The Journal of Dress History Volume 4, Issue 3, Autumn 2020 Front Cover Image: Detail, Tuskegee Airman Edward Gleed, Photographed by Toni Frissell, March 1945, Ramitelli, Italy, © Prints and Photographs Division, The Library of Congress, Washington, DC, United States, LC–F9–02–4503–330–07. Edward Gleed (1916–1990) was photographed by Toni Frissell (1907–1988), an American photographer, known for her fashion photography and war imagery. In this 1945 photograph, Gleed is wearing his uniform and equipment of a Second World War fighter pilot, posing in front of a P–51D Mustang airplane. During the Second World War, Gleed was educated at Tuskegee University (formerly Tuskegee Institute), located near Tuskegee, Alabama; hence, the moniker Tuskegee Airmen, who were the first African–American military aviators and aircrew in the United States Army Air Forces. The Journal of Dress History Volume 4, Issue 3, Autumn 2020 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Ingrid E. Mida Proofreader Georgina Chappell Editorial Assistant Eanna Morrison Barrs Editorial Assistant Zara Kesterton Editorial Assistant Lynda Xepoleas Published Quarterly By The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org/journal The Journal of Dress History Volume 4, Issue 3, Autumn 2020 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org/journal Copyright © 2020 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The ADH supports and promotes the study and professional practice of the history of dress, textiles, and accessories of all cultures and regions of the world, from before classical antiquity to the present day. The ADH is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Journal of Dress History is published quarterly. It is circulated solely for educational purposes and is non–commercial: journal issues are not for sale or profit. The Journal of Dress History is run by a team of unpaid volunteers and is published on an Open Access platform distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is cited properly. Complete issues of The Journal of Dress History are freely available on the ADH website, www.dresshistorians.org/journal. The Editorial Board of The Journal of Dress History encourages the unsolicited submission for publication consideration of academic articles on any topic of the history of dress, textiles, and accessories of all cultures and regions of the world, from before classical antiquity to the present day. Articles and book reviews are welcomed from students, early career researchers, independent scholars, and established professionals. If you would like to discuss an idea for an article or book review, please contact Jennifer Daley, Editor–in–Chief of The Journal of Dress History, at email [email protected]. For updated submission guidelines for articles and book reviews, consult the most recently published journal issue. The Journal of Dress History is designed on European standard A4 size paper (8.27 x 11.69 inches) and is intended to be read electronically, in consideration of the environment. The graphic design utilises the font, Baskerville, a serif typeface designed in 1754 by John Baskerville (1706–1775) in Birmingham, England. The logo of The Association of Dress Historians is a monogram of three letters, ADH, interwoven to represent the interdisciplinarity of our membership, committed to scholarship in dress history. The logo was designed in 2017 by Janet Mayo, longstanding ADH member. The Journal of Dress History Volume 4, Issue 3, Autumn 2020 The Advisory Board The Editorial Board of The Journal of Dress History gratefully acknowledges the support and expertise of The Advisory Board, the membership of which follows, in alphabetical order. Kevin Almond, The University of Leeds, Leeds, England Edwina Ehrman, The Victoria and Albert Museum, London, England Jane Malcolm–Davies, The University of Copenhagen, Copenhagen, Denmark Janet Mayo, Independent Scholar, Bristol, England Sanda Miller, Southampton Solent University, Southampton, England Anna Reynolds, Royal Collection Trust, London, England Aileen Ribeiro, The Courtauld Institute of Art, London England Georgina Ripley, National Museums Scotland, Edinburgh, Scotland Katarina Nina Simončič, The University of Zagreb, Zagreb, Croatia Kirsten Toftegaard, Designmuseum Danmark, Copenhagen, Denmark Benjamin Linley Wild, Manchester Metropolitan University, Manchester, England 1 The Journal of Dress History Volume 4, Issue 3, Autumn 2020 Contents Articles Dressed for Action: Flying Clothing in British