HREE years ago, a vene- rable British company called Tootal—its stock in trade vintage-look men’s Tootal recall Tscarves and pocket squares inspired Once championed by raffish Mods in the 1960s, by its own impeccably stylish herit- age—underwent a ‘quiet relaunch’. Tootal’s paisley-print and polka-dot scarves are making Throughout the second quarter of the last century, Tootal sold quantities quite a comeback, reports Matthew Dennison of such scarves, alongside Tootal ties, which it promoted vigorously with the advertising slogan ‘Every Man Needs… Tootal Ties’. At a time when tie-wearing is in decline, and increasingly informal men’s dress nullifies Tootal’s one- time claim that it produced a tie ‘to suit every occasion from a board meeting to a boxing match’ and ‘every activity from banking to bird watching’, the current renaissance of the Tootal scarf and the company’s fortunes is partly attributable to cele- brity endorsement. Musicians such as Liam Gallagher and Paul Weller have been photographed wearing Tootal scarves as has actor Benedict Cumberbatch. Tootal itself claims that its ties and scarves, manufactured at affordable prices—and, in the case of Tootal ties, in washable, uncreasable fabrics, often striped or with small-scale geometric patterns—had a particu- lar appeal for working-class shoppers. Today, Tootal’s polka-dot and pais- ley-print scarves in traditionally masculine colours are made from fringed silk and aim at a classless Benedict Since 1991, the Tootal brand has as ‘Tootal Cloth’ and striped men’s demographic. They Cumberbatch formed part of Coats Viyella. In its shirting able to ‘defy any amount of suggest suave, pipe- is a fan of the current incarnation, scarf- and pocket- washing or sunlight’. Its Tarantulle smoking raffishness Tootal range, square-manufacturing Tootal repre- ‘quality cotton fabric for home-sewn and, at the same time, given a revamp sents a rationalisation of what was lingerie and baby-wear’ was apparently something romantic and in 2013 formerly a much larger business. The ‘preferred by women of refinement unconventional, a blend company traces its roots to a Man- the world over’. of James Bond, poetic chester textile merchant, Robert By integrating cotton spinning and poseur and 1960s Gardner, and a fledgling initia- power-loom weaving, the company Photos Stock 12/Alamy Photo; Ray Tang/Rex ShutterstockMod, a par- tive begun in 1799. maintained high levels of productivity Following the involvement alongside affordability. The formula of the Tootal family from proved successful. In the last quarter ticularly British approach to men’s 1842 onwards, on January of the 19th century, Tootal Broad- dress. 17, 1888, the company hurst Lee Co employed more than Britishness has always formed part changed its name to Tootal 5,000 people in mills in Manchester of the Tootal identity and its brand- Broad-hurst Lee Co. Early and Bolton. In time, it blossomed into In ing. An advertisement from Novem- in its history, it special- an Empire-wide, international con- the ber 1920 trumpeted: ‘Worldwide ised in cotton spinning cern, with offices and outlets in 1960s knowledge of the unequalled Tootal and manufacturing cot- Paris, New York, Mont-real, Toronto, and Value for Price brings an ever-grow- ton fabrics; later, it Cape Town, Johannesburg, Melbourne 1970s, ing demand for these highly desirable expanded into cotton- and Wellington. a Tootal products of British labour.’ Still com- based textiles created Photographs in the company scarf was a petively priced, in line with the firm’s for a variety of pur-pos- archives depict the packing room style staple for history, today’s Tootal scarves are es, from ‘Namrit of its Manchester headquarters dur- stars such as Michael manufactured in two ranges: Vintage the indelible voile’ to ing the Boer War stacked with crates Caine (above) and Made in England. a cotton-velvet marketed bound for the 14th Hussars in Cape ➢ www.countrylife.co.uk Country Life, January 20, 2016 73 Town. In 1952, the company opened ism of the Ind- lent of P. G. Wode- At one time, a factory in Tasmania. ustrial Revolu- house’s ‘Jeeves and every man did Unsurprisingly, Tootal Broadhurst tion and Victorian Wooster’ novels or indeed need Lee Co was among manufacturers bombast. the shadier world of a Tootal tie chosen by the Export Promotion Subsequently, The Italian Job’s or scarf if he Department of the Board of Trade to in the altered Charlie Croker. wanted to be exhibit at the British Industries Fair. climate of the Now, eBay and stylish. These At the 1947 fair, the company’s 1930s, plans to a clutch of vintage days, the stand at Earl’s Court featured Lystav, create a vast clothing shops main- company’s Robia and Tobralco patented dress attached ware- tain a brisk trade in scarves adorn and furnishing fabrics, Pyramid house, which Tootal ties. the necks of men’s handkerchiefs and a bright dis- would have been Thanks to the stars such as play of Tootal ties and scarves. the tallest building in Europe, failed vagaries of popular Liam Gallagher In 1898, architect Joseph Gibbons to reach completion culture and the unchanging nature (above) Sankey completed a grandiose head- More than 200 years after enter- of classic British men’s fashion, this quarters building for the company prising North Country mercer Robert heritage brand is firmly established at 56, Oxford Street in Manchester. Gardner embarked on an initiative to as it moves serenely into its third A rubicund melange of red brick and increase his textiles sales, Tootal century. terracotta, complete with columns, scarves successfully reference the Tootal scarves are available from pilasters, lantern-topped towers and company’s long history. www.tootal.co.uk (01773 607000), caryatids influenced by Michel- The look is deliberately iconic and as well as independent retailers, angelo’s ignudi, it remains a power- timeless, a mid-century idiom that such as Stuarts London W12 (020– Classic Rock Magazine/Future Publishing/Rexful Shutterstock monument to the entrepreneurial- can be interpreted variously as redo- 8735 1801 www.stuartslondon.com) 74 Country Life, January 20, 2016 www.countrylife.co.uk.