THE PENINSULA: FROM THE BOULDERED SHORES OF KALAWAO TO THE BLACK SANDS OF KALAUPAPA A DISSERTATION SUBMITTED TO THE GRADUATE DIVISION OF THE UNIVERSITY OF HAWAIʻI AT MĀNOA IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY IN AMERICAN STUDIES DECEMBER 2014 By Milo M. Andrus Dissertation Committee: William Chapman, Chairperson David E. Stannard Mark Helbling Robert McGlone Njoroge Njoroge Keywords: Hawaiian Archaeology, Historic Preservation, Kalaupapa, Hansen’s disease i © Copyright 2014 Milo M. Andrus All Rights Reserved ii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS “Everything is owed to those who have gone before,” a Hansen’s disease patient said at a community meeting in Kalaupapa.1 The patient referred to the largesse of state government awards or payments in comparison to the hardships the first patients experienced upon their arrival at Kalawao in January of 1866. In my case those who have gone before, those who have helped in creating this dissertation, have evolved into a long list of benevolent citizens that live and work on the peninsula: Edwin, Bernard, Paul and Winnie, Boogie and Ivy, Albert and Lucy, Walter and Keahu and their son Bruddha, Eric and Claire, Lionel, Guy, Kalawai`a. Others include; Gena Sasada, Gertrude, Elizabeth, Peter, Makia, and other patients and both state and federal workers who endeavored to make my work not only pleasant, but also incredibly rewarding to associate with and observe their daily routines. Two retired professors from the University of Hawai`i at West O`ahu, Dan Boylan, Ph.D., a historian, and Henry Chapin, Ph.D., a literary scholar contributed greatly to my understanding of the Hawaiian Islands and the “fine art” of interpretation. In attending West O`ahu I enjoyed the opportunity of participating in courses from Ross Cordy, Ph.D., who, as an archaeologist and professor of Hawaiian studies was informative about artifacts we located while in a field school in Wai`anae and procedures on how to protect, record, and catalogue them. Likewise, the professors at Mānoa have also been highly influential in my perceptions of history and the depth of tales told. William Chapman, a Doctor of Philosophy, and a specialist in Historic Preservation within the American Studies Department, provided the “nuts and bolts” of classification of the items structured within the National Register of Historic Places, and fundamentals of vernacular architecture. David Stannard provided an 1 Community meetings are held once a month for release of information to the patients on upcoming work or projects by both the state and the National Parks. The meetings also offer the patients a way to question the government over any grievances they have. iii understanding of history beyond dates and individual happenings. Mark Helbling, Robert McGlone, and Njoroge Njoroge, helped me expand on my idea of perception of personal memory, public history and the interpretation of events. I would also like to express a special thank you to Margaret McAleavey for her love and support and for sharing our mutual appreciation for Kalaupapa and the Hansen’s disease patients. A note on language usage: the state of Hawai`i recognizes both English and Hawaiian as official languages. To understand the depth of the landscape, the awareness of the peninsula, Hawaiian names, locations and their spelling are in accordance with Mary Kawena Pukui and Samuel H. Elbert in the Hawaiian Dictionary, rev. ed. (Honolulu: University of Hawai`i Press, 1986). I have followed Place Names of Hawai`i, rev. ed. (Honolulu: University of Hawai`i Press, 1974). I have endeavored to spell personal names of patients, state and NPS employees according to an individual’s preference. iv ABSTRACT Forcibly banished because of their illness, seventeen leprosy patients landed on the north shore of Moloka`i in 1866. Over the ensuing decades, another eight thousand arrived on this isolated peninsula known as Kalaupapa. Nearly 150 years later, the settlement still exists as home for the remaining leprosy or Hansen’s disease patients who are few in number and elderly. The settlement became a National Park in 1980, but the state of Hawai`i owns the land. Two state agencies, the Department of Hawaiian Home Lands and the Department of Land and Natural Resources control different parcels and each leases their interest to the National Park Service. When this lease expires in 2042, what will happen to the peninsula remains uncertain. While one phase of life ends for the patients, another commences with different competing government bodies, both state and federal, vying for jurisdictional control. This dissertation explores the valuable resources contained on the peninsula and within its three valleys. I examine the extensive volcanic activity, the pristine