Cinderella River © Simon Read 2017 Editor: Penny Rogers (SfEP) Publication commissioned by through the Arts & Humanities Research Council Connected Communities programme All images by Simon Read unless otherwise credited Printed by CDS (Corporate Document Services) Design and layout by U2R Design October 2017 All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication may be made without written permission. No paragraph of this publication may be reproduced, copied or transmitted save with written permission or in accordance with the provisions of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 (as amended) Any person who does any unauthorised act in relation to this publication may be liable to criminal prosecution and civil claims for damages. 1 2 Simon Read Simon Read is a visual artist and Associate Professor of Fine Art at Middlesex University London. As someone who has an intimate understanding of coastal dynamics, he has used his position as a senior academic to foster discussion on an interdisciplinary and international basis over the vital importance of understanding the cultural implications of environmental change. Aside from the study that generated this publication, he is actively engaged at a community level in Suffolk with estuary management schemes. Ongoing and recent research projects include CoastWEB, funded by the Natural Environment Research Council and led by Plymouth Marine Laboratory, to use locations on the Welsh coast in a study of the community benefits of a healthy intertidal saltmarsh environment. His studio work has been exhibited widely both in the UK and abroad and is held in several major national and international collections. He has carried out several public commissions, including “A Profile of the River Thames, from Thames Head to Sea Reach” for the Thames Flood Barrier (1996) and “Memory and the Tideline” for the flood defence works on Poole Town Quay (2001). Simon Read owes his interest in coastal dynamics to a lifelong enthusiasm for all things marine and to a life afloat and aground on the Suffolk coast. 3 4 Contents Hydrocitizenship 7 The River Lea or Lee 8 Cinderella River 9 Tidal reaches of the Lower Lee 13 Walking the Line 23 Olympic Park 31 Tottenham Hale to Walthamstow Marshes 37 Walthamstow Wetlands and Woodberry Down 41 Broxbourne to Tottenham 55 Ware to Broxbourne 61 Ware to Welwyn Garden City 71 Hatfield to Hertford 77 Harpenden to Hatfield 83 Hatfield Park 87 Leagrave to Harpenden 95 The alternative source of the River Lea, Houghton Regis 107 River Lee Country Park and Sculpture Trail 115 The New River, Old New River and Turkey Brook 121 A summary of findings 127 In conclusion 152 Appendix 157 Notes 161 Bibliography 163 Websites 165 5 6 Hydrocitizenship The research for this study took place under the auspices of the three year Hydrocitizenship project, started in 2014, completed in October 2017 and funded as part of the Arts & Humanities Research Council Connected Communities programme. Conceived as a partnership of eight academic institutions (University of the West of England, Bath Spa University, University of Bristol, Newcastle University, University of Manchester, Bangor University, Brighton University, Middlesex University London) spread over four case-study areas and stakeholder communities in Borth, Bristol, the Lee Valley and Shipley, this project seeks to explore and reflect upon changing perceptions of water as amenity, asset and threat. Coming at a time when there is growing pressure upon water infrastructure due to the rapid expansion of urban settlements and the uncertainties of climate change, there is a profound lack of public awareness of the delicate balance essential to ensure that what is taken for granted does not become corrupted, commodified, depleted or, indeed, flood our homes. Hydrocitizenship represents more than the condition of living with or on water – it reflects an imperative to challenge societal assumptions over what has been divested of its mystery and has become taken for granted as a utility; this has not always been so and will no doubt change again. According to location living with water can be as various as living with unpredictability, negotiating conflicting demands at times of scant supply or fostering a responsible stewardship approach to vulnerable wetland. In combination, the case-study sites embody a range of water environments from the exposed coastal frontage of Borth to the equally vulnerable set- tlement of Shipley, Yorkshire, that lives in a state of continuous adaptation beside the flash-flood-prone River Aire. In Bristol the tidal River Avon has been tidied away into the New Cut, and become peripheral to the expand- ing city, yet it remains a residual presence and, due to its immense tidal range, a constant threat. Finally the River Lee, the subject of this publi- cation, is a complex and pervasive presence adopting in turn the guise of drinking water supply, natural habitat, drain, navigation, flood control and recreational facility on its labyrinthine journey through continuous wetland from Luton, Bedfordshire to metropolitan London and the tidal Thames. 