Cosmos-politans Earth, wind and fire It’s our 50th issue! Buy your tickets A survivor’s guide We’re celebrating now for cocktails to heli-biking in with the 50 best trips in space southern Iceland to take this year By Norwegian February 2017 Issue 50 men green How the search for little into turned one tiny Nevada town an unlikely tourist destination N-001_Cover.indd 1 17/01/2017 08:43 Contributors 2 3 1 1. ERIK OLSSON 2. SIMON BUSCH 3. ROBERT ORMEROD Photographer Erik has shot some of Scandanavia’s Writer and editor Simon left no corner of wild “I love that my job is to literally see the world,” most innovative chefs for the likes of Condé Nast Northern Cyprus unexplored for our feature on says Scottish photographer Robert, whose work Traveler and publisher Phaidon. He was fascinated page 68. But fi tting everything in meant he couldn’t has appeared in The New York Times and The Wall to shoot a different kind of innovator – the inventor linger. “Seeing all those enticing swimming spots, Street Journal. This month his sights were set of a mechanical heart (p31). “I love meeting people and not being able to sample them, was a little even further as he went in search of little green and sharing their knowledge. Dr Najar really made frustrating.” Still, this contributor to The Guardian men near notorious Area 51 in the US (p36). It me think about the endurance needed in his work. and CNN isn’t complaining. “Travel can feel deeply was fascinating stuff, even if the most out-there It’s taken him 17 years and 11 prototypes to get to liberating, and for a writer there are fewer richer happening was the night his car got stuck in the this point.” eof.se sources of material.” aroundthebusch.com frozen desert. robertormerod.co.uk Editorial & Art Advertising Ink © Ink. All material is Editor Sarah Warwick Publisher Pär Svälas Chief Executives strictly copyright and all Deputy Editor Mandi Keighran [email protected] Michael Keating and Simon Leslie rights are reserved. No part of this publication Art Director Sarah Barnett Sales Team Scott Asli, Theodor Creative Director Toby Skinner may be reproduced in Associate Editor Omer Ali Dricu, Shahzeb Gondal, Katriina Editorial Director Kerstin Zumstein whole or part without the prior written Sub editor Kirsten Foster Ramamurthy, Maria Stokke, Group Design Director Jamie Trendall permission of the copyright holder. All Production Manager Antonia Ferraro Vanessa Egui Yanez prices and data are correct at the time Production Controller Karl Martins Advertising Contact N is published on behalf of Norwegian of publication. Opinions expressed in N are not necessarily those of Norwegian, Editor-in-Chief Stine Steffensen Børke [email protected] by Ink, Blackburn House, Blackburn and Norwegian does not accept Norwegian Editors Pia Wagner +44 (0)20 7625 0853 Road, London NW6 1AW responsibility for advertising content. Gerhardsen, Liv Greben Sales Recruitment Editorial Contact Any pictures or transparencies supplied [email protected] +44 (0)20 7625 0737 are at the owner’s risk. Any mention of Norwegian or use of the Norwegian Cover photography Ben Pruchnie [email protected] logo by any advertiser in this publication Website ink-global.com does not imply endorsement of that company, or its products or services by Norwegian. 008\n N-008_contribs_NEW p.8.indd 008 17/01/2017 16:31 Cuba of the Med Northern Cyprus has amazing beaches, ruins and scenery, but its uncertain political status means tourists have tended to favour the south. With reunifi cation and development on the cards, now’s the time to go, says Simon Busch Photography⁄ Ben Roberts n /069 N-068-077 Cyprus.indd 069 17/01/2017 17:44 urtles don’t have an easy start in life. Squashed It’s a diff erent story here in Northern Cyprus, in together in the nest, they fi ght for space and a region that has remained comparitively Tair, often leading to injuries before they even undeveloped. Alagadi, in the centre of the island’s emerge. When they do, they have just hours to forage north shore, has become a nesting spot for the last of for seaweed, jellyfi sh and other aquatic delicacies the Mediterranean turtles; the beach they hatch on is to avoid starvation. a specially protected zone. “Only about one in a thousand make it,” says This lack of development can be attributed to Chloe Slevin, a young volunteer with the Society the region’s annexation by Turkey in the 1970s. In for the Protection of Turtles (cyprusturtles.org), a the years afterwards, the economy was too weak to conservation group on Alagadi Beach that helps to sustain what Cyprus memoirist Joachim Sartorius protect hatchlings from the perils they face. These are called the “new, cheap