b567497 Ch05.qxd 2/21/03 8:38 AM Page 106 5 Exploring Hong Kong Most people think of Hong Kong as, primarily, an exotic shopping destination. In the past decade, however, Hong Kong has revved up its sightseeing potential, opening new city parks and revamping older ones, constructing community art centers, expanding muse- ums or developing new ones, and redesigning organized sightseeing tours to reflect the territory’s changing demographics. Although a few attractions have closed since the handover, new ones are in the works. On the other hand, if all you want to do is hike or lie on the beach, you can do that, too. According to the Hong Kong Tourist Board, North Americans spend an average of 3.3 nights in Hong Kong. Although a week’s stay would be better if you really want to do Hong Kong justice, you can see quite a bit of the city, and its outlying islands, in 3 to 5 days, especially if you’re on the go from dawn until past dusk, since the city is so compact and its transportation is so efficient. Although the SAR is compact and easy to navigate, it makes sense to divide the city into sections when planning your sightseeing. The information on museums, parks, markets, and other attractions, therefore, is subdivided in this chapter according to area, making it easier to coordinate sightseeing and dining plans. 1 Hong Kong’s Top Attractions The four activities I would recommend to every visitor to the SAR are: Ride the Star Ferry across the harbor; take the Peak tram to the top of Victoria Peak; ride one of the rickety old trams on Hong Kong Island; and, if you have the time, take a ferry to one of the outlying islands. Nothing can beat the thrill of these four experi- ences, or give you a better insight into the essence of Hong Kong and its people. What’s more, they’re all incredibly inexpensive. THE STAR FERRIES The stars of the Hong Kong show, of course, are the Star Ferries, green-and-white vessels that have been carrying passengers back and forth between Kowloon and Hong Kong Island since 1898. At only b567497 Ch05.qxd 2/21/03 8:38 AM Page 107 HONG KONG’S TOP ATTRACTIONS 107 HK$1.70 (US22¢) for the regular, lower-deck fare, it’s one of the cheapest — and yet most dramatic — 5-minute rides in the world. The entire trip from loading pier to unloading pier takes about 7 minutes in all; there are approximately 400 crossings a day. (For tips on using the Star Ferry, see “Getting Around,” in chapter 2.) For longer boat rides, see the “Boat Tours” section later in this chapter. VICTORIA PEAK At 392m (1,308 ft.), Victoria Peak is Hong Kong Island’s tallest hill, which, obviously, lends itself to offer spectacular views of the city and surrounding areas (if possible, go on a crystal-clear day). It’s always been one of Hong Kong’s most exclusive places to live, since, in addition to the views, the peak is typically cooler than the swel- tering city below. (Even just a one-bedroom apartment on The Peak goes for a purported HK$50,000/US$6,500 a month!) More than a century ago, the rich reached the peak after a 3-hour trip in sedan chairs, transported to the top by coolies. Then, in 1888, the Peak tram began operations, cutting the journey from a grueling 3 hours to a mere 8 minutes. In 1989, the older, cast-iron green funicular cars with mahogany seats were replaced by new, modern cars imported from Switzerland, which increased the passenger load from 72 to 120 people. The easiest way to reach the Peak Tram Station, located on Garden Road, is to take the no. 15C open-top shuttle bus that oper- ates between the tram terminal and the Star Ferry in Central. (After you exit from the Star Ferry, turn left; shuttle buses depart from a traffic island located between the parking garage and City Hall.) Shuttle buses cost HK$3.20 (US40¢) and run every 10 to 20 min- utes between 10am and 11:45pm. Otherwise, it’s about a 10-minute walk to Garden Road and the tram station. Alternatively, you can take Minibus no. 15 from in front of the Star Ferry in Central directly to the top of Victoria Peak, but then you’d miss the tram unless you opt to take it down. Tips The Best Peek of The Peak For the best view when riding the Peak tram up to Victoria Peak, try to get a seat at the front, on the right side of the tram. b567497 Ch05.qxd 2/21/03 8:38 AM Page 108 108 CHAPTER 5 . EXPLORING HONG KONG As