRAY ............................................................ 17 3.5MARSKE.................................................................................................... 18 3.5.1THE FLORA OF THE COAST BETWEEN MARSKE AND SALTBURN. 19 3.6CAT NAB................................................................................................... 21 3.6.1THE FLORA OF CAT NAB................................................................. 21 3.7SALTBURN................................................................................................ 22 3.8SALTBURN TO SKINNINGROVE............................................................. 23 3.8.1FLORA OF THE COAST BETWEEN SALTBURN AND SKINNINGROVE......................................................................................... 25 3.9CATTERSTY SANDS AND SKINNINGROVE........................................... 26 3.10SKINNINGROVE..................................................................................... 27 3.11SKINNINGROVE TO HUMMERSEA....................................................... 29 3.12BOULBY.................................................................................................. 29 3.12.1THE FLORA OF BOULBY................................................................ 31 3.13BOULBY TO COWBAR........................................................................... 32 3.13.1THE FLORA BOULBY TO COWBAR............................................... 33 4EARLY PLANT RECORDS.............................................................................. 33 5CLIMATE.......................................................................................................... 34 6GEOLOGY (STRATIGRAPHY) BETWEEN SOUTH GARE AND COWBAR...35 7SOIL FACTORS............................................................................................... 38 8CONSERVATION OF THE COAST................................................................. 39 9EARLY RECORDS OF THE PLANTS OF THE COAST.................................. 42 10PLANT CLASSIFICATION............................................................................. 44 11THE COASTAL FLORA-Detailed Lists........................................................... 61 11.1SOUTH GARE......................................................................................... 61 11.2COATHAM DUNES................................................................................. 65 11.3REDCAR STRAY..................................................................................... 68 11.4"CLIFF HOUSE", MARSKE TO SALTBURN BANK................................ 70 11.5"CAT NAB", SALTBURN......................................................................... 74 11.6SALTBURN TO SKINNINGROVE........................................................... 75 11.7SKINNINGROVE TO HUMMERSEA....................................................... 79 11.8LOFTUS (LINGBERRY) & BOULBY ALUM MINES & THE COASTAL AREA TO BOULBY COTTAGES.................................................................... 83 11.9BOULBY COTTAGES TO COWBAR...................................................... 85 11.10THE OCCURRENCE OF SPECIES IN THE NINE REGIONS OF THE COASTLINE................................................................................................... 87 1 INTRODUCTION This study of the Cleveland coast is an attempt to show what types of vegetation exist on the coast today and what effect man's activities in the past may have had in moulding our landscape. It is difficult to envisage exactly what our land was like even at the beginning of this century. It is like one big jigsaw puzzle. We have to examine the signs and evidence that are left in order to get a clearer picture of the past. This is why the history of the coast is included in this survey. The topography, climate and geology obviously have a fundamental effect upon what types of vegetation are found in a region but there are virtually no habitats left that are untouched by man's activities in the British Isles. Much of our beautiful landscape has been destroyed, particularly in this last century since the Industrial Revolution but people are at long last beginning to realise that we must make a serious effort to conserve what is left. Before conservation takes place we must know what types of habitats already exist and consider carefully how it is best to preserve them. We don't live in a time capsule; the landscape is constantly changing. We must make sure that any industrialization or urbanization of an area or any other of man's activities don't cause the massive loss of habitats that occured at the beginning of this century when little thought or consideration was given to how these schemes might fit in with the local environment. This study is an attempt to show what type of flora is to be found on the Cleveland coast from South Gare to Cowbar. It is a series of lists of plants and descriptions of their habitats which, I trust, will form a reference document not only for botanists but also for the many groups who are responsible for the preservation of this coast. The lists in themselves have a limited value but they may give some indication of where some of the more sensitive areas of our flora are to be found. We hope that more detailed ecological studies of these habitats will be carried out in the future. The botanical records have been collected over a number of years but most of them have been collected during the last five years. An attempt has been made to collect as many of the old records for the coast as possible. In the old floras and plant lists studied the common plants are usually given no specific sites other than using such headings as abundant, common, hedgerows, fields, moors , woods etc. and so could not be included in our present lists. The ones chosen are where a specific site is listed, eg Coatham Marsh or where a plant has been shown by our surveys to be normally associated with the coast. The present records have mainly come from members of the Cleveland Naturalists' Field Club. This club was established in 1881 and is still flourishing. A few years ago it was decided to form a section of it, a Recorders' Group, and to produce a set of Proceedings. The club ceased the production of these in the early 1930's. It was felt that with all the interest locally in conservation of our environment we could contribute to this by studying some of the local areas. The study of the Cleveland coast has been done by members of the Recorders' Group with an interest in botany either as individual members or working in a group. A number of field-club outings were arranged for the club and information collected on these occasions. Cleveland County Council and Cleveland Borough Council arrange a number of natural history walks in the county; some of these are led by club members and as many of these have 1 been to the coast, valuable information has been collected on these walks. Other societies have visited the area, in particular the Yorkshire Naturalists' Union who have given us their help and advice. It must be stressed that although most of the coast is accessible to the public, some areas are privately owned. South Gare is owned by the Corus Corporation and access is only open to people who work there or who are concerned with other activities in the area. Unlike most of the coast, Corus own the beach right down to the low water mark. Elsewhere the land is owned by the Crown Estate. This means that Corus can refuse access to the foreshore at South Gare, whereas the Crown Estate normally allow access right down to the low water mark. Corus does allow various organisaticns such as the R.S.P.B., the Teesmouth Bird Club and various other clubs to carry out natural history walks and there are others arranged by Cleveland County Council, Cleveland Borough Council wardens and the Tees River wardens. These groups should be approached if anyone is interested in seeing the area. It is possible to walk along the coast from Redcar to Cowbar. There is a cliff path from Saltburn and in places it is possible to walk along the beach here under the cliffs. The cliff path circles inland around two alum mines at Boulby. These mines can be very dangerous owing to falling rocks and there is no access to the general public. The coastal path runs very close to the cliffs in some places, particularly beyond Saltburn; it can be dangerous. Particular care should be taken if children go along this part of the coast. The tides along the coast can be hazardous; always consult a tide table before you set out. If walking below the cliffs watch out for falling rocks. Sea