The Bavarian Alps Naturetrek Tour Report 2 - 9 June 2013 Soldanella alpina, Alpine Snowbell by Dawn Nelson 2013 Naturetrek Group at the Hotel by Dawn Nelson Cypripedium calceolus by Ingrid Patmore Obersee by Ingrid Patmore Report compiled by Andy Patmore & Dawn Nelson Images by Ingrid Patmore & Dawn Nelson Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report The Bavarian Alps Tour Leader: Andy Patmore Naturetrek General Naturalist Ingrid Patmore Naturetrek General Naturalist Dawn Nelson Naturetrek Botanist Participants: Keith Sunley Mary Sunley Claire Phillips John Dickens Chris Woolston Julia Woolston Dave Chadbone Julie Chadbone Brenda Harold Dawn Pitts Ralph Alford Peter Simpson Jane Simpson Robert Bailey Ann Tylisczuk Day 1 Sunday 2nd June Weather: 8 degrees C - Still, Persistent Rain all day Dawn met up with most of the group at Gatwick. Ralph was driving to Bischofswiesen and was caught up in traffic due to flooding, and stayed in Rosenheim for the night. We were greeted at arrivals, by Andy and Ingrid who had collected the minibuses before-hand. We were soon loaded up and away. It was a short half hour journey from Salzburg to our hotel in the woods and meadows above Bischofswiesen. After some time to settle in and an early meal we set off to explore the local woods even though it was still raining. Our first orchids Neottia ovata (Twayblade), and a fine example of Neottia nidus-avis (Bird’s-nest Orchid) was spotted by Chris, and the first of many Cephalanthera longifolia (Sword-leaved Helleborine) were seen; just before we crossed the meadow Dave found some flowering Maianthemum bifolium (May Lily), this diminutive plant was to delight us on most days of the tour. The only notable bird for the evening was a female Phoenicurus ochruros (Black Redstart) waiting to feed her youngsters up in the eaves of the hotel porch. Day 2 Monday 3rd June Weather: 9 degrees C Still, low grey cloud, light rain mid pm Due to the weather over the weekend, the road/path closures etc we had to change our plans. The best alternative was to take a stroll through the local ancient woods and hay meadows on the Silberg Mountain up to the Goetschen Skiing area. © Naturetrek July 13 1 The Bavarian Alps Tour Report It was within minutes that the birders and botanists found the pace that suited their interests; and not long before most of us got a good view of Parus Cristatus (Crested Tit) and Robert drew attention to the distinctive call of Picus canus (Grey-headed Woodpecker), but even with seven or eight pairs of eyes searching the trees no-one got to see it. We found three species of Polygonatum; P. multiflora (Solomon’s Seal), P. odoratum (Angular Solomon’s Seal) and P. verticillatum (Whorled Solomon’s Seal) all growing nearby for easy comparison. Chris spotted Trollius europaeus (Globeflower) and Jane and Peter drew our attention to a patch of Paris quadrifolia (Herb Paris) some of which were in flower. Ralph managed to wind his way through umpteen road diversions and joined us mid-morning on our walk, after arriving at the hotel safe and sound. In the colourful meadows Dawn Pitts noticed an abundance of Campanula patula (Spreading Bellflower) and Plantago media (Hoary Plantain) which is a simple, but very attractive plant. The first of many Gentiana clusii (Clusius’s Gentian) and Primula farinosa (Bird’s eye Primrose) were admired. We also saw Biscutela laevigata (Buckler Mustard) which impressively, Ralf was able to indentify to specific level, in Latin, at just a glance. By lunchtime we had regrouped at a small Gasthof near the ski slopes and while we were refreshed by hot chocolate and coffee we all got a splendid view of a Cuculus canorus (Cuckoo), first seen by Ann, which sat on a fence post long enough for the whole group to see through the spotting scope. En-route back to the hotel we experienced some light rain which did not however deter us. We added between us Convallaria majalis (Lily-of-the-valley), Dactylorhiza majalis (Broad-leaved Marsh Orchid) and Dactylorhiza fuchsii (Common Spotted Orchid). We lifted the shining kidney shaped leaves of Asarum europeaum (Asarabacca) to find its strange, ground level flowers hiding below. Some of the more notable grasses including Briza minor (Annual Quaking Grass) and Melicia nutans (Mountain Melick) were admired, Brenda alerted us to Persicaria vivipara (Alpine Bistort) and John noticed the beautiful pink flowers of Rosa pendulina (Alpine Rose). Also recorded were Loxia curvirostra (Crossbill) and Dendrocopos major (Great Spotted Woodpecker) and a family of Sitta europea (Nuthatch). After returning to our hotel we had time to freshen up before going across the valley to the Kastensteinerwand Gasthof for our traditional Bavarian style evening meal. Day 3 Tuesday 