THE BUCCELLATI EMPIRE The family that shaped Italian jewellery history DR.HARTLEY’S CABINET Patrick Ian Hartley’s thought- provoking works scratch & BOUTIQUE AN ODISSEY IN JEWELLERY How jewellery 1st Prize: A trip is seen and to ITALY perceived THE italian JEWELLERY star SHINES ALL OVER THE WORLD SUCCESS OF ITALIAN JEWELLERY HAS BEEN BUILT UP OVER TIME THANKS TO THE ABILITY TO REINVENT ITSELF AND IMPROVE, ACHIEVING THE HIGHEST LEVELS IN THE INTERNATIONAL MARKET On the cover: Jewels by DML ArtWithoos Director Giuseppe Spoto Photographer Hans JCK Las Vegas / booth B5305 ■ Phillipgavriel.com ■ Tel +1 212-382-3340 PGavriel_Vioro USA_spread_430x310mm_#3_final.indd All Pages 4/29/14 11:20 AM adv: studioruth.com adv: VICENZAORO SPRING, HALL G - BOOTH 1653 www.jjewels.it - Scilla collection. 430x305JJVIOROSPRING.indd 1 29/04/14 14:22 stroilioro.com JENNIFER MISSONI, ACTRESS JOIN US at LUXURY ELITE ENCLAVE booth LUXEE1 12 Editorial by Corrado Facco, Managing Director 14 Scratch & Boutique 16 Cover Story DML: the Quest For Perfection ı 9 20 ı World Report 34 Classicism & Innovation 40 An Odissey in jewellery 44 Dr. Hartley’s Cabinet america 2014 vo+ 54 Journey Into The Buccellati Empire 70 Julia Krahn Rebel with a cause 90 Dossier China Who is dictating the rules 100 The Boutique Show 107 Trendvision Jewellery+ Forecasting 118 Banca Popolare Di Vicenza ı 10 ı vo+ america 2014 vo+ 24 46 92 106 Phillip Gavriel Still life Aaron Basha Vianna Brazil Crivelli Short story 93 108 26 60 Stroili Moodboard Lenti Villasco Fashion Swinging Stars Samra Jewellery The end of the world 96 Moodboard 112 30 72 An Unexpected Journey Auratam Amen Fashion Karizia The VO+Alphabet 100 114 Felicia Design Bapalal 32 82 Le Sibille Still life 102 116 Aaron Shum Test tube BlueWhite Group Boccadamo MASTHEAD Editorial Director ROBERTO ROSSI GANDOLFI Publisher DIEGO VALISI Editor ARIANNA L.B. PINTON [email protected] Senior Editor MARCO CRESCI Associate Editors MATTEO GUIZZARDI, LUCIO MAZZI Editor in Chief ROBERTO ROSSI GANDOLFI Creative Director DIDIER FALZONE Fashion Editor ROSSANA PASSALACQUA READY Graphic Design: Elena Scaccabarozzi, Giulia Signorotto ı Fashion Ex. Producer: Massimo Busato ı Fashion Ass. Producer: Martina Kirkham 13 12 ı ı Text in english: Thomas Malvica, Kate Mitchell, FOR NEW Doris Urban, Gemma Webber, Kathryn Mcconnachie, Robert Coates CONTRIBUTORS Stefano Campo Antico, Alba Cappellieri, CHALLENGES Luana Carcano, Oskar Cecere, Riccardo Linarello, Anita Sciacca, Massimo Corrado Facco, Managing Director - Fiera di Vicenza SpA Siragusa, Sixty-Nine, Emilio Tini Advertising MILANO FASHION MEDIA Corso Colombo, 9 - 20144 Milano T. 0039 02 58153201 [email protected] vo+ america 2014 vo+ vo+ america 2014 vo+ Dear Readers, ambassador, promoting and spreading Italian know- Vegas will play a strategic role. On stage at this edition Advertising Manager: SERAFINA Isabella MIANO how around the globe with the help of its editorial will be VICENZAORO Italian Club, a travelling [email protected] I am delighted to present VO+ America, which products. Like many segments of Made-in-Italy luxury show concept devised by Fiera di Vicenza to promote tel. 0039 02 58153211 includes a special edition dedicated to the great however, jewelry is also facing a new internationalization Italian gold and jewelry manufacture around the American Continent of the historic VIORO period to meet the challenges resulting from a shift in world with the presence of over 130 companies that Printed in Italy. ISSN 1827-2878 International Magazine, launched by Fiera di the global economy's gravity center towards the USA, will be exhibiting their products to the most qualified VO+ Magazine is printed by Vicenza way back in 1984. the BRIC countries, the Middle East and Asia Pacific. international buyers in a market of absolute importance Rumor Industrie Grafiche S.p.A., In view of this, Fiera di Vicenza has positioned itself for Italian jewelry, such as the US is. TRENDVISION Via dell'Economia 127, 36100 Vicenza tel. +39 0444 961566 [email protected] in the front line of change with VICENZAORO The Jewellery+Forecasting, Fiera di Vicenza's research center Registrazione del Tribunale di Vicenza Vioro become VO+, here in its American issue, is Boutique Show, a new concept created from an in-depth that investigates and identifies new trends in the jewelry N. 492 del 28/11/1984 therefore the new name of the magazine, which refers study of new global jewelry production and distribution world, will also be in attendance at the JCK Show. Set to the nickname that all the players in the sector have scenarios, that will meet the most dynamic needs of the up in a specific area, chests, overflowing not only with Edited in Italy and abroad by always known it as, with the tiny yet significant addition industry's international demand and lead to a better jewels but also with metaphorical items representing FIERA DI VICENZA SPA of a "+" to highlight our effort in making the magazine interaction with supply. the coming trends and the center's many publications, (all rights reserved) Vicenza Fiera, via Dell'Oreficeria, 16 an even more authoritative and exclusive interpreter It is a new strategic development model in the panorama will provide inspiration. 