Oyster beds and vineyard tours Mersea Island Total distance of main route is 21.6km/13.4miles Short walks A 8.9km/5.5miles B 5.2km/3.3miles Attractions along this route . 1 Mersea Island Museum 2 Mersea Island Vineyard 3 St Edmund, King and Martyr church in East Mersea 4 Cudmore Grove Country Park 5 Accommodation for details see overleaf 1 The Victory at Mersea 2 Waldegraves Holiday Park 3 Vine Cottage 4 Bromans Farm 5 B Rose Barn Cottage Places to eat 1 The Company Shed Tel: 01206 382700 2 The Coast Inn 4 Tel: 01206 383568 www.thecoastinn.co.uk 4 3 The Victory at Mersea Tel: 01206 382907 www.victoryatmersea.com 4 The Art Café Tel: 01206 385820 www.islandartcafe.co.uk 3 2 A 3 2 1 2 1 3 1 This map is intended as a guide only. Please refer to relevant 4 OS Explorer maps for specific details. Key Walking Route 3 Short walks Place of worship Telephone in rural area Public House 0 Kilometres 0.5 1 1.5 Reproduced from Ordnance Survey mapping with the permission of the National Rail controller of Her Majesty’s Stationery Office © Crown Copyright. 1 Unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown copyright and may lead to prosecution Accommodation or civil proceedings. Essex County Council. Licence no: 100019602, 2006 0 Miles 0.5 1 1 Restaurants Pill boxes dotted the coastline and distant We left Dougal near the Old Fort, the town specks of old men dug on the mudflats of Brightlingsea shimmering opposite, for cockles and whelks. just as a light drizzle started. Turning the corner into the Colne Estuary National Passing along the sea wall at Cudmore Nature Reserve, the mortal purr of the sea Grove Country Park, at the island’s beyond, blankets of cloud thickened. The eastern tip, we met enthusiastic ranger wind picked up, and a mist descended, Dougal Urquhart, who pointed out geese, as smoke from a distant log fire wafted flocks of golden plovers and widgeons temptingly over. grazing on fields behind. At the highest cliffs on the island, a mere fifteen feet, Passing the Colchester Oyster Fishery (the fallen oaks littered the beach below, island has had a tradition of oyster fishing signifying their retreat by a metre a year. since Roman times), the weather cleared The island continued to pull us round in Mersea is a very unique island offering Dougal showed us river gravel in the and the scenery became increasingly trance-like pleasure, the blur of marshes a multitude of activities to the visitor. low cliffs that is 300,000 years old: this epic: vast fields, god-defying skies, relentless, gulls ululating high above, and, A variety of events including the annual was where, early last century, bones of longshore mudflats that stretched for with no sight of The Strood I wondered regatta and food festival, the clean elephant tusk, narrow-nosed rhino, bears ever, and creeks that surely must conceal whether it had swallowed us the way beaches and beach huts along with a and giant deer were discovered. crocodiles. The landscape was biblical: a toad gulps down a mosquito: but number of holiday parks attract many for it seemed unbelievable that we were then, around the 15 kilometre mark, we a short break to the island. (thanks to GPS) just 48 miles from home in climbed a ridge and – with a sigh of relief North London. – spied cars crossing the distant Strood. Other attractions to visit are: By Stephen Emms of white clapperboard houses, and The end was in sight! Give a man an island, and he’ll have acclaimed Company Shed restaurant 1. Mersea Island Museum an overwhelming desire to walk round it. where, the day before, we had schlurped The last few kilometres slipped by, after This quality assured attraction allows With its scenically diverse 22km perimeter down native oysters with BYO local wine. a hastily-gobbled lunch of sandwiches, the visitor to find out more about the path, Mersea is a case in point: the most Blue sky smiled over the creeks, and the juice, and squashed Jaffa Cakes. traditional local activities such as fishing, easterly inhabited island in England, it’s sun pinged off the mudflats, but the wind Balancing along a muddy ridge between oystering, wild fowling and boat building. connected by the only Anglo-Saxon was already up, the boat masts clinking as two dykes, we crossed the main road and A reconstruction within the museum of causeway in England, the ‘Strood’, but still noisily as a gorilla running over a xylophone. once again civilization dawned upon us. a typical weather-boarded fisherman’s cut off a few times a month at high tide. cottage provides an insight to the life And it reeks of history: Roman pavements The first stretch, along the wilds of Mersea Just five hours after our start, we during Victorian times. There are