ECUADOR: EASTERN SLOPE OF THE ANDES JANUARY 15–25, 2019 SAN ISIDRO MYSTERY OWL © MELISSA HAFTING LEADER: PAUL J. GREENFIELD LIST COMPILED BY: PAUL J. GREENFIELD VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM ECUADOR: EASTERN SLOPE OF THE ANDES JANUARY 15–25, 2019 By Paul Greenfield ANTISANA VOLCANO © PAUL J. GREENFIELD Although all regions of the world hold their own relatively finite biodiversity, our east slope ‘adventure’ certainly did not appear to fit that mold; it kind of felt like the possibilities could be limitless! Only time and the serendipitous nature of birding, especially in the Neotropics, ultimately defined our limitations. We experienced a lot along the way while we were faced, at the same time, with a somewhat expected and even unexpected degree of challenges. The surprising unseasonally rainy and, at times, cold and windy conditions that we were met with certainly imposed their impact… we even got kind of rained out one morning. But as is characteristic of tiny Ecuador, as we moved only short distances from site-to-site, conditions changed, often dramatically, and with them bird diversity changed as well, while new opportunities presented themselves at every turn—constantly keeping us on our toes. We explored suburban gardens, rural agricultural areas, páramo woodland and grassland, barren high- elevation slopes, elfin forest, temperate and subtropical rain and cloud forest, and rich Amazonian foothill forest and edge along roadsides and densely vegetated trails. We sat among dozens of frenetic hummingbirds and peered out to revel in an impressive Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Ecuador: Eastern Slope of the Andes, 2019 show as secretive understory denizens exposed themselves unabashedly as they came in close to pick-off moths that had been attracted to a strong light that illuminated the forest during the night. We sat patiently at feeder stations where generally rarely seen species could be enjoyed so effortlessly. We initiated our birding at a rather unsuspecting ‘cul-de-sac’ in the interAndean valley just east of the city of Quito where we encountered Southern Beardless-Tyrannulets, Vermilion Flycatchers, Tropical Kingbird, Blue-gray and Scrub tanagers, and Golden Grosbeak along with several additional species. We then took a country side road in a more agricultural area a bit farther to the east where we found a surprisingly friendly Azara’s Spinetail, a pair of Tufted Tit-Tyrants, a Tennessee Warbler, Cinereous Conebills, a cooperative pair of Blue-and-yellow Tanagers, Rusty and Black flowerpiercers, and a male Band-tailed Seedeater among other goodies. Continuing onward, we traveled the ‘old’ Papallacta Road where we came upon a pair of Carunculated Caracaras foraging in a plowed field, and had close looks at an Andean Tit-Spinetail, a Many-striped Canastero, and a Viridian Metaltail. We then made a brief stop at Papallacta Lake where we observed a pair of Neotropic Cormorants, Andean and Blue-winged teals, Yellow-billed Pintail, and a Spotted Sandpiper. By midday, we had reached Guango Lodge where we enjoyed a field lunch amidst a swirl of hummingbirds: Sparkling Violetears, Tourmaline Sunangels, Speckled Hummingbirds, our first Long-tailed Sylphs, Collared Incas, a wonderful male Sword- billed Hummingbird, Buff-tailed and Chestnut-breasted coronets, and a pair of White- bellied Woodstars. We took some time to walk the grounds a bit, exploring forest edge and a trail down to and along the torrent Río Papallacta; species we ‘picked-up’ included Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Olive-backed Woodcreeper, Pearled Treerunner, White-banded and Torrent tyrannulets, Rufous-breasted Flycatcher, Smoke-colored Pewee, Black Phoebe, Turquoise Jay, White-capped Dipper, Blackburnian and Black-crested warblers, Spectacled Whitestarts (Redstarts), Black- capped Hemispingus, Hooded and Blue-winged mountain-tanagers, Blue-and-black Tanager, Masked Flowerpiercer, Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager, and Slaty, Yellow- breasted, and Pale-naped brushfinches, along with (Northern) Mountain-Caciques. By mid-afternoon we had departed from this impressive site, stopping briefly just a couple of seconds farther downslope to catch another mixed-species foraging flock, adding at least a White-tailed Tyrannulet for our day’s tally; a Broad-winged Hawk and White- throated Quail-Dove were also spotted en route as we headed to our destination— Cabañas San Isidro—arriving in time to settle in and do just a little birding before our first official checklist session and dinner. As could be expected, after all this is Ecuador, Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Ecuador: Eastern Slope of the Andes, 2019 Sword-billed Hummingbird © Melissa Hafting the “hummers-were-a’hummin,” and we were quickly engulfed by several of the same species we had found at Guango, with the addition of Fawn-breasted Brilliant; our first Inca (Green) Jays showed up, as did a Glossy-black Thrush, and our first Black-eared Hemispingus that over the next few days would become a surprisingly common sight, even right from the deck! The following two days were spent exploring San Isidro