The Casa Sarandi Guide to Montevideo and Beyond Karen and Sergio have put together some recommendations of places we like to go ourselves. Many of them are within walking distance of Casa Sarandi. Please let us know if you visit a place that we should be recommending! WALKING DISTANCE Plaza Matriz A pretty square with colonial buildings around it and a cool antiques There's no information in market on weekends. Some of our guests have recommended the English about Uruguay chivitos in La Corte. anywhere! Yes, we agree. Peatonal Sarandi Sarandi is a pedestrianised street with cafes, antique shops and That's why Karen recently decided bookshops. Definitely check out the Torres Garcia art gallery and the to start blogging. You can check Puro Verso bookshop. Recommended lunch-bars are Estrecho out her new blog (Sarandi 460) and the French-owned Wasa Ethnik (Zabala 1341 just off GuruGuay Sarandi). www.guruguay.net Solis Theatre Also take a look at Uruguaynow. Montevideo and Uruguay's most important theatre. Shows are It has lots of great articles about accessibly priced and often free. There is a lively 30-minute tour neighbourhoods, customs and around the theatre. The Solis Theatre Cafe has wifi and a lovely gift more. Very well-written and and book shop. balanced, unfortunately it is no longer updated. Tristan Narvaja market www.uruguaynow.com On Sundays the Tristan Narvaja antiques-and-everything-else market. It starts at the corner of Av 18 de Julio and Tristan Narvaja street and is open from about 8am until around 2pm. Beware of pickpockets on Tristan Narvaja itself. The side streets are actually more interesting anyway with vendors laying out their wares on blankets. Torres Garcia Museum Uruguay's most famous artist. His most famous work is the map of the Americas with South America at the top. The gift and book shop is a really great place to stock up on gifts - unusual things at very reasonable prices. Gurvich Art Gallery This Lithuanian Jewish artist came to Uruguay as a child. The museum and gallery are a gem. On Ituzaingó on the Colonial square just past the cathedral. www.museogurvich.org Biking, running and walking along the Rambla (Montevideo's 25km boardwalk) Casa Sarandi is two blocks from the rambla. Go down to the rambla from Casa Sarandi and turn left to head The Casa Sarandi Guide to Montevideo and Beyond Version 1.8 Casa Sarandi Guesthouse & Loft, URUGUAY www.casasarandi.com Some rights reserved January 2014 east towards Parque Rodo (km 4.5), plush Pocitos beach (km 8), Buceo and the cemetery (km 10.5) or further. Going right will take you to the port but the views are industrial. There are signposts every half km. Bike rentals Bicicleteria Sur Florida 1205 esquina1 Canelones Tel. 29010792 [email protected] Orange Bikes Tel. 2908 82 86 [email protected] Rate: 4 hours minimum for 8 USD. They will deliver bikes free of charge. Note that they may not be absolutely punctual. If you don't speak Spanish we can give you a hand. *In the guesthouse please park bikes on the street. Our neighbours have asked us not to keep bikes in the entrance. Thanks! Parque Rodó – the park, the funfair and Sunday night drumming The charming neighbourhood where Karen and Sergio live and a park named after a famous Uruguayan writer whose monument is one of many in the park – look out for Confucious overlooking the beach. Stroll the park during the day with hundreds of mate-drinking locals. Hire a pedalo and paddle around the tiny lake. Watch the sunset from the beach and then walk back to Casa Sarandi along the rambla. The waterside funfair (juegos mecanicos) is a step back in time. You have not ridden such a kitsch Ghost Train since you were 10. Off season it opens on weekends only. A children's funfair is on the other side of the park (the corner of Blv Artigas and 21 de setiembre) and opens during the day. If you are here on Sundays join La Melaza, Montevideo's only all-woman candombe drumming troupe (cuerda de tambores), at their weekly open-air drumming session. Join them on Blanes street at around 8 pm on the corner of Gonzalo Ramirez by the steps. Their route takes them along San Salvador. Just follow the sound of drums. See http://uruguaynow.com/la_melaza_candombe.php The Sunday market is mainly of interest to locals however there is a small farmers market between the Defensor Sporting Club and the children's funfair if you are looking for organic produce. Places to have fun The corner of Ciudadela and Canelones Our favourite evening hang-out spot close to the water is five blocks What's on in Montevideo? from Casa Sarandi. The Ronda Cafe is busy almost every night, with Karen and Sergio select