AN ABSTRACT OF THE THESIS OF Kelly S. Gallett for the degree of Master of Arts in Apparel, Interiors, Housina, and Merchandising presented on June 6. 1995. Title: Development and Testina of a Data Collection Instrument for Boys' Clothina 1867-1910: An Oregon Photographic Study. Redacted for Privacy Abstract approved: E. Pedersen The purpose of this study was to develop and test a data collection instrument that would facilitate description of the clothing of Oregon school boys 1867-1910. In addition, the researcher attempted to describe Oregon school-aged boys' clothing and determine if fashion changes occurred in Oregon boys' clothing. The researcher also determined if there were differences in the clothing of boys from rural and urban areas. The data collection instrument was developed by examining literature on children's clothing, photographs, and magazine and catalogue illustrations. In an attempt to capture dress characteristic of everyday wear, the data source for the study consisted of documented class portrait photographs from the collections of the Oregon and Benton County Historical Associations. The instrument provided for a systematic method of data collection according to the principles of content analysis. The instrument consisted of garment categories and design detail options. A handbook of illustrations and terms accompanied the instrument to ensure consistency and reliability. A total of 503 records were collected over a period of four months. After data collection, the original instrument was revised for future use. Some detail options were added and some deleted. A footwear category was incorporated into the revised instrument after it was determined that it would be possible to gather information about footwear from group photographs. Information gathered on boys' clothing from the school photographs both agreed and deviated from the literature. The basic garments were similar; however, the fancier styles in the literature were not found in the quantities that the researcher anticipated and the literature indicated. Some garments, design details, and silhouettes changed over time. The presence of the actual garments did not vary, but some details such as lapel width, single or double breasted, and jacket style did, as well as how the garments were worn (i.e., buttoned, unbuttoned). Rural and urban differences occurred and were most pronounced in the quantity of garments worn (more urban boys wore suit jackets, waistcoats, ties, and hats than did rural boys) and how the garments were worn. The entire neck tie category was very different between rural and urban records. Development and Testing of a Data Collection Instrument for Boys' Clothing 1867-1910: An Oregon Photographic Study by Kelly S. Gallett A THESIS submitted to Oregon State University In partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts Completed June 6, 1995 Commencement June, 1996 Master of Arts thesis of Kelly S. Gallett presented on June 6, 1995 APPROVED: Redacted for Privacy Major Professor, representing Apparel, Interiors, Housing and Merchandising Redacted for Privacy Depar(-24TALK-CA-AJ. ment of Apparel, Interiors, Housing and Merchandising Redacted for Privacy D n of Graduate chool I understand that my thesis will become part of the permanent collection of Oregon State University libraries. My signature below authorizes release of my thesis to any reader upon request. Redacted for Privacy Kelly S. Gallett, Author TABLE OF CONTENTS Page I. Introduction 1 Purpose of Study 3 Assumptions 4 Limitations 4 Definition of Terms 5 II. Review of Related Literature 8 Content Analysis 8 Photographs and Historic Costume Research 10 Advantages 11 Disadvantages 12 Boys' Clothing 1867-1910 16 Suits and Jackets 18 Knickers/Trousers/Overalls 21 Waistcoats, Ties, and Shirts 23 Hats 24 Western Settlement: an Overview 24 Pioneer, Western and Regional Dress 25 Clothing in Oregon and the Northwest 28 Summary 30 III. Methods 32 Instrument Development 33 Suit Jacket 37 TABLE OF CONTENTS (Continued) Page Knickers/Trousers/Overalls 37 Waistcoat 38 Neck Tie 38 Shirt 38 Hat 39 Overcoat 39 Reliability 39 Validity 39 Preliminary Preparation 40 Sample 40 Pilot Study 43 Data Collection Procedure 43 Data Analysis 44 IV. Results 46 Objective 1 and Objective 2 46 Objective 3 49 Suit Jacket 49 Knickers/Trousers/Overalls 57 Waistcoat 60 Neck Tie 65 Shirt 67 Hats 70 Overcoat 73 Details/Accessories 73 TABLE OF CONTENTS (Continued) Paae The "Typical" Boy 74 Objective 4 and Research Question 1 76 Suit Jacket 76 Knickers/Trousers/Overalls 90 Waistcoat 95 Neck Tie 100 Shirt 100 Hat 105 Details/Accessories 107 Discussion: Objective 4 and Research Question 1 107 Research Question 2 109 Suit Jacket 110 Knickers/Trousers/Overalls 120 Stockings 124 Suspenders 124 Waistcoat 125 Neck Tie 127 Shirt 130 Hats 130 Details/Accessories 134 Discussion: Research Question 2 134 Summary 136 Objective 1 and Objective 2 136 Objective 3 137 Objective 4 and Research Question 1 138 TABLE OF CONTENTS (Continued) Paae Research Question 2 139 V. Summary and Conclusions 140 Limitations 142 Conclusions and Implications 146 Future Research 152 Bibliography 155 Appendices 160 Appendix A: Data Collection Instrument for Boys' Clothing 161 Appendix B: Handbook of Illustrations and Explanations 164 Appendix C: Photographs Analyzed for this study 183 Appendix C: Revised Data Collection Instrument for Boys' Clothing 184 LIST OF FIGURES Figure Page 1. Oregon Boys' Frequency of Wearing Suit Jacket, 1867-1910. 