Italy's Sibillini Mountains Naturetrek Tour Report 3 - 10 June 2015 Olive Skipper Lizard Orchid Report compiled by Philip Thompson Images courtesy of Stuart Morton Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Italy's Sibillini Mountains Tour Report Tour Participants: Philip Thompson Tour Leader Sharon Thompson Co-leader With 13 Naturetrek clients Day 1 Wednesday 3rd June With our early flight safely completed, we met the early arrivals in the Arrivals Lounge of Ancona Airport and set off for the Sibillini National Park. We stopped en route at the Abbadia Di Fiastra Nature Reserve for an exploration and refreshments. After a coffee and soft drink, we undertook a walk around the perimeter of the park. Several bright green Italian Wall Lizards scuttled across the path and posed unconcernedly on the margins as we made our slow passage past. Numerous singing Blackcaps could be heard, joined by a couple of Nightingales deep within the woodland scrub. The pleasant purring sounds of a few Turtle Doves were joined by the melodious calls of a Golden Oriole, both of which eluded sighting. The temperature along the track was becoming oppressive and, joined with our slow progress, brought about the decision to retreat to the Monastery buildings and a light lunch! Whilst we ate we were able to enjoy the vibrant House Martin colony on the buildings with the Tree Sparrows and Common Redstarts on the rooftops and gutters. We then continued our journey to Amandola and our hotel. With time still available, the group were able to walk into the town square to explore this delightful old town and to partake of their first Italian ice cream of the trip! With our appetites still intact, we returned to the hotel to freshen up before a typical local meal. Day 2 Thursday 4th June We began with a short drive to the Rifugio Sibilla, set at 1540m on the flank of the mountain. The drive up the rough winding track had whetted the appetite for the many delights to be found within the park, with a profusion of butterflies and flowers seen. Once at the rifugio we began the walk along the gently rising contour route, on the wide, white, stony track. Progress was slow in the early stages as we identified the many species of flower to be found along the way. Several familiar garden plants were seen here in their native habitat, such as Perennial Cornflower (Centaurea montana), Purple Toadflax (Linaria purpurea) and Snow-in- Summer (Cerastium tomentosum). These were joined by several beautiful and colourful species that we would become familiar with during the coming week, notably Polygala major, Alpine Calamint (Acinos alpina) and Paeonia officinalis. Birds on these slopes are rather thin on the ground but the area does hold a number of notable species, the best of which was a pair of Rufous-tailed Rock Thrushes near the rifugio. As we walked, we added Water Pipit, Northern Wheatear and a few passing Red-billed Chough. Dotted among the commoner plants were numerous white-flowered Poet’s Narcissus (Narcissus poeticus) and both colour forms of the Elder-flowered Orchid (Dactylorhiza sambucina), with some flowering examples of the endemic hound’s-tongue Cynoglossum magallense. Whilst we enjoyed the perfect weather, we slowly began to process the abundance of flowers and not overlook the amazing views! © Naturetrek October 15 1 Italy's Sibillini Mountains Tour Report As we rounded a bend in the path, we came upon a massive landslip that had covered the route. We paused a while to enjoy one of the best views up the valley, from the tiny hamlet of Foce towards the summits of Monte Vettore, the highest peak in the park, and to take a chance in the rising air currents to cool a little. With the path blocked, we opted to retrace our steps and have our picnic lunch back at the rifugio. During the return a female Montagu’s Harrier was observed as she rose from the valley below to drift high overhead and on into the next valley. Back at the vehicles, we soon had lunch prepared and were able to relax and enjoy the views, followed by a coffee. We then spent the afternoon with several stops during the descent, to explore the colourful and flower- filled slopes. Numerous species of orchid were the highlight for some, with the spectacular velvety Bertoloni’s Bee Orchid (Ophrys bertolonii) the star find. Butterflies did not disappoint with numerous species seen and identified for the group. A spell of quiet contemplation sitting among the flora was enjoyed before we continued our descent. Once back on the surfaced road, we took a different return route, stopping on the way to admire a rock face with abundant drooping panicles of the Live-long Saxifrage (Saxifraga paniculata) for which the area is renowned. We then continued in a slow drive along the winding peaceful roads before our final return to Amandola. Day 3 Friday 5th June With the weather due to remain clear and sunny all day, we opted for a full day’s walking excursion into the Gola Dell’Infernaccio (Hell’s Gorge). The short drive went uneventfully, and we soon arrived at the car park where we shared out the picnic lunch among the group. Before we had set off, a Peregrine was sighted soaring high above us around the imposing crags that guard the entrance to the gorge. Once underway, the walk slowly descended down towards the Tena River where we would make the first of several crossings. At the mouth of the gorge alongside the river, we were faced with an enormous mountain of avalanche-driven snow covering the usual path. During our walk down a couple of splendid patches of Cyclamen repandum were found still flowering in the shade of the trackside bushes. The dripping cliffs above the river held large patches of Adenostyles alpina mixed with Cabbage Thistle (Cirsium oleraceum), both just coming into flower. The path-side wet flushes and streams were lined with abundant Yellow Mountain Saxifrage (Saxifraga aizoides) which was still some way from flowering. Having crossed the river we were then required to make our way rather tentatively across the huge pile of earth- covered snow to rejoin the main path, which climbed steadily into the gorge. The path narrowed rapidly as we made our way through this most dramatic and exciting route. A pair of Alpine Choughs was seen flying into their nest site, deep in the shadowy fissures of the vertical rock faces on either side of the track. One bird, having settled, could just about be detected in the gloom. Growing on the rock faces and shady fissures were several interesting plants, of particular significance, although of diminutive size, were both Moehringia muscosa and Silene pusila. The tall path side herbage comprised the attractive Perennial Honesty (Lunaria rediviva), Golden Chervil (Chaerophyllum aureum) and Large Pellitory of the Wall (Parientaria officinalis). As the gorge slowly opened out we passed into an area of deep Beech (Fagus sylvatica) woodland. Beneath the dark canopy and growing in the deep leaf litter, several species of orchid were found, alongside Lathyrus venetus and Cardamine enneaphyllos and Cardamine chelidonia. The abundant White Helleborines (Cephalanthera damasonium) 2 © Naturetrek Italy's Sibillini Mountains Tour Report and Bird’s-nest Orchids (Neottia nidus-avis) were particularly notable. The scarce and difficult-to-find Coralroot Orchid (Corallorhiza trifida) was a fortunate and exciting discovery, although it proved somewhat underwhelming for the group: its diminutive size and unassuming appearance overshadowing its fascinating myco-heterotrophic lifestyle. The path re-crossed the river a further few times, before we emerged into open meadowland dotted with flowers and with views up to the surrounding crags and slopes. We stopped here to enjoy our lunch in the sun and to identify some of the plants and butterflies around us. With lunch completed, we continued a little further to reach a ford across the river, close to its source, at which point we paused once more to spend some time relaxing and exploring the nearby environs. Butterflies here included Green-underside Blue among a profusion of Osiris and Little Blues. Our return back along our earlier route was then undertaken, adding a couple of fleeting glimpses of Dipper as it flew along the river, concealed by the heavily forested banks. As we reached the narrow gorge once more, similar glimpses were obtained of the local Grey Wagtails, although their calls could be heard penetrating the roar of the rushing water. Back at the vehicles, we drove directly back to Amandola where most of the group were able to enjoy a cookery lesson in the hotel kitchen, learning the art of making authentic gnocchi. After much hilarity and fun all agreed it had been a great experience. Day 4 Saturday 6th June For those of the group eager for some more birds, we travelled northwest outside of the park to visit the reed bed and arable fields of the Colfiorito Regional Park. Here our focus was predominantly aimed at the avian inhabitants, with plants and butterflies taking a supporting role. The journey there was a long and winding one through some wonderful mountain scenery, the roadsides along the way beckoning to be examined in detail, if only we had the time! Upon our arrival at the lake, we parked in the shade and began a slow and steady walk along its edge, passing areas of thick willow and poplar growth, before obtaining clearer views over the reeds.