Notion Press Old No. 38, New No. 6 McNichols Road, Chetpet Chennai - 600 031

First Published by Notion Press 2018 Copyright © Gitanjali Gurbaxani 2018 All Rights Reserved.

ISBN

Hardcase: 978-1-64324-929-2 Paperback: 978-1-64429-331-7

This book has been published with all efforts taken to make the material error-free after the consent of the author. However, the author and the publisher do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause.

No part of this book may be used, reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission .from the author, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews Contents

• Acknowledgment 4

• Preface 5

• Foreword 7

• Recipes from the Royal Family of Jodhpur at the Umaid Bhawan Palace 41

• Recipes from the Royal Family at the Ranbanka Palace, A Heritage Property 49

• Palaces to visit in Jodhpur 149

• Restaurants to visit in Jodhpur 171 Acknowledgements

Ranbanka Palace, A Heritage Hotel, Jodhpur:

Rajkumar Karan Vijay Singh, Mr. Vinit Chhabra, Chef Sunil Dogra, Chef Sarwan Ram, Mr. Dhan Bahadur, Mr. Pappusingh, Mr. Ramesh Mehar, Mr. Sunny Kumar, Mr. Varis Khan, Mr. Ishwar Kumar, Mr. Sanjay Kumar, Mr. Jag Bahadur, Mr. Bishwamitra Dass, Mr. Budhasingh, Mr. Abdul Jabbar, Mr. Kushal Neghi, Mr. Hari Bahadur, Mr. Rajpal Singh, Mr. Bhagwan Singh, Mr. Bhagwan Singh, Mr. Narayan, Mr. Gopal, Sahdev Mehra, Mr. Rakesh Kumar Yadav, Mr. Sunil, Mr. Ranjeet, Mr. Peersingh, Mr. Ravinder Singh Rathore, Mr. Rajendersingh, Mr. Girdharisingh, Mr. Sairam.

Umaid Bhawan Palace, Jodhpur:

His Highness Maharaja Gaj Singh II, Marwar Jodhpur, Chef Chander Singh, Chef Anbalagan Kesavapillai, Chef Sujoy Gupta, Mr. Bhanupratap Singh, Mr. Vincent Ramos, Ms. Mehrnavaz Avari, Mrs. Dolly Mathur, Ms. Divya Chugh, Mr. Pratyush, Mr. Vardhaman Singh Rathore, Mr. Anuj Kanchan, Mr. Nitesh Dhar and their efficient team, Dr. Lotika Purohit, Ms. Hrithika S. Purohit and Mrs. Pragna Pravin Shah.

Balsamand Lake Palace Hotel:

His Highness Maharaja Gaj Singh II, Marwar Jodhpur, Mr. P. K. Purohit, Ms. Ruchika Verma, Mr. Hanuman Singh, Mr. Sawai Singh, Mr. Arjun Singh, Mr. Shyam Singh, Mr. Punjraj Singh, Corporate Chef Mr. J. S. Bhatnagar, Mr. Jitendra Shekawat.

Mehrangarh Fort:

His Highness Maharaja Gaj Singh II, Marwar Jodhpur, Kr. Karni Singh Jasol, Mr. Jagat Singh Rathore, Mr. Pradeep Deora, Mr. Devvrat Singh Rathore.

Photography: Ms. Mexy Xavier & Ms. Gitanjali Gurbaxani Preface

Jodhpur is the second largest city in Rajasthan, after Jaipur. Referred to as the “Blue City” due to the blue painted houses around the Mehrangarh Fort, it is also known as the “Sun city” for the bright and sunny weather it enjoys throughout the year. The old city circles the fort and is bounded by a wall with several gates. However, the city has expanded greatly outside the wall over the past several decades. The opulent forts and majestic palaces, the beautifully restored “haveli's” and colorful temples, the rich ancient tradition and culture, the booming handicrafts industry with its ancient art tradition, rich detailing and textured fabric and its array of delicious Jodhpuri cuisine are the jewels of this city. I am indebted to my parents Dr. Dolly and late Dr. Govind Gurbaxani for imbibing in me to experience eating local food whilst traveling as the cultural diversity of a city is well reflected in it's elaborate cuisine, and sharing great food with local people is the perfect moment to discover new people with different cultures and cuisines. Upon this, a visit to the villages to meet the local people, interacting with them and having the simple and delicious vegetarian food, made by the ladies in the village served in the shaded dining and discovering their local music area was an experience. When I visited Jodhpur first in summer fo 2007, I simply fell in love with the city for the gastronomic delight it had to offer. The “Blue City” is known for its sweets ranging from the traditional “Palangtod Mithai” and “Rabri Ghewar” to “Gond Pak” and “Mawa Kachori.”

