NINTH EDITION Harry’s Cosmeticology Full Title Can Be Purchased by Members at www.chemical-publishing.com for a 20% Discount using code "CPC 20" or viewed in an on-line database at www.chemicalpublishing.org NOT FOR DISTRIBUTION Harry’s Cosmeticology 9th Edition © Chemical Publishing Co., Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United Stated Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Publisher, Chemical Publishing Company, through email at info@chemical- publishing.com. The publisher, editors and authors make no representations or warranties with re- VSHFWWRWKHDFFXUDF\RUFRPSOHWHQHVVRIWKHFRQWHQWVRIWKLVZRUNDQGVSHFL¿FDOO\ GLVFODLPDOOZDUUDQWLHVLQFOXGLQJZLWKRXWOLPLWDWLRQZDUUDQWLHVRI¿WQHVVIRUDSDU- ticular purpose. Volume One - ISBN: 978-0-8206-01762 Volume Two - ISBN: 978-0-8206-01779 Volume Three - ISBN: 978-0-8206-01786 eBook - ISBN: 978-0-8206-01793 First Edition Chemical Publishing Company www.chemical-publishing.com Printed in the United States of America About the Editor-in-Chief Meyer R. Rosen CChem, CPC, CChE, CFEI, DABFE, DABFET, FAIC Meyer R. Rosen is President of Interactive Consulting, Inc. (www.chemicalcon- VXOWFRP +HLVD7KRXJKW/HDGHUDQGH[SHUWLQWKH¿HOGRI7HFKQLFDO0DUNHWLQJ and multi-industry Technology Transfer Applications including, but not limited to: cosmetics and personal care, applied rheology, applied surface and interfacial chemistry, polymers, organosilicones, professional editing and custom preparation of Mind-Maps® for the organization and presentation of complex information. Mr. Rosen is a Chartered Chemist and Fellow of the Royal Society of Chemistry (London); a Fellow of the American Institute of Chemists and both D1DWLRQDOO\&HUWL¿HG3URIHVVLRQDO&KHPLVWDQG&HUWL¿HG3URIHVVLRQDO&KHPLFDO Engineer. He is a member of the U.S. Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) & the American Institute of Chemical Engineers. Meyer serves as an Advisor for David Smith, Executive Director of the SCC Advisory Committee. He is also Editor for U.S. & Canada and Editor-in-Chief for North and Latin America for Euro Cos- metics Magazine in Germany. Mr. Rosen is Editor of the Delivery System Hand- book for Personal Care and Cosmetic Products and Editor-in-Chief of Harry’s Cosmeticology, 9 th Ed. 0H\HU VHUYHG IRU VL[ \HDUV DV WKH &KLHI 6FLHQWL¿F$GYLVRUDQG'LUHFWRURI Technical Programming for United Business Media’s (UBM) HBA Technical Conferences. He ZDV a former Director of the American Institute of Chemists, past Vice President of the Association of Consulting Chemists and has served on the 6FLHQWLILF$GYLVRU\ %RDUG RI 6XSSO\ 6LGH :HVW(DVW 9LUJR 3XEOLFDWLRQV 0URosen is also the Founder, Organizer and co-moderator for HBA’s Annual Interna-WLRQDO6DIHW\5HJXODWRU\DQG&HUWLILFDWLRQ6\PSRVLD III Packaging Part 14 Manufacture of Part 13 Cosmetics Preface Sustainability Marketing & Part 12 Fragrances EcoResponsibility In the Packaging Design Skin Part 1 Beginning... Testing Part 11 Molecular Hair VOLUME 3 Biology Fundamentals NanoCosmetics Part 10 Dealing with NutriCosmetics Part 9 Change Delivery USA & EU Systems Part 8 Russia Achieving Sensory Regulatory Saudi Part 7 Global Characterization Market Requirements Arabia Access China Formulating Part 6 Part 2 Canada & Europe NanoMaterials Harry’s Intellectual Property Anti-Aging Cosmeticology Part 5 9th Ed. & Pathways Trade Secrets Anti-Aging VOLUME 1 Structure, Function Sufactants Part Skin & Anti-Aging VOLUME 1 Structure, Function Sufactants Part Skin 3.1 & Moisturizers BioChemistry Bio Actives Botanicals Global Classification Anti-Oxidants Scale Skin Skin of Whiteners Color: Dermatologic Organosilicones Part Skin Disorders: Marine VOLUME 2 3.2 Ingredients Ingredients Part 4 Asian The Ethnic Cellulite Part 3 Substrates Skin Reducers Corrective Retinoids Cosmeceuticals Preservatives Part Hair Peptides 3.3 MicroRNA Part Nails Amino 3.4 Acids Part Nose Barrier 3.5 Strengtheners Part Mouth Cytokines, 3.6 Growth Factors & Part Lips Stem Cells 3.7 AHA's & Part Feminine Beyond 3.8 Rejuvenation Harry's Cosmeticology 9th Edition PART 4.3.4 AMINO ACIDS Author Bruce W. Gesslein Technical Manager, Specialty and Personal Care Ajinomoto North America, Inc. 400 Kelby St, Fort Lee NJ 07024 USA ABSTRACT Everyone ages. Everyone wants to stop aging. But is that really what we want? In this chapter, the author asserts that we want to accumulate as many healthy years as possible but still maintain the appearance of youth and vigor. Medical science has extended our life span and useful years dra- matically by addressing disease and overall health issues. Cosmetic and Personal Care science can help mitigate the appearance