OF NATURALAND By James E. Shigley, Emmanuel Fritsch, Ilene Reinitz, and Thomas M. Moses A chart is provided that describes those ow that small numbers of gem-quality synthetic dia- gemological properties thai are key to the monds have begun to appear in the jewelry industry, it separation of gem-quality yellow, blue, and has become critical that the professional jeweler/gen~ologist near-colorless (to colorless) natural dia- have the skills not only to quality grade a diamond, but also monds from synthetic diamonds. This for- to identify that it is a natural, untreated stone. This article mat was designed to give jewelers and accompanies a chart that describes the distinctive geinologi- gemologists a ready reference to identify synthetic diamonds as they enter the jewel- cal properties of natural as compared to synthetic gem dia- ry trade. Magnification and luminescence monds (figure l).In particular, the chart was designed to bring are the most important testing techniques together in summary form those characteristics of gein-quali- currently available to jewelers and gemolo- ty synthetic diamonds that will enable jewelers and gemolo- gists. The most distinctive features of syn- gists to readily distinguish them from natural diamonds. This thetic diamonds include color zoning, article describes the information contained in the chart, how graining, metallic inclusions (often n~aking it is organized, how it can be used m a standard gem identifi- the stone magnetic), and uneven ultraviolet cation procedure, and how the diagnostic gemological fea- fluorescence. tures can be resolved or recognized using standard gem-test- ing equipment. Some additional data, obtained through advanced techniques such as energy-dispersive X-ray fluores- cence chemical analysis, infrared spectroscopy, and cathodo- luminescence, are also cited because they provide useful information that the well-equipped gem-testing laboratory can use to support a conclusion. With this chart, jewelers and gemologists alilze have the means to identify the variety of gem-quality synthetic diamonds available at this time (see Box A). BACKGROUND Over the past several years, various gemological researchers have published information on gem-quality synthetic dia- monds and their practical gemological identification. Important articles include those by Crowningshield (1971), ems & Gpotogy, Vol. 3 1, No. 4, tSS5, Koivula and Fryer (19841, Shigley et al. (1986, 1987, 1993a, '). ,256-264 1995), Ponahlo (1992))Rooney et al. (19931, Moses et al. (1993a), Scarratt et al. (1994),Kanda and Lawson (1995).and Sunagawa 256 Diamond Chart GEMS & GEMOLOGY Winter 1995 Figure 1. Shown here are some of the synthetic diamonds examined by GIA researchers to date (clockwise from top photo): (1) three faceted (0.39 ct yellow, 0.31 ct grayish blue, and 0.30 ct near-colorless) synthetic diamonds and one crystal (0.73 ct near-colorless) grown experimentally by General Electric; (2)three Sumitorno yellow crys- tals (top, 0.63-1.07 ct) and four yellow synthetic faceted stones (0.16-0.24 ct); (3) a 0.14 ct synthetic diamond with a dark red color caused by treatment; (4)De Beers experimental yellow synthetic diamonds-0.30 ct (left), 0.27 ct (right), and a 1.03 ct crystal (top); (5)a 0.42 ct near-colorless crystal produced in Russia; (6) two yellow Russian us-grown crystals (left, 0.78 ct; right, 0.88 ct), plus three as-grown (0.18-0.51 ct) and two treated (0.14-0.21 ct) faceted synthetic diamonds. Photos are by, ogain clockwise from top, Tino Hammid (first two), Shane F. McClure, Tino Hammid, Shane F. McClure, and Robert Weldon. Diamond Chart GEMS & GEMOLOGY Winter 1995 25 7 Box A: A PRACTICALGUIDE FOR SEPARATING NATURALFROM SYNTHETICDIAMONDS Synthetic diamonds have a number of gemological to confirm a preliminary identification made on the properties by which they can be identified reliably. basis of internal features, you would look next at the However, this requires that jewelers look at diamonds reaction to long- and short-wave ultraviolet (UV)radia- more carefully, and document more properties than tion. In most instances, there will be some distinguish- they traditionally have documented. The following is a ing fluorescence features present. In the past, the fluo- step-by-step procedure, to be used in conjunction with rescence reactions of diamonds were not perceived as the information and illustrations on the chart, by which key identifying features by the jeweler or gemologist, synthetic diamonds can be identified by any trained who was solely concerned with grading concepts such gemologist using standard gemological equipment. as the strength and color of the reaction to long-wave UV radiation. For grading purposes, the diamond is MAGNIFICATION placed table down under a long-wave UV light source in The first step in grading, appraising, or purchasing a dia- partial darkness. For identification purposes, it is prefer- mond is to examine the stone with n~agnification,prefer- able