I n th e tim e o f M a rie A n to in e tt e . The Lace Diction ary POCKET E D ITION I N CLU DING HI ST OR I C A N D CO M M E RC IA L E M E N A T R S , T CH IC L E E F E T RMS , NATIV AND OR IGN . ‘ ki ‘ a ” B Y R C . CLI FFOR D 3 N E W Y O R K C L F F O R D L A T O B S E R I W N , PU LI H S 1 E AS T T WE NTY - E I G HT H S T R E E T o r t 1913 ffor awton . C py igh , , Cli d L I NTRODUCTION N PREPA RI NG thi s book it has been our ob j ect to give not on ly a complete diction ary o f rm hi s r n mm ial to so ar te s , to ic a d co e rc , but range th e matt er that on e m ay be able to an alyz e an iece o f lace and wi h li le ifficult ive it it s y p , t tt d y, g r r l s ifi n p ope c as catio . ' I t i s un fo rtun ate that lace te rm s are ve ry con fu sing becau se so frequen tly coin e d arbit rarily an d w ithou t any reason an d the list m ultiplie d beyon d all c alculation by adj ective an d g eogr aphical te rm s an d r i thei r fo eign equ valen ts . Thousan ds o f year s be fore th e Ch ristian Era n n T F n h r plai ets we re u se d . h e re c te rm fo n et was l e h n k e r n am nte i as c ll in fi t . W e wor d o o r e d t w a e d Italy lacis . We defi n e lace as an open - wo rk fabric an d di vi e th e subj ect in to eight m ain varieties ' d A rawn - w or k a m an i ulation o f th e h ea s ( ) D , p t r d o f a woven mesh by drawing or tying to form pat t e rn s . B arn ed Wor k em roi e in or arn in ( ) D , b d r g d g u on a mesh rovi in th us th e a te n . Run work p , p d g p t r n h l fi a i n may go u der t is c assi c t o . C Cu t - w or k formin a at e n b cu tin ( ) , g p t r y t g r h f ri away pa ts o f t e ab c . D N e le - n Th e m ak in o f h l ( ) ed p oi t . g t e ace di rect with the n eedle . 5 ‘ 1 Q 1 01 fl 6 Th e Lace Di cti onary B o A lai in or in erweavin . (E) bbi n . p t g t g F Kn tt ( ) o ed w or k . (G) Cr oche t wor k (H ) M achi ne lace. Th s arie ies a r s ill fu h i i n d ea e e v t e t rt e r d v de d , a ch i n l l s sifi an n l z divi s o i s prope r y c a ed d a a y ed . - D RAWN WORK . ’ Pnn to Ti ra to ( I t ) ; Op us Ti ratn m ; Fil Ti re (A ) The re are thre e offshoots o f dr awn - work ' lain rawn - wo k embroi e re awn - work an d p d r , d d d r , awn - work wi h colo effec s : m roi er ed Sim d r t r t E b d , le D awn T on er . p r , d D ARNED LACE . Op us Fi latorimn ( I t ) ; Fil et Br odé ( B) The re are two offshoot s o f d arn ed lace s imple darn ing on a simple groun d o f coun t able s i ch es an d arn e work o un coun a l e ch a ac e r . t t , d d f t b r t oin nté cou n a l n i hi P t Co ( t b e da r ed s t tc ng) . Spider Wo rk ( Op us A ran eum or Ou r/rag es M as ches ) . n i r M n A n u Clu y Gu pu e ( od e r tiq e ) . - CUT WORK . Op us S ci ss um (It ) ; P a n to Tagliato P oin t Coupe. ( C ) Cut - wo rk prope r i s simply th e form whe rein th e d esign is obtai n ed by cut ting away pa rt o f h e fa r t b ic . I n tr odu cti on 7 - NEEDLE POI NT . ' ’ Pu n to i n A co Pain t a l aiguill e (D ) There are practi cally t en off shoot s o f - n ee le oin t . e icella is th e e in n in an evolu ion d p R t b g g , t o f cut - work ; but th e mak ing ' o f lace with the n eedle alon e in e en en t o f a cu t - ou t ack rou n fabri c , d p d b g d , i A ia an d en wi h n et l c began with Pun to n r de d t a e . lla reek r om an . Retice , G o R a n to i n A r ia P Pun t a Reli evo Poi n t de M edi ci s o ( , ais e t l t F o a R d Pun o Tag i a o a g li mi . Veni ce . G i n d R s P in Pt r os Po t an o e o t. T ape Lace . ’ D A nglete rre ( combination of N eedle an d Bob Alen n in co . b ) B ru s A r n ll s el s . ge te a . A n A li n rge tan . pp qué o N et . BOBBI N . D e n tell e an Fus eau M erl etti F us clli e I M rle tti a Pi ombi ni ( t ) . ( E) We fi x seventeen varie ties or off shoots o f h in ran h n r m a n i f in la s the t e bobb b c . U de a g y g g s diff e ren ce be tween n eedle - poin t an d bobbin i s ve ry clea r the n eedle - oin ein a se ie s o f loo s while , p t b g r p , th e bobbin is always a da rn e d - lik e or plait e d m esh h n wit out tyi g. l e l n im le Bo in . A o . C u y. S p bb D Appliqué on Net . uchesse . T ape L ace . Binche . Lille . T rolle Kan t . Black Silk . M altese . Valen c ien n es . Blond e Silk ; M echlin . H on iton . r s l lai B us e s . P ted . ° 8 Th e La ce Di cti onary T KNO TED . Pun to a Gr opp o ( F ) Knotted lace is eith e r o f the mac ramé or in h ta tt g off s oot . M a ram c é . T atti ng. T CROCH E . ro h e is a b ran h h s ( G) C c t ch t at has off s oot . rm fi n The te is sign i ca t . H M h n La ( ) ac i e ce . DI CTIONARY - A P N T A c . a an for nee e o n . co. U o IN o It li dl p i t r n n o o a e AFI COT. French nam e fO an i strume t t p lish r is d o portion s f lace. G an s for nee e - o n AGU'A . PUNTO DE A U'A . Sp i h dl p i t. ’ - E G E. re n for nee e o n . AIGUILL . POINT A L AI UILL F ch dl p i t G . ro n ce o f a oas ra was in th e m e ALA OAS P vi Al g , B zil, , iddl r o f h ne een en r th e c e cen e r of th e o n ace t e Ni t th C tu y, hi f t b bbi l in dustry . Th e w ork wa s cotton an d rath e r coar se .