Country-Wine-Recipes

30 COUNTRY WINE RECIPES PLUS TIPS

Please note all file contents are Copyright © 2020 Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved. This file is for the buyer’s personal use only. It’s unlawful to share or distribute this file to others in any way including e-mailing it, posting it online, or sharing printed copies with others. 10 TIPS FOR COUNTRY WINEMAKING BY JACK KELLER

n the beginning, there was wine . . . just wine. There wasn’t “wine” (made from grapes) and “country I wine” (made from fruits other than grapes). A pomegranate wine is mentioned in the Bible, in addition to wines of “the vine,” but the author of Song of Songs — the book in which it is mentioned — did not express the modernview that it was a lesser wine. If you take as much care select- ing your ingredients and crafting your country wine as grape-wine makers do with theirs, you can make a wine that can hold its head high among the Cabs and Chardonnays of this world. Here are some tips for maximizing the country winemaking experience. Most of these apply to the other kinds of wine as well.

1. ALL FRUIT ARE NOT EQUAL There is no comparison between su- permarket fruit and just-picked ripe fruit. Commercial fruits are picked when the grower thinks they are ripe enough to make it to the farthest market without spoiling. The fruit go to a sorting plant where they are culled, sorted by ripeness, packed for shipping and either sold on contract or sold to jobbers. The jobber may take actual possession of the fruit and store it temporarily or sell it as it is being sorted and packed. It is loaded onto trucks and transshipped to many distribution points around the coun- Photo by Shutterstock.com try. There it is offloaded in warehous- red and look luscious. After 5–7 days, its sugar content. With a few excep- es, broken down to deliverable lots, they will be showing signs of age or tions (persimmons come to mind), reloaded onto trucks with other pro- spoilage. The same with those peach- a fruit is as ripe as it will ever be the duce, and shipped out to retail stores es — their blush will deepen as they moment it was picked. The U.S. De- and supermarkets. There it is offload- arrive at the retailer and for several partment of Agriculture measured ed again, transferred to displays and days thereafter, but after a few days the average store-bought peach as eventually sold. they begin to deteriorate internally. containing 8.7% sugar. A tree-rip- If the fruit are strawberries from And they should. By now it’s been ened peach might contain as much as California or peaches from Georgia, 8–11 days since they were picked. And 13–15% sugar. Those California straw- they could have been picked five days think about all that produce from berries will average 5.7% sugar, while before they appear in our market. If Chile, Peru, Ecuador, Panama, etc. plant-ripened strawberries reach the picker and the sorter and the job- that has been off the vine, bush or 11–13%. ber and the buyer each do his job per- tree even longer. On the other hand, some fruit are fectly, those strawberries will just be In truth, most fruit is picked so perfectly ripe when picked. Depend- turning red enough to look ripe when early that it never ripens. It changes ing on ripeness, they might be sent to they arrive at our retail market. After color, gets softer and may shed a tiny be canned, processed into puree for 3–4 days on display, they will be deep bit of acidity, but it does not increase pastries, pies, yogurt, ice cream, jam,

