MILADY’S PROFESSIONAL BARBERING COURSE MANAGEMENT GUIDE LESSON PLAN 20.0 Chapter 20: Nails and Manicuring TOPICS 1. Introduction 2. The Nail A. Structure B. Nail Growth 3. Nail Disorders and Diseases A. Introduction B. Disorders and Diseases 4. Introduction to Manicuring A. Equipment B. Implements C. Sanitation and Disinfection D. Materials E. Nail Cosmetics F. Polish Applications 5. Hand and Arm Massage A. Hand Massage B. Arm Massage 6. Basic Table Setup A. Sanitation and Regulations B. Setup C. Chair-side Manicure 7. Client Consultation A. Overview B. Nail Shapes C. Manicure Pre-service 8. Manicure Procedures A. Men’s Manicure B. Women’s Plain Manicure C. Post-service NOTES TO THE INSTRUCTOR In some states, the study of nails and manicuring is a subject within the barbering curriculum and should be taught in order to comply with state board rules and regulations. In those states where the subject is not a mandatory course of study, the inclusion of this chapter is best left to the discretion of the school and instructor. It is recommended that students who aspire to barbershop ownership spend some time studying the topic so they are better prepared to oversee future employees should a mani- curist ever be hired for the barbershop. STUDENT PREPARATION: Read Chapter 20: Nails and Manicuring STUDENT MATERIALS • Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Student Workbook 485 © 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. 997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 485485 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:112:58:11 PPMM • Milady’s Professional Barbering Student CD-ROM • Writing materials LEARNING OBJECTIVES Upon completion of this lesson, students should be able to: 1. Identify the composition of the nail. 2. Identify and describe nail irregularities and diseases. 3. Demonstrate the proper use of manicuring implements, equipment, and products. 4. Recognize the fi ve general shapes of nails. 5. Demonstrate manicure and hand massage procedures. ALLOTTED TIME: Two to four hours, depending on depth of study and range of activities. TEACHING AIDS • Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Instructor Slides • Whiteboard or chalkboard; dry-erase markers or chalk • CD/DVD player or overhead projector • Manicuring equipment, tools, implements, and products EDUCATOR REFERENCES • Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook • Milady’s Professional Barbering Course Management Guide LESSON OUTLINE 1. Introduction A. Nail care and beautifi cation evidenced in Egyptian and Chinese records. B. Barbershops of the fi rst half of the twentieth century routinely provided manicures as part of the traditional shave, haircut, and shoeshine service. C. Many of today’s barbershops offer manicure services for clients. 2. The Nail: see textbook Figure 20-1 and Supplement 20.0. A. Structure 1. Nail unit: horny, translucent plate of hard keratin that protect the tips of the fi ngers and toes. a. Part of the integumentary system; considered appendages of the skin. b. Finger and toe nail anatomy the same. 2. Technical term: onyx (AHN-iks). 3. Condition refl ects general body health; healthy nail: translucent pinkish color and smooth. 4. No nerves or blood vessels within horny nail plate. 5. Consists of nail bed, matrix, nail plate or body, cuticle, eponychium, hyponychium, specialized ligaments, and nail folds. 6. Nail bed: lies under nail plate; the skin where nail plate rests; nourished by blood vessels and nerves. 7. Matrix: imbedded under the skin; where nail is formed. a. Matrix cells produce nail plate, which originates at the nail base. b. Growth may be retarded by poor health, disorder, disease, or injury. c. Lunula: visible portion of the matrix. 486 © 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. 97147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 486 8/3/10 12:53:35 PM 8. Nail plate: formerly called nail body; visible portion of nail; extends to free edge. 9. Cuticle: crescent of dead tissue attached to nail plate around nail base. 10. Eponychium: living skin at the base of the nail plate. 11. Hyponychium: layer of skin that lies between the fi ngertip and free edge of the nail plate. 12. Specialized ligaments: fi brous tissue bands that attach the nail bed and matrix to underlying bone. 13. Nail folds: folds of normal skin surrounding the nail plate; form nail grooves on sides of nail and permit nail movement as it grows. B. Nail Growth 1. Infl uenced by nutrition, health, and disease. 1 2. Average rate of growth for normal adult is about ⁄10" per month. 3. Grow faster in summer than winter; nail of middle fi nger grows fastest and thumbnail most slowly. 