©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 347

Behind the Scenes

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our camper, a fridge for the flagon, and even OUR READERS a feed of kaimoana on occasion: arohanui, e Many thanks to the travellers who used hoa ma. the last edition and wrote to us with ­helpful hints, useful advice and interesting Peter Dragicevich ­anecdotes: I owe a great debt of thanks to Hamish Issy Cooper, Thais Fournier, Omar Hasan, ­Blennerhassett, Harry and Ngaio Tyler, and all the Tyler cousins for their help and companion­ Beverly Ladyman and Kirsty Smith ship during the research of this book. But above all, I’d like to thank Errol Hunt – editor AUTHOR THANKS extraordinaire, all-round great guy, ­origin­ator of the ‘four more years’ chant at the 2011 Brett Atkinson Rugby World Cup final, and the person most Thanks to all of the i-SITE, DOC and ­responsible for making the New Zealand ­information centre staff who patiently guides so successful over many ­successive ­answered all my questions. Cheers to the ­editions. ­clever craft brewers of New Zealand for ­sustenance on the road, and to Carol for Charles Rawlings-Way ­support on occasional forays via the back Thanks to the many generous, knowledgeable roads. Thanks to my fellow authors, the most and quietly self-assured Kiwis I met on the professional and wittiest bunch one could road, especially the staff at the Palmerston ­aspire to work with, and huge thanks and North, Hastings and New Plymouth i-SITEs friendship to the mighty Errol Hunt. who flew through my questions with the greatest of ease. Huge thanks to Errol Hunt Sarah Bennett & Lee Slater for signing me up (again), and the in-house Thanks to everyone who helped us on the road, Lonely Planet staff who schmoozed this book including RTO and visitor information centre through production. Humongous gratitude to staff, tourism operators and travellers. Special my ­tireless, witty and professional co-authors − thanks to DOC staff, especially Penny McIntosh Sarah, Peter, Brett and Lee − who infused this and Katrina Henderson. Big ups to everyone book with humour and local low-down. Most of in-house at Lonely Planet, and to our fellow all, thank you Meg, Ione and Remy for holding ­authors – Brett, Charles and Peter. Thanks also the fort while I was away. to Sarah Ewing. To all who provided a park for 348 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Sciences, 11, 1633¬44.

Cover photograph: Cascade Saddle, Mt Aspiring National Park, Colin Monteath/ Corbis ©

This guidebook was Assisting Editors THIS BOOK ­commissioned in Lonely Nigel Chin, Samantha Forge, This 4th edition of Lonely Planet’s ­Melbourne office, ­Jeanette Wall Planet’s New Zealand’s and ­produced by the following: Cover Researcher South Island guidebook was Commissioning Editors Naomi Parker ­coordinated by Brett Atkinson, Errol Hunt, Glenn van der Knijff and researched and written Thanks to Elin Berglund, by Brett, Sarah Bennett, Peter Destination Editor Tasmin Waby Brendan Dempsey, Dragicevich, Charles Rawlings- Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Way and Lee Slater. It ­includes Product Editor Anna ­Harris, Genesys India, some content from the 17th Catherine Naghten Jouve India, Claire Naylor, edition of the New Zealand Senior Cartographer Karyn Noble, Alison ­Ridgway, guide, coordinated by Charles Diana Von Holdt Eleanor Simpson, Tracy Rawlings-Way. Book Designer Whitmey Wendy Wright ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 349