An invitation to visit the Umaid Bhawan Palace is still very memorable in my mind. Visiting His Highness The Maharaja Gaj Singh II at his residence at this palace, which is one of the World's largest residences was a memory to treasure. His Highness, is an unforgettable personality, very gracious and humility personified. The interiors of the Umaid Bhawan Palace specially the kitchen in the Palace is what I hold very pleasant memories of. It was a visual treat working on the recipes of the Royal Kitchens of Jodhpur in this kitchen. The staff at the Ranbanka Palace had very painstakingly conjured up local delicacies minutes before setting up a practical outdoor kitchen for us to do the shoot in natural light. Under the guidance of the Executive Chef Mohasinali Ayub Sayyad and his efficient team, we worked for twelve hours a day to shoot all these recipes from the scratch. Although exhausting, we enjoyed every bit of it. The entire team holds fond memories of this shoot in Jodhpur as we savored all that we shot.

I am exceptionally grateful to Rajkumar Karan Vijay Singh and Mr. Vinit Chhabra at Ranbanka Palace, Jodhpur for extending their hospitality to us, showing us around the city and for making our long stay at the hotel very comfortable. I would like to express my gratitude by thanking respected “Baapji” for giving me the opportunity to write this book. A big thank you to Chef Satish Arora for always encouraging my interest and curiosity in good food and for having taken me through a diverse culinary journey over the years by dishing out gastronomical delights in a variety of finger licking cuisines. A heartfelt thanks to my close friend Mrs. Romy S. Wadhwani for her support. Many thanks to Chef Mohasinali Ayub Sayyad at the Ranbanka Palace for sharing with us recipes of authentic Jodhpuri cuisine and to Chef Chander Singh and Chef Anbalagan Kesavapillai at the Umaid Bhawan Palace for having shared with us some rather rare recipes from the Royal Kitchen of Jodhpur.

UMAID BHAWAN PALACE JODHPUR- 342 006 RAJASTHAN

Foreword

"Jodhpur — An Insight to a Gourmet Destination" is a collection of the rich culinary heritage of Marwar, Jodhpur; which has evolved over centuries in our arid climatic conditions.

Ms. Gitanjali Gurbaxani, the author gives a brief historical introduction & takes us on a gastronomic journey of traditional Jodhpur delicacies, which are now a gourmet's delight in India and across the world. She has travelled extensively in and around Jodhpur, meeting the culinary experts at Umaid Bhawan Palace. Ranbanka Palace, Bal Samand Lake Palace, the Old City recapturing and compiling culinary heritage of Jodhpur.

It is believed that 'to know a community, eat its food", on this note I recommend this book for those who wish to discover Jodhpur, the destination; through its rich traditional cuisine.

GAJSINGH MAHARAJA OF JODHPUR

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The Cuisine of Rajasthan is a product of it's geographical, historical and cultural background. Although the emphasis is simply more on nutrition than on fuss, given the harsh climatic conditions, the people of Rajasthan have produced so much variety from so little. The war like lifestyle of the Rajputs and the unavailability of ingredients in this desert region has influenced the eating habits of the people ; food that could last for several days and could be eaten without heating was preferred more out of necessity than choice.

Given the fact that more than half of Rajasthan is made up of a desert, there is very little that grows here. And fresh vegetables are unheard of in pre – communication days. Improved means of transportation and communication changed all that. And now more fresh vegetables and fruits are available by the day. But not less than twenty years ago, there were only hardy desert vegetables and cereals.

The desert region comprises Jodhpur, Jaisalmar and Bikaner. The land here is unyielding. Rainfall is scanty and vegetation comprises patches of grassland, dry shrubs and shunted trees. Crops cultivated are hardy cereals like “Bajra” or Millet and “Jawar” or Barley. It is indeed a hostile, harsh and merciless region. Yet culturally, the more interesting side of Rajasthan. Thar, the great Indian Desert, immortalized in song and folkshore as “Marusthali” ( the land of death) lies in the north west Rajasthan. But not all of this state is wasteland. The Aravalli hills, the oldest geographical feature of the Indian sub – continent, is a rocky spine that divides Rajasthan into two regions of starling contrasts. One is barren, while the other has lakes, forests and fertile land. While the Royal Kitchens could put together variety to please the royal palate, it was the common man's kitchen that had to be more innovative. The common man's resources being limited, he had to make the most of the limited local repertoire of vegetables and cereals.