4th June Weather: 14 degrees C - Still, low grey cloud lifting and brightening by late pm This morning we headed down to Schonau in order to take a boat trip on the Konigssee (King’s Lake). This beautiful crystal clear, fjord-like lake is surrounded by cliffs and forested slopes towering at least 1000m above the banks, making it a popular tourist attraction. To beat the crowds we set off early on one of the first boats to Saint Bartholoma, after being treated to an echo harmonising the trumpet being played by the boatmaster. Here we divided into two groups, one going with Andy to look for birds and to walk a circular route, the other with Ingrid and Dawn who walked along the lakeside seeing hundreds of orchids comprising ten species, most stunning of all were the huge quantities of Cypridium calceolus (Lady’s Slipper Orchid), Ophrys insectifera (Fly Orchid) and Dactylorhiza majalis (Broad-leaved Marsh Orchid) all in abundant flower as well as a few Gymnadenia odoratissima (Fragrant Orchid) and Platanthera bifolia (Lesser Butterfly Orchid) in bud. All these were surrounded by carpets of Globularia cordifolia (Matted Globularia) and the occasional Tolfieldia calyculata (Tolfield’s Asphodel). 2 © Naturetrek July 13 The Bavarian Alps Tour Report The other group spent most of their time watching three Rupicapra rupricapra (Chamois) on a distant rocky crag, the challenge then was to find some closer, but the scanning only produced Vulpes vulpes (Red Fox) spotted by Chris. The time passed so quickly that the botanists, for a change, hurried the birders back to the dock, making sure all the Orchids had been appreciated by everyone along the way. Next we caught another boat on to Obersee (Upper lake) and after our picnic divided again into two groups. Andy took the larger group straight to the Obersee, and beyond. Dawn and Ingrid stayed with the botanists and surveyed the sheltered valley between the two lakes, meeting up again with the others at the stunningly beautiful Obersee lakeside. Interesting plants seen this afternoon were Veratrum album (White False Helleborine), the only one in flower we saw; although the large clumps pleated leaves were in abundance in many places at higher altitudes. Dainty white Moehringia muscosa (Mossy Sandwort) and ice blue flowers Lunaria redivida (Perennial Honesty) were also admired. Birds added were Muscicapa striata (Spotted Flycatcher) and Motacilla cinerea (Grey Wagtail) among others. Julie spotted a Marmotta marmotta (Alpine Marmot). We all regrouped in time for the return boat after watching Pytonoprogne rupestris (Crag Martin) swooping along just above the lake. Day 4 Wednesday 5th June Weather: 20 degrees C - Slight breeze, long sunny periods from late am Today we went sightseeing. First stop was Hellbrunn Palace Gardens. Here we saw some wonderful trees including Liriodendron tulipifera (Tulip Tree) and Metasquoia glyptostroboides (Dawn Redwood) in the gardens and some magnificent fish including Common Carp, Mirror Carp, and Sturgeon in the ornamental ponds. Dawn Pitts and Julia spotted a Sciuris vulgaris (Red Squirrel), but the rest of the group had moved on. From here we went to Salzburg city centre by bus. After only 15 minutes we alighted at the Mirabell Palace and admired the gardens and steps used as a back drop in the film ‘The Sound of Music’. Ingrid gave us a whistle stop tour of the historical and architectural highlights, pointing out Mozart’s house and birth place as well as the Cathedral, St Peter’s Square and Gasthof, the huge medieval Fortress and for good measure the smallest house in Salzburg. This year the whole group, bar one, decided to play ‘follow my leaders’ and went with them up onto the cliff path above the City. A handful of plants (31!) were added to our list today, notably large quantities of Campanula rotundifolia (Harebell), Hieracium alpinum (Alpine Hawkweed) and delicate Aspleniums (Ferns) of several kinds on some of the city walls. The birders added Ciconia ciconia (White Stork) and Gyps fulvus (Griffon Vulture). Andy was quick to point out that these two species were feral, free to come and go from Salzburg Zoo! Although the Vultures are more of a long-term release programme, living wild and breeding on the near-by Untersberg Mountain Range. We returned to Hellbrunn Palace in plenty of time to walk back through the gardens and to Claire’s delight (as she did not see it in the morning) the whole group saw a very dark Red Squirrel out on a lawn for several minutes. We were soon all aboard the mini-buses (cunningly parked in the afternoon shade) and back at the hotel within the half hour and ready for another delicious meal; followed by the evening lists and a convivial chat, or owl hunting excursion depending on one’s preference.