Index

A beer 21-2, see­ also breweries Kaikoura 69 Charleston 101, 106 Abel Tasman National Park bicycle travel, see cycling Manapouri 264 children, travel with 324-5 9, 84-7, 85, 8 birds 298, see Marlborough Sounds 56 Christchurch 141 accommodation also­ individual species Milford Sound 262 Queenstown 226 33-5, 322-4, see bird-watching 298, 299 Nelson 74 Christchurch 48, 129, also­ individual locations Kaikoura 69 Okarito 117 132-49, 132, 136-7 activities, see­ individual Okarito 117 Otago Peninsula 204 accommodation 140-3 activities Stewart Island/Rakiura Pelorus River 61 activities 135, 138-9 Adams Flat 104 279, 280 Punakaiki 106 children, travel with 141 air travel 335, 336-7 Blackball 110-11 Stewart Island/Rakiura drinking & nightlife 145-6 Akaroa 11, 150-6, 152, 25 Blenheim 62-6 280 earthquakes 135 Alexandra 209-10 Blue Lake 208 Tata Beach 90 entertainment 146 animals 297, 299, see also blue penguins 185-6, 189 Wanaka 243, 244 festivals & events 140 ­individual species Bluff 271 Canterbury 48, 128-80, 130-1 food 143-5 Aoraki/Mt Cook National boat travel 336, 337-8 accommodation 128 history 129, 135 Park 174-9, 176, 31 Bob’s Bay 52 climate 128 itineraries 134 area codes 19, 331 books 30, 284, 299, 309, 315 food 128 shopping 147 Arrowtown 237-41, 238 breweries 21-2 highlights 130-1 sights 129-35 art galleries, see museums Dunedin 193, 195 & galleries travel seasons 128 tourist offices 147-8 Greymouth 108 Arthur’s Pass village 162 canyoning tours 140 Invercargill 267 arts 315-20, see Abel Tasman National travel to/from 148 Mapua 80 also­ individual arts Park 87 travel within 148-50 Motueka 81 ATMs 329 Geraldine 168 churches & cathedrals Nelson 78 Queenstown 222 Christ Church ­ Wanaka 241 Wanaka 243 Cathedral 73 B Buller Gorge 97-8 car travel 339-42 Church of the Good Banks Peninsula 150-6, 151 Buller region 97-105 Cardrona 249 Shepherd 172 Barrytown 107 bungy jumping 41 Cascade Creek 261 Sacred Heart Basilica 170 bathrooms 332 Hanmer Springs 158 cathedrals, see churches St Patrick’s Basilica 188 beaches 20 Queenstown 218-19 & cathedrals St Patrick’s Catholic Caroline Bay 169 bus travel 338-9, 342 Catlins 16, 271-5, 272, 16 Church (Akaroa) 152 Colquhouns Beach 241 bushwalking, see tramping caving 41-2 St Patrick’s Catholic Church (Arrowbank) Christchurch 138 business hours 330 Cathedral Caves 273 237 Dunedin 196 Cave Stream Scenic St Peter’s Anglican Frasers Beach 264 Reserve 162 Church 217 Gentle Annie Beach 103 C Cavern Creek Caves 104 Campion, Jane 236 St Stephen’s Church 167 Gillespies Beach 124 Charleston 101 Transitional Cathedral Oreti Beach 267 Cannibal Bay 274 Crazy Paving & Box 134 Scotts Beach 104 canoeing & kayaking 46 Canyon Caves 104 cinema 284, 309, 316 Tahuna Beach 73 Abel Tasman National Harwood’s Hole 88 Park 86, 87 Cleddau Valley 261 Tata Beach 90 Honeycomb Hill Caves climate 18, 23-6, 325, see Aoraki/Mt Cook National & Arch 104 Wharariki Beach 91 Park 177 also individual regions Ngarua Caves 88 Banks Peninsula 153 climate change 335 Rawhiti Cave 88 Christchurch 135, 138-9 climbing, see rock climbing Te Anau Glowworm Clyde 210-11 Map Pages 000 Doubtful Sound 265 Caves 253 Photo Pages 000 Franz Joseph Glacier 119 cell phones 18, 331 Colac Bay 266 350 Collingwood 91-2 driving, see car travel Kaikoura Seafest 26 G consulates 326 Dunedin 48, 192-202, Marlborough Wine galleries, see museums Cook, Captain James 192-3, 194 Festival 23, 62 & galleries 289, 287 accommodation 197-8 Nelson Arts Festival gardens, see parks & Copland Valley 125 activities 196-7 26, 75 gardens crayfish 71 drinking & nightlife 200-1 Nelson Jazz & Blues gay travellers 326-7