conditions of the endangered plant and animal life, and the archaeological record of Kanaka Maoli, the Native Hawaiians, or the indigenous inhabitants. I also focus on the Hansen’s disease patients, drawing on extensive interviews I conducted with them, especially noting their stories or mo`olelo, along with an examination of their housing and community buildings. This dissertation interrogates the intersection of the relationship of these various cultural resources and argues for their preservation as essential to maintaining public memory of a time and place unique in the Hawaiian Islands. This dissertation provides an in-depth study of the area geologically, physically, and historically. All aspects of this sacred `āina need to be preserved for future generations’ understanding of the pre-contact Native Hawaiian and the story of the Hansen’s disease patients. v TABLE OF CONTENTS Acknowledgements ……………………………………………………………………….iii Abstract………………………………………………………………………………………v Preface……………………………………………………………………………………….iv Chapter I: Introduction ……………………………… ……………………………………..1 Historic Preservation…………………………………………………………………14 Chapter II: The Natural Landscape …………………..……………………………………..29 Volcanic Moloka`i ……...………………………….…………………….………….30 Flora ………………………………………………………………………………....40 Zoology ...……..………………………………………….……………………….....45 Chapter III: Archaeology…………………………………………………………………….51 Archaeological Sites…………………………………………………………………61 Chapter IV: Aspects of Windward Moloka`i Society …………….........................................80 Chapter V: Preservation of the Churches .………………………………………………….107 St. Philomena Catholic Church .……………………………………………………113 Siloama Church of the Healing Spring .……………………………………………115 Kana`ana Hou Protestant Church .………………………………………………….118 Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints .………………………………………121 St. Francis Catholic Church ………………………………………………………..123 Chapter VI: Institutional Patient Housing ………………………………………………...126 McVeigh Home for White Foreigners ……………………………………………..128 Bay View Home for the Aged and Blind …………………………………………..137 Bishop Home for Women and Young Girls ……………………………………….141 Chapter VII: Independent Patient Housing…...……………………………........................148 Plantation Style Houses“A” …....…………………………………………………..152 Plantation Style Houses“B” ……………………………………………………….160 Plantation Style Houses “C ……………………………………….……………….163 Plantation Style House “D” ……………………………………….……………….165 Hicks Homes……………………………………..…………………………………167 Beach Houses……………………………………………………………………….171 vi Chapter VIII: Historic Buildings: Community, Administrative and Industrial……………178 Community Buildings …………………………...…………………………………180 Staff Row………………………………………………………………………….. 195 Industrial Area ..…………………………………………………………………....198 Moloka`i Lighthouse ……………………..………………….…….……………….199 Airport ………………………………………………………………………….…..201 Chapter IX: Into the Future…………………………………………………...…………….204 Management Zones……………………………………….………………………...212 General Management Plan: The Alternatives…………….………………………...216 Fundamental Principle………………………………….…………………………..224 Crystal Ball Gazing ………………………………………………………………...237 Appendix A: Plants ………………………………………………………………………...243 Appendix B: Hawaiian Heiau ……………………………………………………………...244 Appendix C: Archaeologists ……………….………………………………………………246 Appendix D: Hawaiian Ocean Terms ……………………………………….......................248 Appendix E: Patient Housing ………………………………………………………………249 Bibliography ……………………………………………………………………………….255 vii ILLUSTRATIONS: MAPS AND PHOTOGRAPHS 1. Aerial View of the peninsula ..............................................................................................8 2. Heiau and St. Philomena Church ………………………………………………………..62 3. Makapulapai Petroglyph ………………………………………………………………..68 4. Calvinist Church ………………………………………………………………………..93 5. Ahupua`a Rock Wall……………………………………………………………………100 6. Map of the peninsula – 1895……………………………………………………………108 7. Siloama: Church of the Healing Spring ………………………………………………116 8. Kana`ana Hou Church ………………………………………………………………119 9. Map of Kalaupapa – 1930 ………...……………………………………………………127 10. McVeigh Housing ………………………………………………………………………134 11. Bay View Housing …………………………………………………………………….138 12. Bishop Home………………………………………………………………………...…142 13. Aerial photograph of Kalaupapa – 1950 ………………………………………………149 14. Plantation Housing – Style “A” ………………………………………………………153 15. Plantation Housing – Style “B” ………………………………………………………161 16. Plantation Housing – Style “C” ………………………………………………………163 17. Plantation Housing – Style “D” ………………………………………………………165 18. Hicks Homes ………………………………………………………………………….167 19. Beach House …..……………………………………………………………………….172 20. Map of Kalaupapa – 1939 ………………………………………………………………179 21. Kamahana Store ………………………………………………………………………193 22. Bar warehouse…………………………………………………………………………..195 viii