INDEX TO THE } 1 ALPINE JOURNAL I Vols. 16 to 38 _< .', I -/ ~,;.:~, I Printed by SPOTTISWOODE, BALLANTYNE & CO. LTD. ,LONDON, COLCHESTER & ETON ( 1929 ", \ ) j ,I f PREFACE. THE present volume carries on the Index to the ALPINEJOURNAL from Volumes 16 to 38. The form is somewhat different from the Index to Volumes 1 to 15, and is founded on one which the late Mr. Raymond Bicknell had made for his own use. The early stages of the work were actually canied out by Mr. Bicknell himself, to whom the Alpine Club is much indebted, and the thanks of the Club are also due· to the late Capt. J. P. Farrar, Mr. P. J. H. Dnna, Mr. R. Graham, Mr. C. Candler, Dr. E. H. Stevens, and Mr. Sydney Spencer, for their valuable assistance. The inclusion of the references to the illustrations in Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers, and the first 15 volumes, will be found useful. The three volumes of Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers are numbered a-s before, P. 1, P. 2, and P. 3, to avoid confusion of the two series. \, 2 Index to Volumes 16 to 38. Accidents, special: Accidents, special: Blanc, Mt: 17 368, 563, 21 251, 23 330, Predigtstuhl: 18 263, 359 26195,27364,32274 Rainier, Mt: 20 144 1866,18561 Rosa, Mte: 1745, 24 673 1873,31206 Rosso, Cima di: 20 260 Blanche Dent: 19587,590 Rothorn, Zinal: 17 271 Bliimlisalphorn: 22612, 26453 Rouges d'ArolIa, Aig.: 23 393 Chamonin, Col: 28 400 Scafell: 1744,21 554, 22 76 Charmoz: 1784, 34 365 Schallihorn: 34 328 1898,19266 Schreckhorn: 19 594, 31 255 Claridenpass: 25 79 Schwarzhorn (Saas): 24 96 Cook, 11ft: 1914,28 222, 256, 36 167 Sustenlimmi: 23 322 Croda Grande: 20 218 Tanneverge, Ptc de: 24 349 Doldenhorn: 26 218 Taschhorn: 1739, 42 Doldenhorn, Klein: 24 348 Torrone, Pizzo: 25 733 Dolent, lVIt: 25 731 ' Totenkirchl: 25 79, 37 360 Dolomites: 19 186 Triftjoch: 17563 Dm: 37359 Unterbach gl. : 31104 Ecrins: 20 259, 2S1 Vaudru: 17133 'Eon, Mt: 34 501 Veisivi, Petite Dent de: 19266 Everest: 34437,36217 et seq. Verte, Aig.: 36 424,38346 Finsteraarhorn: 35 317 Viso, J\itc: 17564 Fiilzstein: 22 610 Weisshorn: 20 255,37358 Fiinffingerspitze: 16 257, 19 268 Wetterhorn: 18568, 21 256, 286, 24 34S, Gabelhorn: 22 319, 24 349, 28 34 32123 Gable, Great: 24 675 Winterliicke: 24 398 Geant, Co1du : 23 641 ZwoIferspitze: 18 263 Gliere: 35 314 Achen valley: ill., 16 4ll GIiischaint: 36 422 Acheshbokh, Mt: 26 319 GIyders: 25 145 Acland, Mt: 1st asc., 28 345 Gouter, Aig. du: 23321,25447 ill.: from Godley river, 24 69, 76 Grenz gl.: 21137 Aconcagua: Grindelwald gl., Upper: 18267 Zurbriggen: 1st asc., 18331 Grivola: 16 256 Vines: asc., 18 395; paper on, 19 565 Hochtor: 25 79 Fitzgerald on, 19 1. 