CODE of COLOR TABLE OF CONTENTS COLOR THEORY Color Perception The Color Wheel The Language Of Hair Color - ANATOMY The Anatomy Of Hair Hair Strand Growth Hair Strand Abundance Hair Strand Formation Hair Strand Coloration Hair Strand Condition - HAIR COLOR TECHNOLOGY Hair Color Chemical Attributes Hair Color Developer Attributes Choosing And Understanding Color Systems - THE MECHANICS OF SUCCESS The L’ANZA Healing Color Mechanics Of Success Understanding L’ANZA Healing Colors Successful Color Formulation Conducting A Patch Test Preparing The Hair For A Color Service Corrective Color Post Color Services COLOR THEORY Color Perception – The Color Wheel – The Language of Hair Color COLOR THEORY COLOR PERCEPTION The human eye interprets color in a unique way. Our perception of color is ruled by light wavelengths, and how they absorb or reflect from a surface. Our eyes are sensitive to light, so color perception depends on how individual light wavelengths react to a surface, creating visible light. Humans see hair color based on how individual light wavelengths are absorbed or reflect from each hair strand. Color Perceptions WHITE LIGHT SPECTRUM The electromagnetic spectrum of light that passes through our atmosphere is known as the visible (or white light) spectrum. The white light spectrum is a combination of all visible saturated color wavelengths the human eye and brain can distinguish. Black is a total absence of light. LIGHT WAVELENGTHS & COLOR The visible spectrum corresponds directly to individual light wavelengths, ranging from 400 to 700 nanometers (nm), and a color range of violet through dark red. Every surface absorbs, diffuses, combines and/or reflects each light wavelength, enabling the human eye and brain to perceive color. With up to a 700 nm wavelength range, dark red is longest. As red dominates all other wavelengths, the human eye is naturally drawn to red (or warmth). This is why salon Wavelength & Color guests usually notice gold and red tones. It also explains why red color seems to fade more quickly than other tones; the loss of those light wavelengths has a more dramatic visual impact. At 400 nm, violet has the shortest wavelength, and the human eye has a struggle seeing lighter levels that are cooler. Based on this simple fact, a colorist must be more “aggressive” with decolorizer, prior to applying a glaze to refine warmth. COLOR THEORY THE COLOR WHEEL As with art, hair color formulation and final results are ruled by the color wheel. We use three categories to formulate color. These categories help determine tonal value (warm or cool): Primary, Secondary and Tertiary. PRIMARY COLOR There are three primary colors on the color wheel: Warm Yellow, Cool Blue and Warm Red. Primary colors are pure and cannot be produced by combining other colors. The color wheel range then expands through the combination of two primary colors in various percentages. The only exception to this is neutral (or brown), which is a combination of all three primary colors in balanced percentages, depending on their saturation level (dark to light). SECONDARY COLOR There are three secondary colors an equal blend of two primary colors. Green = 50% Yellow + 50% Blue Violet = 50% Blue + 50% Red Orange = 50% Red + 50% Yellow TERTIARY COLOR There are six tertiary colors on the color wheel created by an equal blend Color Wheel of one primary and one secondary color. Yellow / Green = 75% Yellow + 25% Blue (Yellow + Green) Blue / Green = 75% Blue + 25% Yellow (Blue + Green) Blue / Violet = 75% Blue + 25% Red (Blue + Violet) Red / Violet = 75% Red + 25% Blue (Red + Violet) Red / Orange = 75% Red + 25% Yellow (Red + Orange) Yellow / Orange = 75% Yellow + 25% Red (Yellow + Orange) COLOR THEORY ENHANCING COLOR To intensify or magnify a color, add more of the desired tone. For example, if you want to make Red / Violet appear more red (warm)… Add red to your formula. If you want to make Blue / Green appear more green (cool)… Add green (yellow + blue) to your formula. NEUTRALIZING COLOR In the event you would like to neutralize (or counteract) a color, use the comple- mentary color located directly across the color wheel. For example, to neutralize orange, you would add blue to your formula. Visualize bringing two complementary colors to an even balance, creating neutral (balanced parts yellow, blue and red). THE LANGUAGE OF HAIR COLOR Understanding the language of hair color is the key to simplified formulation and exceptional results. There are three primary terms used when discussing hair color: Hue – This is the name of a color - red, brown, blonde…etc. Saturation – This is the amount of absorption, or depth of lightness or darkness (levels 1 through 10). Tone – This is the combination of light wavelengths that reflect from the hair strand (violet through dark red) creating color. COLOR THEORY NATURAL HAIR STRAND LEVEL & UNDERTONE As discussed earlier in this manual, hair