and its surroundings. Our first early morning was spent right around the lodge where we enjoyed exceptionally close looks at Montane Woodcreeper, Cinnamon Flycatcher, a lovely pair of Flavescent Flycatchers, Pale-edged and Golden-crowned flycatchers, Black-billed Peppershrike, Brown-capped Vireo, Inca Jays galore, Canada Warblers, Slate-throated Whitestart, Summer Tanager, Rose-breasted Grosbeak, Russet-backed Oropendola, and Subtropical (Scarlet-rumped) Caciques. We then explored the Las Caucheras Road (that runs past Cabañas San Isidro) where we encountered, among many species, a pair of the special Torrent Ducks; Southern Lapwings; Golden-headed Quetzal; Masked Trogons; Southern Emerald (White-throated) Toucanet; Red-billed Parrots; Scaly-naped Amazons; Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher; Green-and-black Fruiteater; Plain-tailed and Mountain wrens; Beryl-spangled, Saffron-crowned, and Flame-faced tanagers; Capped Conebill; Bluish Flowerpiercer; and Common Chlorospingus (Bush-Tanager). Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Ecuador: Eastern Slope of the Andes, 2019 At the feeders we found Bronzy Inca and a female Gorgeted Woodstar. After dinner we closed out the day by finally locating the San Isidro Mystery Owl —a yet-to-be specifically identified owl (closely related to the Amazonian lowland Black-banded Owl) due to its tiny and apparently totally isolated range. The following morning brought us to a nearby area at a somewhat lower elevation along the Vinillos Road where we located Sickle-winged Guans, a beautiful male Crested Quetzal, Smoky-brown Woodpecker, Speckle-faced/White-capped Parrots, more Scaly-naped Amazons, a Rusty-winged Barbtail, more excellent looks at Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher, Handsome Flycatcher, the local Dusky Piha, and our first eastern race Blue-gray Tanagers among the many species we came across. On our return to our lodge, we stopped at the village of Cosanga where we watched another family of Torrent Ducks. Among the species we noted in the afternoon, on our return along the Las Caucheras Road, were Sulphur- bellied Tyrannulet and Black-capped Tanager. Our final morning at San Isidro brought rain—that unseasonal rain mentioned earlier— and after a rather uneventful half-day, except for repeated great views of a few ‘old friends’ including even better looks at Black-billed Peppershrike, a rather shy White- bellied Antpitta for those who had the patience to wait-it-out, and some mixed-species flock activity—we headed for our second destination, located in the Amazonian foothills. A few pointed stops en route resulted in sightings of Swallow-tailed Kite, Squirrel Cuckoo, Cliff Flycatcher, and a couple of noisy Violaceous Jays; at the Río Hollín, we checked out some nectar feeders to the tune-of White-tailed Hillstar, Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Many-spotted Hummingbird, and Golden-tailed Sapphire, while Red- headed Barbet and Yellow-browed Sparrow also showed up. Farther along, as we turned onto the entrance road to our Wildsumaco Lodge, we spotted a few species of interest including Yellow-tufted Woodpecker, a small band of Maroon-tailed Parakeets, Western Wood-Pewee, Silver-beaked Tanager, and a pair of Yellow-rumped Caciques. Upon arrival at Wildsumaco, we settled in and headed outright for the ample deck, with its panoramic views and nectar feeders buzzing with Wire-crested Thorntails, Peruvian (Booted) Racket-tails, Rufous-vented Whitetip, and Black-throated and Violet-fronted brilliants, along with a couple of Violet-headed Hummingbirds that concentrated on nearby flowering Verbena shrubs. Wildsumaco Lodge offered up several memorable highlights—their two nectar feeding stations, of course; the incredible bright light and white sheet they set up right by the rooms; and their forest worm feeding station…all set the stage (or stages) for really seeing some normally scarcely encountered species with the most unbelievable point- blank views one could ever hope for. What a thrill to be able to enjoy amazing close-ups of Coppery-chested Jacamar; White-chested Puffbirds; Lined Antshrike; Plain Antvireos; Yellow-breasted Antwren; Peruvian Warbling-Antbirds; White-backed Fire-eyes; Black- faced Antbirds; Chestnut-crowned Gnateaters; Montane, Buff-fronted, and Lineated Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Ecuador: Eastern Slope of the Andes, 2019 foliage-gleaners; Black-billed Treehunter; White-breasted Wood-Wrens (even singing!); and Musician Wren (even singing!); we also saw a Ruddy Quail-Dove and a female Blackish Antbird along with Short-crested and Golden-crowned flycatchers. At the forest worm feeding station, we watched a pair of Ochre-breasted antpittas, Spotted Nightingale-Thrush, and Gray-cheeked Thrush; Plain-backed Antpitta, White-crowned Tapaculo, and Short-tailed Antthrush were seen by part of our group who made a second visit the following afternoon. The nectar feeders brought on some new additions to our growing hummingbird list, including a subadult male White-necked Jacobin, Green Hermit, a female Black-throated Mango, Brown Violetear, stunning Gould’s Jewelfronts, and Napo Sabrewing.