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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. our camper, a fridge for the flagon, and even OUR READERS a feed of kaimoana on occasion: arohanui, e Many thanks to the travellers who used hoa ma. the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting Peter Dragicevich anecdotes: I owe a great debt of thanks to Hamish Issy Cooper, Thais Fournier, Omar Hasan, Blennerhassett, Harry and Ngaio Tyler, and all the Tyler cousins for their help and companion- Beverly Ladyman and Kirsty Smith ship during the research of this book. But above all, I’d like to thank Errol Hunt – editor AUTHOR THANKS extraordinaire, all-round great guy, origin ator of the ‘four more years’ chant at the 2011 Brett Atkinson Rugby World Cup final, and the person most Thanks to all of the i-SITE, DOC and responsible for making the New Zealand information centre staff who patiently guides so successful over many successive answered all my questions. Cheers to the editions. clever craft brewers of New Zealand for sustenance on the road, and to Carol for Charles Rawlings-Way support on occasional forays via the back Thanks to the many generous, knowledgeable roads. Thanks to my fellow authors, the most and quietly self-assured Kiwis I met on the professional and wittiest bunch one could road, especially the staff at the Palmerston aspire to work with, and huge thanks and North, Hastings and New Plymouth i-SITEs friendship to the mighty Errol Hunt. who flew through my questions with the greatest of ease. Huge thanks to Errol Hunt Sarah Bennett & Lee Slater for signing me up (again), and the in-house Thanks to everyone who helped us on the road, Lonely Planet staff who schmoozed this book including RTO and visitor information centre through production. Humongous gratitude to staff, tourism operators and travellers. Special my tireless, witty and professional co-authors − thanks to DOC staff, especially Penny McIntosh Sarah, Peter, Brett and Lee − who infused this and Katrina Henderson. Big ups to everyone book with humour and local low-down. Most of in-house at Lonely Planet, and to our fellow all, thank you Meg, Ione and Remy for holding authors – Brett, Charles and Peter. Thanks also the fort while I was away. to Sarah Ewing. To all who provided a park for 348 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System BEHIND THE SCENES Sciences, 11, 1633¬44. Cover photograph: Cascade Saddle, Mt Aspiring National Park, Colin Monteath/ Corbis © This guidebook was Assisting Editors THIS BOOK commissioned in Lonely Nigel Chin, Samantha Forge, This 4th edition of Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office, Jeanette Wall Planet’s New Zealand’s and produced by the following: Cover Researcher South Island guidebook was Commissioning Editors Naomi Parker coordinated by Brett Atkinson, Errol Hunt, Glenn van der Knijff and researched and written Thanks to Elin Berglund, by Brett, Sarah Bennett, Peter Destination Editor Tasmin Waby Brendan Dempsey, Dragicevich, Charles Rawlings- Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Way and Lee Slater. It includes Product Editor Anna Harris, Genesys India, some content from the 17th Catherine Naghten Jouve India, Claire Naylor, edition of the New Zealand Senior Cartographer Karyn Noble, Alison Ridgway, guide, coordinated by Charles Diana Von Holdt Eleanor Simpson, Tracy Rawlings-Way. Book Designer Whitmey Wendy Wright ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 349 Index A beer 21-2, see also breweries Kaikoura 69 Charleston 101, 106 Abel Tasman National Park bicycle travel, see cycling Manapouri 264 children, travel with 324-5 9, 84-7, 85, 8 birds 298, see Marlborough Sounds 56 Christchurch 141 accommodation also individual species Milford Sound 262 Queenstown 226 33-5, 322-4, see bird-watching 298, 299 Nelson 74 Christchurch 48, 129, also individual locations Kaikoura 69 Okarito 117 132-49, 132, 136-7 activities, see individual Okarito 117 Otago Peninsula 204 accommodation 140-3 activities Stewart Island/Rakiura Pelorus River 61 activities 135, 138-9 Adams Flat 104 279, 280 Punakaiki 106 children, travel with 141 air travel 335, 336-7 Blackball 110-11 Stewart Island/Rakiura drinking & nightlife 145-6 Akaroa 11, 150-6, 