PHOTO: MATEO TOMISLAV KLARIĆ INSTAGRAM*

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Smile year round with Triptih art APRIL 2021 Art always finds a way... or at least a street or a wall. ’s best street art team, the Pimp My Pump collective, has painted murals on Ban Jelačić square, and Radićeva street as part of an awesome outdoor exhibition called Triptih. Three murals will adorn three spots for the first three months of the project, before being swapped for three new masterpieces by new artists – with an additional surprise location – to keep the city smiling all year.

* Zagreb was more commonly known outside by its Austrian German exonym Agram

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Little Zagreb is located where we least expect it. Mini buildings are hidden on Zagreb’s curbs, fences and walls, with art installations scattered across 11 locations in the city. It’s the simple – or little – things in life. So, stroll around the city and discover Little Zagreb. pecially important in light of climate change, the affirmation of water as GO MONOVIEW a human right and the reduction of plastic packaging. NATIVE Making Zagreb Your favorite green hideaway in or APRIL SKYGAZING greener & better around Zagreb… A constellation of Za- Everyone should take a walk through greb architecture and the Peščenica archipelago, aka the the elements create the Savica reserve, which has 12 lakes. I most alluring skies in would recommend a walk along the April. Dark and moody Bliznec stream via the stretch from clouds seem to fight park to the Jazbina reten- piercing rays of sun- tion, and beyond. As a micro-location shine for a spot on the closer to the city center, there’s a skyline. Rain showers small basketball court surrounded by are fast and furious. greenery on Bosanska street. Pick a shielded place in the Upper Town and Tell us two things about Zagreb few watch the show. people know. Saša Šimpraga, writer, activist & founder of Orson Welles lived in Zagreb. Even THE SUN AND THE 1POSTOZAGRAD (1 Percent for the City), a fewer people know that the begin- COFFEE volunteer-based platform focused on Zagreb’s nings of computer-generated art As spring builds up, we public spaces are related to Zagreb and the New can't wait to soak up Tendencies art movement. At that the healing, boosting A recent community-led project time, a document was created in energy from the young that’s closest to your heart? London which was called The Zagreb sun. Find a green ex- I'd single out the Savica za Park ini- Manifesto, precisely because of the panse such as , tiative which successfully defended importance of New Tendencies. grab coffee to go and the Savica public park from con- stroll along the lake. struction. This struggle inspired oth- Apply some sunscreen ers, too. It’s part of a whole network beforehand. of local initiatives by the community that defend the public interest. QUIZG JOIN THE BBQ SEASON Most locals will fire up What initiatives are you working on their grill and grease to make Zagreb greener & better? Museum of Broken their griddles around An expansion of the Lower Town Relationships this time. There's noth- pedestrian zone is underway. For ex- ing like cooking and ample, we’d like a new promenade to eating alfresco. If you connect the Croatian National The- don't get an invite to a ater with Zrinjevac, via Masarykova barbecue party, pack and Teslina 1 Zagreb has been proud of its markets your own supplies and IMAGINE IT: A streets. This route since the first opened in 1850. Where do a cookout at Bundek basically already was it located? lake and park. SPRAWLING works as a pedes- a) on Ban Jelačić square WALKWAY trian zone – it just b) on Dolac EAT FRUITS needs to be treated c) in front of the cathedral OF THE SPRING FILLED WITH that way. Imagine Hit Dolac market and GREENERY it: a sprawling 2 The Botanical Garden’s oldest tree is pick something which AND BENCHES walkway filled the pedunculate oak. How old is it? has either 'spring,' with greenery and a) 150 years 'baby' or 'young' in benches, plus a few b) 200 years their name. Spring terraces. As for the c) 25 years onions, baby cabbage, current pedestrian young peas, young zone, we’ve been 3 One of Zagreb’s modern museums carrots... you name it. advocating for has 30 branches worldwide. Which Of course, there is also free drinking water points on the museum is it? spring lamb or spring Flower square and Manduševac for a) Museum of Illusions chicken for the carni- years. Manduševac is a place where b) Museum of Broken Relationships vores. free drinking water was available for c) 80’s Museum centuries. Even city legends speak to the fact that water there was Answers always drinkable, not just watchable 1 c. Zagreb’s first market sat in front of the (in a fountain). The return of this cathedral; more precisely at Kaptolska Klet. century-old function to Manduševac 2 b. The oak is about 200 years old. Its is a matter of communal, public exact birthday is unknown. health and civilization standard; 3 a. Museum of Illusions opened 30 it’s even a part of Zagreb's urban branches worldwide in five years, the latest tradition. Today, all of this is es- one in New Delhi.

