WW GUIDE Chesterfield Canal Discover… Navigable for 32 miles west of the Trent, this cul-de-sac canal, known locally as the ‘Cuckoo dyke’, is one of the quietest on the system; even in peak season it’s seldom crowded. Other than its encounters with the towns of Retford and Worksop, it is almost entirely rural, ofering mile after mile of varied Nottinghamshire WW guide to the… and South Yorkshire countryside, some of which is truly delightful. Lightly locked for much of its length, west of Worksop there’s a stunning but CHESTERFIELD arduous climb to the summit through a series of three- and four-rise staircase locks, designed by James Brindley CANAL and restored with careful detailing Only accessible from the tidal Trent, this cul- by the Chesterield Canal Trust. Navigating the canal requires a de-sac canal combines relaxed rural cruising degree of planning, as casual towpath mooring is not easy on a good with magnificent sets of staircase locks. many sections, owing to shallow James Francis Fox explores… edges and high, overgrown banks. At present, boaters have to turn just short of the eastern portal of Norwood Tunnel, but it is hoped that the entire route will one day be opened through to Chesterield. Taking the opportunity to explore this energetic restoration project on foot is highly recommended. www.waterwaysworld.com March 2018 53 In brief WEST STOCKWITH TO RETFORD 14 miles, 5 locks Cruising time: 6½ hours Leaving the port-like environs of West Stockwith, 2 you’ll head gently into Nottinghamshire countryside, which is, by turns, both rugged and picturesque. The villages of Misterton and Clayworth barely trouble the canal, but provide the opportunity to 1 replenish the larder or even enjoy a pub lunch. 3 4 5 West Stockwith Basin. 6 FOOD & DRINK STOPS The Waterfront Inn, West Stockwith 7 Providing good home cooked food and real ales (and now o ering an interesting sideline The canal’s only connection with the network is at its junction in ‘glamping pods’), this 1 with the River Trent at West Stockwith. After the drama of friendly pub is well placed negotiating the tidal waters and entering the lock (see right), you will to provide sustenance find yourself in an infinitely more tranquil and enclosed world at West before you embark on Stockwith Basin. Busy with a variety of craft, and overlooked by a pub, your Chesterfi eld cruise. lock-keeper’s cottage and yacht club premises, it almost has the feel The Brewers Arm, of a coastal port. A pleasant place to start your journey, it is possible to Clayworth moor overnight here by arrangement with the lock-keeper. Before you Just a short walk from set off, however, you may want to take advantage of the only refuelling Bridge 67 is this charming point and one of just two pump-out facilities on the entire canal. 18thcentury English country pub, o ering fi ne 2 After a Cruising through ales and a wide selection of straight Misterton. delicious, goodvalue meals. half-mile from If it’s not to your liking, the West Stockwith, nearby Blacksmith’s Arms a railway bridge is another great option. marks your arrival at the sprawling village of Misterton and the first of 8 five wide-beam locks through to Retford. From here to Shireoaks, all the locks require a CRT key. You’ll find a good mooring point just before Bridge 81, from where the village Co-op is actually in view. 54 March 2018 www.waterwaysworld.com WW GUIDE Chesterfi eld Canal 3 After the bridge, the Shaw Lock. canal shakes off the last of the village’s outlying buildings as it weaves its way through pleasant farmland. Look out for Smith’s Bridge (77), the lowest on the canal, after which you’ll see the former Walkeringham Brickworks on the left. On the right, behind the farm buildings, is the site of the former Haworth Colliery. 4 Heading south-west of Gringley-on-the- Hill, the canal climbs through two locks before reaching that takes you almost to feel of the canal continues the start of a 9-mile pound Retford. The pleasant, rural for some miles yet, however. Former Walkeringham Brickworks. Around a mile from Gringley Top Lock, 5 an abrupt left-hand turn brings you to Drakeholes Tunnel, a 154-yard structure Entering West through a sandstone hill. As you’re heading Stockwith Lock west, you have priority over craft coming from the opposite direction. Another sharp left is ■ West Stockwith Lock is a tidal required as you exit the tunnel, which is likely to lock, controlled and operated necessitate a dead-stop in order to swing your by a Canal & River Trust lock- boat