the best Tuesdays featuring women Djs, musicians, etc. Santa Catalina is great music and cultural events daily for abundant food and cold beers. Bluzz Live around the corner hosts www. facebook.com/CasaSarandi live rock bands. Baar Fun Fun across the road is Montevideo's oldest, most traditional tango bar. The mythical Carlos Gardel played there. Tip Don't be surprised if a live It's a tiny little place with live music most days. show starts an hour later than advertised. Bartolome Mitre Street between Sarandi and Buenos Aires streets Cinema Schedules at Two blocks from Casa Sarandi, this block has lots of bars and live www.cartelera.com.uy (in music most nights including Sundays. Nightlife starts after 10pm and Spanish). English language films on the weekends can go on till dawn. The Shannon Irish Pub stocks are never dubbed - except for local microbrewed beers. children's films. Museo del Vino Maldonado 1150 esquina Gutierrez Ruiz. Tel: 2908 3430 Enjoy a good Uruguayan wine and listen to great music in this tiny bar. Order a bottle or glass of tannat (the grape you should be checking out, it's winning prizes all over the world) and a picada (a selection of cold meats, cheese and bread). The bands are usually of the highest calibre tango, folklore and Uruguayan rhythms. A must. We can phone the owner Miguel to reserve a table if you don't speak Spanish. Tango Classes and Milongas Uruguayan tango developed at the same time as in Argentina and the most famous tango La Cumparsita was written in Montevideo in 1919 just a few blocks from Casa Sarandi. There are two or three daily milongas (places to dance tango), mainly frequented by locals. Most offer classes for beginners (principiantes) before the milonga gets going. Ask Karen for more info if you are interested. 1 Uruguayans give directions by referring to the street and the cross street. Esquina means corner, so “on the corner of”. The Casa Sarandi Guide to Montevideo and Beyond Version 1.8 Casa Sarandi Guesthouse & Loft, URUGUAY www.casasarandi.com Some rights reserved January 2014 Places to eat Mercado del Puerto The Guardian described this place as “Disneyland for carnivores”. Best to go midday when all the stands are open. Weekends especially Sunday lunchtimes are the liveliest. The area is a little sketchy so pay attention. La Pasionaria Reconquista 587 Tel: 2915 6852 Craving veggies? This lunch-time restaurant serves more creative food than the usual Uruguayan steak, including vegetarian dishes and good home-made soups. Be prepared to wait for a table if you go after 1pm. It is located in a gift shop and gallery specialising in unusual gifts by designers and crafts people in a lovely, colonial building with a central courtyard. Santa Catalina Ciudadela esquina Canelones You'll never get a bigger, tastier meal for less in Montevideo. Usually crowded with young people, Uruguay's famously “rustic” president came here for lunch on his first day in office. Supposedly open 24 hours a day except Sundays but might be closed on the whim of the staff. Try the ternera (chunk of veal) or asado (ribs). Dueto Bartolome Mitre 1386 between Sarandi and Rincon Tel: 2915 3231 Many of our guests have insisted that we include Dueto in our recommendations - several have loved it so much they have eaten there three times in two days. This place stands out for its “urban cuisine” and the excellent price of their set menu. The set menu has three courses including a drink for under 500 pesos. Good size portions, extremely fresh fish, unusual vegetable servings eg fresh pea purée. The service and decor are charming. The art-deco building is an ex-police station and the bathrooms are where the cells were. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner. Solis Theatre, Rara Avis and the Theatre Cafe Buenos Aires 652 Tel: 2915 0330 Part of the Solis Theatre, Rara Avis was awarded “best in Montevideo” by UruguayNow.com. The lunch time set menus are reasonably priced. The Cafe also has a midday menu, tasty sandwiches and salads. Punta Carretas on the weekend La Estacada (Faro de P. Carretas (the lighthouse) Tel: 2712 1566) A picturesque parrilla on a peninsula with outdoor seating. Warning: Service can be variable. In the evening sit at the bar for best food and service. La Perdiz (Guipuzcoa 350 esq. Baliñas, Punta Carretas Tel: 2711 8963) This place gets rightly packed out so reserve the day before or go at opening time ie 8pm. Excellent rack of lamb and good fish. FURTHER AFIELD BUT STILL IN MONTEVIDEO Vineyards around Montevideo Uruguay has been producing great wines over the last decade or so, winning international prizes in the red Tannat category.