The Journal of Dress History Volume 5, Issue 3, Late Summer 2021 Front Cover Image: Detail, Yūzen Pattern Dyeing on Silk, a Textile Design and Color Sample for Girls’ Kimono, Early Showa period, circa 1926–1945, © The Private Collection of Keiko Okamoto, Tokyo, Japan. Yūzen dyeing techniques produce one of the most popular and precious Japanese kimono textiles. But when the word is expressed in English, it means both “hand– painted dyeing on textiles” and “look–alike styles of prints.” It is because the word, yūzen, was used for various new dyeing methods developed in the late nineteenth century during the Japanese Industrial Revolution. These new methods were aimed at multiple reproduction of hand–painted yūzen dyeing that was originally developed in the seventeenth century. Moreover, the new meaning was used by respective artisans and merchants in the Kyoto kimono textile industry, which brought further complications to the definition. In the 1950s, when yūzen dyed textiles were being introduced into the mainstream kimono business, one industry researcher concluded that it was too complicated to define the word, yūzen dyeing. The Journal of Dress History Volume 5, Issue 3, Late Summer 2021 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Associate Editor Georgina Chappell Associate Editor Michael Ballard Ramsey Associate Editor Benjamin Linley Wild Associate Editor Valerio Zanetti Exhibition Reviews Editor Emma Treleaven Editorial Assistant Thomas Walter Dietz Editorial Assistant Fleur Dingen Editorial Assistant Abigail Jubb Published By The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org/journal The Journal of Dress History Volume 5, Issue 3, Late Summer 2021 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org/journal Copyright © 2021 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) Accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The ADH supports and promotes the study and professional practice of the history of dress, textiles, and accessories of all cultures and regions of the world, from before classical antiquity to the present day. The ADH is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. Founded in 2016, The Journal of Dress History is circulated solely for educational purposes and is non–commercial: journal issues are not for sale or profit. The Journal of Dress History is run by a team of unpaid volunteers and is published on an Open Access platform distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is cited properly. Complete issues of The Journal of Dress History are freely available at www.dresshistorians.org/journal. The Editorial Board of The Journal of Dress History encourages the unsolicited submission for publication consideration of academic articles. Articles are welcomed from students, early career researchers, independent scholars, and established professionals. If you would like to discuss an idea for an article or book review, please contact [email protected]. If you would like to discuss an idea for an exhibition review, please contact [email protected]. The Journal of Dress History is designed on European standard A4 size paper (8.27 x 11.69 inches) and is intended to be read electronically, in consideration of the environment. The graphic design utilises the font, Baskerville, a serif typeface designed in 1754 by John Baskerville (1706–1775) in Birmingham, England. The logo of The Association of Dress Historians is a monogram of three letters, ADH, interwoven to represent the interdisciplinarity of our membership, committed to scholarship in dress history. The logo was designed in 2017 by Janet Mayo, longstanding ADH member. The Journal of Dress History Volume 5, Issue 3, Late Summer 2021 The Advisory Board The Editorial Board of The Journal of Dress History gratefully acknowledges the support and expertise of The Advisory Board, the membership of which follows, in alphabetical order. Kevin Almond, The University of Leeds, Leeds, England Anne Bissonnette, The University of Alberta, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada Suchitra Choudhury, The University of Glasgow, Glasgow, Scotland Daniel James Cole, New York University, New York, United States Edwina Ehrman, The Victoria and Albert Museum, London, England Vicki Karaminas, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand Ned Lazaro, Historic Deerfield, Deerfield, Massachusetts, United States Elizabeth Castaldo Lundén, Stockholm University, Stockholm, Sweden Jane Malcolm–Davies, The University of Copenhagen, Copenhagen, Denmark Janet Mayo, Independent Scholar, Bristol, England Sanda Miller, Southampton Solent