Index 387 INDEX Pages in italics indicate illustrations temperatures, 24, 26, 114, 115–16 times, 114 Baking pans and molds, 39–40, 40 A Bannetons, 38–39 Barley, 56 Acetic acid, 129, 130, 347 Bâtards, scoring, 111–12, 111 Acetic bacteria, 347 Beam balance scale, 36 Acetic fermentation, 95 Bench brushes, 37 Acidity of water, 59, 60 Bench knives. See Bench scrapers Acids in dough, 69, 70, 87, 93, 98 Bench rest, 101 Acids in fermentation, 61, 62, 98, 99, 118, 120, Bench scrapers, 35, 37 124, 126, 127, 128, 129, 130, 346, 347, 348 Biga, 15, 125–26, 125, 199 Active dry yeast, 63–64 Boules, scoring, 112, 113 Adding salt, 15, 65, 71, 93, 98, 123, 130, 346 Bowl scrapers, 35, 37 Adding soaker, 131 Bread All‐purpose flour, 54 in religion and folklore, 4, 14, 19 Amaranth, 56 shapes and types, French, 7, 9, 10–13 Amylase, 48, 50, 97, 122, 343, 344, 346 shapes and types, German and European, 19–21 Artisan bread, defined, 2 shapes and types, Italian, 13–17 Artisan bread, making, 78–118 social politics of, 9–10 Ash content, 46, 48, 50 technology of, 10 Autolyse, 65, 93, 121 Bread flour, 53 Brushes, 37 B Buckwheat flour, 55 Bulk fermentation, 95–99, 96 Bacteria, 95, 127 Butter, 68 Baguette molders, 32–33 Butter block, 208–209, 209 Baguettes baking, 114 C scoring, 109, 110, 111 troubleshooting, 110–11 Cake flour, 55 Bakers’ percentage, 43, 78–81COPYRIGHTEDCarbohydrates, MATERIAL 45, 60, 61, 64, 68, 75, 96–97, 122, 346 basis of, 78 Characteristics of flour, 44, 46 calculating, 79 Characteristics of wheat, 44 and preferment quantities, 80–81 Cheese as inclusion, 71–72 and preferments, 121 Chlorine in water, 59, 129 units of measure in, 78 Chocolate as inclusion, 72–73 uses of, 78 Ciabatta, 101, 309 using to calculate ingredient amounts, 79–80 Clean‐up stage, 90, 91 Bakers’ scale, 36 Clear flour, 49 Bakery equipment, 10, 23–41 Cocoa as coloring agent, 73 Bakery layout, 9 Cold soakers, 131 Baking, 113–16 Commercial enrichments, 69 determining doneness, 36, 116 Compressed yeast, 63 388 Index Concha cutter, 35 Dried yeast, 63 Convection oven, standard, 25–26 Durum flour, 53 Convection rack oven, 23, 25, 34, 114, 115 Durum wheat, 45, 53 Cooling, 116–18 Dutchess dough dividers, 30–31 Cooling racks, 34 Cornmeal, 56 E Couches, 38 Covering dough, importance of, 39, 58, 61, 101 Effects of mixing methods, 89 Cream yeast, 63 Eggs, 67, 95 Creating sour starter, 128 Enriched dough, characteristics of, 206 Croissant cutter, 35 Enriched dough, mixing, 20 Croissant, history of, 8 Enrichments, 67–69, 94–95 Crumb color, 54, 87, 88, 89 Enzymatic balance in flours, 97 Crumb structure, 15, 16, 58, 87, 88, 89, 93, 116, Enzyme activity, 50, 57, 93, 347–48 122, 123, 309, 344 in fermentation, 96 Crust and preferments, 122, 123 browning or caramelization, 58, 67, 68 in sour culture, 129 characteristics of, 7, 9, 15, 16, 17, 43, 53, 116, Equipment for bread baking, 23–41 117, 123, 124 cooling racks, 34 development, 24, 25, 26, 58, 65, 75, 111, dough dividers and molders, 30–33 115–16, 348 mixers, 28–30 Culture elaboration, 128 oven loaders, 33–34, 114 ovens, 23–27 D proofer, 27, 34, 106 retarder, 27 Danish, history of, 8 reversible dough sheeters, 33 de Bonnefons, Nicholas, 7 scales, 34–36 Deactivated yeast, 64 small and hand tools, 34–41, 