Over the years, the Rajputs have lovingly preserved their culinary

9 traditions and perfected the art of simple cooking. Outside influences have been blended in very carefully. The Jains, Maheshwari's, Sindhi's and Brahmins have adapted and innovated from each other while retaining their individual nuances and preferences. Water being scarce, women in marwar have always used the minimum of water. They would rather use milk, buttermilk and ghee (clarified butter ). There is a very old saying in marwar that pleads with the guest to spill milk if he / she wants to but to be very careful with the water because that could really upset the woman of the house. Dried lentils, beans and pods from indigenous plants like “sangri,” “ker,” “kachri” and “gavarfali” ( cluster beans ) are used to make curries. Gramflour is a major ingredient here and is used to make delicacies like “dahi curry,” “gatte ki subzi” (gramflour dumplings in curry) and “pakodi” (fried dumplings ) eaten with chutney. Dried and powdered lentils are made into little balls called “mangodi”, which are put together in a curry. Papadoms are cut into triangles and cooked in curry too. Sun dried “gavarfali” (cluster beans) are fried and powdered with salt and red chilli powder and served with rice and “khichdi” (steamed rice with lentils). Preparing papad is a community activity, with the village gathering in each other's houses to do the chores together. They prepare the lentils, pick and wash them, and grind them. And soon enough, turn them into small balls and spread them out in the sun to dry. The women move from home to home in groups and spend the entire day together singing, resting and chatting between doing the chores. A major part of the pre - winter season is thus spent preparing dry stocks for the coming months. If fresh vegetables are found, it is a bonus !!! But the woman of the desert is not to be found unprepared. Her kitchen will be stocked with all the dried food stuff that can be turned into sumptuous gravies / curries over the cold months. Their livestock too lived on dry fodder for most of the year.

Grass was a luxury denied to these hardy animals. The staple diet of goats, camels and cows however came from indigenous trees like dhok, ber, kajri and babool. Leaves, fresh as well as dry from these trees were fed to these animals. Bajra and Jawar are the staple grains of the desert, and are used to make thick roti's. These roti's incidentally are also turned into rabdi (porridge eaten with buttermilk) and steamed khichdi. There are a variety of chutney's to go with these roti's. That are made from by grinding together locally available spices like coriander, garlic, red chillies, kachri's (sour berry ) and mint. More often than a not, desert inhabitants complete meal comprises of thick bajra roti that is eaten with red chilli and garlic chutney or a crushed raw onion. And is complete only after guzzing down a tall glass of buttermilk. Anything other than this would truly be a luxury !!! The women cook in their courtyards on open “chulla's” and usually close their kitchen before sunset. There are separate “chulla's” in the courtyard for the meat that is cooked by the men in the house. In the Royal kitchens of Rajasthan, until very recently, cooking was always considered very serious business. That

10 was raised to the level of an art form. Hundreds of cooks worked in the palaces. And kept the recipes that were handed over to the respected families of the years, a closely guarded secret. There were cooks for different occasions, and as a matter of fact, there were specialists for certain dishes too. Needless to say, there were different cooks to cook vegetarian and meat dishes. There were rice specialists too. Pulao could be cooked in 300 different ways . As could meat and chicken for that matter. It was for this season that good cooks were prized member of the palace staff. They were invariably kept busy by their masters, who indeed entertained a lot. These cooks in particular had to constantly strive to do better than their counterparts in other royal kitchens. It was a matter of great pride for the cook, if his kitchen could prepare a delicious and rather unusual banquet that would be talked about endlessly for days. Good cooks till date have always had their own helping staff. So that they can conjure a meal in quick time and yet be able to layout an elaborate spread at the same breath.

Royalty enjoyed another privilege - “shikar.” Way back, Indian royalty received formal training in hunting. Children of both sexes started their forays into the forest fairly early in life. Most princes had shot their first tiger or panther at the tender age of ten. Experienced old timers took the young princes and princesses under their wing and trained them until they had honed their skills. A good hunter had quick reflexes, knew when to attack, when to defend and needless to say also knew when to escape. These qualities made him a better ruler, warrior and protector of the people.