1 WineMaker Magazine Country Wines © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved jelly or, if really ripe, juiced or flash right now, there is little advantage in berries, kiwi-fruit, etc., tie them in a frozen. freezing them; they pretty much dis- pressing bag and press to extract the There are two ways to look at this. integrate while fermenting whether juice. If hard (apples, cooking pears) All factors being optimized, there is fresh or defrosted. In other words, or semi-hard (peaches, plums, nec- an order of freshness and an order freezing them does not really re- tarines) fruit, thaw if frozen, chop or of ripeness. Freshness means the lease more juice. Some fruits suffer crush it if not already in that condi- whole, unprocessed fruit and rates it from freezing and defrosting — ba- tion, add just enough water to cover with respect to texture, flavor, natu- nanas, pawpaws, soft pears and mel- fruit, and add pectic enzyme as re- ral sugar, acidity (both TA and pH), ons. Hard pears, apples, pineapples quired. After 10–12 hours, the fruit color, and tannin (if any). On that and citrus fruit will keep a fairly long should be transferred to a pressing scale, in descending order of fresh- time if stored correctly; if they must bag and easily pressed to release the ness when consumed (or prepared be frozen, it is best to juice them and juice. for wine), are fresh picked, roadside freeze the juice. Citrus should be manually juiced. farm or orchard outlet, co-operative There is a difference between Pomegranates are best juiced by outlet and retail store. On a scale of home freezing and commercial flash separating the seed sacs and heat- optimum ripeness, the descending freezing. We can flash freeze fruit ing them until the sacs break while order is fresh picked, roadside farm or in our home freezer, but we have to stirring. Bananas are not juiced, but orchard outlet, flash frozen fruit, co- freeze the berries or fruit pieces in- sliced and cooked in water until a gray operative outlet, juice, canned fruit, dividually and then consolidate and scum stops forming on the surface. concentrate and retail store. package them. This takes anywhere from 25–45 min- Of course, when supermarkets Finally, we cannot make eisewein utes. Skim the scum off with a large feature “locally grown” produce, it (ice wine) by simply freezing grapes spoon, strain and discard the fruit and should be up there with the roadside in our freezers. That topic is well be- use the water. farm or orchard outlet on the first yond the scope of this article, but it is We now measure the volume of day it is displayed. We have to decide a misconception many have. juice, note this, and subtract it from if we want to try to capture freshness the total volume of wine we are mak- or ripeness. Either way, growing our 3. WHEN IT MATTERS, ing. The difference is the amount of own or visiting a U-Pick-It farm im- MEASURE THE JUICE sugar, water and other ingredients mediately before we start the wine Most of us begin making country required to make up the total volume. can’t be beat if we know how to pick wines by following winemaking reci- ripe fruit. pes. These tell us how much of this 4. UNDERSTAND POTENTIAL and how much of that to use, but they ALCOHOL 2. FREEZE (SOME) FRUIT OR are not always precise when it comes There are three ways to refer to the BERRIES BEFORE USING to total volume. sweetness of a must — Brix, specific Freezing, even flash freezing, does Many country wine recipes are es- gravity (SG) and potential alcohol not lock in freshness — it destroys tablished for one gallon (~4 L) but ac- (PA). Both Brix and specific grav- it. But it does lock in ripeness. Fresh- tually make a little more than that so ity are scales utilized to measure the ness and ripeness, as we have already we have some to top up with. The rec- relative amount of sugar in a juice or seen, do not equate. We will lose fla- ipes do not say so, but we are expect- must. vor when we freeze fruit or berries, ed to transfer the liquid and pressed Brix is expressed in degrees, each but probably not much. What we will juice from primary to secondary and degree equivalent to one gram of sug- lose is texture. That is the main point put any extra in an appropriately sized ar (specifically sucrose) per 100 grams of freezing fruit for wine — to break wine bottle and seal it with an airlock. of grape juice. While one degree of down the texture and release more (A #3 bung fits most wine bottles, but Brix equates to one percent of sugar, juice. Other reasons are to postpone those with very narrow mouths take the rule of thumb that 2 °Brix will fer- its use or to store small harvests until a #2.) ment to 1% alcohol is an approxima- we have enough for a batch. However, we may want to be tion only. The predicted alcohol level Freezing just picked blueber- more exacting than this. When we of the wine is expressed as: degrees ries, cranberries, gooseberries, figs, are working with whole fruit or ber- peaches, nectarines or many other ries, this can be a problem because we fruit for later use makes sense. Ice don’t really know up front how much crystals breach their texture and it juice the fruit will yield. It then be- breaks down upon defrosting. With comes necessary to press the fruit or only light crushing, they ferment berries and measure the juice before much better than they would have the must is constituted. We might fresh. But unless we are growing our want to do this to determine the vol- own strawberries, plums, kiwifruit, ume of juice or better balance the passion fruit, mangos, jujubes, gua- must before pitching the yeast. va or papayas and have too many or If the fruit is soft and easily not enough or just can’t start a wine pressed, such as blackberries, rasp-

