X INTERNATIONAL FASHION CONFERENCE UNIVERSITY OF NAVARRA Fashion On The Move: Rethinking Design URGELLÉS MOLINA, ALICIA; XTORREGROSA PUIG, MARTA; SÁNCHEZ-BLANCO, CRISTINA (COORDS.) 2 3 Fashion On The Move: Índice Rethinking Design. X International Fashion Conference. University of Navarra. Fashion On The Move: Rethinking Design 2 3 Fashion On The Move: X International Fashion Conference Índice Rethinking Design. X International Fashion Conference. University of Alicia Urgellés Molina Navarra. Marta Torregrosa Puig; Cristina Sánchez-Blanco (Coords.) ISBN: 978-84-8081-532-1 Servicio de publicaciones de la Universidad de Navarra Pamplona, 2016 4 5 Fashion On The Move: Índice Rethinking Design. X International Fashion Conference. University of Navarra. Fashion On The Move: 4 5 Fashion On The Move: Rethinking Design Índice Rethinking Design. X International Fashion Conference. University of ENGLISH Navarra. INDEX DIGITAL TRANSFORMATION OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY: A RESEARCH FRAMEWORK 11 Verónica Arribas Barreras LIFESTYLE BRANDING: AN EXPLORATORY STUDY IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY 19 Paloma Díaz Soloaga, Teresa Pérez del Castillo RE-THINKING THE PLACE OF SEMIOTICS IN FASHION STUDIES 31 Daria Mikerina FACTORS AFFECTING CLOTHES FASHION TRENDS: A MODEL PROPOSAL (Between 1940-2007) 41 Fatma KOÇ, Beyhan PAMUK THE VIEWS OF FREDERIC BURNABY, ONE OF TRAVELERS OF 19th CENTURY ABOUT CLOTHES OF TURKS: “ON HORSEBACK THROUGH ASIA MINOR” 59 6 Meyrem ARGA SAHİNOĞLU, Saliha OZELMAS KAHYA 7 Fashion On The Move: Índice Rethinking Design. MEN AND THE CLOTHING. WROCŁAW FASHION PROJECT X International Fashion Ewa Banaszak, Debopriyo Banerjee, Robert Florkowski, Agnieszka Ginter, Patrycja Karpińska, Conference. University of 67 Konrad Kocjan, Tyll Krueger, Sudipta Saha, Dima Volchenkov Navarra. REFLECTION OF SOCIO-CULTURAL EXPERIENCES OF FASHION DESIGN STUDENTS TO THEIR COLLECTIONS 81 Emine KOCA, Esra SEÇİM MEASURING THE EFFECTS OF DIFFERENT TEXTILE PRODUCTS ON HUMAN SKIN WITH NON- INVASIVE METHODS 95 Şeyda AKARSU, Ruşen AKMAN, Fatma ÖZTÜRK, Celalettin ÇELEBİ THE EMERGING ROLE OF ONLINE FASHION BLOGS IN BUSINESS NETWORK DYNAMICS: TRENDS, ISSUES AND RESEARCH AGENDA 109 Simone Guercini, Pedro Mir, Andrea Runfola, Rodrigo Sala CHALLENGES AND OPPORTUNITIES OF FASHION DESIGNERS FOR SOCIAL COMMERCE IN TURKEY: THE CASE OF “MÜ DESIGN” 121 Şakir Özüdoğru CHANGING LANDSCAPE OF FASHION DESIGN EDUCATION: ENHANCING ENGAGEMENT IN LEARNING THROUGH ADOPTION OF ONLINE RESOURCES AND WELL-CRAFTED ACTIVITIES 131 Christine Foong Yoke Kheng THE CASE STUDY METHODOLOGY AS AN EDUCATIONAL TOOL FOR FASHION BUSINESS MANAGEMENT 145 Verónica Arribas Barreras, Isabel García Hiljding, Lourdes Susaeta AN ANALYSIS ON RESPONSIBLE CONSUMPTION PATTERNS OF FASHION STUDENTS-WITH THE CASE OF TURKEY Şölen Kipöz, Esra Enes 159 FASHION MAGAZINES AS AN ETHNO-ICONOGRAPHIC DOCUMENT. AN APPLIED STUDY INTO THE ORIGIN AND EVOLUTION OF ETHNOGRAPHIC FASHION EDITORIALS IN VOGUE Paloma Díaz Soloaga , Ana Llorente Villasevil 181 3D PRINTED GARMENTS, FASHION TECHNOLOGY 195 6 Theresia Grevinga, Marijke Timmermans, Ger Brinks 7 Fashion On The Move: Índice Rethinking Design. LA TENDENCIA SLOW FASHION Y EL COMPORTAMIENTO DEL CONSUMIDOR: UN ENFOQUE X International Fashion EXPLORATORIO. 211 Conference. University of Gema Martínez Navarro Navarra. CUANDO LA MODA CUENTA SU PROPIA HISTORIA: CHARLES-FREDERICK WORTH 219 Y LA TENDENCIA HISTORICISTA Nuria Aragonès Riu LUJO Y MODA EN LA OBRA DE JUAN SEMPERE Y GUARINOS (1754-1830) 227 Isabel García Hiljding, Amalia Descalzo 239 DE BARBIE A MUJER EN “SALE”: LA NUEVA BELLEZA FEMENINA SEGÚN JEREMY SCOTT Eva Ogliotti 249 LA LOGOMANÍA EN LA MODA DE LUJO PRÊT-À-PORTER, 2013-2015 Elisa González Penas MODA LÍQUIDA: CAMBIO Y TRANSITORIEDAD ASOCIADO AL POSMODERNISMO 261 Sandra Bravo Durán GRANDEZA: RASTROS DE LA MODA INTERNACIONAL EN MEDELLÍN 1890-1950 William Cruz Bermeo 275 REPENSANDO LA MODA: LA TEORÍA DE ADOLF LOOS SOBRE EL VESTIR María Villanueva Fernández, Héctor García-Diego Villarías 285 LA FOTOGRAFÍA DE FRANCESC CATALÁ ROCA Y ELÍAS DOLCET: ANÁLISIS DE LAS TIENDAS DE JAVIER CARVAJAL PARA LOEWE 297 María Eugenia Josa, Diego Vega COSEWING, FASHION LIBRARIES, SWAP PARTIES… ECONOMÍA COLABORATIVA: ¿REMODELAR LA MODA? 311 Josefa Sánchez-Tello, Miryam Martín-Sánchez ¿PUEDE LA CREATIVIDAD INDEPENDIENTE FOMENTAR UN CAMBIO EN LOS VÉRTICES DEL FASHION SYSTEM OFICIAL? EL CASO DE MASSIMO GIORGETTI 323 Daniele Gennaioli 8 9 CONTRADICCIÓN, DIFERENCIA Y DESEO. Fashion On The Move: LA ARQUITECTURA EFÍMERA DE PRADA, 2007-2016 333 Índice Rethinking Design. Jorge Losada X International Fashion Conference. University of Navarra. ‘REAL FANTASIES’. CRUCES DISCIPLINARES EN PRADA 347 Lola Rodríguez Díaz PRESENTATION Since 1992, the University of Navarra organizes this Fashion Conference as a space of dialogue between academia, professionals and students. This edition is organized through the collaboration among three university members: ISEM Fashion Business School, School of Communication and School of Architecture. Fashion, by nature, is always in the limelight, continuously moving and changing. As such, there is an urgent and significant need to analyze and think critically on this matter. 