7 Leagrave Luton Houghton Regis Luton Hoo River Lea River Beane Rivers Rib & Quinn Harpenden River Mimram River Ash Ware River Stort Wheathampstead Welwyn N ew Garden R i Hertford v City e r Rye House Hatfield Hoddesdon Broxbourne The River Lea or Lee Cheshunt Turkey Brook River Lee and its catchment Country Park Myddleton House Chapter references Enfield River Lee Tottenham Walthamstow Wetlands Walthamstow Marshes Woodberry Down Olympic Park Three Mills Trinity Buoy Wharf River Thames 8 Greenwich Cinderella River Any river is a compound of its own narratives, and none more so than the River Lee. Unlike the River Thames for which it is one of the major tributaries, the Lee or Lea has consistently eluded stereotype due to the multiplicity of its channel systems and the huge range of functions it has been required to perform between its source and where it debouches at the Thames Estuary. When is the Lea not the Lea? Historically spelled as Lea, it remains so from its source to where it is subsumed as the River Lee Navigation at Hertford, beyond which it reverts to its original spelling only where the course of the old river has been retained as an overflow or flood relief channel. Although the long distance path that follows the river from its source through London to the Thames is known as the Lea Valley Walk, the Lee Valley Park Authority, after its inauguration in 1967, gave preference to the spelling more familiar in the lower reaches and in London. But, consistently inconsistent to the end, the site of its confluence with the Thames is Leamouth. This is a particularly utilitarian watercourse, which as a consequence does not possess sufficient genius loci to divert it from whatever purpose it might be called upon to serve and whichever zone it passes through: for example, it enjoys a little flourish as the picturesque lakes set in the Capability Brown designed parkland of Luton Hoo, after which, with immediate insouciance, it slips downstream and into a waste-water treatment plant on an industrial scale. Along the entire length of the Lee Valley the river weaves itself into a complex labyrinth of flood-mitigation measures, navigable waterways, freshwater supply, habitat and drain. My approach to the Hydrocitizenship Lee Valley case study has been to identify what is unique about the River Lee – the common characteristics and the recurrent themes as I follow its curiously fractured journey to London’s River Thames. What have I discovered? For a great many urban dwellers the Lee Valley is a vital but informal open space. Although historically it has been a Cinderella of a river, both created by and enabling the working industrial landscapes of East London and beyond, now it is undergoing comprehensive transforma- tion into a wetland landscape of such a high level of biodiversity that it has become a model for other major metropolitan environments in the UK and Western Europe. Perhaps this is because it has always been such a busy, marshy and inhospitable place that, since 1965, its post-industrial landscape has by increments been reborn as a luminous green thread that now runs through densely built Stratford, Hackney, Tottenham, Walthamstow and Edmonton 9 10 out into the open waterlands of the Lee Valley Regional Park. It is bounded to the west by the mainline railway from Liverpool Street Station, further north by the mainline from King’s Cross, and to the east by the Chiltern Hills; and it is fringed by the substantial ribbon developments of Enfield, Waltham Forest, Cheshunt, Broxbourne, Ware and Hertford that just dip their toes in the water. The subsequent explosion of dormitory settlements for London has subsumed the distinctive memories of all of these unglamorous places, finishing where it starts at perhaps the most unglamorous of all, Luton, where, according to the pamphlet published by the Civic Trust in 1964, the river rises unceremoniously in Luton Sewage Works at Leagrave some 90 kilometres north of Leamouth on the Thames. Although the veracity of this claim might be doubtful, it chimes well with the place it holds in the public imagination as the most prosaic and workaday of rivers. By visiting, talking and walking, I have sought to gain insight into this most complex water environment. I have followed its continual metamorphosis from the growth of industrial East London and the spread of the metropolis over its satellite settlements as continuous conurbation, to the incremental giving back of the wetland environment to nature and for societal well-being in the late twentieth and early twenty-first century. It includes the stimulus given to the Lee Valley as a unique environment by the creation of the Lee Valley Regional Park in 1966, the construction of the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park for 2012 and the Walthamstow Wetlands initiative, now fully open to the public.