of aging and increase one’s overall attractiveness. There are twenty “standard” proteinogenic amino acids that combine in unique ways to make peptides, proteins, enzymes, muscle, hair, skin, and organs. These twenty amino acids are also converted in the body through various metabolic path- ways to produce useful substances. Amino acids topically applied exhibit useful properties such as acting as antioxidants, humectants, and free radical scavengers. They have also been shown to increase collagen production. Amino acids can also be derivatized “ex-somes” to produce cosmetically useful materials such as emol- OLHQWVKXPHFWDQWVVXUIDFWDQWVPRLVWXUL]HUVDQGSURWHFWDQWVWKDWDUHEHQH¿FLDOLQ cosmetic formulation to address the appearance of aging. In this chapter we dis- FXVVWKHYDULRXVDPLQRDFLGVWKHLUGHULYDWLYHVDQGWKHEHQH¿WVWRVNLQDQGKDLU formulation from a formulator’s perspective. It is our intention that this detailed chapter covering the structure and behavior of amino acids and their derivatives, on both skin and hair, will provide formula- tors and marketers with new pathways to create desired consumer products and to H[SORUHWKLVLQWHUHVWLQJ¿HOGIXUWKHU 976 www.chemical-publishing.com Harry's Cosmeticology 9th Edition 977 4.3.4.1 OVERVIEW OF AMINO ACIDS TABLE OF CONTENTS 4.3.4.1 Overview of Amino Acids 977 a. Production 977 b. Properties 979 4.3.4.2 The Appearance of Aging of Skin and Hair 985 a. Skin 986 b. Wrinkling 988 c. Elasticity 989 d. Clarity 990 e. Hydration 991 f. UV Damage 995 4.3.4.3 Hair 995 a. Breakage 995 b. Dullness 998 c. Elasticity 999 d. Roughness 1000 4.3.4.4 Formulation for Skin Care 1003 a. Cleansers 1003 b. Moisturizers 1008 c. Serums 1010 4.3.4.5 Hair Care 1011 a. Shampoos 1011 b. Conditioners 1013 Conclusion 1014 References 1015 Glossary 1016 4.3.4.1 OVERVIEW OF AMINO ACIDS a. Production Amino acids are the building blocks of life. An amino acid is an organic compound that contains both an amino (NH-) functionality and a carboxylic acid (COOH) IXQFWLRQDOLW\7KHUHDUHWZHQW\VWDQGDUGDPLQRDFLGVWKDWFRPELQHLQVSHFL¿FZD\V to produce peptides, polypeptides, proteins, enzymes, muscles, and skin. These twenty amino acids are divided into nonessential amino acids and essential amino acids. The nonessential amino acids are those that we produce within our bodies LQVXI¿FLHQWDPRXQWVIRUOLIHDQGKHDOWK7KHVHDUHJO\FLQH/F\VWHLQH/DODQLQH www.chemical-publishing.com Harry's Cosmeticology 9th Edition 4.3.4.1 OVERVIEW OF AMINO ACIDS 978 L-tyrosine, L-arginine, L-proline, L-aspartic acid, L-serine, L-glutamic acid, L- aspargine, and L-glutamine. The essential amino acids are just as important for life and health as the nonessential amino acids, but we do not make them or at least do QRWPDNHVXI¿FLHQWDPRXQWVRIWKHPLQRXUERGLHVWRVXSSRUWOLIHDQGKHDOWK$F- cordingly, we must obtain these amino acids from the food chain or more recently, from supplementation. The essential amino acids are L-mehtionine, L-tryptophan, L-threonine, L-phenylalanine, L-valine, L-lysine, L-leucine, L-histidine, L-isoleu- cine. Beyond these twenty biological important amino acids there are more than 500 other amino acids that are not useful biologically. There are also a myriad of GHULYDWLYHVWKDWDUHGHVLJQHGIRUVSHFL¿FXVHIXOIXQFWLRQVVXFKDVFOHDQVLQJPRLV- turizing, lubrication, etc. The Fermentation Method ³,Q3URIHVVRU.LQXH,NHGDGLVFRYHUHGJOXWDPLFDFLGDVDÀDYRUFRPSR- nent of seaweed and soy hydolysates. After neutralization with caustic soda, he LVRODWHG0RQRVRGLXP*OXWDPDWH7KLVZDVQRWRQO\WKHELUWKRIWKH¿UVWLQGXVWUL- al scale amino acid production from natural raw material hydrolysis but also the fundamental process for the isolation of other amino acids.” 1Most of the amino acids that are used in cosmetic and personal care products now are produced by a fermentation process using natural materials. In the fermentation method of amino acid production, microorganisms convert nutrients to various components necessary to themselves. Raw materials such as sugars and syrups are added to the microorganism culture and the proliferating microorganisms produce amino acids. Enzymes play a key role to degrade and synthesize substances. Consecu- tive reactions by 10 to 30 kinds of enzymes are involved in the fermentation process that produces the various high-purity amino acids. ,WLVQHFHVVDU\WRVFUHHQWKHPLFURRUJDQLVPVWR¿QGWKHRQHWKDWSURGXFHVWKH JUHDWHVWDPRXQWRIWKHVSHFL¿FDPLQRDFLGVRXJKW6LQFHRQHJUDPRIQDWXUDOVRLO contains on the order of 100 million microorganisms,2 it is possible to pick out the useful one. There are a number of methods to select the microorganisms including mixing soil and water in a blender and then centrifuging the mixer.