152, 25 Blenheim 62-6 280 earthquakes 135 Alexandra 209-10 Blue Lake 208 Tata Beach 90 entertainment 146 animals 297, 299, see also blue penguins 185-6, 189 Wanaka 243, 244 festivals & events 140 individual species Bluff 271 Canterbury 48, 128-80, 130-1 food 143-5 Aoraki/Mt Cook National boat travel 336, 337-8 accommodation 128 history 129, 135 Park 174-9, 176, 31 Bob’s Bay 52 climate 128 itineraries 134 area codes 19, 331 books 30, 284, 299, 309, 315 food 128 shopping 147 Arrowtown 237-41, 238 breweries 21-2 highlights 130-1 sights 129-35 art galleries, see museums Dunedin 193, 195 & galleries travel seasons 128 tourist offices 147-8 Greymouth 108 Arthur’s Pass village 162 canyoning tours 140 Invercargill 267 arts 315-20, see Abel Tasman National travel to/from 148 Mapua 80 also individual arts Park 87 travel within 148-50 Motueka 81 ATMs 329 Geraldine 168 churches & cathedrals Nelson 78 Queenstown 222 Christ Church Wanaka 241 Wanaka 243 Cathedral 73 B Buller Gorge 97-8 car travel 339-42 Church of the Good Banks Peninsula 150-6, 151 Buller region 97-105 Cardrona 249 Shepherd 172 Barrytown 107 bungy jumping 41 Cascade Creek 261 Sacred Heart Basilica 170 bathrooms 332 Hanmer Springs 158 cathedrals, see churches St Patrick’s Basilica 188 beaches 20 Queenstown 218-19 & cathedrals St Patrick’s Catholic Caroline Bay 169 bus travel 338-9, 342 Catlins 16, 271-5, 272, 16 Church (Akaroa) 152 Colquhouns Beach 241 bushwalking, see tramping caving 41-2 St Patrick’s Catholic Church (Arrowbank) Christchurch 138 business hours 330 Cathedral Caves 273 237 Dunedin 196 Cave Stream Scenic St Peter’s Anglican Frasers Beach 264 Reserve 162 Church 217 Gentle Annie Beach 103 C Cavern Creek Caves 104 Campion, Jane 236 St Stephen’s Church 167 Gillespies Beach 124 Charleston 101 Transitional Cathedral Oreti Beach 267 Cannibal Bay 274 Crazy Paving & Box 134 Scotts Beach 104 canoeing & kayaking 46 Canyon Caves 104 cinema 284, 309, 316 Tahuna Beach 73 Abel Tasman National Harwood’s Hole 88 Park 86, 87 Cleddau Valley 261 Tata Beach 90 Honeycomb Hill Caves climate 18, 23-6, 325, see Aoraki/Mt Cook National & Arch 104 Wharariki Beach 91 Park 177 also individual regions Ngarua Caves 88 Banks Peninsula 153 climate change 335 Rawhiti Cave 88 Christchurch 135, 138-9 climbing, see rock climbing Te Anau Glowworm Clyde 210-11 Map Pages 000 Doubtful Sound 265 Caves 253 Photo Pages 000 Franz Joseph Glacier 119 cell phones 18, 331 Colac Bay 266 350 Collingwood 91-2 driving, see car travel Kaikoura Seafest 26 G consulates 326 Dunedin 48, 192-202, Marlborough Wine galleries, see museums Cook, Captain James 192-3, 194 Festival 23, 62 & galleries 289, 287 accommodation 197-8 Nelson Arts Festival gardens, see parks & Copland Valley 125 activities 196-7 26, 75 gardens crayfish 71 drinking & nightlife 200-1 Nelson Jazz & Blues gay travellers 326-7 INDEX credit cards 329 entertainment 201 Festival 23, 75 geology 296-7 Cromwell 211-13 food 198-200 New Zealand Geraldine 167-8 International Crowded House 319 shopping 201 giardia 327 Comedy Festival 24 C- culture 310-14 sights 192-3, 195-6 glaciers 118 New Zealand H Fox Glacier 11, 122-5, Curio Bay 272 tourist offices 201-2 International , curling 207 travel to/from 202 Film Festivals 25 123 44 Franz Josef Glacier 11, currency 18, 329 travel within 202 NZ Cup & Show Week 118-22, , customs regulations 325 Duntroon 184-5 26, 140 120 10 Glenorchy 233-7 cycling 42, 337, see D’Urville Island 56, 60 Oamaru Victorian also mountain biking DVDs 329 Heritage Celebrations gliding 183 Alps 2 Ocean Cycle 26, 189 Glowworm Dell 112 Trail 178 Oamaru Wine & Food Golden Bay 88-92 Banks Peninsula 153 E Festival 189 golf 243 earthquakes 135, 284, 297 Christchurch 139 Queenstown Bike Gore 270 economy 284, 311, 312 Clyde 211 Festival 226 Governors Bay 150 electricity 326, 329 Dunedin 197 Queenstown Winter Granity 103 embassies 326 Festival 24, 226 Great Taste Trail 79 Great Coast Road, The emergencies 19 Rippon Festival 23, 245 Kaikoura 70 105-7 environment 296-302 Timaru Festival of Marlborough Sounds 56 Great Walks 21, 32, 33 etiquette 284 Roses 170 Middlemarch 205 Abel Tasman Coast events, see festivals Waipara Wine & Food Track 84-7 Nelson 73 & events Festival 161 Heaphy Track 92-3, 104 Nga Haerenga, New exchange rates 19 Wanaka