Almost every state is erstwhile - Rajputana had a special department whose job was to organize shikar camps. Preparation for the same began months in advance, and the members of the palace staff worked endlessly to ensure that everything went off smoothly at the expeditions. Readying/Setting the appropriate firearms and ammunitions was one of the priorities ; Machans or embroidered tents in keeping with the occupants status were put up. The best trackers were always on hand to locate the tiger, wild boar or panther. For the period of the shikar camp, the royal duties were however in a way discharged from all these well planned tented cities, where the maharaj was seen in a relaxed mood in the company of the guests.

Stories of the royal hunting expeditions abound in Rajasthan. Princes from different parts of India and abroad, diplomats and other foreign dignitaries looked forward to being invited to the shikar camps organized particularly by the Maharaja's of Jodhpur, Jaipur, Udaipur and Alwar ……… to name a few. Each maharaja took great pains to ensure that his shikar camps were indeed the best and most sought after too. It was a matter of great pride when those in power, often the ruling British, expressed their desire to be invited to these camps. For the princes, it was also an exercise in diplomacy. It gave

11 them an opportunity to meet important dignitaries informally and maintain good terms with them.

Each region has it's own specialty. The duck shoots of Bharatpur were legendary with several thousands of water birds being shot in a single day. Thus, making it a favourite hunting ground for the viceroys and other royal guests. The imperial sand grouse shoots organized by Bikaner were equally famous and enjoyed by the Prince of Wales, among others. The hot dry desert region of Jodhpur, Bikaner and Jaisalmer was ideal for wild boar, black buck and a wide range of local as well as migratory birds like the quail, partridge and bustard …….. to name a few.

The Maharaja of Jodhpur had a special train in which he took his guests for shikar. Rajmata Gayatri Devi of Jaipur has attended a few camps herself. In her book titled “Gourmet's Gateway,” she recalls “Maharaja Umaid Singhji used to organise grouse shoots in Pokran. We would all go in a special train that would be stationed there during the shoot. The day would be spent outdoors and invariably in the evening, there would be cooking parties. Maharaja Ajit Singh, Maharaja Umaid Singhji's brother was truly an excellent cook. I used to sit and watch him while he cooked. Infact it was from him that I learned that “kachri” was used to soften meat.” Each Maharaja has his own special dishes that come to be associated with his name. The two minute partridge or grouse was the speciality of the houses of Jodhpur and Bikaner. While several Maharaja's enjoyed cooking for their guests, so as to make them feel special and wanted, many others preferred to take their retinue of cooks with them. There was a cook for bird delicacies, just as there was one for a big game. There was somebody for “baties,” ( roasted wheat balls ) and somebody for “buthas” ( barbequed pieces of boneless meat ), “Khud Khargosh ( rabbit ), “ Lal maans ( meat in red chilli gravy, the red chillies coming from the nearby mathania that is a chilli producing area ) and kebabs. Rabbits would be cooked in pits dug into the ground about three feet deep and lined with straw that should be lit. The rabbit would be wrapped with roti's that would cook simultaneously. Leftover meat would invariably be pickled with oil, salt turmeric and chillies, so that it could be eaten at leisure.

Though shikar was a royal obsession, the maharaja's never shot animals or birds for that matter indiscriminately. They knew when to kill and when to protect. Shikar was taboo in early summer and the monsoon months. As that was the breeding season and no good shikari worth his salt would ever think of hunting during this period. The self imposed ban was lifted in mid - October, when the migratory birds usually started arriving to escape the bitter cold of their own countries. Another important factor that determined the right time to hunt had to do with the taste of the hunted animal. An 1881 publication “The Game Birds of India, Burmah and Ceylon” by Hume and Marshall goes into great details. It says “much depends upon how they have been living for six weeks or two months previous to being shot. Birds recently arrived from northern climes are as a rule, not worth cooking.

12 Even fat, granified birds that have been spending their days in marshes and broads are often indifferent. It was well to select for yourself, when distributing the day's spoils to the camp followers. The birds of the year weighing six pounds or so and all white underneath. The old heavy one's much marked below the fat and well flavoured are often tough and hard.

Some of the birds hunted in Rajasthan included the grey lag goose, the barred headed goose, the common teal, quail, sand grouse, partridge amongst others. Experienced shikari's waited for the right season and the right kind of bird. They knew well to leave the older birds alone, because although larger, their meat was tougher and not as delicious as that of a young bird. The days catch was always distributed very generously in the camp to be shared by the maharaja's staff, while the best bird was served at the royal table. Similarly, the taste of a larger bird like black buck, wild boar and hare depended on it's diet. The better tasting one's were those who lived in the dry area against the one's that were fed on fresh greens.

