Secrets of Syria’s Jewish Cuisine y ^ 7 \o o p a Dweck, author of the cookbook Aromas of Aleppo, is a member of the tightly-knit Syrian Jewish L y / > / community in the United States that hails from Aleppo, a city in the north of Syria near the Turkish border. (*_^/ Raised in Brooklyn, Dweck lives in Deal, the exclusive New Jersey town where many Syrian Jews have settled. Moment editor Nadine Epstein visits Dweck at her home, where over kaak sweetened with anise seed, they discuss how Aleppo became “the pearl of the Arab kitchen” and the symbolic foods of the Aleppian Rosh Hashanah meal. Why is food from Aleppo unique? Were there any differences between a pinch of this and lean forward and say Throughout the centuries of Ottoman Jewish and Arab cooking in Aleppo? “Ahhh, let’s go to Loehmann’s.” I panicked. rule, the city was at the crossroads of In Judaism, we don’t mix meat with milk, I didn’t want to lose this tradition. key trade routes. The grandest Silk Road so where Arabs would use clarified butter, caravans traveled through, and it had the we would use oil. Otherwise, it is the same. Are Syrian Shabbat foods different? largest souks. Aleppo’s people, therefore, I was invited to a breakfast with Imad When I was growing up I never heard of had access to exotic foods such as the Moustapha, Syria’s envoy to the United challah. We don’t use it. Instead we use 12 pistachio nuts that they used in baklava States, in Brooklyn in 2008, and he told loaves of Syrian flat bread representing the instead of walnuts. In addition, the city me that his mother verified that all the 12 tribes. was known as “the queen of the meshi.” recipes in my book were authentic. He also Meshi means stuffed vegetables in Arabic. told me that Bashar Assad, the president of What is the Rosh Hashanah “Seder?” Because meat used to be very expensive, it Syria, had requested a signed copy! Its origins go back to the Talmud (Harayot was ground up and mixed with rice—that’s 12 a) where Rabbi Abaye says that people 0 called kashu—and stuffed into zucchini, Why does food mean so much to you? should eat foods that grow in abundance 1 tomatoes and grape leaves. Food is one of the glues that holds my at the time of the New Year, symbolizing 2 o community together. When we light CLo growth in prosperity. We use a large flat fc Does one flavor define Aleppian cuisine? the Shabbat candles and smell the plate with smaller plates to hold the different UJ Aleppo’s cuisine is known for its liberal use kibbeh hamdha (lemon-mint broth with symbolic foods. They include sugar-dipped cr o3 o of spices. But the distinguishing flavor is mixed vegetables and Syrian meatballs) apples, dates and lamb’s head. Most of X. z tamarind, a fruit that grows in tropical areas. it nourishes more than our bodies; it o these foods are eaten by Aleppian Jews 0 CO< Redolent of apricots and dates, tamarind nourishes our souls. during the evening feast of Rosh Hashanah z imparts a tangy-sour flavor. It’s used as a because of linguistic similarities between uuz O'3 base for sauces, a condiment, a soft drink Why did you write a cookbook? the names of these foods and various words CO flavoring, a sweetmeat and a folk remedy When I was young, I would go to my that correspond to the wishes of the Jewish 1 £ for ailing intestines, livers and kidneys. The mother and say I need a recipe. Like most people for the coming year. Special blessings C3 O word tamarind is derived from the Arabic ethnic cooks, she couldn’t give specific o are said before each of these items is eaten. X CL tam r hindi, meaning “Indian date.” amounts. She’d say a pinch of that and The full meal follows the ceremony. 82 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2010 ATTENTION The Aleppian Symbolic Foods for Rosh Hashanah WRITERS! Lamb’s Head: Aleppian Jews traditionally eat to cut off evildoers from harming the Jewish from the meat of the lamb’s head to symbolize nation. Aleppian Jews make ejjeh b’kerrateh (leek that they will be leaders rather than followers. The fritters) to commemorate this concept. meat is also a reminder of the ram that Abraham sacrificed instead of his son Isaac. Aleppians today Swiss Chard: The Arabic word silleq is similar place a cooked, whole sheep’s head on the table or to the Hebrew word salek, which means “to they prepare muhah (brains in olive oil and lemon) remove” or “throw out.” Again, Aleppian Jews eat or lissan w’zbeeb (spiced tongue with raisin sauce) Swiss chard in the hope that G-d will remove the to symbolize the lamb’s head. community’s enemies from its midst. The dish of choice for Swiss chard is silleq b’lahmeh—Swiss Dates: The Hebrew word for date, tamar, is chard stewed with meat. similar to the Hebrew word for “to cease”—tam. The hope here is that G-d will ensure our enemies Gourd: In Hebrew this vegetable is called will cease harassing us. kara, which is closely akin to the Hebrew karaa, which means “to rip or tear.” A blessing Pomegranate: This wonderful fruit inspires is made, asking G-d to tear up any oppressive us to ask G-d to grant us merit and goodwill as decrees that prevail in any place that Jews dwell. bountiful as the fruit’s numerous juicy, ruby- Aleppian Jews prepare the gourd as a candied hued seeds, which symbolize Judaism’s 613 sweet, usually flavored with rose water. commandments. Black-Eyed Peas: The Hebrew word for these Apples: The primary symbol for a sweet year beans is rubiah, which is similar to the Arabic in all Jewish communities is an apple dipped word for “to increase”—mb. The black-eyed peas, in something sweet. Aleppian Jews dip their therefore, symbolize wealth and plentitude and apples in sugar. increasing one’s merits. The traditional dish served is lubieh b’lahmeh—black-eyed peas with veal. Leek: The Arabic and Hebrew words for “leek,” kerrateh and karti, respectively, resemble the New Fruit: Exotic fruits like cherimoya, starfruit, Hebrew word ikaret, which means, “to cut off.” prickly pear, rambutan, mangosteen, jackfruit and Leek symbolizes the idea that we are asking G-d dragon fruit are among those often chosen. ieek Fritters E jje h b’kerrateh is featured on the dinner table during Rosh Hashanah. The smooth, savory notes of the sauteed leeks are balanced with eggs, imparting a simple but elegant flavor. 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 pound leeks, chopped (white and light green parts) 1 teaspoon kosher salt 6 eggs, beaten 1 teaspoon allspice 1 teaspoon cinnamon (optional) 1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper or 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper (optional) 1. In a medium skillet, heat two tablespoons of the vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Add the leeks and saute for two to three minutes, or until soft. Add the salt. 2. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the leeks, eggs, allspice and, if desired, cinnamon and Aleppo pepper to make batter. Mix well. 3. Heat the remaining one cup vegetable oil in a skillet over medium heat. When the oil sizzles upon contact with a droplet of water, drop 1 tablespoon of the batter into the pan. Slightly flatten the mound of batter with the back of a spoon. Continue adding as many mounds of the batter as the skillet will allow. Fry for 2 minutes, or until golden, turning once. Drain the fritters on paper towels. Repeat this process with the remaining batter, and if necessary, add more oil. Yield: 4 to 6 servings.