CLYDE MINARET The Sierra Nevada Southeast Face 5.8 By Robert “SP” Parker The Minarets, Clyde Minaret is the tallest. photo: Todd Vogel Introduction Southeast Face - CLYDE MINARET L The Minarets area is Lookout Mountain To The Minarets From The Trailhead © Rockfax 2004 one of the most beau- 8,352 ft O Clyde Minaret San Joaquin N tiful in the High Sierra. river bridge Southeast Face 5.8 E Green tinged metamor- Olaine Mammoth Little Antelope 8,900 ft Middle Fork of San Lake Joaquin River Agnew Meadows Valley P phic rocks interlayered Campground and Scenic Loop 8,000 ft Agnew I with quartz glean and Trailhead Shadow Creek Meadows N 8,200 ft Shadow Lake River Trail Campgrounds sparkle amongst P E Minaret and rushing creeks and The Minarets end of Trailhead 12, 281 ft Summit Road 395 maintained trail Rosalie Lake B scented pine forests. FS Entrance WARMING Ediza Lake ANSELL Station WALL P I This is a popular hiking ADAMS 9,270 ft S 203 Cabin Lake destination but the WILDERNESS SKI AREA 8,200 ft H O climber is also drawn to 11.053ft 203 Agnew Devils Postpile Lake Mary Mammoth Meadow P Road the jagged peaks of the National Monument Sotcher Lake Lakes Minaret Crest. Readily 7,800 ft O Hot Spring W visible from Highway Red's Meadow Iceburg E 395 and from the lifts of HORSESHOE Lake 10,000 ft N SLABS Lake Mary S the Mammoth Mountain BEAR CRAG DIKE WALL Ski area the south face The Minarets Cecile Clyde Minaret R 3 mile CRYSTAL CRAG © Rockfax 2004 10,500 ft of Clyde Minaret domi- Lake Southeast Face 5.8 I V nates the area and from a distance appears steep and blank. Even from the base of the face Minaret E the way appears improbably steep, but upon closer contact the rock offers sharp edged hold Lake R and straight in cracks providing straightforward climbing. But the climb-anywhere nature of 12,281ft 1 mile Minaret Trail from Devil’s Postpile G the rock increases the route finding problems since the options are plentiful. Consequently O the route has developed a reputation for hard route finding and there are many rappel and APPROACH R retreat slings where the unwary have climbed themselves into deadends. Careful assessment G E and constant evaluation is necessary to ensure making the summit before dark and having From Mammoth Lakes take the road past the ski area to Mammoth mountain. During the summer a mandatory shuttle is used to access the Devils Postpile area. The shuttle will drop an unnecessary bivouac. S you off or pick you up at the trail. This may not suit the uncertainties of climbing so there is H vehicle access prior to 7.30am and after 5.00pm. Once past the entrance station there are E two options to approach the climb. R The legendary W Norman Clyde made I We recommend starting from Agnew Meadows and taking the River Trail to the San Joaquin N the first ascent of river bridge and ascending to beautiful Shadow Lake. From here travel west up the drainage this, the highest R to Ediza Lake below the Minarets. The maintained trail ends here, but a use trail takes the point in the O south side of the lake and passes through meadows to Iceberg Lake. Ascend talus on the C Minarets, solo in K east side of the lake finding intermittent parts of a path until Cecile Lake is reached. Travel 1928 via the Clyde on the west side of the lake to a bivvy site on a bench above the lake and below the south- C Couloir on the north east face. R side of the peak and E his name has been E The longer alternative, with more elevation gain, is to take the trail from Reds Meadow to K attached to the peak Minaret Lake. The lake can be used as a base camp or a use trail can be taken on the north in keeping with their M side of the lake. Follow this up into a broad gully capped by a short rock wall that is climbed naming after the first A via a short 3rd/4th class chimney to Cecile Lake. Those wanting a higher camp can use the M ascensionist. M bivvy sites above the lake. O T The south face PERMITS H remained untouched Photo caption right photographer despite its high visi- Overnite stays in the Ansel Adam Wilderness require free backcountry permits. These can be A bility until 1963 when Yosemite Valley veterans Allen Steck, Dick Long, John Evans and obtained from the Mammoth Lakes Visitor Center & Ranger Station, located on the north side L of SR 203 just before reaching Mammoth Lakes. It is advisable to get a permit in advance: P Chuck Wilts made the ascent in one long day from Minaret Lake on June 22. Their line I started part way up the Clyde-Ken Couloir via a long traverse avoiding the difficulties of the http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/inyo/vc/mammoth.html or call 760-924-5500. Camp fires are not N lower face. A direct start was added later by unknown climbers and while slightly more diffi- permitted and camping is restricted to designated areas. E cult is recommended for the better line and higher quality climbing on solid rock. I BEAR CANNISTERS C You will need to rent a bear cannister from a Ranger station or local outdoor shop. E 283 Southeast Face Southeast Face - CLYDE MINARET Equipment L O The Southeast Face 5.8 Of Clyde Minaret N The Climb E In early season an ice axe and crampons may be needed to approach the climb and for the P descent via the Ken-Clyde Couloir. The approach to the base is obvious from Cecile Lake. I The direct start is the set of right-facing corners, left of center of the face. The original start N Clyde Minaret E 12,281ft requires ascending the Ken-Clyde Couloir for 200 feet where a cairn may be found that marks the start of the route on the shadowed southwest face. After two pitches on the B regular route and three on the direct both routes converge at the base of a wide crack that is I S visible from the base of the route. Ascend the corner and crack, avoiding the widest part of H the crack itself to a good ledge. From here a series of corners and cracks are followed for O three pitches to just below the top of a broad shallow pillar. Belaying below the top of this P sets the leader up for the traverse on small holds to the base of the first corner. Climbing O this, avoid placing too much protection, or back clean it to avoid rope drag. Avoid the large W ledge on the right because of large loose blocks and belay at a small stance. Climb over a E N small roof and straight up on small but good holds to the base of a left-facing corner with a S Second Big Corner crack on its right side. Ascend this to a good ledge. The corner continuation above has some loose blocks that can be avoided and climb into a wide slot behind a giant block. A short R I loose pitch above then leads to the top of the face proper. Climb on the right side of the V crest on 4th class ground and then a steep, but easy, arete to the final ridge traverse to the E R White Scar summit. Rock route descent G First Big Corner Descent O R There are two options depending upon whether gear or not has been left at the base. G E Top Of Tower The Clyde-Ken Descent. Follow down the summit ridge to the northwest until almost at the S low point between Clyde and Eichorn Minarets. Descend the left side of the ridge down easy H ledges to the saddle between Clyde and Ken Minarets. Descend into the Clyde Ken Couloir E on the left side of the gully until a rappel anchor is found that will take one down over the R Clyde- Ken W descent large chockstone in the couloir. This is a double rope rappel and may take the climber to I snow requiring crampons and ice axe. The snow can be followed back to the base of the N route. R O The Rock Route Descent. Follow down the summit ridge for several hundred feet until a C descent can be made towards a tower on the north side. Beware of descending too early K into the Clyde Couloir; C the real one is the R second main gully. At E E the tower descend to K 5.8 start the left and enter a M 5.9 direct start steep gully. The gully A can be followed all the M way down to open M O Clyde - Ken slopes dropping to Couloir T Cecile Lake or a H traverse can be made A approach when on a ledge to the L base of the route. This P traverse may have I N snow on it in early E season and be dangerous and tricky I C without crampons and E ice axe. Photo caption right photographer 285.