Stitching the Silver Screen Dressmaking Patterns, Hollywood, and the Second World War. Master’s thesis 45 Credits Poppy Strange Thesis Advisor: Mikael Alm: Semester: Spring 2021 Date of Submission: 2021.05.17 Date of Defence: 31st May/1st June 2021 HISTORISKA INSTITUTIONEN Contents List of Tables List of Figure Abstract Acknowledgements Abbreviations Introduction 1 Chapter 1. Emulation and the consumer dream- 3 A theoretical and methodological outline Thorstein Veblen and Emulation 4 Walter Benjamin and the Reproduction of Art 6 Colin Campbell and the Creation of Fantasy and Desire through Objects 10 Material Cultural Methodology 13 Chapter 2. Dressmaking Patterns, Hollywood and the Second World War- 20 A historical perspective Hollywood Pattern Company and its Origins 20 Dressmaking patterns historical development 24 Hollywood, The Studio System and the Star System 25 The Second World War and Wartime Restrictions 29 Chapter 3. Dressmaking Patterns as objects of desire 35 Brochures and Catalogues 35 Batchelor’s Six Steps: Idea, Materiality and Manufacturing 41 Pattern Design and Usage 45 Chapter 4. Star gazing and stitching the silver screen 54 The impact of war on the glamour of clothes 54 Patterns and Films: The changing relationship 74 Shattering the dream 84 Conclusion 93 Glossary 96 Appendix 1 Origins of Patterns Examined 99 Appendix 2 Pattern 864 – A modern garment from a 1930’s pattern 105 Appendix 3 Number of Patterns by Actress 106 Sources and Literature 108 Published Sources (Patterns) 108 Literature 109 List of Tables: Table 1 Overview of sources examined. Hollywood Pattern Company, COPA Archive, author’s own collection, see appendix 1. Table 2 Number of patterns giving fabric suggestions, by year. Hollywood Pattern Company, COPA Archive, author’s own collection, see appendix 1. Table 3 Patterns suggesting silk fabrics. Hollywood Pattern Company, COPA Archive, author’s own collection, see appendix 1. Table 4 Silk types suggested (out of 41 patterns suggesting silk). Hollywood Pattern Company, COPA Archive, author’s own collection, see appendix 1. Table 5 Patterns suggesting woollen fabrics. Hollywood Pattern Company, COPA Archive, author’s own collection, see appendix 1. Table 6 Woollen Types Suggested (out of 37 patterns suggesting woollen fabrics) Hollywood Pattern Company, COPA Archive, author’s own collection, see appendix 1. Table 7 Patterns suggesting cotton fabrics. Hollywood Pattern Company, COPA Archive, author’s own collection, see appendix 1. Table 8 Cotton types suggested (out of 47 patterns suggesting cotton fabrics). Hollywood Pattern Company, COPA Archive, author’s own collection, see appendix 1. Table 9 Patterns suggesting Rayon fabrics. Hollywood Pattern Company, COPA Archive, author’s own collection, see appendix 1. Table 10 Rayon types suggested (out of 44 patterns suggesting Rayon fabrics). Hollywood Pattern Company, COPA Archive, author’s own collection, see appendix 1. Table 11 Hem allowance exceeding L85 limits. Hollywood Pattern Company, COPA Archive, author’s own collection, see appendix 1. Table 12 Swing or width exceeding L85 limits. Hollywood Pattern Company, COPA Archive, author’s own collection, see appendix 1. Table 13 Findings. Hollywood Pattern Company, COPA Archive, author’s own collection, see appendix 1. Table 14 Number of associated patterns by Film Studio. Hollywood Pattern Company, COPA Archive, author’s own collection, see appendix 1. Table 15 Number of Patterns associated with Stars by Year. Hollywood Pattern Company, COPA Archive, author’s own collection, see appendix 1. List of figures. Figure 1: Front and Back Envelope. Hollywood Pattern Company, One piece dress, Phyllis Brooks, RKO Radio Year 1940, Pattern No. 425. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1940.57.URI. Figure 2: Design Options. Hollywood Pattern Company, One piece dress, June Havoc, RKO Radio, Year 1942. Pattern No. 889. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1942.121.BWS. Figure 3: Film Star Photograph. Hollywood Pattern Company, One piece dress, June Havoc RKO Radio, Year 1942.Pattern No. 889. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1942.121.BWS. Figure 4: Pattern Size and Price. Hollywood Pattern Company, One piece dress, June Havoc RKO Radio, Year 1942.Pattern No. 889. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1942.121.BWS. Figure 5: Colour Branding Stripe. Hollywood Pattern Company, One piece dress, June Havoc RKO Radio, Year 1942. Pattern No. 889. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1942.121.BWS. Figure 6: Pattern Pieces and Garment Description. Hollywood Pattern Company, One piece dress, June Havoc RKO Radio, Year 1942. Pattern No. 889. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1942.121.BWS. Figure 7: Back View Sketch. Hollywood Pattern Company, One piece dress, June Havoc RKO Radio, Year 1942. Pattern No. 889. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1942.121.BWS. Figure 8: Fabric Suggestions. Hollywood Pattern Company, One piece dress, June Havoc RKO Radio, Year 1942. Pattern No. 889. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1942.121.BWS. Figure 9: Fabric Requirements. Hollywood Pattern Company, One piece dress, June Havoc RKO Radio, Year 1942. Pattern No. 889. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1942.121.BWS. Figure 10: Findings List. Hollywood Pattern Company, One piece dress, June Havoc RKO Radio, Year 1942. Pattern No. 889. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1942.121.BWS. Figure 11: “Typical of ‘Before and After’ Style Change Conforming To WPB Limitation Order L85.” Women’s Wear Daily, April 8, 1942 in Mower and Pedersen 2013, pg 40. Figure 12: Pre L-85 Order Styling. Hollywood Pattern Company, One piece dress, Joan Fontaine, RKO Radio, Year 1939, Pattern No. 1862. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1939.124.BWS. Figure 13: Post L-85 Order Styling. Hollywood Pattern Company, One piece dress, Maureen O’Hara, RKO Radio, Year 1941, Pattern No. 1142. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1941.2.JSE Figure 14: Fabric Comparisons With and Without Nap. Hollywood Pattern Company, Waistcoat and Skirt, Priscilla Lane, Warner Bros, Year 1941, Pattern No. 654. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1941.141.BWS. Figure 15: Fabric Suggestions. Hollywood Pattern Company, Jacket, Slacks and Bra Top, Wendy Barrie, RKO Radio, Year 1942, Pattern No. 635, Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1942.254.URI. Figure 16: The impact of the L-85 Order of Fabric Suggestions and Requirements. Hollywood Pattern Company, Skirt, Blouse and Bolero Simple Sew, Betty Rhodes, Paramount, Year 1943 Pattern No. 1211. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1943.114.BWS. Figure 17: The Impact of the L-85 Order on Fabric Suggestions and Requirements. Hollywood Pattern Company, Skirt, Blouse and Skirt, Susanna Foster, Paramount, Year 1943 Pattern No. 1121. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1943.1.JSE. Figure 18: Front Cover Image. Hollywood Pattern Company, One piece dress and slip, Ellen Drew, Warner Bros, Year 1942 Pattern No. 846. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1942.3.JSE. Figure 19: Hems and Hem allowances. Hollywood Pattern Company, One piece dress and slip, Ellen Drew, Warner Bros, Year 1942 Pattern No. 846. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1942.3.JSE. Figure 20: “Authorized Measurements for Daytime Dress.” Women’s Wear Daily, April 8, 1942, “Authorized Measurements for Evening Dress.” Women’s Wear Daily, April 8, 1942 in Mower and Pedersen 2013, pg 41 Figure 21: Pattern Branding. Hollywood Pattern Company, Lucille Ball, RKO Radio, Year 1939, One piece dress and bolero, Pattern No. 1773. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1939.98.BWS. Figure 22: Pattern Branding Changes 1944. Hollywood Pattern Company, Hollywood Pattern, Year 1944, Red Star Branding, Pattern No. 1345. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1944.93.KLS. Figure 23: Pattern Branding Changes 1945. Hollywood Pattern Company, Hollywood Pattern, Year 1945, Black Calligraphy Branding, Pattern No. 1583. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1945.72.KLS. Figure 24: Incorrectly dated Pattern. Hollywood Pattern Company, Ann Miller, RKO Radio, Petticoat or Slip, Year 1945, Pattern No. 1753. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1945.37.JSE. Figure 25: Foreign Hollywood Actresses. Hollywood Pattern Company, Brenda Marshall, Warner Bros, One piece dress and jacket, Year 1941, Pattern No. 658, held in authors possession. Figure 26: Foreign Hollywood Actresses. Hollywood Pattern Company, Danielle Darrieux, Universal, Year 1939, Coat, Pattern No. 1906. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1939.129.BWS. Figure 27: Foreign Hollywood Actresses. Hollywood Pattern Company, Franciska Gaal, Paramount, One piece frock, Year 1939, Pattern No. 1774. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1939.103.URI. Figure 28: L-85 Order Style Changes. Hollywood Pattern Company, Shirley Patterson, Columbia Pictures, Two Piece Suit, Year 1942, Pattern No. 1024. Commercial Pattern Archive, archive no. 1942.138.BWS. Figure 29: Two-tone Dresses. Hollywood Pattern Company, Wendy Barrie, RKO Radio, One piece dress, front envelope, Year 1942, Pattern No. 873, held in authors possession. Figure 30: Two-tone Dresses and Fabric Consumption. Hollywood Pattern Company, Wendy Barrie, RKO Radio, One piece dress, Year 1942, Pattern No. 873, held in authors possession. Abstract: The 1930s and 1940s were a time of political and social upheaval, focused mainly on the events of the Second World War. As a result of this global event many aspects of women’s lives in particular were affected. No aspect of life was unaffected, from industrial production to clothing