BASIC OF TEXTILES BFA(F) 202 CC 5 Directorate of Distance Education SWAMI VIVEKANAND SUBHARTI UNIVERSITY MEERUT 250005 UTTAR PRADESH SIM MOUDLE DEVELOPED BY: Reviewed by the study Material Assessment Committed Comprising: 1. Dr. N.K.Ahuja, Vice Chancellor Copyright © Publishers Grid No part of this publication which is material protected by this copyright notice may be reproduce or transmitted or utilized or store in any form or by any means now know or here in after invented, electronic, digital or mechanical. Including, photocopying, scanning, recording or by any informa- tion storage or retrieval system, without prior permission from the publisher. Information contained in this book has been published by Publishers Grid and Publishers. and has been obtained by its author from sources believed to be reliable and are correct to the best of their knowledge. However, the publisher and author shall in no event be liable for any errors, omission or damages arising out of this information and specially disclaim and implied warranties or merchantability or fitness for any particular use. Published by: Publishers Grid 4857/24, Ansari Road, Darya ganj, New Delhi-110002. Tel: 9899459633, 7982859204 E-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Printed by: A3 Digital Press Edition : 2021 CONTENTS 1. Fiber Study 5-64 2. Fiber and its Classification 65-175 3. Yarn and its Types 176-213 4. Fabric Manufacturing Techniques 214-260 5. Knitted 261-302 UNIT Fiber Study 1 NOTES FIBER STUDY STRUCTURE 1.1 Learning Objective 1.2 Introduction 1.3 Monomer, Polymer, Degree of polymerization 1.4 Student Activity 1.5 Properties of Fiber: Primary & Secondary 1.6 Summary 1.7 Glossary 1.8 Review Questions 1.1 LEARNING OBJECTIVE After studying this unit you should be able to: ● Describe the Natural Fiber. ● Explain the meaning and significance of Monomer. ● Explain the procedure of Polymerization. ● Describe the technology for Degree of Polymerization. ● Explain the Basic Textile Fiber Properties. ● Explain the meaning and significance of Properties of Textile Fibers. ● Explain the Classification of Textile Fibers. 1.2 INTRODUCTION Fabric surface properties are important because of their psychological and physical effects on a person’s appreciation of a fabric. The sensations perceived from the contact of clothing with the skin can greatly influence the overall feeling of comfort. The subjective feeling of fabric is a complex result of psychological and physiological responses of the human body and physical properties of the fabric. Fabric characteristics such as fiber type, thread linear density, thread density, weave type and yarn twist affect how a fabric feels to the touch. Surface properties also help in perception of the smoothness and crispness of the fabric. Geometrical roughness is another important factor affecting perceived softness of a fabric. Self-Instructional Material 5 Basics of Textiles In the determination of fabric handle, fabric smoothness/roughness plays an important role. This is evaluated by friction and surface unevenness measurements. The physical parameters taken into account to estimate the fabric handle are coefficient of friction and geometrical roughness of the fabric surface. These two NOTES parameters influence fabric abrasion resistance. Abrasion is basically the wearing away of any part of a material by rubbing against another surface. Textile materials become unserviceable due to abrasive wear. Abrasive wear is caused mainly due to friction between the fabric and solid objects in contact with fabric, the wearer’s body and environmental particles such as dust and grit. It is important to consider abrasion and friction characteristics from a mechanical damage point of view which subsequently results in the loss of aesthetic and physical fabric quality. ● Materials: Materials refer to the basic components of textile production, the source components of the fabric. ● Natural Fiber - These are textiles created from raw materials found in nature. While humans may alter these materials through treatments and dyes, they originate in the natural world. Examples include wool, cotton, leather, silk, jute, and even asbestos which comes from a mineral. ● Synthetic Fiber - These are textiles that are woven from man-made materials, often from a petroleum and plastic base. They include common fabrics like polyester and rayon. Natural and Synthetic Sources ● Components: From the production materials, textile producers create components of fabric. ● Fibers - This is the basic component of any textile. Fibers are small, hair-like strands of natural or synthetic material that is bound together to create yarns thick enough to weave. ● Yarn - Yarn is not just the skeins you buy in the craft store. In textile design and production, yarn refers to any long strand of fibers bound together for the purpose of weaving or knitting into cloth. ● Blend - Blends are yarns made from fibers of two or more different materials and may include both natural and synthetic fibers. 