prosperity” of the south, and its formidable, Slevin explains, from predators to fi shing political isolation discouraged mass overseas tourism to the lights of coastal hotels, which they confuse and investment. As a result, the region feels like a with the moonlight that should guide them to the sea. throwback to an earlier time. Its languid pace of life In fact, these various dangers have been and retro charms have invited comparisons with Cuba responsible for eliminating turtles across most of the – not to mention a similar sultry climate, untamed Mediterranean, where the arrival of mass tourism has beaches and crumbling but picturesque buildings. turned once-wild shorelines into manicured stretches Now the confl ict that has divided Cyprus for the of sand that are better suited to the new human last 40 years may be coming to an end (see box, right). arrivals than the native wildlife. That’s good news, of course, but it will likely » Previous page⁄ The famous ruins of Salamis in Famagusta This page⁄ Golden Sands beach is one of the most beautiful; a turtle hatchling 070\n N-068-077 Cyprus70,77.indd 070 18/01/2017 12:15 What’s the story? Cyprus has been divided since 1974, when Turkey invaded, fearing a Cypriot merger with Greece. The isolation of the resulting entity, the Turkish Republic of “Northern Cyprus has been compared Northern Cyprus, has led to a lack of development to Cuba, for its languid pace of life, in comparison to the south, which had a sultry climate and untamed beaches” tourist boom in the late 1970s. Since then, as busy resorts like Ayia Napa and Paphos have grown in the south, the north has retained its sleepy charm, a slower pace of life and wild stretches of coastline. Forty years on and a solution to the confl ict seems to be in sight, as talks suggest leaders representing north and south are serious about peace. An agreement could be reached early this year. Reunifi cation could bring resources to share – precious water for the south, via the undersea pipeline from Turkey, and natural gas for Turkey in return – as well as the chance for Greek and Turkish Cypriots to be united as one nation again. n /071 N-068-077 Cyprus.indd 071 17/01/2017 17:44 Golden Sands Beach Karpas Peninsula Cape Kormakitis Kyrenia Akanthou Alagadi Turtle Beach United Nations Green Line NORTHERN CYPRUS Nicosia (Capital) Famagusta Varosha SOUTHERN CYPRUS 072\n N-068-077 Cyprus.indd 072 17/01/2017 17:44 A real taste of the north Beware “international menus” in Northern Cyprus. They’re often vintage in quite the wrong way, evoking long-boiled, postwar British grub. bring new development that would change the This page, clockwise from left⁄ Tourist on the Karpas island’s northern shores beyond recognition. Already Peninsula; feral donkeys on the there are already signs that times are changing. The main road; a typical vintage car road along the north and north-east coast is a vast improvement on its bumpy, windy predecessor, Traditional dishes which took twice as long to traverse, and a slick new have a more Turkish marina has been built halfway up the coast. infl ection than in the So now is the time to visit to enjoy all the charms south, including the use of goat or lamb rather of an unspoilt Mediterranean holiday. We took a than pork. One tasty roadtrip to fi nd some of the most interesting spots, until you reach the Karpas Peninsula, aka the Cyprus dish to look out for is before they change for good. Panhandle. This 70km-long spit of land feels like a tatar böregi: lamb and time capsule of the forgotten Med, characterised by onions in soft, ravioli- like parcels with hellim KARPAS PENINSULA implausibly emerald seas, feral donkeys and laid- (halloumi in Greek) Although buses and minibuses cover all major back locals. cheese on top. towns and larger villages, they don’t go to many The donkeys are particularly iconic. Remnants of of the main tourist attractions, so car rental is the Turkish invasion, when thousands of the animals recommended. Although car companies in the south were abandoned here, they’ve become a symbol of may not be happy to rent to those driving north, there the north side of the island. In a small way, they’ve are local outfi ts, such as Baspinar (baspinarrentals. also been a tool of unity, as communities in north and com), which charge from £15 (NOK155) per day. south Cyprus have collaborated on campaigns for Drive north out of Alagadi along a road lined with their protection. They provide frequent road blocks coastal dunes dotted with eerily wind-twisted trees for drivers, using cuteness and simple immovability to extort bread from touristic pilgrims to Apostolos Andreas Monastery near the headland.