Marwari cooking is not just restricted to meat. An equally important part of Rajasthani food is “Brahmani Bhojan” or pure vegetarian fare. The stress is on purity of ingredients and richness, provided by “ghee” and “mawa”. These rich foods were balanced by the generous use of digestives like asafoetida, black rock salt, “soonth” or dry ginger and “ajwain” or carom seeds. Other flavourings like fenugreek and aniseed were also used regularly. The cook in this case, known as the “Maharaj,” would be a Brahmin, since only high caste Brahmins were permitted to touch the food. He was expected to bathe and don clean clothes before entering the kitchen. He always did the cooking himself, and also ensured that his helpers were high caste Brahmins too. Onion and Garlic (that formed a very important part of the Rajput kitchen) were taboo in a marwari Brahmin's kitchen. These maharaj's have invented a large variety of tasty curries that did not allow the use of these two ingredients. The “Brahmani Bhojanshala” ensured that the food was directly from the cooking pot. There never was a serving dish between the table and the kitchen, according to the Brahmin's rules of “pure” and “impure” food. A typical Brahmin thali contains the following delicacies - shredded ginger, an aubergine dish, fenugreek, coriander and red chilli powder, potato and cauliflower vegetable. It also includes dal, yogurt curry & yogurt, rice and roti's as well as a sweet dish. Roasted papad is served at the end of a meal, thus signifying the completion of a meal. Pure ghee, a very important cooking medium in a marwari house has in these calorie conscious days been toned down to make food lighter on calories.

Festivals in Rajasthan have always given people the opportunity to decorate their homes, buy new clothes, visit relatives and friends and take time off from their daily routine to gather together and enjoy the festivities. Special food naturally is high on the agenda,

13 keeping in mind the occasion. A wedding, a festival, a celebration to mark the birth of a male child or a good harvest, even good monsoons are reason enough to celebrate. Women of the neighbourhood gather and prepare sweets like “Mawa Kachori,” “til ka laddo,”“sohan papdi,” “besan barfi,” “shakarpara,” “moti pak” ……… to name just a few. Non vegetarian cooking is done mostly by men and most Rajput men excel in preparing exotic mutton and chicken dishes for the festive table like “kaleji” (Liver ), “Kheema kofta” ( fried mince meat dumplings ), “handi butha” (mutton cooked in earthern pot), “soyata” (meat cooked with millet). The menu largely depends on the occasion and the season. There are different items prepared in winter months and during summer. Pure ghee and garam masala are used very liberally as are dry fruits and saffron. Although these ingredients are not used for everyday cooking as this food is not only rich but time consuming to and often takes days to prepare. Not all festive food is cooked at home by women. Special sweets like “phirni” and “ghevar,” prepared during the festival of “Teej” are made by expert halwai's. Some festivals like “Sharad Purnima,” the night of full moon before Diwali are celebrated in Rajasthan in a rather unusual . way There are community dinners on lawns or terraces, under the moonlit . sky To mark the silver moonlight, men dress up in white, while the women wear pearl pink colours. The menu here too comprises a white fare - white meat, “paneer” or cottage cheese, cauliflower cooked in milk or yogurt called “Safed Gobi,” “White Khata” or potatoes cooked in yogurt and makkai di roti or corn bread. For dessert, there is “kheer” (rice cooked in milk and sugar). An all time favourite that has been made in advance and left outdoors in a silver container the night before to absorb the moonlight and the dew drops.

While we eulogize about Rajasthan's glorious past comprising Maharaja's and Maharani's and brave Rajput Warriors who spent months away from home conquering unfriendly terrain to establish their kingdoms, there was more to their lives than that. However, their main battle was that of survival against the extreme climate, droughts and the lowering of water tables, the hot sand dunes and dust laden winds that ensured the cultivation was most certainly next to impossible. Inspite of all this, the people created some of the most sumptuous food from little that was available.

Although Jodhpur is a bustling city today, in the 15th century when arid desert sand and rocky hillocks were all that existed here. Conceiving of a palace fort of the likes of Mehrangarh would have been next to impossible. The rocky terrain here extended northwards upto “Mandore,” and covered the sites on which were later built the city gates such as “Nagauri Gate,” “Merati” and “Jalori Gate.” Incidentally, all of these have been named after towns towards which they pointed. The rock also covered what is now “Nai Sarak” or new road, near the Clock Tower and bazaar and the “blue” city called “Brahmapuri,” extending further south. The only visitors here at that time were the encircling kites.