INDEX INDEX credit cards 329 entertainment 201 Festival 23, 75 geology 296-7 Cromwell 211-13 food 198-200 New Zealand Geraldine 167-8 ­International Crowded House 319 shopping 201 giardia 327 Comedy Festival 24 C- culture 310-14 sights 192-3, 195-6 glaciers 118  New Zealand ,H Fox Glacier 11, 122-5  Curio Bay 272 tourist offices 201-2 ­International , curling 207 travel to/from 202 Film Festivals 25 123 44 Franz Josef Glacier 11, currency 18, 329 travel within 202 NZ Cup & Show Week 118-22, , customs regulations 325 Duntroon 184-5 26, 140 120 10 Glenorchy 233-7 cycling 42, 337, see D’Urville Island 56, 60 Oamaru Victorian also mountain biking DVDs 329 Heritage Celebrations gliding 183 Alps 2 Ocean Cycle 26, 189 Glowworm Dell 112 Trail 178 Oamaru Wine & Food Golden Bay 88-92 Banks Peninsula 153 E Festival 189 golf 243 earthquakes 135, 284, 297 Christchurch 139 Queenstown Bike Gore 270 economy 284, 311, 312 Clyde 211 Festival 226 Governors Bay 150 electricity 326, 329 Dunedin 197 Queenstown Winter Granity 103 embassies 326 Festival 24, 226 Great Taste Trail 79 Great Coast Road, The emergencies 19 Rippon Festival 23, 245 Kaikoura 70 105-7 environment 296-302 Timaru Festival of Marlborough Sounds 56 Great Walks 21, 32, 33 etiquette 284 Roses 170 Middlemarch 205 Abel Tasman Coast events, see festivals Waipara Wine & Food Track 84-7 Nelson 73 & events Festival 161 Heaphy Track 92-3, 104 Nga Haerenga, New exchange rates 19 Wanaka Fest 26, 245 ­Zealand Cycle Trail 42 Kepler Track 257-8, extreme sports 22, 41-6, Warbirds over Wanaka 264, 257 Oamaru 188-9 see also individual 24, 245 Milford Track 258, 260, Otago Central Rail sports Wildfoods Festival 259, 21, 31 Trail 11, 206, 11, 43 23, 114 Rakiura Track 279 Takaka 88 World Buskers’ Festival Routeburn Track 234, Te Anau 255 F Fairlie 171-2 23, 140 235 Te Ara a Waiau Walkway/ films 284, 309, 316 Farewell Spit 91 Greymouth 108-10, 109 Cycleway 118 Finn brothers 319 Te Weheka Walkway/ festivals & events 23-6 Greymouth region 108-12 Fiordland 48, 253-65, 252 Cycleway 122 Art Deco Festival 206 accommodation 251 West Coast Wilderness Big Gay Out 327 climate 251 H Trail 111 Bluff Oyster & Food Haast Pass Highway 127 Festival 24, 271 food 251 Haast region 125-7 Christchurch Arts highlights 252 haka 308 D Festival 25, 140 travel seasons 251 dangers, see safety hang gliding 42, 221 Christmas Carnival 170 fishing Denniston Plateau 100 Hanmer Springs 157-60, Clyde Wine & Food Kaikoura 69-70 disabilities, travellers 158 Festival 24, 211 Queenstown 222 with 332 Hari Hari 116 Coast-to-Coast race 111 Stewart Island/Rakiura distance chart 339 Havelock 60 Driftwood & Sand 114 280 Divide, the 261 health 327-8 Ellerslie Flower Show Wanaka 243, 244 diving 46 Heaphy Track 92-3, 104 23-4, 140 food & drink 22, 326, Hector 103 Kaikoura 67 Festa 140 see also individual Milford Sound 262 Festival of Flowers 140 locations Hector’s dolphins 169, 266 dolphins 56, 69, 169, 266, French Fest 26, 154 Fort Taiaroa 203 heliskiing 40 271, 299, 10 Garden City Fortrose 272 hiking, see tramping Doubtful Sound 264-5 ­SummerTimes 140 Fox Glacier 11, 122-5, Hillary, Sir Edmund 311 Gay Ski Week 226, 327 123, 44 history 20, 286-95 Gibbston Wine & Food Franz Josef Glacier 11, hitching 342 Festival 24, 225 118-22, 120, 10 Hokitika 112-15, 113 Map Pages 000 Gold Guitar Week 24, French Pass 56, 60 holidays 330 Photo Pages 000 270 Hollyford Track 260 351 Hollyford Valley 261 Kenepuru 60-1 Mapua 79-80, 80 Mt Tutoko 261 Homer Tunnel 261 Kepler Track 257-8, 264 marae 306 Murchison 97-8 Hope Arm 264 257 Marahau 83-4 museums & galleries 20-1 horse riding 42 Key Summit 261 markets 22, 327 1066 – A Medieval Aoraki/Mt Cook kiteboarding 46, 74 Marlborough region 47, Mosaic 167 National Park 177 kiwis 217, 280, 298, 299 52-72, 51, 63, 2, 21, 25 Aigantighe Art ­Gallery