2 WineMaker Magazine Country Wines © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved Brix multiplied by 0.55 equals per- cause the person using the recipe uses tionship between those numbers, the cent alcohol. In other words, 22 °Brix a higher alcohol yeast than intended, amount of sugar required to generate does not ferment to 11% alcohol, but uses a sweeter fruit or less water those numbers, and the PA also rep- slightly over 12%. Brix is named after than the recipe developer used or the resented. its inventor, Adolph Brix. winemaker doesn’t understand how There is one line on the chart ev- Specific gravity is the density, or to balance a finished wine. Too much eryone ought to know by heart. An SG weight per unit of volume, of a sub- alcohol throws the wine out of balance of 1.090 is produced by two pounds of stance divided by the density of dis- and makes it “hot” on the palate. This sugar dissolved in one gallon of distilled water. The density of distilled may be just fine at a frat party and for tilled water, with a corresponding water is 1 gram per cubic centimeter, those who just want a buzz, but it is Brix of 22 and a PA a tad over 12%. For or 1.000. Specific gravity is always not good wine. most fruit wines, 13.5% is about the expressed to the third digit right of Thus, the importance of knowing maximum one should attempt if we the decimal point — the SG of dis- the original Brix or specific gravity of want a balanced table wine. tilled water is not 1, but 1.000. An SG a juice or must is knowing how much of 1.050 indicates that the substance potential alcohol is contained in that 5. ALL SUGAR IS NOT EQUAL is 5% heavier than an equal volume of number. In the table on the page 2, It is quite possible to take 4 lbs. (1.8 distilled water, the difference being we can see the relationship between kg) of fresh blackberries and make a sugar, nutrient and acid. One can cal- SG, Brix and PA. Because most coun- number of different wines with them culate the potential alcohol (PA) from try wines require that we add sugar using exactly the same formula and the SG, but it is much simpler to use a to the must, knowing the PA of the method but varying the type of sug- look-up table or chart. must is crucially important. Whether ar. Without going too deeply into the More often than not, recipes tend measured in SG or Brix is immaterial math, 4 lbs. (1.8 kg) of blackberries to make too much alcohol, either be- as long as one understands the rela- contain 5 oz. (143 grams) of natural Photo by Shutterstock.com

3 WineMaker Magazine Country Wines © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved sugar. If we use those berries to make Even very finely granulated sugar the yeast. Look at the bottom of the a gallon of 12% alcohol wine, we need does not dissolve easily. The easi- secondary every 30 days or so, lift- to press the berries, add 1 lb. 11 oz. est and most exacting way to add ing it and looking at it against a dark (0.77 kg) of sugar to the juice and top sugar is as simple syrup. Measure the background in strong light. It is not up to an even gallon of liquid. We can amount of sugar needed to be added ready for bottling until it has gone a then add the pulp back if we desire for and set it aside in a bowl. Now take reasonable period without dropping the first week or so of fermentation. half that amount of water and bring it any “dust.” To change the finished wine, all we to a boil. Obviously, half the amount need do is change the sugar we add. refers to volume, not weight. If we 10. DEGAS EARLY We can add Barbados, brown, cane, added 1 lb. 8 oz. (0.68 kg) of white Yeast convert sugar into ethanol, car- corn, demerara, dextrose, fructose, granulated sugar and its volume was bon dioxide (CO2) and a few minor 1 glucose, honey, jaggery, levulose, 3 ⁄4 cups (769 mL), we would bring byproducts. As fermentation slows, 5 8 maltose, maple, molasses, Musco- about 1 ⁄ cups (384 mL) of water to a less and less CO2 is produced. Eventu- vado, piloncillo, sucanat, treacle, Tur- boil , turn off the heat and stir in the ally, the CO2 does not create enough binado or a number of other sugars. sugar. Stir until completely dissolved pressure inside the carboy to push Each will produce a slightly different and the liquid is clear, which could be through the water in the airlock. 3 4 wine. 2–5 minutes. If adding honey, ⁄ cup When that happens, the CO2 has to go Do not use powdered or confec- (177 mL) of honey equals one cup of somewhere, so it goes into the wine. tioner’s sugar in wine. Yes, it will sugar; dissolve in an equal amount of When a wine becomes saturated with dissolve quickly, but it contains corn- water, continue boiling while stirring CO2, it lies. A hydrometer will say the starch to keep the sugar molecules to bring all impurities in the honey to wine is not quite finished, but the sat- from sticking together in one huge the surface, skim off impurities with urated gas is lifting the hydrometer. A lump and it will produce a persistent a spoon. test for titratable acid (TA) shows 0.92 starch haze. Adding sugar as syrup allows it to instead of the 0.65 we expected; car- be integrated easily into the juice or bonic acid, a byproduct of the satu-

