No 1 June –August 2019 Saas-Fee/Saas Valley Magazine Traditional Saas Valley SWITZERLAND IS OUR PLAYGROUND. OCHSNERSPORT.CH Order today by 5 pm – free delivery by tomorrow. EDITORIAL Dear guests Welcome to the Saas Valley! You could have been sat on a crowded beach, or sweating it out in the urban jungle. Instead, you’ve opted for a revitalizing summer holiday in our mountain villages. We’re delighted to reassure you that you’ve made the right choice. Last year, the Saas Valley Tourist Office and each of the four Saas municipalities made a joint decision to replace the Allalin News with three annual editions of a new, more extensive magazine called 4545. The first of which, you now hold in your hands. The name is a nod to the highest point in the valley, the summit of the Dom. At 4,545 metres, it is the highest mountain situated entirely Katharina Holze, Head of Marketing and Communications within Switzerland. This first edition of 4545 is dedicated to the region’s rich most beautiful trails in the Saas Valley. When it comes to the running and varied history. In our showcase of the ‘traditional Saas Valley’, in nature, the Saas Valley has it all – for beginners and experienced discover unique Saas Valley traditions; features include events experts alike, it is unparalleled. and celebrations, individual stories and images. On the cover, and This magazine will show off the diversity and unique character throughout the magazine, you will find a variety of photographs of of our valley, as well as providing useful information for your holiday. traditional Saas Valley dress. From plainer women‘s work clothes Ultimately, we want to create a magazine that is useful and enjoyable to more elaborate festive costumes for both ladies and gentlemen, for you, so your feedback matters. Please send your comments to these outfits remain one of our most cherished traditions, and are [email protected]. still worn at special occasions to this day. However, there is something for everyone in this first edition We hope you enjoy reading, and most importantly enjoy a wonderful –with features specially designed with our guests and their varied summer in our mountains making memories which will last a lifetime. interests in mind. To that end, we invite you to our conversation with ski cross racer Fanny Smith – we hope that the words of the great With the warmest regards, Olympian inspire you as they do us. We also remember German author Carl Zuckmayer (1896–1977), one of Saas-Fee’s most famous Katharina and Yolanda Josephine inhabitants. The article in the ‘People’ section of the magazine will introduce you to the history of Zuckmayer, who fled Austria shortly after Hitler‘s invasion. He visited Saas-Fee for the first time in 1938, arriving via the Kapellenweg (Chapel Trail), which we recommend as a leisurely walking option. In the ‘Active’ section, we take a closer look at the fashionable sport of trail running and detail some of the Yolanda Josephine Bond, Project Leader PR and Communications, Chief Editor 4545 CONTENTS Editorial 5 Summer events 8 Events calendar 9 At the end of the world and at the very centre of it 10 Saas-Fee through the eyes of author Carl Zuckmayer PEOPLE 14 When life gives you lemons 16 Fanny Smith recounts her life as a ski cross athlete A taste of home 20 From pro racers in Madrid to coaches in Saas-Fee: Juan and Alberto tell their story Father Johann Josef Imseng, an inspiration 24 SAAS VALLEY 26 How the people of the Saas Valley used to live 28 The national holiday parade in Saas-Grund Journey through time to the Saas Valley of yesteryear 30 Gärschtoschtori, a culinary and cultural hike in Saas-Almagell The Merry Vineyard 31 Carl Zuckmayer’s play at the open-air theatre in Saas-Grund From seclusion to conviviality 32 Yodel events in Saas-Almagell and Saas-Balen Christoph’s column 37 Local dialect 37 CUISINE 40 The secret of the Saaser Hauswurst (homemade Saas sausage) 42 Tortilla recipe 43 Roscht recipe 45 Hay soup recipe 45 Genepi, the secret comfort of many a Saas Valley resident 46 A little story about the alpine herbal liqueur ACTIVE 48 Kapellenweg (Chapel Trail) 50 Zuckmayer-Wanderweg (Carl Zuckmayer Trail) 51 Almageller Höhenweg (Almagell High-altitude Trail) 52 On-trend: Trail running 54 Saaser Trails by Kim Strom 57 FAMILIES 62 Can you crack the code and open our treasure chest? 