ZAGREB ZOO’S SPRING BODIES 2.0, a new JARUN IS HOSTING FESTIVAL, celebrating exhibition about the THE WORLD ROWING COOL nature’s reawakening, is secrets of the human CUP from April 30 + on through April 11. Little body, is on at Klovićevi till May 2. Sinković TURE school of ornithology, Dvori from April 8 brothers, who are babies of the animal through June 20. This is a world champions, will world and other tours are 3D insight into anatomy, be competing in the available every hour on the with as many as 200 biggest global rowing hour each weekend. Plus human body exhibits, all event after the world don’t miss a special bunny preserved by a special championships – on show on Easter Monday! method of impregnation. their home turf, at that. @zoo.hr @bodies-izlozba.hr @zagrebrowing.com ZAGREB’S AIRPORT GETS TOP GRADES – YET AGAIN

t may not be as busy and buzzing Ias it once was, before the great pandemic pause that grounded flights worldwide, but Zagreb’s Franjo Tuđman Airport is still as beloved. In fact, in 2020 it won another coveted award, for the third year in a row, by Airports Council International. And it’s not just any old award. ACI interviews some 670,000 passengers per year, at airports all around the world, before boarding their flight and asks to rate their satisfaction with The voting was in the the airport’s services. The global category of airports survey measures passengers’ which handle between satisfaction with the airport and 2-5 million passengers releases the results as part of the annually. The awards annual Airport Service Quality were announced in (ASQ) Awards. Montreal, Canada, in Croatia’s largest and busiest March 2021. airport, Zagreb turns out much is not loved and appreciated yet again, only popular with as the passengers voted it Best passengers, it’s also Airport in Europe by Size and Awards that Franjo Tuđman Airport won since beautiful. The new Region for the third consecutive it was unveiled in its new guise: terminal is a visual year. This time it shares the award 2017. Most Improved Airport stunner, with the with airports in Krasnoyarsk, 2018. Best Airport in Europe by Size and Region organic curves of its Russian Federation; Skopje, North 2019. Best Airport in Europe by Size and Region roof that look almost Macedonia; and Tallinn, Estonia. 2020. Best Airport in Europe by Size and Region like lacy fabric floating over the interior. Zagreb airport is loving all the love and can’t wait to welcome heaps of people taking to the skies yet again. * Check out the new photo exhibit just unveiled at the airport, Zagreb Likes Green.

