Parmesan, Cheddar, and the Politics of Generic Geographical Indications (Ggis)

Parmesan, Cheddar, and the Politics of Generic Geographical Indications (Ggis)

A Tale of Two Cheeses: Parmesan, Cheddar, and the Politics of Generic Geographical Indications (GGIs) by Sarah Goler Solecki BA of Arts [Colorado State University], Double MA of Arts in Euroculture [Palacký University Olomouc and Jagiellonian University Krakow] A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Politics and International Studies Globalisation, the EU, and Multilateralism (GEM) PhD School University of Warwick, Department of Politics and International Studies LUISS Guido Carli, Department of Political Science March 2015 Table of Contents List of Figures ............................................................................................................... i List of Tables................................................................................................................. i Abbreviations ............................................................................................................... ii Acknowledgements ..................................................................................................... iv Declaration ............................................................................................................... viii Abstract ........................................................................................................................ x Preface ......................................................................................................................... xi 1. Introduction .............................................................................................................. 1 1.2. Contestation and interests .................................................................................. 4 1.3. Globalization and the dairy industry ................................................................. 8 1.4. Research questions .......................................................................................... 12 1.5. Arguments ....................................................................................................... 12 1.6. Gastro-panic .................................................................................................... 14 1.7. Food Studies .................................................................................................... 18 1.8. Case study ........................................................................................................ 21 1.9. Methods ........................................................................................................... 23 1.10. Contribution ................................................................................................... 26 1.11. A seven course meal ...................................................................................... 30 2. GIs and Generics in the Literature ......................................................................... 34 2.1. Introduction ..................................................................................................... 34 2.2. Institutionalization ........................................................................................... 35 2.2.1. Regional level ........................................................................................... 35 2.2.2. European level .......................................................................................... 38 2.2.3. Global level ............................................................................................... 42 2.3. Quality Constructions ...................................................................................... 45 2.4. Contestation ..................................................................................................... 49 2.4.1. Regional level ........................................................................................... 49 2.4.2. European level .......................................................................................... 51 2.4.3. Global level ............................................................................................... 58 2.5. Conclusion ....................................................................................................... 64 3. Moral Panic, Securitization, and Myth: Theorizing the Gastro-Panic ................... 66 3.1. Introduction ..................................................................................................... 66 3.2. Moral Panic ..................................................................................................... 67 3.2.1. The limitations of moral panic .................................................................. 68 3.2.2. Exploring the ‘gastro’ in gastro-panic ...................................................... 71 3.2.3. Defining moral panic ................................................................................ 75 3.2.4. Why do moral panics occur? .................................................................... 82 3.3. Security and the Copenhagen School .............................................................. 84 3.3.1. Food: a non-traditional security issue ....................................................... 84 3.3.2. Broadening the agenda: the CS ................................................................. 89 3.3.3. Securitization ............................................................................................ 91 3.4. Barthes and Myth ............................................................................................ 95 3.4.1. Constructing myth................................................................................... 100 3.4.2. Terroirism ............................................................................................... 105 3.4.3. Genericism .............................................................................................. 108 3.5. Synthesizing Moral Panic, Securitization, and Myth: Towards the Gastro- panic ..................................................................................................................... 113 3.6. Conclusion ..................................................................................................... 115 4. The King of Cheeses and Controversy: Gastro-panic and the Protection of Parmesan .................................................................................................................. 116 4.1. Introduction ................................................................................................... 116 4.2. Contesting Parmesan ..................................................................................... 118 4.2.1. European level ........................................................................................ 123 4.2.2. Global level ............................................................................................. 126 4.3. The Counterfeiters Must Be Stopped ............................................................ 133 4.3.1. Concern ................................................................................................... 134 4.3.2. Serious consequences ............................................................................. 139 4.3.3. Real versus Fake ..................................................................................... 143 4.3.4. Consensus ............................................................................................... 147 4.3.5. Gastro-panic ............................................................................................ 150 4.4. Demythologizing the Gastro-panic................................................................ 153 4.4.1. Socio-Economic Woes ............................................................................ 154 4.4.2. Protecting Whom? .................................................................................. 159 4.4.3. (Re)affirming Security ............................................................................ 163 4.5. Conclusion ..................................................................................................... 168 5. Not Much Ado about Cheddar? Demythologizing Genericism ........................... 171 5.1. Introduction ................................................................................................... 171 5.2. The Unquestionable Genericity of Cheddar .................................................. 174 5.4. Demythologizing Genericism ........................................................................ 178 5.4.1. Uncontested in a world of contestation................................................... 178 5.4.2. Ambiguity in the EU ............................................................................... 187 5.4.3. Conflicting nature of international Codex standards .............................. 194 5.5. Gastro-silence ................................................................................................ 196 5.5.1. Cheddar: A cherished referent object in the UK? ...................................... 196 5.5.2. Tracing the de-localization of Cheddar .................................................. 199 5.5.3. Ideological divides and the state ............................................................. 203 5.5.4. Re-localization within a market context ................................................. 207 5.5.5. Worlds of Cheddar .................................................................................. 214 5.6. Conclusion ....................................................................................................

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