14 Yet, it was here that the famous Rathore ruler Rao Jodha laid the foundation of his first impregnable fort in 1459 and when it was built, he shifted from his earlier capital Mandore. With him came his “darbar” or court of selected nobles. Perhaps with the “Pancha - Ranga” (five coloured flag bearing a cheel or kite ), his “Kul Devi” or family goddess “Nagnechiadevi” ( the serpant goddess ) and his “Isht Devi” or state goddess “Chamunda” (a fierce form of Durga) along with the treasures accumulates from battle. His citadel on which he spent all of Rs. 9,00,000/- was very different from what the present maharaja inherited 493 years later. It was much much smaller and small to the extremities of the original fortess fell within the second gate, that one can see today and the original palace lay adjacent to the “Shrinagar Chowk” the courtyard with the marble encased coronation seat. Facing east is yet another hillock, lower in height on which was built the most talked about “Umaid Bhavan Palace” much later in 1929. However, not too many of know that this is today the residence of the present Maharaja Gaj Singh II. And also has a Taj hotel for that matter.

Although a dry and barren terrain, the “Meherangarh Fort” had sufficient drinking water, sourced from two underground reservoirs in courtyards inside the palace complex and several natural water reservoirs outside. Infact, this is perhaps one of the reasons that the founder chose this site in favour of another proposed site further north called “Mansuriya Hillock.” Over the years, the Mehrangarh Fort was built upon, added to and renovated too. It in a way chronicled the architectural and cultural history of the Rathore Rajputs from 1459 right until 1952. Though the palaces were private, the Fort was always accessible to the public to pay homage to the state deity “Chamunda.” As a matter of fact, not too many of know that Goddess “Chamunda” is worshipped till today. Particularly during the nine “Navratra” celebrations culminating in the festival of Dassera in October. Symbolizing the victory of good over evil in Lord Rama's defeat of the demon Ravana and return home. In 1976, a private trust headed by Maharaja Gaj Singh II as Managing Trustee was set up to govern the fort. With the result that now the doors of the fort museum and palaces too are open to visitors everyday. And neighbouring the fort is the Maharaja Maan Singh Pustak Prakash Centre which is said to be the pride of the royal family. It is the royal library containing original manuscripts in which Maharaja Maan Singh, a philanthropist and more important a patron of literature, art and culture took a particularly keen interest during his reign in the early 19th century.

Drive upto the fort through it's north approach road, passing through the hundred year old ship harse and “Nagauri Gate and entering through “Jai Pol” or victory gate, one of the forts seven largest gates. As you enter “Jai Pol,” there is a visitors information counter as is in most tourist destinations. And yes, there is also a library on the right side and an elevator on the left. Unless the

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elevator is required badly, the best way to get a feel of the size of the fort is to simply walk up through a passage called “ Ded Kangura” ( having the length of over one and a half crenellations ). It is studded with cannon ball marks and looks absolutely mind boggling. After entering in, pause for a spectacular view of the pleasure palace square “Chowk –e – lao,” down the left overlooking a once mughal type “Charbagh” or cruciform shaped garden. Beyond are the solid ramparts and a magnificent view of the “blue” city, Brahmpuri. Further south, one can see the “Chamunda” temple at the foot hill of the palace and a false gateway that leads to an enclosure containing the seat of Chiriya Nath, a “shaivite” saint who once upon a time lived and meditated here, when it was a barren rocky crag.

The story goes that the “yogi” was removed from his place when the fort was being built and went away angrily cursing drought upon dynasty, as the local guides will tell you surreptitiously. You then climb upto the “Marati Pol” or nectar gate, that is situated near a drinking water source, always considered by Rajputs as nectar. Visible through this magnificent Mughal type gate is a steep climb. This slope has indeed preserved the cultural traditions of the Rathore's. Depending on their rank and status, they were assigned appropriate vehicles or mode of transport such as palanquin or an elephant, so as to take them into the palace complex. In the middle of the palace survives the oldest gate of the fort, “Jodhaji ka Phalsa.” Indeed a modest entrance fitted during the founder king Rao Jodha's Reign in 1459. On reaching the top, visitors invariably welcomed by the conventional greeting “naubat,” an orchestra of wind and percussion instruments used in battlefields. Thereafter is the impregnable iron gate or “Loha Pol,” fitted with spikes in order to withstand elephant attacks in earlier times. Once inside, on either side of the wall are the 19 th century handprints of the queens who committed “sati” on their husbands funeral pyre. And yes, these handprints are still worshipped with garlands, red paint and silver leaves.