51 2. Boys' Jacket with Vertical Tucks and Rounded Front Edges. 56 3. Oregon Boys' Wearing of Knickers, Trousers, and Overalls, 1867-1910. 59 4. Oregon Boys' Frequency of Wearing Waistcoat, 1867-1910. 63 5. Oregon Boys' Frequency of Wearing Neck Ties, 1867-1910. 66 6. Number of Visible and Non-Visible Oregon Boys' Shirts, 1867-1910. 68 7. Oregon Boys' Frequency of Wearing Hats, 1867-1910. 72 8. Seriation of Four Most Popular Suit Jacket Collar and Lapel Styles, 1867-1910. 77 9. Seriation of Suit Jacket Lapel Widths, 1867-1910. 79 10. Seriation of Suit Jacket Silhouette, 1867-1910. 81 11. Seriation of Double and Single Breasted Suit Jackets, 1867-1910. 83 12. Seriation of Suit Jacket Fabric Pattern, 1867-1910. 86 13. Seriation of Suit Jacket Fabric Value, 1867-1910. 87 14. Seriation of Suit Jacket Wearing Position, 1867-1910. 88 15. Seriation of Knickers, Trousers, and Overalls, 1867-1910. 91 16. Seriation of Knickers/Trousers/Overalls Fullness, 1867-1910. 93 17. Seriation of Knickers/Trousers/Overalls Fabric Value, 1867-1910. 94 18. Seriation of Waistcoat Bridle Line Length, 1867-1910. 97 19. Seriation of Matching and Non-Matching Waistcoats, 1867-1910. 98 20. Seriation of Waistcoat Fabric Pattern, 1867-1910. 99 21. Seriation of Three Most Popular Neck Tie Styles, 1867-1910. 101 LIST OF FIGURES (Continued) Figure Page 22. Seriation of Four Most Common Shirt Collar Styles, 1867-1910. -102 23. Seriation of Shirt Collar Heights, 1867-1910. 104 24. Seriation of Shirt Fabric Values, 1867-1910. 106 LIST OF TABLES Table Pane 1. Grouping of Photographs by Year and View 42 2. Time Period Categories for Data Analysis 45 3. Total Suit Jacket Collar and Lapel Styles, 1867-1910 50 4. Suit Jacket Pocket Styles, 1867-1910 53 5. Total Suit Jacket Style Types, 1867-1910 55 6. Total Suit Jacket Details and Trim, 1867-1910 58 7. Total Knickers/Trousers/Overalls Features and Trims, 1867-1910 61 8. Total Waistcoat Features and Trims, 1867-1910 65 9. Total Shirt Collar Styles, 1867-1910 69 10. Total Shirt Features and Trims, 1867-1910 71 11. Total Additional Details and Accessories, 1867-1910 73 12. The "Typical" Oregon School Boy's Clothing, 1867-1910 75 13. Rural and Urban Differences in Suit Jacket Collar Styles, 1893 111 14. Rural and Urban Differences in Suit Jacket Bridle Lines, Lapel Widths, and Silhouettes, 1893 112 15. Rural and Urban Differences in the Number of Suit Jacket Buttons, 1893 113 16. Rural and Urban Differences in Single and Double Breasted Suit Jackets and Jacket Length, 1893 115 17. Rural and Urban Differences in Suit Jacket Breast and Side Pockets, 1893 116 18. Rural and Urban Differences in Suit Jacket Fabric Pattern and Value, 1893 117 19. Rural and Urban Differences in Suit Jacket Wearing Position, 1893 118 20. Rural and Urban Differences in Suit Jacket Features and Trims, 1893 119 21. Rural and Urban Differences in Suit Jacket Types, 1893 120 LIST OF TABLES (Continued) Table Paste 22. Rural and Urban Differences in the Wearing of Knickers, Trousers and Overalls, 1893 121 23. Rural and Urban Differences in Knickers/Trousers/Overalls Length, Fullness, and Matching of Suit Jacket and Waistcoat, 1893 122 24. Rural and Urban Differences in Knickers/Trousers/Overalls Fabric Pattern and Value, 1893 123 25. Rural and Urban Differences in Knickers/Trousers/Overalls Features, and Trims, 1893 125 26. Rural and Urban Differences in Waistcoat Use and Characteristics, 1893 126 27. Rural and Urban Differences in Waistcoat Fabric Pattern, Value and Matching of Suit Jacket, 1893 128 28. Rural and Urban Differences in Neck Tie Wearing, Style, Fabric Pattern and Value, 1893 129 29. Rural and Urban Differences in Shirt Collar Style and Height, 1893 131 30. Rural and Urban Differences in Shirt Fabric Pattern and Value, 1893 132 31. Rural and Urban Differences in Shirt Features and Trim, 1893 133 32. Rural and Urban Differences in Additional Details and Accessories, 1893 134 LIST OF APPENDICES APPENDIX Page A. Data Collection Instrument for Boys' Clothing 161 B. Handbook of Illustrations and Explanations 164 C. Photographs Analyzed for this study 183 D. Revised Data Collection Instrument for Boys' Clothing 184 DEVELOPMENT AND TESTING OF A DATA COLLECTION INSTRUMENT FOR BOYS' CLOTHING 1867-1910: AN OREGON PHOTOGRAPHIC STUDY CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION Over the past ten years, historic costume researchers have worked to fill in gaps in the knowledge of American dress.