also lurk under its elegant St Peter and Paul beach, was a stunning vista of yachts, collapsed on the mossy rocks of the exhibits of the island’s social history, church (itself built in 1046); it bagged dilapidated houseboats, and the ‘monkey anchorage, and grabbed a much- natural history and archaeology. itself a mention in the Domesday Book steps’ (where, in the 18th and 19th needed pint at The Coast Inn, a cosy Tel: 01206 385191 The first stretch, along the wilds of (as home of one hundred ‘souls’); and, centuries, officials would guard against waterfront pub once frequented by www.merseamuseum.org.uk during the First World War, a zeppelin was smugglers), the spectre of Bradwell Power Winston Churchill. Never, it has to be said, Mersea beach, was a stunning vista of even shot down here. Station looming meanwhile across the did fish and chips taste so good. yachts, dilapidated houseboats, and water. Parasurfers sped by and we passed But it’s only walking the perimeter can you hundreds of beach huts in every shade the ‘monkey steps’ where, in the 18th grasp a true feel for a place. And so, on of green, blue and brown, followed by a glorious morning, we set off from the ice cream coloured novelty versions with and 19th centuries, officials would guard anchorage’s attractive ‘Old City’ quarter scalloped edges and balustrades. against smugglers 4. Cudmore Grove Country Park Places to eat: Getting to Mersea Island Essex This Green Flag Award holder country There are more country pubs offering a Arriving by Road • SAFFRON WALDEN park is located at the eastern end of the variety of fayre, we have highlighted just If you are travelling from London or the south, DEDHAM • island. The fine views across the Colne a few. • THAXTED • HALSTEAD MANNINGTREE • HARWICH • take the A12 from junction 28 of the M25. • COLCHESTER and Blackwater estuaries are not to be Leave the A12 at junction 27 and take the A133 GREAT DUNMOW BRAINTREE • • missed. If you love sunsets this is the 1. The Company Shed towards Colchester followed by the A134. Finally STANSTED AIRPORT Map 3 CLACTON-ON-SEA • WITHAM place to watch the sun slowly slip down The Times Restaurant Guide has rated take the B1025 crossing the Strood Causeway HARLOW CHELMSFORD • • • BRADWELL through the hazy sky, casting a red glow this small restaurant highly and sees onto the island. MALDON • as it drops lower and lower. Walk the sea customers come from afar to sample • WALTHAM ABBEY Getting to Mersea Island by public transport • BURNHAM-ON-CROUCH • LOUGHTON • BRENTWOOD wall, explore the shore and watch for their food. Please make sure you arrive • BASILDON Colchester is served by a frequent rail National • ROCHFORD wildlife. Behind the sandy beach is an early as no bookings are taken. And don’t Express East Anglia rail service directly from LONDON • SOUTHEND-ON-SEA area of cliff top and grassland providing forget to bring your own drinks and bread! London Liverpool Street. For more information • THURROCK • TILBURY a tranquil open landscape for picnics, Tel: 01206 382700 please call 0845 600 7245 or visit www. 2. Mersea Island Vineyard 3. St Edmund, King and Martyr church nationalexpresseastanglia.com A regular bus Legend has it that the Romans grew in East Mersea. flying kites and other outdoor activities. service runs from Colchester to Mersea Island. grapes on the Island. The vineyard is This was one of the few moated churches Tel: 01206 383868 2. The Coast Inn www.essex.gov.uk/countryparks For a more formal setting and relaxed Travel information can also be obtained by calling 0871 200 2233 or visiting www.traveline.org.uk located on gently sloping south facing in the country. The area is thought to fields making it the perfect place to have been the camp of the Viking atmosphere this restaurant offers grow vines. The grape varieties grown Hasten, who spent two winters in Mersea traditional fish and chips using the Accommodation at the vineyard produce quality white and plundered the country as far as catch of the day, mussels and other 1 The Victory at Mersea 4 Bromans Farm local seafood using only the finest local HHHH HHHH wines which vary from dry to medium- Chester. The present building dates from Inn B&B produce. Mersea Island CO5 8LS Mersea Island CO5 8UE dry. All are full bodied and fruity with a the reign of King John, 12th-13th century. Tel: 01206 382907 Tel: 01206 383235 floral aroma. Why not tour the vineyard Its large, prominent tower looks out to Tel: 01206 383568 www.victoryatmersea.com www.bromansfarm.co.uk followed by wine tasting, a platter of sea and is a landmark for yachts sailing www.thecoastinn.co.uk 2 Waldegraves Holiday Park seafood (provided by the Company in the Blackwater.