4. Nail malformation a. Nail separation from nail bed through injury; becomes distorted or discolored; nail-bed injury causes badly formed new nail. b. Nails are replaced only if the matrix remains in good condition. c. Nail replacement takes four to six months. 3. Nail Disorders and Diseases: see textbook Figures 20-2 to 20-22. A. Introduction 1. Important to recognize nail-disorder symptoms to decide whether or not to perform service. 2. May be necessary to recommend medical treatment. 3. May be improved cosmetically. 4. Rule: Do not perform service on condition with infected, infl amed, broken, or swollen skin. B. Disorders and Diseases 1. Onychosis: technical term applied to any deformity or disease of the nail. 2. Bruised nails: blood clot forms under the nail plate; caused by injury to nail bed. 3. Discolored nails: can be caused by poor blood circulation, heart condition, or topical or oral medications; may also indicate a systemic disorder; tips or colored polish can hide condition. 4. Eggshell nails: thin, white, curved at free edge; caused by improper diet, internal disease, medication, or nerve disorders; fragile and break easily. 5. Ridges: long ridges running lengthwise down the nail; usually occur with age. 6. Beau’s lines: ridges running across nail; may be caused by psoriasis, poor circulation, frostbite, high fever, pregnancy, measles in childhood, zinc defi ciency in the body; buff to remove or shorten ridges; use ridge fi ller. 7. Hangnails: also called agnails; common condition; cuticle around nail splits; caused by dry or closely cut cuticles; soften with oil; improper service may cause infection. 8. Leukonychia: appearance of white spots on nails; result of air bubbles, bruise, or other injury; nail will eventually grow out. 9. Melanonychia: darkening of nail due to localized pigment cells in matrix; hide with nail polish or artifi cial nails. 10. Onychocryptosis: ingrown nails; nail grows into sides of tissue around the nail; can be caused by improper fi ling or poor-fi tting shoes; trim corner of nail in a curved shape to relieve pressure; should be treated by a physician. 11. Onychophagy: medical term for nails that have been bitten enough to become deformed; can be improved with professional manicuring techniques. 12. Onychorrhexis: split or brittle nails with lengthwise ridges; caused by injury, excessive use of cuticle solvents, polish removers, or rough fi ling; do not service if nail is split below free edge. 13. Nail pterygium: forward growth of cuticle on nail; cuticle sticks to nail; treat with a hot oil manicure and push back cuticle. 487 © 2011 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be copied, scanned, or duplicated, in whole or in part, except for use as permitted in a license distributed with a certain product or service or otherwise on a password-protected website for classroom use. 997147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd7147_20_ch20_p485-502.indd 487487 55/31/10/31/10 112:58:112:58:11 PPMM 14. Plicatured nail: folded nail caused by injury to the matrix. 15. Pincer or trumpet nail: nail plates with deep or sharp curvature at free edge; caused by curvature of the matrix. 16. Nail infections: caused by bacterial such as Pseudomonas aeruginosa. a. Onychia: infl ammation of the matrix with pus, redness, swelling, and shedding of the nail; caused by improperly sanitized implements and bacterial infection. b. Onychomadesis: separation or falling off of nail from nail bed; caused by localized infection or minor injury to matrix. c. Onycholysis: nail loosens from nail bed, beginning at free edge and continuing to lunula, but does not come off; caused by an internal disorder, trauma, infection, or certain drugs. d. Nail psoriasis: causes tiny pits or severe roughness on the surface of the nail plate. e. Paronychia: bacterial infl ammation of tissue around nail; symptoms: redness, swelling, tissue tenderness; can occur at the base of the nail, around the entire nail plate, or on the fi ngertip. f. Pyrogenic granuloma: severe infl ammation of nail; lump of red tissue grows up from the nail bed to the nail plate. g. Onychomycosis: fungal infection; whitish patches on nail that can be scraped off or long yellowish streaks within nail plate. 4. Introduction to Manicuring A. Equipment 1. Manicure: derived from Latin manus (hand) and cura (care); means care of the hands and nails. 2. Manicure table with adjustable lamp: use 40- to 60-watt bulb. 3. Client’s chair and nail technician’s chair or stool. 4. Finger bowl: bowl that is shaped specifi cally for soaking the fi ngers. 5. Disinfectant container: holds disinfectant solution to immerse implements for sanitizing.