for the trams, they depart every 15 minutes between 7am and midnight. The tram climbs almost vertically for 8 minutes before reaching the top of the peak — don’t worry, there’s never been an accident in its entire 100-odd years of operation. One-way tickets for the Peak tram cost HK$20 (US$2.60) for adults, HK$7 (US90¢) for seniors, and HK$5 (US65¢) for children. Round-trip tickets cost HK$30 (US$3.90), HK$14 (US$1.80), and HK$9 (US$1.15), respectively. Upon reaching The Peak, you’ll find your- self at the very modern Peak Tower, designed by British architect Terry Farrell, which looks like a Chinese cooking wok. Head straight for the viewing terrace on Level 5, where you’ll be privileged to one of the world’s most breathtaking views, with the skyscrapers of Central, the boats plying Victoria Harbour, Kowloon, and the many hills of the New Territories undulating in the background. Of the three attractions located in Peak Tower, the most well known around the world is probably Madame Tussaud’s, Level 2, Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., Victoria Peak (& 852/3128 8288; www.madame-tussauds.com.hk), with more than 100 life-size wax figures of celebrities, politicians, and historical figures. In addition to the usual figures — Marilyn Monroe, the Beatles, Winston Churchill, victims in a medieval torture chamber — there are also local heroes like Jackie Chan, Michelle Yeoh, and Bruce Lee. Be sure to bring your camera. It’s open daily from 11am to 8pm and costs HK$75 (US$9.75) for adults and HK$50 (US$6.50) for seniors and children. You’ll probably spend about 30 minutes here. Another well-known attraction is Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium, located on Level 3 of the Peak Tower (& 852/2849 0698; www.thepeak.com.hk/tower/ripleys.html). The 26th Ripley’s museum to open worldwide, it contains oddities (and replicas of odd- ities) collected by Robert L. Ripley on visits to 198 countries over 55 years, including a shrunken head from Ecuador, torture items from around the world, a two-headed calf, and models of the world’s tallest and fattest men. Be forewarned that some of the items are purely grotesque, or, at best, out of date in a more socially correct world. Still, human nature being what it is, probably everyone wants to visit one of these museums at least once, and children, of course, are fascinated. You probably won’t be able to tear them away in less than an hour. It’s open daily from 9am to 10pm and costs HK$75 (US$9.75) for adults and HK$50 (US$6.50) for seniors and children. Peak Explorer, Level 4 of the Peak Tower (& 852/2849 0866; www.thepeak.com.hk/tower/explorer.html), is a 36-seat motion- simulator theater that features changing, 8-minute fast-paced films b567497 Ch05.qxd 2/21/03 8:38 AM Page 109 HONG KONG’S TOP ATTRACTIONS 109 and seats that move, jerk, roll, and rock in accordance to the action on the screen. It’s almost like being onboard the roller coaster, race- car, motorbike, or whatever is being shown, and is definitely not for those with motion sickness. Admission here is HK$45 (US$5.85) for adults and HK$32 (US$4.15) for children. It’s open Monday to Friday from noon to 10pm and Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 10pm. If you wish, you can buy a ticket for all three attractions, which costs HK$130 (US$17) for adults and HK$92 (US$12) for seniors and children. Frankly, I consider your time in Hong Kong better spent elsewhere (since you can find these attractions in many other places throughout the world), though if you have older children in tow, you may not have a choice. When you’re finished in Peak Tower, exit it via Level 4. Across the street is the Peak Galleria, a three-story complex with shops, restau- rants, a children’s playground, and a viewing terrace. But the best thing to do atop Victoria Peak, in my opinion, is to take a walk. One of my favorite walks in all of Hong Kong is the hour- long circular hike on Lugard Road and Harlech Road, both located just a stone’s throw from the Peak tram terminus. Mainly a footpath overhung with banyan trees and passing lush vegetation, it snakes along the side of the cliff, offering great views of the Central District below, the harbor, Kowloon, and then Aberdeen and the outlying islands on the other side. You will also pass Victoria Peak mansions.