Blenheim 62 Knights Point 125 accommodation 50 170 INDEX Cardrona 249 Kohaihai 104 climate 50 Akaroa Museum 152 Catlins 272 Kumara 111-12 food 50 Anderson Park Art

-Gallery 267  H­ Collingwood 91 Kurow 184-5 highlights 51

Andris Apse Wilderness  M Franz Joseph Glacier 120 history 52 Gallery 117 Glenorchy 235 travel seasons 50 L Blacks Point Museum 99 Lake Tekapo 172 Marlborough Sounds Lake Brunner 111 Bluff Maritime Museum Marahau 83-4 56-7, Lake Gunn 261 58 271 Peel Forest 167 Marlborough Wine & Lake Hanlon 103 Bushman’s Museum 266 Port Chalmers 203 Food Festival 23, 62 Lake Hauroko 265 Canterbury Museum 132 Punakaiki 106 measures 329 Lake Hawea 249-50 Catlins Info Centre & Springfield 163 medical services 327 Lake Kaniere 112 Owaka Museum 274 hypothermia 328 Methven 164-6 Lake Mahinapua 116 Central Stories 209 Middlemarch 205-6 Lake Matheson 124 Clyde Historical Milford Sound 13, 262-3, 13 Lake Mistletoe 261 ­Museums 210-11 I Milford Track 258, 260, ice skating 222 Lake Moeraki 125 Coaltown Museum 100 259, 21, 31 immigration 335 Collingwood Museum 91 Lake Pukaki 173 Mirror Lakes 261 insurance 328 Lake Roxburgh 210 Dunedin Public Art moa 287, 298 ­Gallery 193 car & motorcycle 341 Lake Tekapo 172-4, 5 Moana 111 Eastern Southland health 327 Lake Wilkie 273 mobile phones 18, 331 ­Gallery 270 internet access 328 Land Wars 293 Moeraki 191 Edwin Fox Maritime internet resources 19, language 18, 290, 343-6 Molesworth Station 159 Museum 52 30, 37 Larnach Castle 204 money 18, 19, 325, 329-30 Fairlie Heritage Invercargill 267-71, 268 Lauder 208-9 Monkey Island 266 Museum 171 itineraries 27-8, 27, 28 legal matters 328 Moriori people 287 Forrester Gallery 188 Christchurch 134 lesbian travellers 326-7 motorcycle travel 339-42 Founders Heritage Queenstown 219 Park 73 Lewis Pass 156-7 motorsports 212 Geraldine Historical Ligar Bay 90 Motuara Island 56 literature 309, 315 Museum 168 J Motueka 80-3, 81 Giant’s House 151-2 Jackson Bay 126 Lord of the Rings, The 316 mountain biking 42 Lorde 317 Golden Bay Museum