6 Self-Instructional Material ● Selvage - When weaving the cloth, manufacturers use a stronger yarn, more Fiber Study tightly woven to avoid unraveling of the finished fabric. This is usually a very narrow band that is discarded when cutting pattern pieces. NOTES Warp and Weft Strands ● Warp - In a basic weave, yarns are interlaced in a horizontal and vertical pattern. The warp includes all the yarn strands running the length of the fabric, parallel to the selvage. These are stronger and more prominent than the weft yarns. ● Weft - In a woven fabric, these strands of yarn run the width of the cloth, perpendicular to the warp strands and the selvage. These are usually weaker yarns than the warp strands. ● Yardage - This term refers to the length of any piece of fabric. Production: This section introduces terms necessary to understanding how a textile is produced from the parts of fibers and yarns. ● Weave - This refers to both the process of combining yarns by intertwining warp and weft strands as well as the pattern used to intertwine them. There are three basic patterns (plain, satin, and twill) which we will define later. Self-Instructional Material 7 Basics of Textiles Loom ● Loom - This is the device used to weave fabrics, holding the warp strands of yarn while interlacing the weft strands using a shuttle. For a manual loom, NOTES people physically move the weft strands in place, but most fabric production today uses mechanical looms. ● Beating-Up - This is the final step of loom production where the last strand is beaten into position to create a tightly woven end. ● Greige Fabric (pronounced greyzh) - This is a fabric fresh off the loom before subjected to any finishing processes of treating or dying. Weaves: As promised, we will now address the three main types of weaves, known as plain, satin, and twill. ● Plain Weave - This is the most basic weave pattern in which weft strands alternate passing over a warp strand, then under the next warp strand. 1.3 MONOMER, POLYMER, DEGREE OF POLYMERIZATION Functionally monomer plays a good role to form by the monomer. The size of polymer is also related to monomer. If many monomers add with each other they produce a big polymer. The molecular weight of 1. Polymer is forming by the adding of monomer. 2. Monomer gives the size of a polymer. 8 Self-Instructional Material 3. Molecular weight of a polymer is related to monomer. Fiber Study Monomer A monomer is a molecule that can react together with other monomer molecules NOTES to form a larger polymer chain or three-dimensional network in a process called polymerization. ● Monomer molecule: A molecule which can undergo polymerization, thereby contributing constitutional units to the essential structure of a macromolecule. Classification Monomers can be classified in many ways. They can be subdivided into two broad classes, depending on the kind of the polymer that they form. Monomers that participate in condensation polymerization have a different stoichiometry than monomers that participate in addition polymerization: This nylon is formed by condensation polymerization of two monomers, yielding water. Other classifications include: ● natural vs synthetic monomers, e.g. glycine vs caprolactam, respectively ● polar vs nonpolar monomers, e.g. vinyl acetate vs ethylene, respectively ● cyclic vs linear, e.g. ethylene oxide vs ethylene glycol, respectively The polymerization of one kind of monomer gives a homopolymer. Many polymers are copolymers, meaning that they are derived from two different monomers. In the case of condensation polymerizations, the ratio of comonomers is usually 1:1. For example, the formation of many nylons requires equal amounts of a dicarboxylic acid and diamine. In the case of addition polymerizations, the comonomer content is often only a few percent. For example, small amounts of 1-octene monomer are copolymerized with ethylene to give specialized polyethylene. Synthetic monomers ● thylene gas (H2C=CH2) is the monomer for polyethylene. ● Other modified ethylene derivatives include: ● tetrafluoroethylene (F2C=CF2) which leads to Teflon ● vinyl chloride (H2C=CHCl) which leads to PVC ● styrene (C6H5CH=CH2) which leads to polystyrene ● Epoxide monomers may be cross linked with themselves, or with the addition of a co-reactant, to form epoxy Self-Instructional Material 9 Basics of Textiles ● BPA is the monomer precursor for polycarbonate ● Terephthalic acid is a comonomer that, with ethylene glycol, forms polyethylene terephthalate. NOTES ● Dimethylsilicon