216 Jorasses, Grandes: 16502 Conway, 19 340,509, 561,20 81, 2786 Jungfrau: 17564,18557,22612,24348 Ryan,37199 Kangchenjhau: 27 132 Sundt, 30 206, 366 Kangchenjunga: 22 615, 23 51 other asc., 25 404 Lefroy, Mt: 18 lOS,227, 19 70, 97 height of, 20 82, 24 138 Leiterspitze: 34475 . Bryce on position of, 34 188 Lliwedd: 25 147 ill.: from Horcones valley, 2061 Lysjoch: 22 614 from Smugglers' pass, 20 81 Lyskamm: 18 268 Acqua, Pizzo del' : l\1anndlkogel: 27 427 asc., 16 520, 17 226,230 Marmolata: 23 322 ill.: N. face, 17227 Matterhorn : Adai Khokh: 19 77 1865-official enquiry, 33 234, 247 1st asc., 26 420, 29 215, 30 195 1893,16 502; 1900, 20 259 asc., 23 249 1901,20 490, 534 name discussed, 28 90 1907,23644,2578; 1926,38345 ill. : from Double peak, 28 132 Meije :. 18 263, 360, 23 640, 26 77, 38 346 Adai Khokh district: Midtmaradalstind: 34 29 bibliography of, 16 33 l\Hirchner,Gross: 18266 Adai Khokh group: Muveran, Grand: 23 324 map & pote on map, 16 31 Oedkarspitze: 18 262 • map, 29 155, 164 PaIn: 19497 asc. in,28 86, 133 Paradis, Grand: 2051, 22 316, 24 522 exploration of, 28410, 29 215 Perseverance, Aig. de la: 38 345 highest peak, 29 158 Peuteret, Aig. Bl. de: 37 358 m.: from Shoda, 16 I Peuteret, Aig. Noire de: 16 504 Adai-Songuta pass: 28 402 Peuteret, Mt Rouge de: 26 454,27 39 Adam range, N.Z., }It: 24 74 Plan, Aig. du: 25 724, 26195 Adamant, }It: asc., 27314 Pleureur, 11ft: 18 558 ill.: from S.E., 27 314 Index to Volumes 16 to 38. 3 Adams, W. G.: 'Mountaineering in Norway Ailefroide: maps, 38 120, 121 in 1896,' 18 302 ill.: P. 3 209; gl. of, P. 3 194 death of, 29 267 from E.,"l150 Adams-Reilly, A : W. peak from S616gl., 23 609 his map of Mt Blanc, 24 18, 50 N. face, 27 438 Adele, Campanile: by N. face, 34 322 N. face from Col du S616, Mayer's route, Adi, Punta (Croda da Lago) : 27439 asc., 19 601 from gl. de la Pilatte, 29 172 Adler pass: early records of, 32 58 Ainslie, C.: port., 30 291, 31 314 Adlerspitzen ~ 24 295 Aishkho pass & mt: 26 317 Adolphus, Lake: 26 398 Akkem pass: ill., Kalmuks on, 22 47 Adula Alps: notes from, 17 122 Alaska: see special list, p. 81 Adyr, :tvIts.of: 28 410 Explorations in the Territory of, 1898, Adyrsu, Pks. of: 18487 21356-7 Adyrsu-Bashi: asc., 18 255, 485, 490 Giving the Results of the Harriman Adzunta pass: 18 545 Alaska Expedition, 21 142-3 Aela, Piz d' : Albania: see special list, p. 90 asc., 18 323, 418, 19 492, 21 20 Mts. & map of, 17 405 Aelpistock: 1st asc., 22 617,2318 Albaron: asc., 23 512 Aemmer pass: cr., 25 524 by E.N.E. face, 26 195 Acrmighorn: ill., 38212 by N.N. W. face, 37 119 Afanasieff: his guide to Caucasus, ~ 240 ill.: 2 79, 37 136 death of, 31125 from Grande Sassiere, 24 334 Africa, Central: see special list p. 84 Albattau (or Uilpata): 29 159 Africa, South: see special list, p. 90 Albergian, Col d': 22 294 Agassiz, Prof. L. J. : 30 165, 287 Alberta, Mt: 19 460, 34 490 entry in Grimsel book by, 30211 1st asc., 37 311, 316 I, Agassizjoch: 28335,30237 ase., 37 374 1st cr., 28274 ill.: 35 195 ');~ Aget, Bec d': 17253 