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Uni International 300 N. Zeeb Road Ann Arbor, Ml 48106 8417892 Hu, Kap-Sum COMPARISON OF ANTHROPOMETRIC MEASUREMENTS OF ORIENTAL AND CAUCASIAN FEMALES FOR SIZING SYSTEMS The University of North Carolina at Greensboro PH.D. 1984 University Microfilms International 300 N. Zeeb Road, Ann Arbor, Ml 48106 Copyright 1984 by Hu, Kap-Sum All Rights Reserved PLEASE NOTE: In all cases this material has been filmed in the best possible way from the available copy. Problems encountered with this document have been identified here with a check mark V . 1. Glossy photographs or pages 2. Colored illustrations, paper or print 3. Photographs with dark background S* 4. Illustrations are poor copy 5. Pages with black marks, not original copy 6. Print shows through as there is text on both sides of page 7. Indistinct, broken or small print on several pages ^ 8. Print exceeds margin requirements 9. Tightly bound copy with print lost in spine 10. Computer printout pages with indistinct print 11. Page(s) lacking when material received, and not available from school or author. 12. Page(s) seem to be missing in numbering only as text follows. 13. Two pages numbered . Text follows. 14. Curling and wrinkled pages 15. Other University Microfilms International COMPARISON OF ANTHROPOMETRIC MEASUREMENTS OF ORIENTAL AND CAUCASIAN FEMALES FOR SIZING SYSTEMS Kap-Sum Hu A Dissertation Submitted to the Faculty of the Graduate School at The University of North Carolina at Greensboro in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy Greensboro 198^ Approved by Dissertation Adviser APPROVAL PAGE This Dissertation has been approved by the following committee of the Faculty of the Graduate School at the University of North Carolina at Greensboro Dissertation Adviser // Committee Members IduULclc. Date of Acceptance by Committee Date of Final Examination ii © 1984 KAP-SUM HU All Rights Reserved HU, KAP-SUM, Ph.D. Comparison of Anthropometric Measurements of Oriental and Caucasian Females for Sizing Systems. (1984) Directed by Billie G. Oakland, Ph.D. 148 pp. This study made a comparison between anthropometric body measurements of Caucasian and Oriental females for the purpose of establishing a sizing range for apparel. Anthropometric measurements were compared using a selected sample of 100 Oriental women and 970 Caucasian women. The Oriental data were collected during the spring, 1981, in Japan, while the Caucasian data were collected from November 1976 to February, 1977, in the United States by the Quartermaster Corps of the United States Army. Significant differences were found between the Oriental female and the Caucasian female body measurements on 32 variables of height-related measurements, surface measure­ ments, and circumferences. The Caucasian measurements were significantly larger than the Oriental measurements at the .001 level, except for the head, neck, wrist, and hand cir­ cumferences which were significantly smaller. The standard deviations indicated greater variations for the Caucasians than for the Orientals in all three categories of measure­ ment. The greatest amount of variability was noted in the height-related measurements. This comparison between Oriental women and Caucasian women's body measurements addressed an important research consideration in anthropometric sizing development and body variations by ethnic group. Such information is important to manufacturers who produce garments for export or who import garments made by Oriental sizing systems. ACKNOWLEDGMENT S The author wishes to express sincere appreciation to Dr. Billie G. Oakland, dissertation adviser, and to the following members of her doctoral committee for their advice, support, and understanding throughout this study: Miss Lavina M. Franck and Dr. Mary G. Maccini, of the Department of Clothing and Textiles, School of Home Eco­ nomics: Dr. Joan Gregory, of the Department of Art, and Dr. Vincent M. Foote, Professor and Chairman of the School of Design at North Carolina State University. Appreciation is extended also to Dr. Barbara N. Clawson, Professor of Home Economics Education, for her advice on the research proposal for this study. Miss Robin Panneten1s help with the statistical analysis of the data was invaluable. Most importantly, the author thanks her family for their continued encouragement. iii TABLE OF CONTENTS Page APPROVAL PAGE ii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS iii LIST OF TABLES. vi LIST OF FIGURES vii CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION 1 II. REVIEW OF LITERATURE 4 History of Anthropometry 4 History of Patterns 7 Pattern-making Problems 9 III. METHODOLOGY 11 Procedure 11 IV. STATISTICAL ANALYSIS AND FINDINGS 41 Analysis Comparing the Samples on Selected Variables 41 Statistical Findings 54 Application of Findings to Apparel Pattern Development 56 V. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION 61 Recommendations for Future Research. ... 62 BIBLIOGRAPHY 63 APPENDIX A Landmark 66 APPENDIX B Standard Line 67 APPENDIX C Figure of the Body Measurements for Height-related Measurements, Breadth and Depth Measurements, Surface Measure­ ments, and Circumferences 69 iv TABLE OF CONTENTS (continued) Page APPENDIX D Illustration 74 APPENDIX E English and Japanese Designation for the Anthropometric Measurements 76 APPENDIX F List of Patterns 79 APPENDIX G Table of Statistical Values for U.S. Army Women—19 77 128 v LIST OF TABLES Page Table 1 Mean and Standard Deviation of Oriental Female Sample: 47 Variables 42 2 Mean and Standard Deviation of Caucasian Female Sample: 69 Variables 45 3 Table of Means and Standard Deviations for Significant Body Measurements by Race 50 4 Drafting Measurements Derived from Oriental Women's Anthropometric Data 58 vi LIST OF FIGURES Page FIGURE 18 Height-related Measurement 18 1. Stature 18 2. Cervical Height 18 3. Shoulder Height 19 4. Axilla Height 19 5. Suprasternale Height ..... 20 6. Bustpoint Height 20 7. Waist Height 21 8. Iliospinale Anterius Height 21 9. Crotch Height 22 10. Tibial Height 22 Breadth and Depth Measurement 2 3 11. Neck-Base Breadth 23 12. Neck-Base Depth 2 3 13- Biacromial Breadth 24 14. Chest Breadth 24 15. Waist Breadth 25 16. Hip Breadth 25 17. Armscye Breadth 26 18. Nipples Breadth 26 19. Bust ^epth 2 7 20. Waist Depth 27 21. Hip Breadth 28 Surface Measurement 28 22. Waist Back Length 28 23. Overall Length 29 24. Depth of Armscye 29 25. Shoulder to Waist Length, "back 30 26. Shoulder to Waist Length, front 30 27. Waist Front Length 31 28. Acromion to Elbow 31 29. Sleeve Length 32 30. Cross Shoulder Length, back 32 31. Shoulder Length 33 32. Interscye Back 33 33* Interscye Front 34 34. Crotch Length, "back through the front .... 34 Circumference 35 35* Bust Circumference . 35 36. Waist Circumference 35 37• Hip Circumference 36 38. Neck Circumference 36 39- Armscye Circumference 37 40. Biceps Circumference 37 41. Elbow Circumference 38 42. Wrist Circumference 38 vii LIST OF FIGURES(continued) Page Figure ^3 • Upper Thigh Circumference 39 UM, Crotch Depth 39 4-5• Head Circumference ^0 k6. Hand Circumference ^0 ^7. Foot Length viii 1 CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION In the 20th century, patterns have been developed for the manufacture of clothing and personal equipment on a large scale. Apparel patterns vary among nations and populations, due to variations in bone structure as well as cultural dif­ ferences. For this reason, the design of clothing requires a knowledge of the human body and its dimensions. Apparel patterns are based on scientific measurements. The measurement process, involving the multiple interrelation­ ships of the body's dimensions, is difficult, and conse­ quently, the data base for anthropometric