36100 Vicenza Italy of the jewelry sector. VO+ is celebrating its 30th of world trade fair shows. The aims are two: to facilitate Fiera di Vicenza's renewed presence on the American anniversary this year, an important occasion that we matching between production and distribution by market will therefore come accompanied by the new President: MATTEO MARZOTTO have decided to honor with a restyling and a special creating authentic and distinctive Communities of version of VO+ America with the aim of offering the Managing Director: CORRADO FACCO edition to pay homage to an editorial product that has companies able to intercept the most sophisticated international traders quality content and information © 2014, all rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any written the history of Italian and international gold needs of global demand, and to inform international on the very best of Italian-made jewelry in view of form using electronic systems without the consent of the publishers. Articles, photographs and drawings: reproduction is prohibited © All rights regarding and jewelry. demand of the current and future trends within the an increasingly consistent cross-fertilization between reproduction in any form whatsoever, including the internet, which is not expressly for personal use or for academic purposes, are reserved. For any other type of Nowadays Italian gold and jewelry products are sector. jewelry, fashion, accessories and design. use of material, authorisation from the Fiera di Vicenza is required. Any material sent to the editorial staff, even if it is not published, will not be returned. Personal recognized worldwide as an expression of craftsmanship Fiera di Vicenza's international road show also has details sent by postcard or questionnaires contained in the magazine may be used for market surveys, and creativity, manufacturing quality, innovation and an extremely full program and the participation of Corrado Facco sales promotions or forwarded to editorial products as samples, according to the provisions of law N. design, and Fiera di Vicenza is proud to be its world VICENZAORO at the prestigious JCK Show in Las Managing Director, Fiera di Vicenza SpA 196/2003. Scratch BOUTIQUE Promotion Published on the cover of VO+ America Magazine - Valid until June 2nd, 2014 VICENZAORO Italian Club @ JCK Las Vegas 2014 May 30TH – JUNE 2ND, 2014 Vestiamo Diamanti The “Scratch and Boutique” promotion is reserved to all qualified registered attendees of the 2014 JCK Show in Las Vegas. However, ONLY QUALIFIED REGISTERED BUYERS are eligible to win a free trip to Italy. → All qualified registered of a trip to Italy on the occasion after scratching the gold spot, → Travel policy for buyers hosted buyers who will find the words of VICENZAORO Winter The may go to the VICENZAORO by Fiera di Vicenza. Fiera di “YOU WON!” after scratching Boutique Show 2015. There are Italian Club desk. Here they will Vicenza will extend FULL the gold spot, may go to the 3 free trips to be won. receive a gift (items offered by the BOARD hospitality to one buyer VICENZAORO Italian Club → All qualified registered attendees Italian exhibitors). Welcome gifts per company. desk. Here they will receive a who will find the words “YOU will be given out on a first-come, → The prize is personal and not voucher valid for the reservation WON A WELCOME GIFT!” first-served basis. transferable to any other person. ı 14 ı THE PRIZE INCLUDES FLIGHT One round-trip economy class ticket from the buyer’s HOTEL ACCOMODATION country of origin to Venice and transfer service to Vicenza. In a single, twin or double room with breakfast included. There Upgraded tickets can be issued only upon request and the price is a maximum stay of four nights. Extra nights, or nights not difference will be at the buyer’s expense. For any special requests, included in the given range of dates, will be charged to the our travel agency will be available for personalized itineraries. buyer. Upgraded rooms can be assigned, if available; additional However, the buyer will be responsible for the difference in price. costs will be charged to the buyer. No changes can be made directly with the airline. The airline will be chosen taking in consideration economic criteria and OTHER AMENITIES alliances established by Fiera di Vicenza. Reservations will be Shuttle service to and from the Venice airport and the hotel, accepted at least 1 month before the departure for international entry pass to the exhibition grounds and side Events. vo+ america 2014 vo+ flights and 20 days before for flights within the EU.