8 Continuous improvement of fashion’s value chain, from 9 Fashion On The Move: the creativity to the point of sale, is possible thanks to the Índice Rethinking Design. X International Fashion research and study of its activities. Conference. University of Navarra. From a multidisciplinary approach to Fashion -business, communication, culture, and education-, this X Fashion Conference at the University of Navarra aims to rethink the status of design in order to examine its current situation and its education as well as to discuss about the future challenges of this discipline. This publication gathers some of the papers that were presented during the X International Fashion Conference that took place on April 20th and 21st, 2016 at the University of Navarra. Editors have limited themselves to organizing the available material and the ideas contained in this publication are the sole responsibility of their authors. 10 PB Fashion On The Move: Índice Rethinking Design. X International Fashion Conference. University of Navarra. 1. Digital transformation of the fashion industry: a research framework Verónica Arribas Barreras ISEM Fashion Business School, University of Navarra (Spain) PB [email protected] 11 Fashion On The Move: Digital transformation of Rethinking Design. the fashion industry: X International Fashion a research Conference. University of framework Navarra. Verónica Arribas Barreras Introduction The word digitization refers to the transformation of information from analogical to digital but more broadly to the transformation driven by the diffusion and assimilation of digital technologies in every as- pect of our lives. Digitization does not only affect consumption but every area of business in a large number of industries. Therefore, it is not surprising that CEOs are getting more and more concerned with technol- ogy disruption in their businesses and industries (IBM 2013). The fashion industry is not immune to this trend and companies in this industry are now facing the challenge of developing comprehensive digital transformation strategies, which will change how they operate, how they are managed and how they com- pete. Academically, there is some work focused on the digital impact in other creative industries like media and publishing, recorded music or film, but when it comes to study the digital impact in the fashion in- dustry we find that there is not a large body of academic work and that the limited contributions are dis- tributed into several different disciplines. Therefore, there is not yet a well-organized-and-structured base from which start a full investigation or academic research path fully focused on this phenomenon. And, definitely the specificity of the industry does invite reflection on how to address this issue. This is precisely the aim of this chapter; it seeks to start constructing a comprehensive research framework that comprises what could be the “critical research questions” of the digital transformation of the fashion industry by iden- tifying and organizing the body of work and research already done in the field of fashion and new digital technologies, and the most important current issues –which can be translated into areas of research- that fashion companies are facing due to the continuous technology evolution and penetration. A framework structure is proposed in this article as a first approach, taking into account a global scope of the whole digitization phenomenon. However, new research ideas, concepts and issues may appear in the near future and be included in the framework; it will be open to continuous review or adaptation and could be extended by other academics interested in this field due to its broad and flexible structure. The initial structure explained here takes into account a holistic analysis focused on three main levels, from which the issue of digital transformation in fashion business can be approached. First, the digitization phenomenon could be analyzed or studied from the industry and competitive strategy level. The second level of analysis would be the one that takes into account organizational and management to foster digital transformation. And finally, the last level of the framework would be the one corresponding to the business activities. We believe the construction of this organizing framework would help, on the one hand, academics