35 Deck oven, 23, 24, 114 speed racks, 34 Desired dough temperature (DDT), 36, 57, 82–83, thermometers, 36 90, 92, 118 water chillers and meters, 30 Determining doneness, 36, 116 work surfaces, 28 Digital scales, 35 Expandable pastry wheel, 35 Divider rounders, 32 Extensibility, 43, 44, 48, 49, 52, 57, 64, 65, 68, 87, Dividing, 100 88, 90, 93, 94, 98, 101, 115, 123, 125, 130 Double hydration mixing method, 92, 94 Extracts and flavorings as inclusions, 73–74 Dough condition and eggs, 67 F consistency, 57 structure, 32, 33, 43, 44, 53, 59, 61, 62, 65, 72, Factors affecting sour culture, 129–30 85, 87, 88, 89, 90, 92, 98, 99, 100, 101, 106, Farinograph, 50–51, 51 113, 115, 116, 208, 347 Farro, 56 Dough dividers, 30–32 Fat as enrichment, 94 Dough docker, 35 Feeding sour starter, 128–30 Dough hook attachment, 29 Fermentation, 44, 57. See also Final fermentation Dough maturation, 62 about, 346 Dough molders, 32–33 adjusting for temperature, 92 Dough sheeters, reversible, 33 basics of, 61 Dried fruits as inclusions, 73, 74 bulk, 95–99 Index 389 chemical reactions in, 95–97 and fat, 94 and DDT, 82 and inclusions, 69 defined, 95–97 and mixing methods, 85–89 effects of, 97–98 and sugar, 95 factors affecting, 98 Gluten formation, 43, 44, 56, 75, 90 final, 106–107 Gluten structure, 57, 58, 59, 65, 89, 90, 92, 93, 95, history, 3 97, 99, 100, 115, 121, 344 and improved mixing method, 88 Grain soakers, 131 and intense mixing method, 89 Grains as inclusions, 74–76 and short mixing method, 86 Green flour, 48 and sugar, 67 and water pH, 60 H role of salt, 65 temperatures, 128 Hands, importance of, 34 types of, 95 Hard wheat, 44, 45 Fertile Crescent, 3 Herbs as inclusion, 72 Final development stage, 90, 91 High‐gluten flour, 53 Final dough temperature (FDT), 82, 83, 93 History of bread baking, 3–10, 13–15, 17–19, 21 Final fermentation, 106–107 Egypt, 3–5 First fermentation. See Bulk fermentation France, 6–13 Flatbreads, about, 289–91 Germany and Eastern Europe, 17–21 Flour, 43–56 Italy, 13–17 bacteria content, 127 Rome, 5–6 dark rye, 345 setting standards, 7 enzyme activity, 50 Vienna, 8 grades of, 48–49 History of flatbreads, 289–90 history of processing, 3–4, 10 History of rye, 343 medium rye, 345 Hot soakers, 131 milling, 3–4, 10, 45, 46–48 Hydration, 56, 57, 58, 90, 93, 94, 95, 99, 101, 118, pumpernickel, 345 120, 123, 124, 126, 129, 131, 348 purpose of, 43 adjusting, 78 refining, 10 and folding, 99 rye, 18 of flour, 92 semolina, 17 level of preferment, 126, 199, 206 specification sheets, 49–53, 51 in sour culture, 129 types of, 53–56 of yeast, 61 uses of, 45 Hydraulic dividers, 31 white rye, 345 Folding, 62, 86, 87, 88, 98, 99, 99, 130, 309 I Folding laminated dough, 207, 208, 209, 209 Fork mixers. See Oblique mixers Improved mixing method, 86, 87–88, 87, 90 Four‐fold lamination, 208 Inclusions and garnishes, 69–76, 95. See also Fresh yeast, 63 specific inclusion Ingredients, 43–76 G Initial development stage, 90, 91 Instant dry yeast, 64 Garnishes. See Inclusions Instant‐read thermometers, 36 Gluten development, 49, 62, 69, 75, 85–88, 90, Intense mixing method, 88–89, 88, 90 92–93, 98, 131 Intermediate fermentation. See Bench rest 390 Index K O Knives, 39 Oats, 55–56 Oblique mixers, 29–30, 94 Organic acids, 