Vol. 10, No. 87, 2 L$VG`%:`7+ February 2016 PASSIONATE ABOUT On the cover: Olha Zhenchak TRUFFLES OLGA ZHENCHAK DELIGHTFUL OWNER AND GENEROUS HOST (charming owner of Tartufo Trattoria) OF TRATTORIA TARTUFO Photography by: Yaroslav Monchak LVIV BECOMES CHESS CAPITAL AND IS SET TO CROWN Make-up by: Halyna Dzyuba THE NEW QUEEN! Ramada Lviv Hotel leave the rest to us sm Тел.: +38 (032) 243-00-10, моб.: +38 (067)320-44-77 [email protected], Hair style: Nadiya Kopystyns’ka www.ramadalviv.com.ua Living Like a Local Having spent several years in Ukraine, I am always amazed when I meet PARTY LIKE A LOCAL a foreigner that lives here and has yet to try a “truly Ukrainian” experience. I’m not talking about a bowl of borshch and plate of varenyky somewhere on There are so many reasons to celebrate in Ukraine – Eastern holidays, West- Rynok Square, but of the way your average, run-of-the-mill Ukrainian spends ern holidays, and special days for names, professions, and anniversaries – their day. If the words marshrutka, Dzidzio, and salo mean nothing to you – there is no shortage of different ways to celebrate either. While many foreign- then you might want to keep reading. For nearly 8 years, Lviv Today has been ers have already checked out one of Lviv’s many hopping clubs, Ukrainians showing Leopolitans, guests of the city, and foreigners living among us just prefer to party in a slightly different manner. If you’ve not yet been to a wed- what is going on in our great city and this month is no different – Ameri- ding or other large celebration, you are missing out on one of the most cultur- can lawyer Bate C. Toms looks at how the new British-Ukrainian Chamber al experiences the country has to offer. You can tell you are at one if the table of Commerce office in Lviv will impact the city, and British author Alex Stemp has no room for another plate, there is more alcohol on the table than non- discusses the train journey to Budapest. But if you are looking for a truly alcoholic drinks, and if someone stands up every few minutes to give a toast. unique Ukrainian experience, you should learn to live like a local. As Ukrainians love to sing, a great place to find one of these is at a karaoke club. If you drink, be sure to keep eating – and be sure to try some of the lo- GET AROUND LIKE A LOCAL cal delicacies. While outside Ukraine, the country is known for its borshch (beet soup), varenyky (dumplings), and holuptsi (cabbage rolls), Ukrainians Ukraine is actually a pretty easy place to get around in. There are plenty view their national dish as salo (bacon fat). It comes in all shapes, sizes, and of options to choose from – busses, taxis, tramways, trains – and they all seasonings – and you’ll surely be a local for enjoying it. offer good value. The majority of Ukrainians don’t make much money each month, so penny-pinching is important. In that regard, the cheapest forms of SPEAK LIKE A LOCAL transportation are the tram (2 UAH), marshrutkas (mini city busses, 4 UAH), and elektrichkas (suburban trains, prices depend on distance). These are Finally, to truly experience Ukraine as a local, you’ll need to pick up a little bit highly popular, very busy, and nearly always come with a great story – from of the language. And while Russian will be understood by any local you meet the breakdancing Gypsies to brunching babushkas. If you want to meet lo- in Lviv, if you really want to impress Leopolitans, you should learn a little bit cals, or have a truly Ukrainian experience, using public transport is essential. of Ukrainian. This means more than just the basic ‘Good day’, ‘Thank you’, and ‘I don’t understand’ phrases. Ukrainian is a rich and poetic language with plen- CHILL LIKE A LOCAL ty of interesting and useful phrases that are not too difficult to learn. Some of my favourites are: ‘hroshi na veeter’ (money in the wind / waste of money); Like anywhere else, Ukrainians have many different ways to relax during their ‘ya prosto zhartuyu’ (I’m only kidding); ‘ne pilikai’ (stop chirping / be quiet); and free time. Many have to do with the outdoors and are “must-try” experienc- ‘ty perebilshuyesh’ (you’re exaggerating). There are plenty of es on their own – like mushroom-hunting and shashlik (shish kebab). But classes and tutors available in the city that will be hap- one activity that Ukrainians really enjoy is singing. If you go to a local’s home, py to teach you some more, or you can pick up a book chances are that a music show like X Factor or Voice of Ukraine will be on the or even download an app to your phone (Duolingo is tube. In that regard, try finding a couple of Ukrainian bands that you really en- popular). You’ll be amazed at just how much more joy – and Lviv’s-own Okean Elzy and Ruslana don’t count. All you need to do you’ll experience after picking up just a few words of is turn on a music channel here – don’t worry, they actually play music vide- Ukrainian. It’s the best way to learn to live like a local. os – and find a sound you like. Some of the more popular contemporary sing- ers include: Vera Brezhneva, Dzidzio, The Hardkiss, Onuka, SKAY, Druha Rika, Lee Reaney, Jamala, and Tina Karol. Ukrainians will love that you know about their music. Editor of Lviv Today Publishers: Peter Dickinson & Boleslav Malinovski Advertising inquiries: Letters to the editor: Registration information: Lviv Today is registered with Editor-in-Chief: Viktoriya Larina [email protected] [email protected] the Ukrainian Ministry of Justice as a print media title. Editor: Lee Reaney Tel.: +38 032 235 81 00 www.lvivtoday.com.ua License number: LV 862/115 Managing editor: Mila Hadzieva Mob.: +38 068 501 35 01 Journalists: Olha Schchur, Robert Baker, Lviv Today is West Ukraine’s English- All materials published in Lviv Today are the intellectual property Orest Koronenko, Lee Reaney Address: language monthly lifestyle magazine. of the publisher and remain protected by Ukrainian and international Designer: Oles Mizernyi Lviv Today Editorial O!ce It is distributed via leading hotels, copyright laws. Open Borders Publishing does not accept responsibility Photography: 27/9 Valova str. airlines, restaurants and business for the goods and services advertised in Lviv Today. While every e#ort Evgen Kraws, Vitaliy Grabar, Lviv 79000 Ukraine centres throughout Lviv region. has been made to make sure information provided is accurate and photo agency ”Lufa” Tel. +38 032 235 81 00 Monthly circulation: 5,000 up-to-date, we advise readers to double check where appropriate. LVIV TODAY | February 2016 3.