NEW RELIGION TRUE RELIGION HERALDS ITS RELAUNCH WITH A NEW MARKET-BOUND AD CAMPAIGN AS WELL AS AN ALTERED STORE DESIGN. PAGE 12 JIMMY CHOO TALKS EXPANSION AND PLANS FOR AN IPO THAT BECKHAM’S FIRST WOULD VALUE THE COMPANY AT VICTORIA BECKHAM UNVEILS HER MORE THAN $1 BILLION. PAGE 9 FIRST FLAGSHIP, IN LONDON. PAGE 8 WWDWEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY SPRING 2015 INSPIRATIONS PARIS COLLECTIONS PARIS BOULEVARD PARIS — The City of Light is also a city of big boulevards, Karl Lagerfeld reminds us, with his spring inspiration for Chanel, shown here as a dreamy hand-colored photograph. As the Paris women’s shows started their nine-day run here on Tuesday, designers shared the ideas behind their collections. For more inspirations, and reviews from Day One, see pages 4 to 7. IMAGE COURTESY OF CHANEL IMAGE COURTESY 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 2014 WWD.COM Brown Resigns From Herrera THE BRIEFING BOX During Brown’s tenure, the company took a IN TODAY’S WWD By LISA LOCKWOOD deeper dive into digital. The Herrera brand Web site was relaunched in 2012 and several social plat- NEW YORK — After a four-year tenure, Caroline forms and digital initiatives were subsequently Brown, president of Carolina Herrera, has resigned launched. In August, Herrera introduced the com- from the company. pany’s first iOS application, Style Concierge. The She will leave at the end of the year. Under app is specifically tailored for each client and tar- her leadership, Herrera experienced consecutive gets Herrera’s top customers. years of fiscal growth and she helped implement In another effort to grow the business, Herrera such steps as expanded product offerings, devel- launched eyewear in 2011 for both the Carolina opment of digital branding, broadening of interna- Herrera New York and CH Carolina Herrera brands tional distribution and the strengthen- with licensing partner De Rigo. The new ing of domestic partnerships and the collection has experienced strong reac- company’s infrastructure. Brown also tion in the Middle East, South America helped oversee the further expansion and Spain, exceeding sales projections in FEUGÈRE of Herrera’s secondary collection, CH each country. Carolina Herrera. Brown also strengthened Herrera’s Dance duo Les Twins sat front row at Anthony Vaccarello’s spring STÉPHANE Brown couldn’t be reached for com- infrastructure, starting with the New BY ment Tuesday on her plans. A Herrera York headquarters and rolling out en- show. For more, see WWD.com. spokeswoman said a search is on for hancements to the production, design PHOTO her successor. and atelier facilities, as well as the de- While leveraging the haute couture velopment of a senior executive team. From ghosts and Pre-Raphaelites to dark shadows and know-how of the New York-based ate- To accommodate a doubling of space Caroline cloud-flecked skies, Paris designers gave free rein to their lier, Brown spearheaded a strategy to Brown devoted to product development and de- PAGE 1 address a wider range of lifestyle needs. sign, the corporate headquarters were imagination. For example, the company expanded renovated and expanded and the supply its product offerings to include luxury daywear and side was realigned in 2011 to establish new manufac- Victoria Beckham is opening a 6,040-square-foot, three-level capsule collections augmenting seasonal deliveries. turing partners that specialize in luxury. Last spring, store in London’s Mayfair district Thursday. PAGE 8 Among these were “Icons of the House,” or signature Brown appointed Giuseppe Celio, formerly of Oscar pieces as in The Night Collection and heritage prints de la Renta, to the position of chief operating officer. Olivia Pope may wear items from The Limited’s “Scandal” in Archive, a cotton daywear program. Brown told WWD in July, “We pride ourselves as a collection on T V, but Kerry Washington, who plays Pope, arrived The size of Herrera’s business could not be company in having a great environment and a culture Monday at a Limited event dressed in Giles. PAGE 8 learned, but the Puig-owned fashion house said in that is conducive to productivity. It stems from Mrs. May 2012 that it had global retail sales estimated at Herrera herself, who is not about a lot of drama. It’s a Jimmy Choo is planning to move deeper into China as it $1.3 billion the year before, up 21 percent from 2010. very civilized environment but we’re a very close team.” readies for an initial public offering set for October on the In an interview in July, Brown told WWD, “We Prior to joining Herrera, Brown was chief ex- London Stock Exchange. PAGE 9 are always challenging the existing product matrix ecutive officer of Akris U.S., and before that, senior to say, ‘What can be enhanced?’ and ‘How can we vice president of marketing and communications, A new line of tech accessories — designed by Nanette Lepore, do it better?’” U.S., for Giorgio Armani. Anna Sui and Isaac Mizrahi New York — will be sold exclusively at all Best Buy stores. PAGE 9 A look at the latest and greatest hot spots to check out during Retailers Aim to Reduce Environmental Impact Paris Fashion Week. PAGE 10 toward a more informal “sharing help us and the industry to col- By KRISTI’’ ELLIS economy,” more-empowered con- laborate on innovation and inno- Hennes & Mauritz AB will show its H&M Studio collection in PAGE 11 sumers, urbanization, “radical vation within the supply chain,” Paris during a one-day presentation today. WASHINGTON — Retail execu- transparency,” the decline of eco- Heiny said. “It offers valuable op- tives on Tuesday unveiled the system services, the scarcity of portunity for collaboration, wheth- With fashion month in full swing, The Fashion Group framework of a major sustainabil- water and other resources, geo- er it’s between retailers….or with International has released its latest Webinar, “Beyond ity program aimed at developing political instability and the need apparel brands, for example, both the Runway.” PAGE 11 ways to reduce the environmental to cope with climate change. on knowledge sharing but also on impact of their businesses over The Forum for the Future de- fueling an innovative approach Pietro Marzotto, the former chairman and chief executive the next 15 years. veloped what officials describe that is going to help our guests officer of the Marzotto textile group, and 10 others are facing The program, dubbed as four possible scenarios where and our team members make charges of environmental disaster and manslaughter. PAGE 12 “Retail Horizons,” is being led the 22 trends could take shape, more sustainable decisions.” by the Retail Industry Leaders and analyzed their impact on the Heiny said previous part- ON WWD.COM Association and Forum for the businesses. For example, one of nerships with the forum and Future, a nonprofit global sus- the four scenarios is labeled the “future” scenario discussions FRONT ROW AT ANTHONY VACCARELLO: French dance tainability initiative, and seeks “Rust Belt Renewal.” helped drive Target to become duo Les Twins sat front row at Anthony Vaccarello’s spring the founding member of the show in Paris on Tuesday. For more, see WWD.com. Sustainable Apparel Coalition. From a retail perspective, the real “That is an industry group that encompasses about 40 per- CORRECTIONS focus is on used items, rentals and cent of the global apparel and food industry by volume and Avery Baker joined Tommy Hilfiger Corp. in 1998. The year long-lasting products and consumers develops tools and resources to was incorrect in a story on page 6 Tuesday. drive down our environmental The name of Karine Van Tassel, fair organizer for Spin Expo, and social impact within those was misspelled in a story on page 9, Sept. 16. are very thrifty and self-reliant. supply chains,” Heiny said. — JAMES GOODMAN, RETAIL INDUSTRY LEADERS Todd Troldahl, divisional vice president of packaging and sus- ASSOCIATION AND FORUM FOR THE FUTURE tainability and green leadership FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA at Sears Holdings Corp., said: “It @ WWD.com/social to provide a platform and tool kit “This is one where there is a lot began with identifying trends that for companies to discuss how they of global uncertainty, which cre- are driving the change in our in- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. will cope with a host of changes ates a lot of challenges for the U.S. dustry, then building stories of the WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. that will affect their businesses economy, but it is also one in which industry’s potential futures and COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. and their sustainability strate- there is a real resurgence in local finally, creating a toolkit to make VOLUME 208, NO. 63. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and gies. Target Corp. and Unilever manufacturing and agriculture in our findings actionable and to December, and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance sponsored the project, which will the U.S.,” said James Goodman, help align the environmental and Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, be launched next week at RILA’s director of futures for the non- social impact with the operational Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer.