WALKING IN PEMBROKESHIRE CIRCULAR WALKS IN THE NATIONAL PARK 915 Walking in Pembrokshire.indd 1 19/10/2017 12:25 About the Author Both native Lancastrians, Dennis and Jan Kelsall have long held a pas- sion for countryside and hill walking. Since their first Cicerone title was published in 1995, they have written, contributed and illustrated over 50 guides covering some of Britain’s most popular walking areas and have become regular contributors to various outdoor magazines. Their enjoy- ment of the countryside extends far beyond a love of fresh air, the freedom of open spaces and an appreciation of scenery. Over the years Dennis and Jan have developed a wider interest in the environment, its geology and wildlife, as well as an enthusiasm for delving into the local history that so often provides clues to interpreting the landscape. Other Cicerone guides by the author The Lune Valley and Howgills – A Walking Guide The Pembrokeshire Coast Path The Ribble Way The Yorkshire Dales: North and East The Yorkshire Dales: South and West 915 Walking in Pembrokshire.indd 2 19/10/2017 12:25 WALKING IN PEMBROKESHIRE CIRCULAR WALKS IN THE NATIONAL PARK Dennis and Jan Kelsall JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS, OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL www.cicerone.co.uk 915 Walking in Pembrokshire.indd 3 19/10/2017 12:25 © Dennis and Jan Kelsall 2018 Second edition 2018 ISBN: 978 1 85284 915 3 First edition 2005 Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. © Crown copyright 2018. OS PU100012932 Acknowledgements Pembrokeshire is distinct within Wales, has its own special qualities and has hung on to the separateness of its identity despite the bureaucratic urge for conglomeration over recent decades. This is a reflection of the passion emanated by its people for their county, and barely a walk went by when we did not meet somebody quietly eager to impart their local knowledge, point out secluded corners or the best place for a view and relate tales of local happenings that never appear in the history books. Such enthusiasm is infectious and greatly added to our own enjoyment in undertaking this project. Although too numerous to mention individu- ally, even if we did know all their names, we would like to express our thanks to everyone who offered us help in one way or another, from the benefit of their knowledge to a welcome cup of tea on a hot afternoon. We would particularly like to thank the staff of the national park and the County Council for their generous advice and practical assistance, and for their ongoing work in making the countryside and coast accessible. Front cover: Looking across the mouth of Aber Bach to Carreg Golchfa (Walk 15) 915 Walking in Pembrokshire.indd 4 19/10/2017 12:25 CONTENTS Map key ...................................................... 6 Overview map ................................................. 7 INTRODUCTION .............................................. 9 The legacy of the past ........................................... 10 The national park .............................................. 12 Pembrokeshire’s coast ........................................... 13 An unspoilt hinterland .......................................... 14 Things to take along ............................................ 16 Getting there ................................................. 17 Getting around ................................................ 17 Terrain and weather ............................................ 17 Tides ........................................................ 17 A changing countryside ......................................... 18 Using this guide ............................................... 18 WALKS ALONG THE COAST ..................................... 19 Walk 1 Amroth and Pleasant Valley .............................. 20 Walk 2 Manorbier ........................................... 26 Walk 3 Bosherston and the Lily Ponds ............................ 31 Walk 4 Stackpole and the Lily Ponds ............................. 34 Walk 5 The Angle Peninsula ................................... 38 Walk 6 The Dale Peninsula .................................... 44 Walk 7 Marloes Sands and the Deer Park ......................... 50 Walk 8 St Brides and Musselwick ............................... 55 Walk 9 St David’s and St Non’s ................................. 59 Walk 10 Ramsey Sound ....................................... 63 Walk 11 St David’s Head and Carn Llidi ........................... 68 Walk 12 Around Ynys Barry .................................... 73 Walk 13 Porthgain ............................................ 76 Walk 14 Aber Mawr and Penmorfa ............................... 80 Walk 15 Aber Mawr and Aber Bach .............................. 84 Walk 16 Strumble Head ....................................... 87 Walk 17 Dinas Island ......................................... 94 Walk 18 Ceibwr Bay and Pwllygranant ............................ 97 WALKS IN THE PRESELI HILLS ................................... 103 Walk 19 Foel Eryr ........................................... 104 915 Walking in Pembrokshire.indd 5 19/10/2017 12:25 Walk 20 Foel Cwmcerwyn .................................... 106 Walk 21 Carn Menyn and the ‘Bluestones’ ........................ 110 Walk 22 Foeldrygarn ......................................... 115 WALKS AROUND THE DAUGLEDDAU ............................ 119 Walk 23 Cresswell Quay and Lawrenny .......................... 120 Walk 24 Landshipping Quay ................................... 126 Walk 25 Little Milford Wood and the Western Cleddau ............... 131 Walk 26 Minwear Wood ...................................... 136 Walk 27 Blackpool Mill and Slebech Church ...................... 140 RIVERS, WOODLAND AND A LAKE .............................. 145 Walk 28 Carew Castle and Mill ................................. 146 Walk 29 Kilgetty ............................................ 150 Walk 30 Canaston Wood ..................................... 154 Walk 31 Llawhaden ......................................... 159 Walk 32 Great Treffgarne Mountain ............................. 165 Walk 33 Treffgarne Gorge ..................................... 169 Walk 34 Llys-y-frân Reservoir .................................. 174 Walk 35 Ffynone Falls and the Dulas Valley ....................... 178 Walk 36 Cwm Gwaun ........................................ 182 Walk 37 Coed Pontfaen ....................................... 186 Walk 38 Mynydd Caregog and Carn Ingli ......................... 189 Walk 39 Pentre Ifan Nature Reserve ............................. 194 Walk 40 Cilgerran and the Teifi Marshes Nature Reserve .............. 198 Appendix A Route summary table .............................. 203 Appendix B Useful information ................................ 206 Route symbols on OS map extracts Features on the overview map (for OS legend see printed OS maps) County/Unitary boundary route National Park alternative route eg Pembrokeshire Coast start/finish point 800m 600m alternative start point 400m 200m route direction 75m 0m 6 915 Walking in Pembrokshire.indd 6 19/10/2017 12:25 L E N N A H C S ’ E G R O E G . T S 2h OVERVIEW MAP Cardigan Strumble + du Head ) * cp Goodwick A487 ct Fishguard PEMBROKESHIRE & cq cs COAST ( cr % , bm Crymych $ A40 - Cynwyl St David’s A487 bu Head # Elfed St David’s cmcn !9 co A478 St Brides Bay . A40 Haverfordwest cu Narberth bqbr A4066 8 A4076 bp bo 7 A477 Milford 1 bn A4075 6 Haven bt Pendine bs Carmarthen 5 A4139 Bay Pembroke 2 Tenby 4 3 St Govan’s Location of walks Head Updates to this Guide While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone. co.uk/915/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal LA9 7RL, United Kingdom. Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk. 7 915 Walking in Pembrokshire.indd 7 19/10/2017 12:25 WALKING IN PEMBROKESHIRE The hillside below Holgan Fort is covered in gorse (Walk 31) 8 915 Walking in Pembrokshire.indd 8 19/10/2017 12:25 INTRODUCTION The view across Cwm-yr-Eglwys bay (Walk 17) Like the Finisterre of Galicia and the and sea stand in hoary confrontation, Land’s End of England, Pembrokeshire with bastions of craggy cliffs pushed (or Pen-fro) has the same meaning for back behind sweeping bays, and the Welsh, ‘the end of the land’. The innumerable tiny coves separated by southwestern-most tip of Wales, it defiant promontories. presents a similar outline to the open But not everywhere is the demar- seas as its more southerly namesakes, cation clear. Tidal estuaries and twist- with ragged peninsulas reaching out ing rivers penetrate deep into the towards the setting sun. Settled in the heartland, where steep-sided valleys earliest times, these drawn-out strips and sloping woodlands climb to a of habitation share other things too: gently undulating plateau. The coun- the