CELEBRATIONS # 79 Directors Table of Contents Amaru Villanueva Rance, Ivan Rodriguez Petkovic, Rodrigo # Barrenechea, Sharoll Fernandez, Wilmer Machaca, Caroline Risacher 79 Partners Celebrations Jack Kinsella, Xenia Elsaesser Editorial Team Caroline Risacher, Matthew Grace, Juan Victor Fajardo BX docunit Nicolás Taborga, William Wroblewski Printing and Advertising Manager Ivan Rodriguez Petkovic Commercial Manager Rodrigo Barrenechea General Coordinator Wilmer Machaca Social Coordinator Caroline Risacher Head of Production Adriana L. Murillo Argandoña E Head of Design Luis Aranda Photography Instructor eelings for ST OF Manuel Seoane Journalism Instructor he Night PAZ Reynaldo Gonzales Journalists 122 144 Charles Bladon, David Fegan, Fruzsina Gál, Daisy Lucker Our Cover Photo: Alexandra Meleán Marketing Rodrigo Barrenechea Advertise With Us [email protected] Address NDID HOLIDAY e Andoro Calle Prolongación Armaza, # 2957, Sopocachi, La Paz Phone SPIRIT perience 78862061- 76561628 - 70672031 Contact 188 200 [email protected] La Paz – Bolivia ristmas in ofile of a December 2017 anslation City Zebra /Bolivianexpress 222 244 @Bolivianexpress @Bolivianexpress ute Cuisine e Pride of a Fashionable 266Aiquile 288îte www.boliviaunlimited.org llet ix 300Bolivia 366tel Thanks to: Gobierno Autónomo Municipal de La Paz “Casa Cebra” Editorial # 79: Celebrations By: Caroline Risacher n the West, Christmas is a fusion of start to lose their original essence. The in this issue about the arduous path he took pagan and Christian celebrations. In Ballet de Bolivia attempts to preserve the to create a successful business, on page 36. Bolivia, end-of-year festivities coincide primary meaning behind these traditions Traditions and celebrations in Bolivia are a with the arrival of the rainy season and by combining classical ballet techniques patchwork, an aguayo tapestry that reflects the summer solstice, events that were with indigenous Bolivian dance. Fruzsina the diversity and unity of the people of Latin vital for the agricultural pre-Columbian Gál interviews Jimmy Calla Montoya, the America. One item that tells this story like Icivilisations that ruled the continent. Today, company’s founder and the driving force no other, and which is central to Christmas the combination of Christian and indigenous behind these eff orts, on page 30. celebrations in Bolivia, is the panetón, a traditions makes for a very special type of sweet bread traditionally eaten around holiday, with a syncretism that manifests In this issue of Bolivian Express, the last of Christmas and paired with hot chocolate. A itself in parades and traditional indigenous the year, we want to celebrate Bolivia and ubiquitous feature of Christmas in Bolivia, dances performed in front of pesebres. its ancient, vibrant and evolving culture. the panetón is actually a recent import from One of our Bolivian Express elves, Charles And we are looking at it through the eyes of Peru (and originally brought from Europe by Bladon, explores the intricacies of a Bolivian a new generation of Bolivian artists such as Italian immigrants at the turn of the 20th Christmas on page 22. the pop singer Andoro in addition to culinary century). You can now fi nd panetones made pioneers and entrepreneurs who are putting with such Bolivian ingredients such as coca Indeed, an essential element of Bolivian Bolivia in the forefront of their projects. Daisy and quinoa, and they are part of each and culture and celebration is dancing. The Lucker takes a look at the new restaurant every Bolivian Christmas canastón. holiday season is punctuated with parades, Popular, which puts a modern and inspired carnivals and opportunities to perform twist on Bolivian cuisine in the historical By celebrating Bolivian-ness, we are also dances learned in school. But in this fast- centre of the city. And it’s quite a success, embracing the multitude of influences that paced world that we live in, diff erent cultures as the restaurant’s founders deliver on accompanies it: the variety and uniqueness of and celebrations have become intertwined, their inspired idea to provide contemporary this culture, the foreign and diverse influences their meanings sometimes lost and often Bolivian food made by Bolivians with Bolivian that have helped shape the country since hidden behind layers of newer traditions. products. Another entrepreneur, hotel Atix its formation and that are part of all of us – Traditional dances evolve and slowly co-founder Carlos Rodriguez, is also profi led Bolivians, tourists, expats and the rest. Several Spanish and Aymara words are marked in bold throughout N.B. this issue. Their meanings can be found in our glossary. TEXT: Charles Bladon PHOTOS: Esteban Terrazas Saravia a Paz. The sun dissipates and, with it, my urban trepidation. The night encroaches, accompanied L by wonder and titillation. The night promises so much, the impossible seemingly possible only for one night. Inside the clubs lights flash, momentary blindness followed by momentary exposure to the dance floor in its totality. Distinct booms, bass resonating to your very core inspiring movement and dance. Pure euphoria, worries truly forgotten, only paying mind to the now. Amongst the worries and fears that grip the gentle people of La Paz also lie excitement and animation, dance resurrecting the youthful spirits drowned out by everyday life. Dancing is not escapism, dancing is rejuvenation. The night brings this so desperately yearned-for feeling. In La Paz, the night is not your enemy but your friend. 12 THE BEST OF JUICE Lady on the corner of Calle Cervantes and Avenida Ecuador (Sopocachi) LA PAZ No buzzing intersection, plaza or mercado can do without a joyful arrangement of colourful Our GUIDE TO THE must-TRY fruits. Whether it is only juice, fruit salad or an assortment of whatever the current season has to off er, one never has to go too far for some specialties OF THE CITY refreshment in La Paz. On the corner of Calle TEXT: Fruzsina Gál Cervantes and Avenida Ecuador is a joyful sight – a PHOTOS: Fruzsina Gál small cart fi lled with oranges, smelling of summer and sunshine. There is nothing better than pure, freshly squeezed orange juice amidst the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Mercado Lanza To wander the maze of Mercado Lanza next to Plaza San Francisco is an experience in itself, with levels folding in on themselves and stalls selling everything and anything one can think of. But to make it even more extraordinary, one must try n La Paz, culinary wonders are never far off . Whether it is what the depth of this eccentric market has to questionable street vendors off ering a taste of tradition or off er – and what better thing to go for than a glass renowned restaurants luring in crowds with the promise of fi lled to the brim with vitamin C? Jugo de toronja, an unrivalled experience, one need never go hungry or thirsty refreshingly sour, is something everyone must try. Iunder the sea of terracotta- coloured buildings stretching Antigua Miami Café from hill to hill. But to fi nd the Who says Hidden in the tourist centre of Calle Murillo is best of the best, trial and error is Antigua Miami, a quirky café off ering the best the only way. To save some time, one has to coff ees and seasonal juices. The interior design money and the potential of food paired with the chilled atmosphere of the place is poisoning, here are some of the reminiscent of artistic cities with their secret spots best, most delicious specialities stick with – it is a re-imagination of a more modern, younger of the sprawling city of La Paz. Bolivia. The juices complement the aesthetic – the expected, refreshing, the same old thing, but somehow new. even when the The surroundings are merely the icing on the cake. traditional is involved? [email protected] 14 Sandwich de Palta SINGANI Mercado Obrajes In other countries, avocado on toast is associated with excess money spent on Sunday brunches by young adults who cannot aff ord any of it. In Bolivia, COCKTAIL sandwich de palta is not only a usual meal, but the go-to delicacy both of the streets and of the MagicK fanciest cafés. Mercado Obrajes might be the Singani is the heart, life and soul of Bolivia. If a former, but no other place can compete with the restaurant does not have at least one singani- perfect balance of flavours of this small eccentric based cocktail, then it is probably not in Bolivia. cubby hole. Complete with apanado, vegetables, MagicK does best what the people love best – artisanal cheese and just the right amount of salt, chuflay. Mixed either with ginger ale or Sprite, this this sandwich de palta is undoubtedly number all-time classic brings home the flavour of its base one on the list. While they say always to choose in the most refreshing, and often overly alcoholic quality over quantity, it is safe to say that Mercado way. Because if there is one thing Bolivians like Obrajes satisfi es both. It will leave you wanting more than a chuflay, it is a strong chuflay. more. Gustu Café Typica Denying the genius behind Gustu would be like To think of San Miguel is to think of the endless denying the signifi cance of football in Bolivia – amounts of cosy cafés paired with an abundance untrue and pointless. Following along the lines of little shops far from the honking of the rest of of the ‘zero kilometre’ sentiment, it is only fi tting Zona Sur. Amidst this setting, Café Typica is that Gustu would have singani-based cocktails, the perfect getaway – hidden and vine-covered, the best of which is the chancaca. Consisting of a it off ers escape from the noise of the city. Its charming mixture of singani macerado, licor de sandwich de palta, consisting of, of course, naranja and chancaca (a type of raw sugar, for avocado, the most incredible grilled cheese and which the drink is named), this cocktail brings all sun-dried tomatoes, is just all the more reason Bolivian flavours together – the strong, the sweet, to spend a sunshine-fi lled afternoon under the the sour.