jetboating 46, 43 Arrowtown 237-8 & Gallery 88 luge 222 Buller Gorge 98 Clutha Gold Trail 209 Gore Historical Cromwell 212 Lyell 101 Fairlie 171 Museum 270 Glenorchy 235 Lyttelton 149-50 Franz Joseph Glacier 121 History House Hanmer Springs 158 Hanmer Springs 158 Museum 108 Humpridge 266 M Kaiteriteri 83 Hokitika Craft Gallery 114 Makarora 250 Macetown 237 Nelson 73 Hokitika Glass Studio 114 Queenstown 219 Mackay Creek 261 Old Ghost Road 101 Hokitika Museum 112 Te Anau 255 Makarora 250 Otago Central Rail Trail Hokonui Moonshine Wanaka 243 Manapouri 263-4 206 Museum 270 Maori culture Queenstown 221-2 Jagosi Jade 114 Roxburgh Gorge Trail 209 Kaikoura Museum 67 K arts 305-9, 315, 17 language 290, 343-5 Wanaka 243, 244 Lake District Museum & Kahurangi National Gallery 237 Park 92-3 literature 315 mountaineering 45, 241-3 Left Bank Art Gallery 108 Kaikoura 9, 66-72, regional highlights 53, Moutere 80 68 Lost Gypsy Gallery 273 Kaiteriteri 83 98, 157, 184, 218 Mt Aspiring National Park 244 Marlborough Museum 62 Kaka Point 275 rock painting 185 Mt Cook, see Aoraki/ Motueka District Karamea 103-5 Maori people 17, 20, 303-9, 312 Mt Cook National Park Museum 80-1 kauri trees 300 history 286-7, 290-3, Mt Iron 241 Murchison Museum 97 kayaking, see canoeing 303-4 National Transport & & kayaking Mt John 172 maps 30-5, 329 Toy Museum 241 kea 299 Mt Somers 166 352 museums & galleries Kahurangi National P public holidays 330 continued Park 92-3 paddle boarding 74 pubs 21-2 Nelson Provincial Lake Mahinapua Scenic painting 316-17 Punakaiki 106-7 Museum 73 Reserve 116 Papatowai 273 North Otago Museum Mt Aspiring National 188 Park 244 Paradise 233 Q Okains Bay Maori & Nelson Lakes National paragliding 42 Queen Charlotte Drive 56 INDEX INDEX ­Colonial Museum Park 93-4 Nelson 74 Queen Charlotte Track 152-3 North Beach Reserve Queenstown 219, 221 58-60 Omaka Aviation Heritage 100 Wanaka 243 Queenstown 12, 48, 215-33, M-R Centre 62 Paparoa National Park parasailing 46, 221 215, 216, 220, 224  Otago Museum 195-6 106-7