18 Osian, a small village known for it's temples is about 65 km. north west of Jodhpur almost an hour's drive away. While the local people visit Osian to pray in it's temples, to the tourists it provides an interesting evening outing and is yet very educative too, particularly to see temple sculpture amidst village life. After you finish the temple circuit, right on the edge of the Thar Desert there are a row of camels who await to take you to the sand dunes, where one can end the evening with an exotic desert theme dinner under the stars, something that will live in your minds forever, with the famous Langa desert musician and “kalbeliya” snake dancers providing some truly traditional entertainment.

Though a small village now, history confirms that Osian was once a large and prosperous city. In fact so large was it, that according to a local story, when it was at the height of it's prosperity it had it's grain market in the village Matharia about 32 km. south south – east, the oil press worker's quarter 26 km. south south – west in the village Tiwari and one of it's principle gateways called “Rohinskupa” in the village Ghatiyala, 56 km. south west. Known then as “upakesapur” or ukesa it was an important pilgrimage centre between the 8thand 9th centuries, apparent from the surviving Hindu temples of the “vaishnava,” “sama” (Sun) and “shakta” (mother goddess) sects. Later, inspite of the ruler's adoption of Jainism, it still continued to attract Hindu devotees to it's temple of the goddess “Sachiya- mata” (a folk transformation of Mahishasuramardini) which as a matter of fact is still in use today.

There are in all fifteen Brahminical temples and shrines and a cluster of Jain temples. Yes, all of them were built during the Gurjara Pratihara dynasty between the 8th century and the 12th century. Testimony to the significance of religion in the life of it's people for 400 years. One such group of eleven temples belonging to the early phase (8thcentury-9th century), lies within and on the outskirts of the present day village. The other group belonging to the 11th century and 12th century is located on a hill overlooking the village. Although small is appearance,

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these temples are indeed very beautifully built and richly. And richly sculpted too. A striking feature is the variety in their design. Each temple has it's own original design, planning and layout for that matter. This is rather unusual in India, where unalterable convention in temple building is strictly observed. Yes, here no temples are alike.

The “Svetambara Jain Temple” dedicated to Mahavira, the last “tirthankar,” is at the west most end of the village and faces north. The ornate gateway or “torana” leads to an open porch. It's pillar's sculpted with the vase and foliage design convention representing the post Gupta 5th century period. Here, there is also a closed hall, a vestibule and the sanctum. The change in building styles here indicate that these temples were built in phases. Initially in the 8th century and then repaired and added to a little later in the 10th century. The big “torana” was built even later, probably in the 11th century. Enshrined inside the sanctum is a well preserved image of Mahavira. This temple is often regarded as an important pilgrimage centre.

Walk a few yards away, amidst the little village, houses and you come to the Sun Temple. The two fluted pillars of the front porch give it an almost imposing and classical appearance. The temple here faces the west and has a shrine, a hall and yes, a portico too. The four subsidary shrines were originally connected by a cloister, which served the purpose of a compound wall, that contained a row of flat roofed chambers which provided shelter for visiting devotees. This temple too has it's distinctive qualities in the shape of the “shikars,” and in the style of it's pillar ornamentation. Although here too, as a matter of fact, the sanctum has no idol now. But the back principal niche preserves a beautiful sculpture of surya, the Sun God. The other beautiful sculptures here are that of Mahisha- suramardini, Ganesa, Lakshmi Narayana, Babrama, all showing admirable craftsmanship, which are worth seeing.

22 Whilst in Osian, get into a car and drive up the hill to the Sachiyamata Temple. The goddess Sachchika or Sachiyamata is a transformation of Mahishasuramardini, and is worshipped by both the Hindu's and the Jain's. They usually present their offerings here after accomplishing the tonsure or marriage ceremony of the children. According to the Jains, the Oswals of the Vaishya trader community originated from Osian and Sachiyamata is their family diety or “Kula Devi.” They still continue to come here to pay their respects. This temple faces west and consists of a sanctum with a circumambulatory path and assembly halls. The roof of the assembly halls rest on pillars, which are so arranged as to form an octagon ( indictive of it's construction in the 11th century ) and support a shallow dome. There are sixteen brackets around the dome sculpted with female dancers. Extensive renovations and reconstruction was undertaken in the 12 th century, though originally this was built in the 8 th century. The exterior of the shrine is plain and simple. There are five niches on it. The principle niche containing the delineation's of the Goddess Sitala, Mahishasuramardini and Chamunda respectively.

