Gulf of Carpentaria Scientific Study Report Sweers Island:Sweers changes over two hundred years since Island: Flinders’ visit changes over two hundred years since Flinders’ visit P. Saenger Centre for Coastal Management, Southern Cross University, Lismore, NSW 2480, [email protected] Introduction Horseshoe and Sweers Islands were ‘men ab- sent lands’ (Dangkawaridulk). These primary Sweers Island is situated at 17°06’S, indicators, as well as later observations, sug- 139°37’E in the south-eastern Gulf of gest that prehistoric use was sporadic and eco- Carpentaria, approximately 32 km offshore. logically insignificant. The island consists of remnants of a lateritic pe- Sporadic visits to the northern Australian neplain, with recent deposition of calcareous coastline by Maccassarese–Buginese fisher- deposits in the form of weakly cemented con- men lost and/or seeking trepang and other ma- glomerate and calcarenite. Most of the island is rine biota did occur, although rarely were less than 13 m above high water mark, except Sweers, Allen and Bentinck Islands included in for the small area around Inspection Hill, which these visits (Macknight 1976). However, some attains an elevation of 32 m. tamarind trees (Tamarindus indicus) on Fowler With the publication of A Voyage to Terra Island, recorded by Pennefather (1880), and the Australis by Matthew Flinders in 1814, Sweers observations by Flinders (1814) of trees cut Island with its safe anchorage, conspicuous el- with axes, remains of worked timbers of teak, evation and convenient water supply, became earthenware jugs and skeletons on Bentinck an important staging post for numerous subse- and Sweers Islands, suggest some visitation to quent visits. From journals and accounts of the area. Effects of these visits on the islands’ those visits, it is possible to identify to what ex- environmental resources are likely to have tent changes have occurred in the flora and been short-term and minor. fauna of the island over the intervening years; this paper is a first attempt to do so. The first recorded The island prior to 1802 impressions The use of Sweers Island by the Kaiadilt The Investigator anchored off Sweers Is- people (Bentinck Islanders) is well docu- land on 16 November 1802, and remained for mented (Tindale 1962a; 1962b). As Tindale 15 days. Peter Good, the gardener of the expe- suggested, historical evidence indicates some dition, described Sweers Island as follows: occupation of Bentinck, Allen and Sweers Is- ‘This island appears very recently formed, lands with primary use focused on Bentinck Is- chiefly of coral sand and ironstone and a mix- land. The nomadic trips to Allens and Sweers ture of sandstone and ironstone. There is no Islands were largely dependent on whim, fresh- luxuriant vegetation or soil capable of produc- water supply and specific hunting and gather- ing such on the island. However, there is con- ing expeditions; all were controlled largely by siderable variety of vegetables … returned on weather. The Kaiadilt people were basically board … with fishing party which had been tol- gatherers of sea food, and the wave platform ar- erable successful and had fish served out to the eas and associated shorelands were probably crew’ (Edwards 1981). utilised on Sweers Island. Women gathered The Investigator was anchored in Investiga- tjilangind (small rock oysters), kulpanda (mud tor Road between Bentinck and Sweers Islands cockles) and crabs during low tide periods, in order to facilitate caulking. The crew began while the men explored the wider littoral areas repairs while Flinders took boat parties to spearing fish, turtle, sharks and dugong. On the Sweers Island to take fixes from Inspection Hill other hand, Aboriginal fish-traps on Sweers Is- and dig out a native well on the beach. The bo- land suggest a more sedentary use of the island tanical gentlemen made useful excursions, in the recent past (Saenger & Hopkins 1975). which were amply rewarded. Robert Brown The Aboriginal terms describing these (n.d.) noted that ‘during our stay at this anchor- places indicate that Bentinck Island was the age I went several times on the Islands & scarce ‘land of all’ (Dulkawalnged) while Allen, ever without finding additional plants so that 11 Sweers Island: changes over two hundred years since Flinders’ visit before we left it I had made out a Florule com- the Cape Van Diemens area early in July 1841, prehending 190 species of perfect plants … The and charted much of the Wellesley Islands. rise of the spring tides was found to be about 11 Stokes (1846) noted that ‘Sweers Island ap- or 12 feet & a circumstance very remarkable peared to be very woody, and bounded by low was that while we remained the low of floods dark cliffs on the north-east side. We found a was commenced in the morning continued for long extent of foul ground, with a dry reef near 12 hours & the ebb during an equal time in the its outer end, extending off two miles in a S. night. During our stay the ship was supplied 33°E. direction from the S.E. extreme … A with fish & the Island where we watered a Bus- party was immediately dispatched in search of tard was shot perhaps not essentially different the Investigator’s well.’ Stokes also recorded a from Charadrius, it weighed 12½ lb & the flesh cloud of locusts which enveloped Sweers but was well tasted that of the legs was much whiter which later moved to Bentinck Island, and ob- than the breast …’ Collections of geological served that ‘Investigator Road … possesses an specimens were also made by Robert Brown equal supply of wood, fish, and birds, with tur- and these were later described by Fitton (1827). tles close at hand on Bountiful Islands … The A few days into caulking, Flinders received soil is chiefly a mixture of sand and decom- reports of extensive repairs required due to rot- posed vegetable matter; but it cannot boast of ting timbers, and a camp was established on fertility. The wood on the island, which con- Sweers Island under Lt Fowler. This group sup- sisted for the most part of gums, wattles, a few plied fish and freshwater to the Investigator. acacias, palms, and, near the beach, a strag- Despite the parlous state of the ship, Flinders gling casuarina or two, bespoke this by its decided to complete a survey of the Gulf, hop- stunted appearance; but as cotton grows well at ing to be able to return to Sydney via the west Port Essington, there can be little doubt that it and south coast in the winter, or retreat to the will thrive here. Several of the bustards spoken East Indies if required. When the repairs were of by Flinders, were noticed; but too wary to be completed, Flinders tried to sail out of Investi- killed. They were as large as those seen in the gator Road against south-easterly winds but ex- neighbourhood of Port Phillip, but much perienced difficulty getting around Locust browner. The other birds, most common, will Rock, anchoring south of Sweers Island. Dur- be found in an extract from the game book … ing this anchorage, Flinders wrote an extensive We saw no animals, except some large igua- summary of the fortnight spent in the vicinity of nas.’ Sweers and Bentinck Islands: ‘The soil, even in The extract from the game book indicates the best parts, is far behind fertility; but the that the island supported an abundant avifauna, small trees and bushes which grow there, and with ‘151 quails, 87 doves, 20 pigeons, 3 pheas- the grass in some of the less covered places, ants, 8 white and 2 black cockatoos, 5 save the larger islands from the reproach of be- spur-wing plovers’ being taken in the fortnight ing absolutely sterile. The principal woods are of the visit. Eucalyptus and Casuarina, of a size too small in general, to be fit for other purposes than the By June, 1856, in Sydney, there had been ap- fire; the Pandanus grows almost everywhere, prehension concerning the safety of the North but most abundantly in the sandy parts; and the Australia Expedition (NAE) under A.C. Greg- botanists made out a long list of plants, several ory, which had left Brisbane for the Victoria of which were quite new to them.’ River in the Tom Tough and Monarch on 12 Flinders (1814) named Bentinck Island after May 1855. Lieutenant W. Chimmo, R.N. was Lord William Bentinck, former Governor of ‘… sent to render assistance to the above expe- Madras; Allen Island ‘after the practical miner dition by his Excellency, the Governor General of the expedition’ and Horseshoe Island ‘from of New South Wales’ (Chimmo 1856; 1857). its form’. He named Sweers Island after The paddle steamer Torch sailed north from Cornelius Sweers, one of the Councillors of Newcastle on 24 June to gain news of the Batavia, who had authorised Tasman’s 1644 explorers. voyage. The Torch arrived off Sweers Island in the The next glimpse of Sweers Island was pro- evening of 30 July, and before dawn ‘… all vided by Stokes in the Beagle on her third voy- hands were on shore looking for water … By af- age in Australian waters, charting the shores of ternoon we had completed water (although Australia not investigated by Flinders or King. somewhat brackish) to about five tons; and in The Beagle sailed into Investigator Road from return deposited pumpkin seeds and Indian 12 Gulf of Carpentaria Scientific Study Report corn round the well, where the soil was rich’ conveyed supplies for the search party led by (Chimmo 1857). Fred Walker, which had left overland from The next day, the Torch departed Sweers Is- Rockhampton on 25 August.