,parks & gardens accommodation 214  Picton Museum 53 Pisa Conservation Botanic Gardens 129 226-9 Area 249 Quake City 133 Caroline Bay Park 169 activities 37-8, 217-22 Riccarton Bush 134 Rakiura Museum 278 Dunedin Botanic Garden children, travel with 226 Shantytown 108 Ruataniwha 196 climate 214 ­Conservation Park 180 Sir Edmund Hillary Giant’s House 151-2 drinking & nightlife 231-2 Victoria Forest Park 99 Alpine Centre 175 Glenfalloch Woodland entertainment 232 South Canterbury Westland Tai Poutini Garden 204 festivals & events 225-6 National Park 117-25 Museum 170 Hagley Park 132 food 214, 229-31 South Street Gallery 73 Wither Hills Farm Park 62 Oamaru Public Gardens highlights 215 Southland Museum 188 history 215-16 & Art Gallery 267 Nelson 72-9, 74 Queens Gardens 73 itineraries 219 Steampunk HQ 187 Nelson Lakes National Park 93-4 Queens Park 267 shopping 232 Suter Art Gallery 73 Queenstown Gardens Nelson region 72-94, 51 sights 216-17 Te Ana Maori Rock Art 217 Centre 169-70 accommodation 50 tourist offices 232 Riccarton Bush 134 Tectonic Jade 114 climate 50 tours 222-5 Timaru Botanic Gardens food 50 travel to/from 232-3 Toitu Otago Settlers 170 Museum 192-3 highlights 51 travel seasons 214 Tree Crop Farm 152 Vanished World travel seasons 50 travel within 233 passports 335 Centre 185 newspapers 329 Queenstown Winter Peel Forest 166-7 Vintage Car & Machinery New Zealand Wars 293 Festival 24, 226 Pelorus Bridge 61 Museum 167 Nga Haerenga, New Waewae Pounamu 114 Pelorus Sounds 60-1 ­Zealand Cycle Trail 42 R Warbirds & Wheels 241 Ngakawau 103 penguins 185-7, 188, 189, 204, 271 Rabbit Island 79 World of WearableArt Nugget Point 274 & Classic Cars phonecards 331 radio 329 ­Museum 76 Picton 52-8, 54 rafting, see white-water music 317-20 O Piopiotahi 262-3 rafting Oamaru 15, 185-91, 186, 15 planning, see Rainbow Warrior 294, Oamaru Victorian Heritage also­ individual regions 295, 311 N Celebrations 26, 189 activities 29-35, 36-40, Rakiura 275-82, 276, 278 Naseby 207-8 Oban, see Stewart Island/ 41-6, 33, 37 Rakiura Track 279 national parks & Rakiura budgeting 18-19, 322, Ranfurly 206-7 reserves 300-2, 301 Okarito 116-17 326 Rapahoe 107 Abel Tasman National Omakau 208-9 calendar of events 23-6 Reefton 98-100 Park 9, 84-7, 85, 8 Omarama 183-4 internet resources 19 Rees Valley 236 Aoraki/Mt Cook National Oparara Valley 104 Park 174-9, 176, 31 itineraries 27-8, 134, 219 Remarkables, the 12, 39, 12 , Arthur’s Pass National opening hours 330 27 28 reserves, see national Park 163 Ophir 208-9 South Island basics 18-19 parks & reserves Canaan Downs Scenic Otago 11, 48, 181-213, 182 South Island’s regions restrooms 332 Reserve 88 accommodation 181 47-8 Riverstone 190 Catlins 16, 271-5, 272, 16 climate 181 travel seasons 18-19, 23-6 Riverton 266-7 Craigieburn Forest food 181 Pohara 90-1 road distance chart 339 Park 162-3 highlights 182 politics 285, 295 Roaring Bay 274 Hanmer Forest Park 158 travel seasons 181 population 285 rock climbing 45, 218, 243 Hinewai Reserve 153 Otago Central Rail Trail 11, Porpoise Bay 272 Ross 116 206, 11, 43 Port Chalmers 202-3 Routeburn Track 234, 235 Otago Peninsula 12, 203-5, possums 300 Roxburgh 210 Map Pages 000 , 192-3 13 postal services 330 Ruataniwha Conservation Photo Pages 000 Owaka 274 Pounawea 274 Park 180 353 Ruby Bay Scenic Route 80 Stockton 103 Ellery Creek Walkway 126 Rakiura Track 279 rugby 16, 310, 314 Surat Bay 274 Fenian Track 104 Rameka Track 88 surfing 45 Floodwall Walk 108 Rees-Dart Track 234-5 Catlins 272 Fox River Cave Walk 106 Rob Roy Glacier Track S 244 safety 328, 330-1 Dunedin 196 Gibbston River Trail 223 Roberts Point Track 119 hitching 342 Kaikoura 67 Gillespie Pass 250 sustainable travel 34 Godley Head Walkway 139 Routeburn Nature INDEX road 342 Walk 233 tramping 30 Greenstone Track 234, 235 Routeburn Track 234, sailing 87, 153 235 -T Hapuka Estuary Walk 126  R scuba diving, see diving ta moko 305-6