A group of small temples dedicated to Vishnu and it's incarnations surround the central shrine. They have some real exquisite carvings of serpent coils on the ceilings and sculptures of Radha and Krishna. A characteristic festive of Osian temples is the representation of the life and childhood exploits of Lord Krishna on the exterior of the temples in the long frieze around the main shikara. The temples and sculptures here also reveal a synthesis between religious sects. The composite sculpture of Harihara (equal halves of Vishnu and Shiva) present the synthesis between Shaivism and Vaishnavism.

The door ways of the Osian temple are particularly richly carved with fine portrayals of complete volumes of folklore and mythology by means of symbol and image. And yes, in northern India, temples of Osian rank in importance next to Khajuraho and Bhubaneshwar, which are considered to be the two medieval temple cities of India. Whilst still in Osian, do not miss the sunset against

23 the sand dunes on the western edge of the village. After dusk, the nightlights over here are drowned by the floodlit Sachiyamata Temple on the hill, thus providing a truly magnificent view of this small village.

Though a little village now, Osian is infused with rural culture. It's roadside bazaar offers colourful dresses and ornaments, “mojari's” or soft leather shoes, daily utilities, trinklets made by silversmiths and goldsmiths, local crafts, dry preserved vegetables of the desert, pottery ………… A familiar sight, by the way are large, freely wandering peacocks around the ancient temples.

Travelling from the western border of Rajasthan towards the east through the arid wasteland of the great Thar Desert, Jodhpur appears like an oasis of civilization, life admist barrenness. When the foundation of Mehrangarh, (destined to become one of the mightiest forts of all times) was laid, with it grew the city of Jodhpur, today better known as the culture capital of Rajasthan. Jodhpur has always fascinated the visitor with it's true marwari hospitality. Rich and colourful culture traditions, arts and crafts and bustling bazaars are what comes to one's mind when one thinks of the blue . city However, to enjoy life in this 500 year old city, one should simply walk through it's narrow lanes which are simply bustling. For one, there cannot be a better starting point than Mehrangarh Fort, the seed from which this city has grown virtually. After seeing it's museum and walking along it's cobbled ramparts, it is time to explore this city.

The oldest part of Jodhpur called “Brahmpuri,” the abode of 'brahmins” or priests. It can be reached through the rear gate of the Fort, “Fateh Pol.” Not too many people know that it was once the original entrance to the Fort. It was rebuilt by Maharaja Ajit Singh in 1718 to commemorate the recapture of the Fort from the mughals. The most striking feature here is as one steps out. It is a small township of stone 24 houses, all of which are painted blue. Initially, the houses of Brahmins only were painted blue so as to be easily recognized by people. A kind of distinctive identification as one would call it. But today, the walled city is fast turning into a blue city, thus signifying where the city got it's second name from. The blue colour keeps the stone houses cool from reflecting the harsh glare of sunrise. The street from “Fateh Pol” leads to one of the oldest surviving structures of Jodhpur, the “Ranisar.” A fortified water tank, built by Rani Jaomade, queen of Rao Jodha in the year 1500. The tank served as an important source of water to the Fort and surrounding township. From here as one walks back to the main street, there is another important water body. The step well “Chand Baori ” built by Rani Chand Kanwar, another queen of Rao Jodha. They both bear testimony to the philanthropic works carried out by the royal ladies. The 'baoris” are even today an important source of drinking water to the old township here.

Around the step walls, on the platforms outside the houses, an important social activity called “hathai” or gossip takes place. Out here, old and young folks come together over a game of cards or chess for that matter. Whilst the youngsters discuss anything from cricket to movies, politics and apathy for the present system are favourite topics with the older people. Continuing on the same street, one reaches “Navchokia,” a junction of nine streets that are linked to a square. This is the main market of this township. Around the square are beautiful examples of the 18th century “haveli” architecture. The haveli's are generally two storeyed houses with a big gateway or pol ; a courtyard or “chowk” and rooms around it. Although the haveli's here have simple interiors, their exteriors are well sculpted. The latticework particularly represents the typical architectural type of this region of Rajasthan.

“Jaisalmarion ki Galli” is one of the nine streets on which the heritage walk continues. As the name suggests here, the street was once inhabited by a community from Jaisalmer. Most of the streets and “mohalla's” in the old city are named either after a community or after a profession. Suggesting a clear social classification in Medieval society. At the end of this street is “Singh Pol,” the city gate dating back to Rao

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