from S. W., 37 309, 374 f',' 1st asc., 1848 from S.E., 37 374 . I Agneaux, Montagne des: Albigna, Colle dell': 24 387,25 7l9, 760 tr., 23 610, 28230 proposed change of name, 27 412 Agostini, R.: his books: Albigna gl.: 24 387 Camaldoli e suoi Dintorni, 16 535 Albigna, Pizzo dell': 25 558 lHontepiano e sue Adiacenze, 16 535 Albigna, Punta dell': 1st asc., 25 558 Agiizza, Crast' : Albreda peak: asc., 37 82 by S.W. face, 26 198 ill., 37 80 tr., 25 4,470 Alchori gl.: 21 579, 22 495 in winter, 1855 Alcock, Sir Rutherford: 1st asc., of Fuji by winter asc., 19 482 . European, 30 267 accident on, 21 553, 33 287 Alcohol: effects on mountaineers, 28 239 ill., 25 4 Aletschhorn: 1st asc., 27 343, 32231 Aigle, Aig. de 1': 2884 early asc., 32 234 Aigle, Mont de l' (or Aiguillette): asc., 30 153 asc., 27 324 by N. face, 26 92, 37 373 Aigle Rouge: 17 256 bJ' S.E. ridge, 19 251 Aigles, Aig. des Deux: 27447 by W. ridge, 17 258 Aiguille, Grande: by W. face, 16 316 tr., 19 550 Aiguille, Mont: 23 77, 27 235,367 accident, 26 456 asc., 28 369 ill.: 35 209; from Eggishorn, P. 3 37 by N. face, 33 285 N. face, 37 373 by S.W. face, 36 160 Aletschjoch, Mittel: 1st cr., 19 251 ill.: 28 370-1,36160 Alexander Mackenzie, !fIt: attempt,31133 from Chichillianne, 27 77 Alexandra peak-Mt Stanley: Aiguilles de Ohamonix from S.E. : ill., 23 388, 390, 37 105 diagram: 35 284 Algie, R. M. & Mrs.: port., 38 13 Aiguilles, Col des: 16 48 Alin gl.: 26 200 Ailama: 18 197 Allais, Gio: his book: Le Alpi Occidentali asc., 18297 nell' Antichita, 16 129 ill.: from N.W., 18 291 Allalinhorn: from N. W. in 1860, 32 215 Ailefroide: eentral peak by N. ridge, 27437, 1st winter asc., 34 137 38 llS , Allalin pass: early records of, 32 60 4 Index to Volumes 16 to 38. Allbutt, T. Clifford: Alpine Club: 'Reminiscences of F .. J; D6vouallsoud,' exhibitions, see below 31202 future of, 20 295, 356 : obituary of T. S. Kennedy, 17 331 history of, 19 154, 24 15, 34 1, 38336 obituary of T. G. Bonney, 36 142 Journal,27 256, 34346, 35 127 obituary & port., 37176 Jubilee, 24 15, 33 Alh\e, Col de I': 21519 library, see below Allee, Pigne de 1': col near, 24 442 members serving in H.M. forces, 28 407, Allee Blanche: 18 57 29 203, 219, 281, 30 1, 95, 229, 311, 145, Allee Blanche, Aig. de 1': asc., 27 88 289,32 1, 147 by E.ridge, 24 605 obituary, see below ill.: aig. & gl. de 1', 19 307 proceedings, see.below Allemands, Fauteuil des: 25 502 Register, 35 10, 118 Allen, S. E. S.: '110untaineering in the reports: Canadian Rockies,' 18 96, 222, 397 A.C. and mountain exploration, 221 Allievi, Colle: see Albigna, Colle dell' rooms: 18358,33433,35 12, 127 Allmen, K. von: port., 35 317 change of, 17 380, 463 Allport, D. W.: 'Rough Weather on Fin- ill., 34 5 steraarhorn 50 years ago,' 34 251 rules, 22 163, 24 289, 454, 37 193, 219, Alma, Mt: 1st asc., 36 282, 405 38 168 Almagelhorn: asc.