Sealy Tarns Track 176  V Hari Hari Coastal Walk seals & sea lions 57, 67, 69, Taieri Gorge Railway 196 116 Smoothwater Bay 100-1, 188, 271 Track 126 Takaka 88-90 Heaphy Track 92-3, 104 Seddonville 101, 103 Snout Track 52 Tarakohe Harbour 90 Hokitika Heritage Selwyn 162-4 Taramea Bay 266 Walk 112 St Arnaud Range Track 93 senior travellers 325 Tasman Glacier & Lake 175 Hollyford Track 260 St James Walkway 157 Ship Cove 56 tattoos 305-6 Hooker Valley Track Ship Creek 125 Tautuku Bay 273 175-6 Takaka Hill Walkway 88 skiing & snowboarding 14, taxes 336 Hump Ridge Track 266 Tasman Glacier View Track 175 22, 36-40, 37 taxis 342 Inland Pack Track 106 Aoraki/Mt Cook National Tatare Tunnels 119 Te Anau 253-7, 254 Ka Roimata o Hine Te Ara a Waiau Walkway/ Park 177 Hukatere Walk 118 Te Anau Downs 261 Cycleway 118 Canterbury 39-40, 165 Kahikatea Swamp Forest Te Anau-Milford Hwy 260-1 Te Weheka Walkway/ Cardrona 249 Walk 125 Te Araroa 35 Cycleway 122 Hanmer Springs 158-9 Kaikoura Coast Track 70 Te Waewae Bay 266 Tiki Trail 218 Methven 164 Kaikoura Peninsula Te Waikoropupu Springs 88 Tirohanga Track 52 Mt Hutt 165 Walkway 67 telephone services 18, Truman Track 106 Otago 40 Karamea Estuary 19, 331 Tunnel Beach Walkway Queenstown & Wanaka Walkway 103 Three Mile Lagoon 117 196 37-8, 241-3, 249, Kea Point Track 176 Timaru 168-71, 169 Wangapeka Track 104 14, 38 Kepler Track 257-8, time 18, 331 Water Race Walk 116 Selwyn 162 264, 257 toilets 332 skydiving 45-6 Lake Angelus Track 94 Wentworth Bridge tourist information 332 Loop 223 Fox Glacier 124 Lake Gunn Nature West Coast Treetops train travel 342 Walk 261 Franz Joseph Glacier 119 Walkway 116 Geraldine 168 tramping 21, 29-35, 33 Lake Sylvan tramp 233 Abel Tasman Coast Track West Matukituki Valley Glenorchy 235 Mahinapua Walkway 116 84-7 Track 244 Methven 165 Marlborough Sounds 56 Alex Knob Track 119 Wharekai Te Kou Motueka 81 Milford Track 258, 260, Walk 126 Alexandra-Clyde 150th 259, 21, 31 Queenstown 219 Anniversary Walk 209 Wilkin Valley Track 250 Minaret Burn Track 241 TranzAlpine Railway 13, Wanaka 243 Arrow River Bridges Minnehaha Walk 122 108, snorkelling 57 Track 237 13 Moraine Walk 122 travel to/from snowboarding, see skiing & Banks Peninsula Track New Zealand 335-6 snowboarding 153 Mt Cargill-Bethunes Gully Walkway 196-7 travel within Southern Scenic Route Ben Lomond Track 218 Mt Robert Circuit New Zealand 336-42 265-7 Blue Pools Walk 250 Track 93 Treaty of Waitangi 290, 291 Southland 48, 265-82, 252 Bridal Track 250 Mt Somers track 166 trees 300 accommodation 251 Callery Gorge Walk 119 climate 251 North West Circuit trekking, see tramping Cape Foulwind Walkway Track 279 Tuatapere 265-6 food 251 100-1 Nydia Track 61 TV 316, 329 highlights 252 Caples Track 234, 235 Old Ghost Road 101 Twizel 179-80 travel seasons 251 Charming Creek Oparara Valley Track 104 spelunking, see caving ­Walkway 103 Point Elizabeth Split Enz 319 Circle Track 264 Walkway 108 U sports 285, 314, see Coast to Coast 279 Punakaiki-Porari Loop 106 Ulva Island 277-8, 15 also­ individual sports Copland Track 125 Pupu Hydro Walkway 88 Springfield 162 Croesus Track 111 Queen Charlotte Track V St Bathans 208 Douglas Walk 119 58-9 vacations 330 Stewart Island/Rakiura Dune Lake Walk 125 Queenstown Hill visas 18, 332 275-82, 276, 278 Dusky Track 264 ­Walkway 218 volunteering 333 354 W travel seasons 95 Seifried 79-80 Orokonui ­Ecosanctuary Waikawa 273 Westland 112-17 Waimea 79 203 Waimangaroa 103 Westland Tai Poutini Waipara Valley 161 Nature’s Wonders Naturally 203 Wainui Bay 90 National Park 117-25 Wanaka 241 Penguin Place 204 Waipara Valley 161 Westport 100-3 Woollaston 80 Point Kean Seal Waitaki Valley 184-5 whales 68-9, 299, 9 women in NZ 311