to view the stone from all directions, under both ably with a gemologi~almicroscope. This procedure, in wavelengths of UV light, in total darkness. In the latter which the observer determines such important informa- case, the pattern (or zoning) of the fluorescence is often tion as the clarity and other grading parameters, is also more important than the fluorescence color. critical to detenliirung whether the diamond is natural A natural diamond typically fluoresces blue to or synthetic. long-wave UV (LWUV) radiation, with a weaker and Careful observation of the inclusions present often usually yellow reaction to short-wave UV (SWUV).This reveals the identification of the diamond conclusively. fluorescence is usually evenly distributed, but it may be For example, an included crystal of a transparent guest planar. Conversely, synthetic diamonds typically fluo- mineral such as garnet, enstatite, or diopside-or of resce yellow to yellowish green to both LWW and another diamond-identifies the diamond as natural. SWUV, with the reaction often noticeably stronger to Conversely, if you see a dark, opaque inclusion, you short-wave than long-wave. In addition, the internal would want to look at it very carefully using such light- growth sectors of a synthetic diamond generally pro- ing methods as fiber-optic illumination to determine if duce a cross-shaped, octagonal (or similar geometric) its luster is reflective and metallic (figure A-1). If so, it pattern of fluorescence to either or both wavelengths. might be a piece of metallic flux, in which case testing I11 some cases, fluorescence may be stronger to for magnetism (see below) would be sufficient to prove LWUV than to SWUV, or the reaction to both wave- that it is a synthetic. lengths may be similar in strength, unlike the notice- In situations where the diamond is of higher clarity able difference in intensity usually present in natural and no diagnostic inclusions are present, close examina- diamonds. Low magnification can be useful to observe tion of growth features may aid in identification. any zoning of the fluorescence reaction. (AnOptivisor is "Hourglass" graining, which is usually visible through well-suited for this purpose; if a microscope is adapted the pavilion, is related to the octahedral and cubic inter- for this use, precautions should be taken to shield the nal growth sectors of synthetic diamonds. Consequently, operator's eyes from the short-wave UV radiation.) the presence of hourglass graining is proof that the dia- Ultraviolet fluorescence is a test con~monlyused by mond is synthetic. Any graining (colorless, colored, jewelers and gen~ologists,and simple observations such whitish, green, or even surface graining) following the as these may identify the diamond conclusively. In addi- octahedral planes throughout the stone would indicate tion, an entire parcel of stones can be tested at one time. that the diamond is natural. Likewise, phantom graining along the octahedral directions would also serve to iden- SPECTROSCOPY tify a diamond as natural. To date, most of the gem-quality synthetic diamonds In a colored diamond, any color zoning observed can encountered in the trade have been yellow to brownish be useful for making the identification; examination with yellow in body color; they have been identified as syn- diffused transmitted light is very helpful in this regard. thetic during the testing procedure used to determine Natural diamonds may show planar bands of color or a their "origin of color." Observation of the spectniin- roiled effect, but only synthetic diamonds would show with a prism or diffraction-grating [hand-held or desk- patterns related to the internal growth sectors. model) spectroscope-is a routine test for colored dia- monds. The spectra of most natural diamonds, whether ULTRAVIOLET FLUORESCENCE of natural or treated color, differ from those seen in syn- If no diagnostic features are seen with magnification, or thetic diamonds. The most common spectral features 258 Diamond Chart GEMS & GEMOLOGY Winter 1995 seen in natural diamonds are the "Cape" lines at 415 nnl and at 452, 465, and 478 nm. On the basis of the samples we have examined to date, we believe that the presence of a 415 nm line in a colorless to light yellow diamond can be considered proof that the stone is natural. Treated-color natural diamonds may show addi- tional absorptions at 496, 503, 595, or 637 nm. Such spectral features suggest that the diamond is natural (even if the color is treated). Absence of the 415 nm he would not prove that the diamond is synthetic, but it would make it necessary to test the stone further. Some synthetic diamonds show a number of absorption lines between 470 and 700 run (see chart], which are due to the nickel used in the flux. Observation of several of these lines would indicate a synthetic. However, most colored synthetic diamonds are predominantly type Ib, so no sharp absorption fea- tures are expected in the visible spectrum.