61, 62, 98, 127 L Organic flour for sourdough starter, 127, 128 Lactic acid, 60, 129, 130, 347 Oven loaders, 33–34, 114 Lactic bacteria, 127, 346 Oven peel, 41 Lactic fermentation, 95 Oven spring, 107, 115 Lames, 39, 107 Oven temperature, 114, 115–16 Oxidation, 89, 93, 123. Oxygen Laminated dough, 206, 207–209, 209 See also La Varenne, 7 Oxygen in fermentation, 61–62, 128 Lean dough, defined, 120 Oxygen in mixing, 90, 93 Le Cuisinier Francois, 7 Les Delices de la Campagne, 7 P Levain, 126 Paddle attachment, 29 Liquid levain, 122, 126, 127, 133 Panettone, 17 Parmentier, Antoine Augustin, 9 M Pasteur, Louis, 10 Pastry brushes, 37 Malouin, Paul Jacques, 9 Pastry flour, 55 Malt, 50, 67, 68, 95, 122, 128 Pâte fermentée, 122, 123. See also Preferments Manual Dutchess dough dividers, 30–31 Patent flour, 48 McCormick, Cyrus, 10 Peels, 41 Measuring, importance of precision, 34 pH, 60, 62, 74, 98, 348. See also Acids Mendel, Gregor, 10 Pickup stage, 90, 91 Milk, 68 Poilâne, Lionel, Max, and Pierre, 10 Millet, 56 Politics of bread, 9–10 Milling flour, 3–4, 10, 45, 46–48 Poolish, 122, 123, 123–24, 124 Mixer attachments, 29 Poolish method, 8, 10, 11, 121 Mixer friction, calculating, 83 Precision in measuring, 34 Mixers, 28–30, 94 Preferment, 98, 120–31, 206–207. See also Biga, Mixing Levain, Poolish, Sourdough, Sponge and salt use, 65 about, 120 effects of, 92–93 history, 10 inclusions, 69, 74 incorporating, 121 incorporating enrichments and inclusions, 94–95 mixing, 121 methods, 85–89, 89, 90, 92, 93 quantities and bakers’ percentage, 80–81 Mixing log, 93 types of, 123–31 Mixing stages, 90, 91 Pre‐fermented dough, 123. See also Mixing times, 57, 62, 69, 89, 90, 94, 98, 99, 123 Pâte fermentée calculating, 90 Preliminary development stage, 90, 91 factors affecting, 94 Preserving liquid levain without daily feeding, 133 and mixers, 94 Preserving sour without daily feeding, 148, 201 Preshaping, 100–101 N Pretzels, history of, 21 Pretzels, safety measures when dipping, 303 Nuts as inclusions, 74 Probe thermometers, 36 Index 391 Production efficiency, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 36, in sour culture, 130 89, 120 types of, 66–67 Proof box or proofer, 27, 34, 106 and yeast, 65 Proofing, 27, 41. See also Final fermentation Savory inclusions, 73–74 Proofing baskets, 38–39 Scales, 34–36 Proofing boards, 38 Scaling, 84–85, 85 Protease, 48, 69, 93, 122, 130 Scoring, 39, 107–13, 108, 109, 110 Protein in flour, 53, 54, 55, 68, 92 Scrapers, 35, 37 Protein in rye, 347 Seed soakers, 131 Seeds as inclusion, 72 Semolina flour, 17, 53 Q Shaping, 87, 101–105 Quinoa, 56 Babka, 217 Bagels, 190 Baguette, 103–104 R Basler Brot, 374 Bâtard, 105, 105 Refreshing liquid levain, 133 Boule, 104–105, 104 Refreshing sour, 148, 201 Brioche, 271 Rehydrating active dry yeast, 63–64 Challah, 277–78 Rehydrating dried fruits, 73, 74 Ciabatta, 309 Religion and folklore, bread in, 4, 14, 19 Danish, 256–57 Retarder, 27, 34 Epi Baguette, 134 Reverse osmosis systems, 60 Focaccia, 325 Reversible dough sheeters, 33 Fougasse, 312 Rice flour, 55 Gugelhopf, 223 Rolling pins, 35, 37 Kaiser Rolls, 235 Rye bread Knot Rolls, 239 about, 343–48 Miche, 102 baking, 114 Pane Siciliano, 186–87 spices in, 72 Pretzels, 303–304 storing, 346 St.