BOTANICALS: A PHYTOCOSMETIC DESK REFERENCE Frank S. D’Amelio, Sr. CRC Press Boca Raton New York i © 1999 by CRC Press LLC Acquiring Editor: Norina Frabotta Project Editor: Susan Fox Marketing Manager: Becky McEldowney Cover design: Violet Liquori Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Catalog record is available from the Library of Congress. This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated. A wide variety of references are listed. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the author and the publisher cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials or for the consequences of their use. Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming, and recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without prior permission in writing from the publisher. The consent of CRC Press LLC does not extend to copying for general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for resale. Specific permission must be obtained in writing from CRC Press LLC for such copying. Direct all inquiries to CRC Press LLC, 2000 Corporate Blvd., N.W., Boca Raton, Florida 33431. Trademark Notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are only used for identification and explanation, without intent to infringe. © 1999 by CRC Press LLC No claim to original U.S. Government works International Standard Book Number 0-8493-2118-2 Printed in the United States of America 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 Printed on acid-free paper ii © 1999 by CRC Press LLC DEDICATION I would like to dedicate this book to my beloved mother for her inspiration and never-ending love for botanicals or as she would say “God’s Herbs.” To my wife Josephine for her enduring patience; to my children; to my beloved grandmother Susan, who gave me my first inspiration for the sciences, when on my seventh birthday surprised me with my first microscope and in later years passed on her knowledge of botanicals to me; and to my father for his encouragement and persevering interest in my work through the years; and special thanks to my brother Michael for his most helpful input. iii © 1999 by CRC Press LLC BOTANICALS: A PHYTOCOSMETIC DESK REFERENCE Botanicals: A Phytocosmetic Desk Reference by Frank S. D’Amelio is a complete Desk Reference covering a large number of botanicals, their various constituents, properties, and uses of importance to plant and cosmetic chemists, pharmacists, herbalists, aromatherapists, and others interested in the properties and uses of botanicals. It is a well written text, nicely illustrated, featuring several hundred monographs of commonly used botanicals. Its pages include various forms of plant extracts, their extraction and identification technologies, and medicinal as well as cosmetic applications. Numerous cosmetic formulations are included, as is an extensive glossary of therapeutic terms and a Botanical Listing for cross-reference purposes. This book is recommended for everyone with interests in the properties and uses of botanicals and their cosmetic applications. Heber W. Youngken Emeritus Dean and Professor College of Pharmacy University of Rhode Island iv © 1999 by CRC Press LLC PREFACE This book is intended to be a brief overview of phytochemistry for the cosmetic formulator. It is in no way intended to be a comprehensive book on botanicals; however, I saw the need for some form of reference book that the cosmetic chemist could have handy. Over the past 25 years while working with botanicals, many cosmetic chemists expressed their interest in such a book. I have kept it to the point and researched to find the most common folkloric use of botanicals and their various constituents. It was almost impossible, in this brief overview, to list all the botanicals and their constituents, as many plants contain several hundred compounds. I listed those that I felt would be of greatest interest, and included a brief overview of phytochemistry, eliminating theory and technique as there are many excel- lent books on this subject which are listed in the bibliography. I have listed current INCI names, with Japanese cross-references. These are, however, constantly changing. In a small book such as this, it is virtually impossible to cover the entire subject of cosmetic and medicinal plants chemistry, but I am confident that the broad spectrum of information included will be very helpful to those involved in cosmetic nutritional and pharmaceutical industries. It is, however, my hope that this book will help to stimulate the reader’s appetite for the further investigation of botanicals. v © 1999 by CRC Press LLC FOREWORD The healer has been with us for as long as man has existed. Initially, just an observer who noted that a certain leaf or mud next to a particular pond soothed and healed a wound faster. Over time, the tenders of the sick and wounded gathered knowledge about those things in nature that performed best. This knowledge differentiated the healer from the rest of the tribal community. They were the loners out in the fields and woodlands gathering, sorting, observ- ing, experimenting. Always wanting to know more, always wanting to find a more active plant, they never ceased being amazed by natures wondrous cures. Originally, the knowledge was passed from master to pupil as it is today in many cultures we in the West classify as primitive. And then the Babylonian, Chinese, and Egyptian healers began to transcribe their secret remedies on to clay tablets and papyrus. The great healers become scientists — botanists and pharmacologists — whose fame spread throughout the land and whose works are treasured to this day, men like Shen Nong, Theophratus, Mithri- dates, Galen, Dioscorides, and Avicenna. When I think of Frank D’Amelio, the vision is of a latter-day cross between the ancient healer whose eyes widen at the thought of experimenting with an unknown botanical, and the modern plant pharmacologist searching for the active component, but in his heart knowing that the whole is greater than the sum of its individual parts. Frank truly loves his chosen field and exudes a boyish enthusiasm whenever we talk of the power of plants. His knowledge is vast and his desire to share that knowledge is the reason for this labor of love. But more than anything, he wants all of us who read this book to truly respect nature’s pharmacy, to use plants wisely, and to demand quality and performance from our suppliers. As formulators and purveyors, all we have at the end of the day is the integrity of that which we produce and sell. Let it reflect brightly upon us. Joseph Gubernick Estee Lauder vi © 1999 by CRC Press LLC AUTHOR Herbalist and analytical chemist, Frank D’Amelio, Sr. has 31 years of experience in the botanical industry. He is an associate referee on botanical drugs for the Association of Analytical Chemists and a member of the Institute of Food Technologists. He founded Bio- Botanica, Inc., in 1973 and is the author of many articles and books on botanicals. vii © 1999 by CRC Press LLC ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I am most grateful to all my friends and acquaintances who assisted in the accomplishment of this book. Special thanks to Joseph Gubernick for taking the time out of his busy schedule to review the manuscript and many thanks for his most useful suggestions; to my secretary Geraldine Saiya for her diligent typing and many late hours; to Gene Berube and Sunyl Ratnayake for proofreading the manuscript; to Gennaro Nunziata for his wealth of knowledge of the botanical business and for the donation of his personal library of over 250 rare books on botanicals; to Bio-Botanica for allowing me to utilize and photograph their facility; and to Lipo Chemicals for contributing their standard formulations with botanicals. I would also like to thank Mary Lou Quinn and Ruth Quimby from the University of Chicago/Napalert for always reacting to my spontaneous needs; and Subhash Kekatpuray for editing Indian botanicals. Special thanks to Professor Dr. Youseff Mirhom for proofreading the manuscript and for his many helpful suggestions; to Violet Liquori for designing the book cover and helping with the illustrations; to Susan Fox of CRC Press for her precious time, patience, and assistance in editing the manuscript; to Barbara Norwitz of CRC Press for her enduring patience; and to all my friends and associates for their help whose names would be almost impossible to list. viii © 1999 by CRC Press LLC CONTENTS Chapter 1 Phytochemistry 1.1 Constituents of Drugs.....................................................................................................1 1.1.1 Liquids................................................................................................................1 1.1.2 Phenols ...............................................................................................................1 1.1.3 Tannins................................................................................................................1 1.1.4 Proteins ...............................................................................................................1 1.1.5 Alkaloids.............................................................................................................2 1.1.6 Carbohydrates.....................................................................................................2