Propaganda Material Depicting Royal Air Force Aviators, 1939–1945 Liam Barnsdale 5 Glittering Baubles: An Examination of Chatelaines in Britain, 1839–1900 Jessica Rose Harpley 45 Identifying and Mounting a circa 1863–1902 Monogrammed Chatelaine in the Collection of The Victoria and Albert Museum, London Gill MacGregor 72 Book Reviews Clothing in 17th Century Provincial England Danae Tankard Reviewed by Alison Fairhurst 103 1940s Fashion Fiona Kay and Neil R. Storey Reviewed by Fiona Ibbetson 106 2 The Journal of Dress History Volume 4, Issue 3, Autumn 2020 Dior by Dior: An Autobiography of Christian Dior Christian Dior Reviewed by Caroleen Molenaar 109 Sartorial Politics in Early Modern Europe: Fashioning Women Erin Griffey Reviewed by Sophie Pitman 112 Understanding Illuminated Manuscripts: A Guide to Technical Terms Michelle P. Brown; Revised by Elizabeth C. Teviotdale and Nancy K. Turner Reviewed by Emma Treleaven 115 Back in Fashion: Western Fashion from the Middle Ages to the Present Giorgio Riello Reviewed by Benjamin Linley Wild 118 Additional Sections Obituary Madeleine Ginsburg, 1928–2020 121 Recent PhD Theses in Dress History 124 A Guide to Online Sources for Dress History Research 128 The Editorial Board 157 The Advisory Board 160 Submission Guidelines for Articles and Book Reviews 165 Index of Articles and Book Reviews 166 ADH Membership, Conferences, and Calls For Papers 167 3 The Journal of Dress History Volume 4, Issue 3, Autumn 2020 Welcome Dear ADH Members and Friends, I hope you enjoy reading this issue of The Journal of Dress History, which includes three academic articles, six book reviews, and several additional sections. Of particular note, this issue includes an obituary of pioneering dress historian, museum curator, and longstanding member of The Association of Dress Historians, Madeleine Ginsburg, who passed away recently. You are additionally invited to read the 75 academic articles and 110 book reviews that have been published in The Journal of Dress History to date and which are freely available at www.dresshistorians.org/journal. For your convenience, the webpage also features a comprehensive index to facilitate your search for articles and book reviews. As always, if you have comments about this issue——or an interest in writing an academic article or book review for publication in The Journal of Dress History—— please contact me at [email protected]. I look forward to hearing from you. Best regards, Jennifer Dr. Jennifer Daley, PhD, FHEA, MA, MA, BTEC, BA Editor–in–Chief, The Journal of Dress History Chairman and Trustee, The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org/journal 4 The Journal of Dress History Volume 4, Issue 3, Autumn 2020 Dressed for Action: Flying Clothing in British Propaganda Material Depicting Royal Air Force Aviators, 1939–1945 Liam Barnsdale Abstract Throughout the Second World War, a wide variety of methods were used to promote the actions and characters of the aviators in the Royal Air Force in Britain. In particular, flying clothing was repeatedly included in visual representations of these aviators to encourage their recognition and appreciation by the British public. This article examines visual representations of Royal Air Force aviators and their flying clothing in material including posters and films produced for domestic consumption in Britain during the Second World War (1939–1945). It is argued that the symbolic use of flying clothing in visual material produced and circulated during this period can be divided into three categories of use as propaganda: as a symbol to aid audiences’ identification of aviators; as a means to invite interest and fascination with the Royal Air Force; and as a visual representation to characterise and contextualise depictions of aviators and their surroundings. This usage served to promote Royal Air Force aviators in a manner that encouraged recruitment as well as enhanced popular support for the Royal Air Force and its contribution to Britain’s war effort. 5 The Journal of Dress History Volume 4, Issue 3, Autumn 2020 Introduction Clothing played a pivotal role in visual representations of Royal Air Force aviators that circulated in Britain during the Second World War (1939–1945) and strongly influenced public opinion of the service. For example, depictions of Royal Air Force fighter pilots often highlighted the stylish cut of the Royal Air Force Service Dress1 such that they came to be known as the “glamour boys” of Fighter Command, an adoration bemoaned by many,2