64 Walking with a pram: Waldweg Bodmen (Bodmen Woodland Walk) 65 Kids days 66 Meet the Gogwärgini 68 All about the Märliwucha (Fairy Tale Week) Rainy day activities 70 MOUNTAINS 72 Summer skiing in Saas-Fee 75 A regular around town: Ramon Zenhäusern 76 Panoramic map 78 Community 80 Impressum 82 7 SUMMER EVENTS EVENTS CALENDAR st nd Gourmet Trail with Markus Neff From June–August Yoga, meditation, From 21 July 42 Kristallturnier tennis tour- tai chi retreats, etc. nament, Saas-Grund An easy hike through forests and meadows will bring you to the best saas-fee.ch/yoga chefs the Saas Valley has to offer. This year, the entire menu is being 23rd July Piano concert with rd Village tour, created by celebrity chef Markus Neff, with each course designed From 3 June Véronique Thual-Chauvel, every Monday Saas-Grund to follow the previous and form an exquisite gourmet menu. The Saas-Fee hike, therefore, becomes a culinary journey, with each course also From 6th June Fairy tale evening, 25th–28th July The Merry Vineyard, designed to pair harmoniously with the wines. The courses are each every Thursday Saas-Grund at the open-air theatre, cooked by different chefs at small service areas set up along the Saas-Grund th Alpaufzug (Cattle drive) 8 June st st route and enjoyed surrounded by nature. to Distelalp, Saas-Alamgell 31 July/1 August Swiss National Day, Guests are divided into groups, with a maximum of 20 people Saas Valley th Alpaufzug (Cattle drive) per group, with departures staggered throughout the day. The hike 14 June st to Hoferalp, Saas-Balen 1 August Folklore parade, takes four to five hours total, depending on the group’s speed and Saas-Grund the length of breaks taken. th Alpaufzug (Cattle drive) 16 June rd and cow fighting, 3 August Goat festival, Saas-Fee This year, the 12th edition of the Gourmet Trail will be held on the Eyenalp, Saas-Almagell 23rd June. 22nd June Goat drive to 5th August St Mary of the Snows feast day, Hannig, Saas-Fee Monte Moro Pass 23rd June Gourmet Trail, 9th/10th August Yodel Events, Saas-Fee Saas-Almagell For more information and to register, rd th th contact +41 27 958 75 75 or 23 June Alpaufzug (Cattle drive) 13 /15 August Mini Música Romântica to Triftalp, Saas-Grund concert, Saas-Fee ! [email protected] 25th June–3rd September Village fair, 15th August Alpine festival, every Tuesday Saas-Grund Saas-Grund 26th June–4th September Guest concert, 15th August Alpine festival, every Wednesday Saas-Almagell Saas-Balen 29th June Alpaufzug (Cattle drive) 17th August 3rd Yodel Open-Air, to Furggalp, Saas-Almagell Saas-Balen From 29th June Exhibition: Herbarium 23rd–24th August OldTownSessions, Saas Valley, Saas-Almagell Saas-Grund 4th July–29th August Summer concert, 24th August Gärschtoschtori, every Thursday Saas-Fee Saas-Almagell OldTownSessions 5th July–9thAugust Kids days, This August, the third edition of OldTownSessions will take place every Friday throughout the Saas Valley in Saas-Grund, in the old part of the village. The two-day concert 7th July Shepards festival, series will feature a diverse selection of regional and national bands. Saas-Grund Opening proceedings on the Friday are Initramp, from th th Music and dancing, Visperterminen, Switzerland. The cover band performs songs from 11 July/8 August Saas-Almagell the 90s to today, and their repertoire including hits from the likes of Radiohead, Alanis Morisette and Kings of Leon. They warm up the 11th July–22nd August Summer market, crowd for Them Fleurs, the headline act. Throughout Switzerland every Thursday Saas-Fee and Germany, the five Walliser musicians have already made a 13th/14th July Summer ski area opening, name for themselves with their own unique sound – which they Saas-Fee describe as sitting between pop and celestial rock. Them Fleurs th have performed on big stages such as the Grabenhalle in St. Gallen, 14 July Yodel show, Kreuzboden, Saas-Grund at OpenAir Gampel, and in both Berlin and Hamburg. Saturday‘s program will feature southern rock and country 16th–18th July Swing that Music music. Needle and Salt kick things off in the late afternoon, followed meets Windband, by Croak, one of the most famous southern rock bands in the Saas Valley country. Then comes the big finale: The Genepy. The Saas-Grund 18th July/22th August Summer concert, locals will rock the stage with rugged, earthy rock music played on Saas-Balen hand-crafted instruments. 20th–27th July Märliwucha (Fairy tale week) and Klapperlapapp, Saas Valley 21st July 100th anniversary of the women‘s Tickets can be purchased at the and mothers‘ community, Saas-Grund Tourist Office or Saas-Grund ! ordered online at saas-fee.ch 21st July Suckling pig festival, under “Top Events”. Saas-Almagell 8 9 AT THE END OF THE WORLD AND AT THE VERY CENTRE OF IT Shortly before the outbreak of World War II, Carl Zuckmayer fled to Switzerland, and eventually ended up visiting Saas-Fee. What was to become his lifelong love for the place struck him like a thunderbolt in 1938. Text: Yolanda Josephine Bond Photography: Saastal Tourismus AG Vogelweid House, in the Wildi quarter, Saas-Fee, former home of the Zuckmayers.