around. Take care, as this 48-hour mooring keeper. S/he will have been area is popular with both boaters and local informed that you are on your anglers. Sadly, the elegant building that was way, but when you are a few formerly the Swan Inn, which looks down on the Drakeholes Tunnel. minutes from the lock you should scene, has been closed for a number of years. make contact by phone (01427 890204) or VHF (channel 16/74). Now heading east for a ■ It is assumed that boats visiting 6 short spell, the canal seems the Chesterfi eld Canal will be determined to avoid modern ‘going with the fl ow’ on the infrastructure. Even the village River Trent – coming north from of Wiseton, which is virtually Torksey on an ebb tide, or south within touching distance of from Keadby on a fl ood tide. The the canal, remains hidden by river fl ows straight past the lock the undergrowth. As too is the entrance, often at quite a lick. nearby Wiseton Estate, only ■ A popular technique is to start evidenced by the ornate Bridge a 180° turn as you pass the lock, 72, which carries the main drive then return under power to turn to the hall. This is known as both in. Another is to perform a 180° ‘Lady’s Bridge’ and ‘Old Man Ornate Bridge’; the latter referencing the turn before the lock and drift Bridge 72. backwards until level with the eroded face on the keystone. lock, then put on full power and turn into it. As you turn across Heading through 7 Approaching the village of Clayworth, the fl ow you start to go sideways, Clayworth. the scenery becomes more open and and you have to keep the power expansive. A sharp right-hand bend brings you on as you head into the lock, to Bridge 67 and the home of the Retford & otherwise you are due for a close Worksop Boat Club, with its CRT water point encounter with the wing-wall. and sanitary station. Although there are no ■ Whatever technique you official visitor moorings here, members of the employ, it is a matter of judging club can usually find you an overnight berth. the speed of the river across the After passing a stretch of moored boats, lock entrance and keeping the you are soon back in the open, Lincolnshire- power on long enough to maintain like landscape. Look out for the piled your course as you turn across section a little way beyond the village, which the current to enter the lock. Do serves as a pleasant overnight stop. For not attempt to enter the lock, or landmarks, you now have to rely on pubs: come alongside the wall, without the Boat Inn at the tiny village of Hayton, turning to face the current. Whitsunday Pie Lock. followed by the Gate Inn at Clarborough, ■ Nervous boaters can ask both of which have dedicated moorings. the lock-keeper (in advance) for assisted entry. 8 The strangely named Whitsunday ■ Once in the lock, the lock-keeper Pie Lock marks the end of the will lower a hook for the bow and long spell of lock-free cruising. The popular stern ropes to be taken up and myth is that it was so named after a farmer’s passed around, or tied to, a bollard. wife baked a vast pie at Whit Sunday, either for the navvies or the boatmen. www.waterwaysworld.com March 2018 55 In brief 1 Shortly after Whitsunday Pie Lock the Hop Pole Hotel RETFORD TO WORKSHOP looms up ahead as you approach Bridge 59, which 11 miles, 9 locks marks your passage into Retford. As well as 24-hour moorings and a water point, this is also the home of Seth Ellis, one of Cruising time: 7 hours four trip-boats operated by the Chesterfield Canal Trust. Retford is the most interesting settlement along the Trip-boat and canal, and deserves a few hours of any boater’s time. 24-hour moorings Beyond the town is pleasant, peaceful countryside beside Bridge 59. that – unwelcome A-road notwithstanding – continues all the way to Worksop. The remote feel of Forest Locks makes it an ideal spot for overnight mooring. 2 After spending so long in peace and solitude, the canalsides of Retford feel particularly vibrant. Old industrial warehouses, two supermarkets, a building supplies yard, a pleasant café and a wide variety of houses all compete for space beside the water, while the towpath bustles with walkers, cyclists and runners. Near Bridge 59, the celebrated marketplace is only a short stroll away, and you’ll certainly want to explore this pleasant Georgian town (see below). Just after Retford Basin, Town Lock marks the first of the narrow locks. Immediately afterwards, the canal crosses the flood plain of the River Idle on three narrow but short aqueducts, before coming to Retford West Lock.