MADE BY: This creativity fair at the Journalists' House, to be held on April 10 and 11, will present around 30 designers, artists and craftsmen from Croatia 2250 m and beyond. Admission is free and the exhibition closes at 7pm. CROATIA TO THE WORLD, an exhibition on Croatia’s inspiring inventors and Lake Jarun’s regatta course is lengthy! innovators, is on until May 15 at the Meštrović Pavilion. @hrvatskasvijetu.hr WHAT: The UEFA Futsal Champions League finals.WHERE: The Zagreb Arena. WHEN: From April 28 to May 3. Who: The eight best teams in all of Europe! @zagrebarena.hr ŠPANCIRAMO ZAGREBOM: Check out this exhibition by amateur artists of Zagreb at Cultural Center Travno. @kuctravno.hr Discover the N spa with a pedigree ANJA MUTIĆ 60 min If a spa can have a from Zagreb writes for BBC Travel, the Washington Post pedigree, Varaždin- and many more. ske Toplice would Follow her at @everthenomad have a long and noble line. 74 km northeast of Zagreb, this charming namesake town was first estab- lished as a spa in 3rd century BC The lure by ancient Romans. You can see the remains of the original spa but of hyper- better yet is to treat yourself to the local modern hot springs, healing mud or a relaxing massage. e've all learned a Wlot this past year, a unique one for all of humanity and for our beloved city. One of the things that stayed with me the most - learning to love local. As travel Tip: Don't skip the famous came to a sudden halt, toplička (spa) cake, made with we've all had to turn heaps of walnuts exclusively to our own backyards, for the spa hotel. explore the hidden blind spots and dig into our own gardens to find the seeds among weeds. We were faced with a challenge: how to turn the fa- miliar into someplace exciting. ANDREA PISAC or me, the new thrill has become Global anthropologist and Zagreb F writer with a twist. Follow her at peeling off the layers @travelhonestly.com and finding bits of everyday gold amidst Honestly, the dust. To sprinkle my spring with a little know your whys extra joy, I pop into Tvoje, the flower shop s kids, we were often asked why and concept store that Awe loved someone or some- opened recently in place. Remember how in primary my neighborhood and school we wrote reports with titles I pick the brightest, such as 'Why I love my city.' In high most colorful flower. school, however, we learned from A huge fan of freshly ancient Greek philosophers that baked goodies, I stop real love cannot be reasoned with. by the Martićeva oday I am somewhere between outpost of Korica, Tthose opposites. Zagreb doesn't Zagreb's delicious arti- have to do anything to woo me into sanal bakery, and grab being its fan. Zagreb is mine and I their divine almond simply love it. That said, I believe croissants or the shu- in the power of knowing my whys. kopan, Japanese milk I go about listing all the quirks and bread that sells out idiosyncrasies that only a close within minutes. I get friend would know – if Zagreb was my coffee-to-go at Pro- a person. I trace the places where gram cafe-bar, the hub the city cracks open just a tad wid- of my hood that keeps er so I can see its soul. My favorite community spirits sounds are of trams squealing high, and take a stroll as they make a turn on Franko- around Krešimirac, the panska street. Or a pitter-patter green oasis closest to of someone climbing the wooden my home, for some tree Kapuciner steps towards the Upper therapy. Town. I use shortcuts in the Lower hen I crave some Town, not to save time but to tread Wreal-deal Thai, I the path only a local knows about grab pad thai at Khaos (hello Marić passage). Thai, the food stand he more whys I list for myself, by Iblerov square that Tthe more I begin to understand satisfies my need for my love for the city. This is a luxury worldly flavors. All that only a writer who depicts her city within a few blocks, to visitors has: we can both love for and I feel good at home. no reason and we can list a million reasons why. Tip: Reserve your loaf of Korica’s yummy Tip: Make a list of why you love shukopan bread on Zagreb, a list of your favorite sounds, Insta. sites and scents in the city. Best of Zagreb Sightseeing on mountain Zagreb has a special bond with the verdant Medvednica mountain that overlooks it from the north. In the past, Medvednica provided people with protection and food. Today, we visit its peaks and huts to nourish our souls. This lush woodland is a nature park but it also showcases several amazing human-made sites.

1. Sljeme chapel 5. Horvat stairs This graceful stone chapel was built Fifty+ years after in 1932 to celebrate 1000 years of journalist Vladimir the Kingdom of Croatia. For that Horvat built them, reason, its interior features materials these astounding 500 from all corners of Croatia, such as stairs look as if made stone from Brač island, oak from by nature herself. If Slavonia and clay from Petrova Gora. you want a unique peek into karst pits 2. and sinkholes, boot up The view of Zagreb from and start climbing – this medieval fort is without this is as close as you'll competition. Feed your curiosity get to this singular by visiting two important sites landscape. here: the 13th-century octagonal Chapel of St Philip and Jacob and the modern-day Altar of the Homeland. 6. The peak 3. Veternica cave You’ll recognize With subterranean canals that the very peak of span 380 meters, Veternica cave Medvednica, Sljeme, impresses with its unique rock by the TV tower built formations, such as the Stone there in the 1970s. Waterfall. The cave is also a You are now at 1031 dwelling place for the protected meters; from this spot bat species. the view breaks to the opposite direction, 4. Sopot waterfall onto the gorgeous Medvednica teems with streams rolling hills of and brooks, many of which Hrvatsko Zagorje. flow into the river or the Maksimir lakes. If you love the sound of rumbling water, hike to the Sopot waterfall, with cascades that offer a deep sound cleanse.