University, Southampton, England Amy L. Montz, University of Southern Indiana, Evansville, Indiana, United States Anna Reynolds, Royal Collection Trust, London, England Aileen Ribeiro, The Courtauld Institute of Art, London England Georgina Ripley, National Museums Scotland, Edinburgh, Scotland Annamarie V. Sandecki, Tiffany & Co., New York, New York, United States Joana Sequeira, The University of Porto, Porto, Portugal Katarina Nina Simončič, The University of Zagreb, Zagreb, Croatia Ruby Sood, National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi, India Anne M. Toewe, University of Northern Colorado, Greeley, Colorado, United States Kirsten Toftegaard, Designmuseum Danmark, Copenhagen, Denmark Igor Uria, Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum, Getaria, Spain Gillian Vogelsang–Eastwood, Textile Research Centre, Leiden, Netherlands 1 The Journal of Dress History Volume 5, Issue 3, Late Summer 2021 Contents Articles The Fainting Queen Esther and the Corset in Mannerist and Baroque Italian Art Nirit Ben–Aryeh Debby 8 The Falda–Pantalón Scandal: A History of the Skirt–Trouser Fashion in Madrid, Spain, 1908–1911 Nancy J. Membrez 34 An Account of the Uniform of the Storekeeper–General’s Department in Great Britain and on Foreign Service in the Netherlands, 1815 Ben Townsend 101 Book Reviews Fashion Criticism: An Anthology Francesca Granata Reviewed by Ludovica Mucci 137 Bond Girls: Body, Fashion and Gender Monica Germanà Reviewed by Sofia Nadjimov 140 2 The Journal of Dress History Volume 5, Issue 3, Late Summer 2021 MeXicana Fashions: Politics, Self–Adornment, and Identity Construction Aída Hurtado and Norma E. Cantú Reviewed by Douglas C. Nance 144 Libertine Fashion: Sexual Freedom, Rebellion, and Style Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas Reviewed by Alice Naylor 148 Chinese Dress: From the Qing Dynasty to the Present Day Valery Garrett Reviewed by Laura Oland 151 Fashion: Treasures of the Museum of Fine Arts Boston Allison Taylor Reviewed by Jade Papa 154 The Toga and Roman Identity Ursula Rothe Reviewed by Edīte Parute 157 A Fashionable Century: Textile Artistry and Commerce in Late Qing Rachel Silberstein Reviewed by Helen Persson 161 Fashion and Masculinity in Renaissance Florence Elizabeth Currie Reviewed by Alison Petrisek 165 Fur: A Sensitive History Jonathan Faiers Reviewed by Carson Poplin 168 The Wig: A Hairbrained History Luigi Amara Reviewed by Betty Ramé 171 3 The Journal of Dress History Volume 5, Issue 3, Late Summer 2021 Reading Fashion in Art Ingrid E. Mida Reviewed by Anna Reynolds 174 Busks, Basques and Brush–Braid: British Dressmaking in the 18th and 19th Centuries Pam Inder Reviewed by Jennifer Rothrock 177 Doing Research in Fashion and Dress: An Introduction to Qualitative Methods Yuniya Kawamura Reviewed by Suzanne Rowland 181 Ravishing: The Rose in Fashion Amy de la Haye Reviewed by Ellen Sampson 184 100 Years of Fashion Cally Blackman Reviewed by Elyse Sardo 187 Looking at Textiles: A Guide to Technical Terms Elena Phipps Reviewed by Jenny Sargeant 191 The Way We Wed: A Global History of Wedding Fashion Kimberly Chrisman–Campbell Reviewed by Carole Schinck 194 A Passion for Fashion: 300 Years of Style at Blenheim Palace Antonia Keaney Reviewed by Stephanie Sporn 198 4 The Journal of Dress History Volume 5, Issue 3, Late Summer 2021 Hat: Origins, Language, Style Drake Stutesman Reviewed by Kate Stephenson 202 Roman Girlhood and the Fashioning of Femininity Lauren Caldwell Reviewed by Hayley Stoneham 205 Medieval Art and the Look of Silent Film: The Influence on Costume and Set Design Lori Ann Sigler Reviewed by Wendy Talley 208 African Apparel: Threaded Transformations across the 20th Century Mackenzie Moon Ryan Reviewed by Benjamin Wild 211 Mend! A Refashioning Manual and Manifesto Kate Sekules Reviewed by Valerie Wilson Trower 214 Exhibition Reviews OCEANISTA: Fashion and the Sea Curated by Maria McKinney–Valentin and Marie Ørstedholm The Maritime Museum of Denmark, Elsinore, Denmark Reviewed by Louise Kjærgaard Depner 219 Pinocchio: In the Costumes of Massimo Cantini Parrini from the Movie of Matteo Garrone Curated by Staff at and for The Textile Museum, Prato, Italy Reviewed by Bruna Niccoli 223 5 The Journal of Dress History Volume 5, Issue 3, Late Summer 2021 Additional Sections Recent PhD Theses in Dress History 227 A Guide to Online Sources for Dress History Research 231 The Editorial Board 260 The Advisory Board 264 ADH Membership, Conferences, and Calls For Papers 273 6 The Journal of Dress History Volume 5, Issue 3, Late Summer 2021 Welcome Dear ADH Members and Friends, I hope you enjoy reading this issue of