Research of Materials Science September 2013, Volume 2, Issue 3, PP.41-49 Discussion on Development of Silk Weaving Trademark Process in Shang Dynasty of China Xingmei Guo1, 2, Yiping Qiu 1† College of Textiles, Donghua University, Shanghai, 201620, P.R.China †Email: [email protected], [email protected] Abstract In the period of Shang dynasty, agriculture achieved great development; accompanied by a certain scale of mulberry silkworm industry as silk production had a relatively high technological level and complicated loom and weaving skills emerged. The governor of the Shang dynasty attached great importance to the economic status of mulberry silkworm. Though with a limited quantity of silk fabrics in Shang dynasty found in archaeology, figured silk has emerged, indicating that the weaving technology at that time has reached a certain level. Therefore, under the background at that time, people had no sense on cultivation and development of branded goods. At the earliest, only the emperor could use silk fabrics. However, the rapid development of silk industry made silk culture constantly integrate into the Chinese culture in terms of geography and society; moreover, the flourish and use of silk allowed it to shine in clothing, economy, art and culture and became an indispensable high-end article of Chinese merchants in foreign trade. Meanwhile, in the period of Shang and Zhou dynasties, the Silk Road has formed and external exchange has been enhanced. All this has laid a foundation for the prosperity of silk industry in the period of Han and Tang dynasties. Keywords: Shang Dynasty; Silk Weaving; Trademark; Process; Development 1 INTRODUCTION Silk weaving refers to the technical process of making silk fabrics with silk or chemical fiber filament as warp and weft. Silk fabrics, also called “silk” and “satin”, refer to natural silk fabrics traditionally. SYMBOLIC SILK OF ANCIENT CHINESE CULTURE In ancient times, silk referred to textiles weaved with natural silk (mainly mulberry silk, also including a small number of tussah silk and cassava silk). In the modern times, due to the expansion of raw materials of textiles, textiles with warp using artificial or natural filament fiber can be called as silk in the broad sense. Silk weaved with pure mulberry silk is especially called as “real silk”. - 41 - http://www.ivypub.org/rms/ Chinese silk is time-honored. So far, archaeological discovery has found that silk fabrics is derived from Qianshanyang, Huzhou, Zhejiang and Qingtai Village, Xingyang, Henan at the earliest, holding a history of over 5000 years. In the period of Shang dynasty, agriculture achieved great development accompanied by a certain scale of mulberry silkworm industry. The governor of the Shang dynasty attached great importance to the economic status of mulberry silkworm. Though with a limited quantity of silk fabrics in Shang dynasty found in archaeology, figured silk has emerged, indicating that the weaving technology at that time has reached a certain level. Meanwhile, in the period of Shang and Zhou dynasties, the Silk Road has formed and external exchange has been enhanced. All this has laid a foundation for the prosperity of silk industry in the period of Han and Tang dynasties. 2 DEVELOPMENT OF SHANG DYNASTY 2.1 Initial origin Shang dynasty, also called Yin and Yinshang[1-3], is the second dynasty in the Chinese history as well as the first dynasty having direct contemporaneous literary inscription in China. Shang Tang, the chief of Shang Tribe of vassal state of Xia dynasty, established Shang dynasty in Bo (Shangqiu today) after leading vassal state in Mingtiao War and destroying Xia. Then, the capital of Shang dynasty frequently changed. After its descendant Pan Geng moved it to Yin (Anyang today), it became stable. The capital in Yin lasted for 273 years. Therefore, Shang dynasty is also called as “Yin” or “Yinshang”. It experienced three major stages from BC 1600 to BC 1046. The first stage was “prior Shang”; the second stage was “early Shang” and the third stage was “late Shang”. It has been handed down for 17 generations and 13 emperors and lasted for 600 years. The last king Shang Zhou was defeated by King Wu of Zhou in Muye Battle. The excavation of ruins in Yin has proved the existence of Chinese Shang dynasty. Shang dynasty was in the golden age of slavery. Slave owner noble was the ruling class and a large number of bureaucracy and army were formed. The record of oracle and Chinese bronze inscriptions was the earliest systematic letter symbol of China found currently. In the period of Shang dynasty, developed non-central plain civilization also existed in Yangtze River basin. Shang dynasty (about 17th Centry BC - 11th Century BC[4]). As Qi got manor in Shang, his descendant Shang Tang named the dynasty established by him in Bo (Shangqiu, Henan today) as “Shang”. Then, the capital of Shang dynasty frequently changed. In the period of Pan Geng, the capital moved to Yin (Anyang, Henan). At that time, the capital became stable and lasted for 273 years here. Therefore, Shang dynasty is also called as “Yin” or “Yinshang”. It was the first dynasty following Xia dynasty in the Chinese history. Compared to Xia dynasty, it has more abundant archaeological discoveries. TERRITORY OF SHANG DYNASTY - 42 - http://www.ivypub.org/rms/ [5] TERRITORY OF SHANG DYNASTY There is no consensus on genealogy time of Shang dynasty. According to Xia Shang Zhou Chronology Project, Shang dynasty took over Xia dynasty in about BC 1556 and was destroyed by King Wu of Zhou on January 20, BC 1046 which lasted for 510 years in total. This time has been accepted in the Chinese mainland historian circle. According to the calculation of historiographer Dong Zuobin in accordance with calendar in early Republic of China, the period of Shang dynasty should be BC 1766 to BC 1111, lasting for 655 years in total. According to the calculation of historiographer Shao Yong in the Northern Song, the period of Shang dynasty should be BC 1766 to BC 1122, lasting for 645 years in total. The statement of Dong Zuobin has been adopted in Taiwan historian circle and included in Taiwan textbook [6]. During over 650 years, Shang dynasty has moved its capital for many times. Most were in the territory of Henan. Yin ruins have been found in Anyang, Henan. Cultural relics of Shang dynasty have also been found in many places such as Shangqiu, Zhengzhou, Yanshi, Wenxian, Huixian and Xinzheng. 2.1.1 Wu Ding resurgence Wu Ding was the son of Xiao Yi who was the brother of Pan Geng, i.e. nephew of Pan Geng and honored as Gaozong after his death. Therefore, he was also called as Yin Gaozong. Due to his well governance, he made great achievements in textile, medicine, traffic and astronomy etc. The flourishing occasion created by Wu Ding laid a good foundation for the development of social production in late Shang dynasty and even the prosperity of Western Zhou civilization[7][8][9]. 2.2 Territory Shih Chi·Biography of Wu Qilie recorded that the territory of Shang dynasty was from Mengmen on the left and Taihang on the right. Changshan is in its north and a great river flowed in its south[35]. The territory of Shang dynasty extended to Liaoning in the north, Hubei in the south, Shanxi in the west and Haibin in the east. Besides Hubei, Henan, Anhui, - 43 - http://www.ivypub.org/rms/ Shandong, Hebei, Shanxi, Beijing and Tianjin to the north of Yangtze River belonging to Xia and a part of Shaanxi and Jiangsu, it may also include the remaining land of Shaanxi and Jiangsu, Liaoning, Gansu, Hunan, Zhejiang and a part of Sichuan[8]. [10] TERRITORY OF SHANG DYNASTY According to the record of the Book of Shang Dynasty, “the capital has changed for eight times from Qi to Cheng Tang. Tang first resided in Bo.” There are different opinions on places of capital changed for eight times, but generally in middle and lower Yellow River and within the north and middle part of Henan and southwest Hebei. Some people considered that Zhengzhou and Yanshi might be the capital of Tang. After Xia was destroyed, the capital has moved for five times from Cheng Tang to Pan Geng. It was the first in Yin[8]. 2.3 Economy 2.3.1 Handicraft industry All were managed by the government, with refined division of labor, huge scale, large output, multiple types and high technological level. Especially, bronze ware casting technique developed to the peak and became the symbol of civilization of Shang Dynasty. Silk fabrics included gauze with plain weave, leno with skein tissue and crepe. Besides, jacquard weave technology has been matured[7] [8] [12]. - 44 - http://www.ivypub.org/rms/ 2.3.2 Costume Costumes in Shang Dynasty have at least 12 forms: [8] (I) Short costumes with crossed collar and right gusset, including ornaments. The length of the clothing reached the hip; while the length of the sleeve reached the wrist with narrow cuff, equipped with skirt with drape, broad waistband, liggings and turnup point toe. This kind of costumes was for influential officials. The portrait “is dressed with the clothing with a large collar and right gusset; the length of the clothing covers the hip; broad waistband is equipped; and the length of the skirt is over the knee. The shin is wrapped with liggings; the shoes with turnup point toe are dressed; and there is embroidery lace at the neckline, lappet edge, lower edge and cuff; as well, embroidery edge is on the waistband; in addition, the skirt is bouffant with embroidery pattern; the clothes and ornaments have fret and square pattern etc.” [8] (II) Long costumes with crossed collar and right gusset with long sleeve and narrow cuff; besides, the front opening exceeded the keen and rear opening reached the foot.