AN EASTER VAC ATIO N G R EEC E WITH LISTS OF BOOKS ON GREEK TRAVEL AN D TOPOGRAPH Y AN D TIM E - TABLES OF GREEK STEAM ERS AN D RAI LWAYS ' BY W AN O H N ED IN S DY S LITT. D . J , ' H LLE E FE LLOW A N D T UTO R OF ST . jo N S CO G , A N D P UBLIC O RATO R I N T HE UN IVERSI TY OF CAM BRIDG E R E ND P O LYM P WITH A M AP O F G E C E, A A LAN O F IA ’ uacum ue in redim ur in ali ua Iz z storia vesti ium an imas Q q g , q g y ' ' ' C IC ERO ae Fz rz z bus v 2 , , 5 5 1, 0 a M A C M I L L A N A N D C O . A N D N E W Y O R K 1 8 8 7 A ll rights reserved vi PRE FA CE and dr th e e e as e e d iving, in mor ily acc ssibl istricts, without re so rting to the inte r ve ntion of a e de dragoman with his cavalcad of beasts of bur n , carrying a comple te canteen with beds and b ed — ding and provisions fo r the way a me thod of e e e w th e e e e e trav lling, how v r, hich , in g n ral abs nc d and th e one e fo r of roa s inns , is still only availabl ee e We e s ing many portions of th e int rior. sp nt ee e r e A e a w k v y pl asantly at th ns, making e m E e e e e xcursions to Sala is , l usis, Phyl , P nt licus, L m and Sunium and we f e w d ed auriu , a t r ar s visit T and M e ae N e e and C e iryns yc n , m a orinth, D lphi and m e and . Oly pia, Zant Corfu No one can b e more conscious than myself e ee th e e how much was l ft uns n , owing to shortn ss of the time at our disposal ; and an e xte nded study of the lite rature of Greek trave l only in e e e one creases this consciousn ss , whil it inspir s with feelings almost of e nvy towards those who have been fortunate enough to have tim e for a more . In A endix 1 I extensive tour pp , have drawn up an approximately complete list of all th e books on Greek travel that have appe ared down to th e and present time ; , in the case of some of th e s s e I mo t important or mo t inter sting, have given PRE FA CE ’ e e M e an outline of the trav ll r s route. y obj ct in so doing has been to dire ct th e attention of future trave lle rs to some of the best sources of informa and tion as to the various routes, to facilitate e e ffi re f re nc to such sources . It is extremely di cult to make much use of such a mine of inform ation ’ e ournal as W lcker s j , without the help of a clue to its contents like that which I have tri ed to I e provide . have also att mpted to supply a classified conspectus of the literature of Gree k T and m e e are opography, of so oth r subjects that d e ee worth stu ying in conn xion with Gr k trave l . In this part of my work I have h ad the advantage of using the carefully se l e cted library of th e C d M e m C A ae ambri ge us u of lassical rch ology , which includes that of th e greatest of Gree k e Le e . topographers, Colon l ak Th e map of mode rn Gre ece pre fixed to this volum e is intended si m ply to show the principal d and sea e and lan rout s, the lines of railway . Some information as to the best maps is give n in A n H e e ppe dzlr 1. ow v r backward the country m ay d e d d d unavoi ably remain as r gar s or inary roa s, the re are other m e ans of communication that have bee n considerably deve loped and improved during viii PRE FA CE e e e . T e r c nt y ars hus, th re are railways now A e e ae L running from th ns to the P ir us, to aurium , Ke hisia and C and to p ; also to orinth, past M cenaz and T N and th e e y iryns , to auplia sit of L . A e the ancient erna In ugust last, plans w re submitted to the Gove rnm e nt for a railway from N T z th e e auplia, by way of ripolit a in h art of A d a e M e e . rca ia, to Kalam ta n ar the coast of ss nia Th e approach to Olympi a is now m ade easie r by a short lin e from th e port of Katakolo to th e d d th e small inlan town of Pyrgos, about a thir of d f. T e istance to Olympia itsel In h ssaly, again , e e th e L th r is a line from Gulf of Volo to arissa, and also across some of th e tributari es of the e e . A nd th e e P n ios lastly, along north rn shore of th e e d P loponnesus, the railway is rapidly a vancing e d ed th e from Corinth to Patras, having alr a y pass site of Sikyon and reached a village near the P ll n remains of e e e . If its comple tion were un fortunately to supersede the ste amers that now take th e traveller through the splendid sce nery of ed the Gulf of Corinth , it may be hop that that magnificent approach to Athens will be restored again by the early opening of the canal across th e Isthmus . P REFA CE ix The mercantile e nterprise of the Greeks has deve lope d a considerabl e coasting trade by m eans of ste amers stopping at all manner of places round the Pe loponnesus and e lsewhere and the traveller can o ft e n advantageously re sort to these means of a The r a i communic tion . fi st class c b ns of the He e ll nic Company, which has the largest steamers e e are e and of the three Gre k compani s, cl an com fortab le and ff d e e d , a or b tt r accommo ation than can be obtained at any e xcept the best hotels in A e a d t e e th ns n Corfu . But h routes of th se ’ d e d d e steamers , though uly r cognise in Bae ek r s ' Gfledzm lmzd are e e n E , imp rf ctly k own to nglish l - ed e e . T e trav l ers in Greec hus , ev n so well inform ' e e s M ahafl the e e a trav ll r as Profe sor y, in r c ntly published third edition of his interesting Rambles “ (Ifld S tudies in Greece h , is content to state t at a ” co asting steamer calls at Kalamata every fortnight A d (p. whereas the ustrian Lloy steamers stop t e e e h r twice a fortnight, those of the Panh llenic and Gudé e and e compani s four times each , thos th e Old H e e e of ll nic ight times, making in all A eighteen times a fortnight . ccurate information e d ffi on th se points is i cult to obtain , owing to the a e f ct that , ven in Greece itself, there is no publica x P RE FA CE tion containing in a collected form the time - table s th e e m The of all Gre k ste a e rs and railways . tables of some of the railways in Attica are printed d A e on a small car that can be got in thens som , the are e but not all , of railways giv n in the Con tine ntal B d L e T ra shaw. ittl be side th e hessalian ’ de d He n sch e l s Tele m /z Th e line is inclu in d g p . trains be twee n Athe ns and Nauplia are from time to ti m e advertised in th e Gree k n ewspape rs ; and only those be twee n Athe ns and Corinth are m en ’ tioned o T e - s T in Cook s C ntinental nn table . his a e e de e e ed l st publication , how v r, s rv s cr it for giving two or three pages of in formation ab out two of th e ee ee e e m e thr Gr k st am r co pani s .