NUMBERS 24-HOUR PHARMACIES Ban Jelačić square 3, +385 1 48 16 198 HELP TAXI 301, +385 1 37 50 321 Radio Taxi Zagreb (1717) Grižanska 4, +385 1 29 92 350 Zebra Taxi (072 9090) V. Holjevca 22, +385 1 65 25 425 112 RIDE2 Taxi (1616) Ozaljska 1, tel. +385 1 30 97 586 Taxi Cammeo (1212) EKO Taxi (1414) Uber THE MOST USEFUL CARD With Zagreb Card, tourists get free transport and access to six attractions, plus ticket discounts for 56 locations. The daily card is 98KN, a three−day card is 135KN. @zagrebcard.com

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Don't waste paper. Use it or . . . . . N TASTE OF ZAGREB THE BIGGEST powered by Taste of Croatia LAST MINUTE RACE IN HISTORY Spring lamb It's not goodbye, it's au revoir The more special A fantastic first for Croatia - Zagreb is places you've discovered hosting today's best rally drivers in the for a tasty on your trip to Zagreb, World Rally Championship. Over four days, the bigger are the chanc- from April 22 through 25, 80 crews will run spring es you'll come back. To the local roads across three counties and the seal this deal, throw a City of Zagreb. From the kickoff in Zagreb, pring lamb is available from the very beginning of the year, but it’s coin into the Manduševac through the Samobor hills to Medvednica S spring at Ban Jelačić and Zagorje, drivers will cover almost 1300 still one of the first true heralds of square. The water from kilometers. Another first, this time for the spring. When we add spring onions, WRC: part of the racetrack will be indoors, radishes and dill to spring lamb, the the fountain is believed to inside the pavillion*. The unique world becomes brighter, greener and have the power to grant Zagreb rally is also the first asphalt race on sunnier. Croats traditionally prepare wishes. So, close your this year's World Championship calendar. the lamb whole, grilled or baked, with eyes and flick a coin in. More information at @rally-croatia.com a side of potatoes. There’s nothing We'll see you back soon. wrong with this delicious family feast, but aromatic and delicate 45 km lamb meat procured from one of the islands or from the mountains 4am deserves some extra attention. Kumrovec Zabok ON CALL Lešo (boiled) lamb and kalja (lamb ZAGREB Samobor and veggie stew) are simple and EVERY NIGHT, somewhat rustic meals; think a dish grandma would cook up for a healthy JUST IN CASE

Riv lunch. Lamb tripe and liver, on the At night when most of the er Karlovac Sa other hand, are delicacies usually va city’s establishments shut reserved for foodies. Cutlets are a down, its pharmacies re- challenge for serious chefs, and they main open. Of course, not can be served up in almost any way all of them, but seven re- imaginable. Creative cooks, like those main on duty every night at Bistro Beštija, always come up offering first aid. 24-hour with something different, be it their pharmacies are scattered own creation or a new interpretation throughout the city, from of the classics. Beštija is ringing in Ban Jelačić square to spring with breaded lamb alongside Trešnjevka, from Dubrava roasted beets, cauliflower, grilled to . Address- asparagus and a spring onion salad. es of on-call pharmacies, Bistro Beštija: breaded lamb with plus nifty info about the roasted beets, cauliflower, grilled 600-year-long tradition of asparagus and salad with spring on- pharmacology in Zagreb, ions, 88KN can be found at @gljz.hr.

*1 indoor race Zagreb has WRC CROATIA 2021 become an all-out cycling metropolis. The latest official data shows 4 days 1285 km that the city has a total of road 22 speed of 431 kilometers of bike tests 80 paths; of those 246 are crews along roads, and the rest are dedicated bike lanes. The number of bicycle parking lots is also RALLY MAP 2021 on the rise; growing from 23 locations five years ago to 146 Kumrovec today. Plus rentable Zabok bikes await on each corner. SHAKEDOWN - Thursday 22, April STAGE 1 - Friday 23, April STAGE 2 - Saturday 24, April PLAY FOODSIE The first bike STAGE 3 - Sunday 25, April arrived in Zagreb ZAGREB Croatians are not big on pairing sweet and savory flavors, unless it's in 1867, and the city’s Easter. Around this time of year, you first cycling race took can match sweet pinca, Croatian place in 1886 Samobor Easter bread, with cooked gam- at Zrinjevac mon, boiled eggs or smoked cheese. park. Early spring is also a transition from heavy buttery desserts into Published by: fluffy and airy sweets. A 30 stupnjeva perfect excuse to go Editors: to the nearest pastry Anja Mutić, shop and snag Andrea Pisac Zagreb kremšni- Contact: Karlovac ta, a custard [email protected] cream cake with In partnership with an added layer of Zagreb Tourist Board whipped cream and Print: Stega tisak d.o.o. chocolate glazing. www.zagreb4you.com