level is determined by the saturation (or depth) of lightness and darkness. Each level of saturation in the natural hair strand reveals its melanin tone referred to as undertone. The undertone of the natural hair strand is revealed when lifting color to a higher (or lighter) level and must be considered in every color formulation. When lifting (lightening) the hair strand, the undertone is exposed at each level. As the wavelength of light shifts with each level, so does the perception of warmth. This is caused by more red and fewer violet light wavelengths reflecting from the hair strand at each level. The most dramatic example of this is the visual warmth revealed at level 7 and above. The measurement of saturation level (dark to light) remains consistent - only the tone shifts as levels change. There may, however, be a slight variation of tone at each level based on the hair strands concentration of eumelanin or pheomelanin. This phenomenon presents slight variation, but the exposed undertone remains in the same range referenced below. LEVEL & UNDERTONE UNDERTONE EXPOSED NEUTRALIZING LEVEL DESCRIPTION WHEN LIFTING BASE 10 Very Light Blonde Pale Yellow Violet 9 Light Blonde Yellow Violet 8 Medium Blonde Yellow – Orange Blue – Violet 7 Dark Blonde Orange Blue 6 Light Brown Red – Orange Blue – Green 5 Medium Brown Red Green 4 Dark Brown Red Violet Yellow – Green 3 Brown/Black Violet NONE 2 Dark Brown/Black Blue Violet NONE 1 Black Blue NONE ANATOMY The Anatomy Of Hair – Hair Strand Growth – Hair Strand Abundance – Hair Strand Formation – Hair Strand Coloration – Hair Strand Condition ANATOMY THE ANATOMY OF HAIR Humans grow hair everywhere on the body, except on the soles of our feet, the palms of our hands and our eyelids (with the exception of our eyelashes). Like skin, our hair is a stratified squamous keratinized epithelium made of multi-layered flat cells whose rope-like filaments provide structure and strength to the hair strand. Hair Strand Composition Human hair is comprised of six key components that provide overall health and manageability. 70-80 % Protein Keratinized Protein creates strength and resilience in hair 10-15% Moisture Natural moisture softens hair and adds flexibility 3-6% Lipid Oils Lipids keep hair soft and supple 1% Pigment The natural melanin pigments in hair absorb UV light and add color .05-.5% Minerals Minerals are residual elements in hair .1-.5% Carbohydrates Carbohydrates serve as the intercellular cement in hair that binds the hair strand together Hair Structure ANATOMY HAIR STRAND STRUCTURE The root of the hair shaft is located below the surface of the scalp. Once hair leaves the root, it is a compilation of fully keratinized cells. Though no longer living, these cells are bound together in three layers. The Cuticle This is the outermost layer of the hair strand and serves as a protective barrier, shielding the inner layers from environmental damage. The cuticle layer consists of overlapping transparent scale-like cells, resembling the shingles on a roof. A healthy, compact cuticle layer adds shine and luster to a hair strand. An unhealthy, damaged cuticle layer appears dull and rough. It is difficult to maintain consistent color vibrancy on hair with a damaged cuticle layer. The Cortex Consisting of approximately 90% of the hair strand, the cortex layer is the fibrous protein core that provides strength, elasticity and natural color with melanin pigment. Permanent oxidative hair color, and all other permanent salon services alter the cellular structure within in the cortex. The Medulla This is the innermost layer of the hair strand, and is not affected by salon services. Very fine and light blonde hair are usually lacking a medulla layer. Hair Structure ANATOMY HAIR STRAND GROWTH Human hair grows at an average of 1.25 centimeters (½ inch) per month, or 15 centimeters (6 inches) per year. As the hair grows, environmental influences such as heat styling or chemical alteration affect the overall health of the hair strand. For optimum service results, divide the hair strand into three sections. Proximal New Growth Closest to the scalp, the proximal new growth of the hair strand is most vulnerable to chemical aggressors. This ¼ to ½ inch of new hair strand growth reacts to our natural body heat and responds differently to hair color and other in-salon services. Hair Strand Growth Medial Mid-Lengths The medial portion of the hair strand extends beyond the proximal new growth. If present, the medial mid-lengths react differently to hair color, as there is little, to no natural body heat. Other influencer such as previous hair color services, damage from styling tools, and/or other environmental aggressors can alter hair color results in this section of the hair strand. Distal Porous Ends The distal porous ends extend past the shoulders, beyond the medial mid-lengths, and must be considered in hair color formulation.