INDEX INDEX Colony 67 walks, see tramping Whataroa 116 women travellers 333 Royal Albatross whitebait 114 work 333-4 Wanaka 48, 214, 215, 241-8, Centre 203 215, 242 white-water rafting 46 World Buskers Festival Wai Ariki Farm Park 157 W-Z wars 293 Buller Gorge 97 23, 140  West Coast Wildlife waterfalls Franz Joseph Glacier WWOOF 323 Centre 118  Fantail Falls 127 119-20 Hanmer Springs 158 Willowbank Wildlife Humboldt Falls 261 Reserve 135 Kaikoura 67 Y Matai Falls 274 yellow-eyed penguins McLean Falls 273 Peel Forest 167 ­186-7, 188, 189, 204, 271 Purakaunui Falls 274 Queenstown 219 Thunder Creek Falls 127 Wanaka 243 Z Wainui Falls 90 wi-fi 328 ziplining 222 weather 18, 23-6, 325, see Wildfoods Festival 23, 114 zoos & wildlife reserves also individual regions wildlife 297-99, see DOC Te Anau Wildlife websites 19, 30, 37 also­ individual species Centre 253 weights 329 wineries 22 Eco World Aquarium 52 West Coast 47, 95, Gibbston 223 Kaki Visitor Hide 179 95-127, 96 Kurow 185 Kiwi Birdlife Park 217 accommodation 95 Marlborough region Kotuku Sanctuary 116 climate 95 64-5, 63, 21, 25 highlights 96 Neudorf 80 Orana Wildlife Park 134-5

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 355 NOTES 356 NOTES 357 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 358

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Hut/Shelter Walking Tour detour Shinto Lighthouse Path/Walking Trail Sikh Lookout Taoist Mountain/Volcano Boundaries Winery/Vineyard Oasis International Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Park State/Province Other Sight Pass Disputed Picnic Area Regional/Suburb Activities, Waterfall Marine Park Courses & Tours Cliff Bodysurfing Population Wall Diving Capital (National) Canoeing/Kayaking Capital (State/Province) Hydrography Course/Tour City/Large Town River, Creek Skiing Town/Village Intermittent River Snorkelling Canal Surfing Transport Water Swimming/Pool Airport Walking Border crossing Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Bus Reef Other Activity Cable car/Funicular Cycling Areas Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway Sleeping Metro station Camping Monorail Beach/Desert Parking Cemetery (Christian) Eating Petrol station Eating Subway station Cemetery (Other) Taxi Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Drinking & Nightlife Tram Mudflat Cafe Underground station Park/Forest Other Transport Entertainment Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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