6. CREATE THE PROPER must by simple stirring. Stirring also rated CO2, is elevating the reading. VOLUME micro-oxygenates the must enough When a wine appears to have fin- Suppose we press our fruit and get 1.5 to allow yeast to rapidly reproduce. ished and the hydrometer says it al- quarts (1.4 L) of juice. Do we drop in After about three days, the yeast will most has, degas the wine. Whether the hydrometer? No, unless we are have consumed most of the free oxy- one uses a Fizz-X agitator, a plain old just curious. Suppose we are mak- gen in the must and will be ferment- wooden dowel or a vacuum pump, ing a gallon batch and want to add an ing vigorously. stop after a few seconds to see how the 11.5-ounce (330 g) can of frozen grape When a recipe says to add half the wine reacts. If a lot of bubbles burst concentrate to enhance body. We do sugar initially and the rest at a later loose, aggressive degassing could 1 this now and then top up to exactly ⁄2 date, adding a syrup eliminates the produce a volcanic-type eruption. gallon (1.9 L). Now we take a hydrom- possibility that nucleation points on Degas in short spurts until the danger eter reading. the grains of sugar will cause the must of a blowout is past. After degassing, Suppose the SG is 1.080. If we add- to erupt in foam generated from sus- wait 2–4 hours and do it again. If no ed a half-gallon (~2 L) of water to this pended or dissolved carbon dioxide notable amount of gas is released, the to make up a full gallon (~4 L), the SG (CO2). operation is probably successful. This would only be 1.040. So we treat it as is a good time to check the SO2 level 1.040 and see from the hydrometer 8. SELECT THE YEAST and add potassium metabisulfite if table (on page 2) that we need to add CAREFULLY needed. Wait 24 hours before analyz- 1 lb. 2 oz. (0.51 kg) of sugar to reach Wine yeasts are cultured and coming the wine further. 1.090, a good starting point. We add mercialized because they impart the sugar first (as syrup) and then or promote certain characteristics. PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE bring the volume up to one gallon. These characteristics are well known, Many country wines taste quite rough Then, just to be sure, we take another but often depend on fermenting at immediately after fermentation. It is hydrometer reading. If the SG is a tad the proper temperature or adding difficult to believe a parsnip, beet- low, add sugar. This would also be a specific nutrients. If we cannot satis- root, agarita, pea pod, salmonberry good time to test for titratable acid- fy the specific requirements of a spe- or even dandelion wine will ever be- ity (TA) and pH and make corrections cific strain, we should select another come acceptable, let alone exquisite. if warranted. If we want to add the strain. But every day, someone opens a wine pomace (pressed pulp) to the pri- last evaluated as “yuck” and discov- mary, we can tie it in a nylon strain- 9. RACK AS OFTEN AS ers the miracle of aging. It would take ing bag and do it now. The volume of REQUIRED a book to explain this transformation, the must increases, but the amount of Wine needs to be racked as often as so accept that very few wines without liquid remains unchanged. needed; there isn’t any optimum an identifiable fault ever deserve to be number. Hasten clearing by stabi- tossed out. All they need is patience. 7. ADD SUGAR AS SYRUP lizing early and fining to pull down

Combine water and sugar in a the wine. STRAWBERRY WINE saucepot and heat to dissolve the Makes 1 gallon (3.8 liters) sugar. Cool. Pour the sugar solution STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN into primary fermenter. Stir in acid By Alexis Hartung blend, grape tannin, pectic enzyme, CREAM Makes 5 gallons (19 L) yeast nutrient and Campden tablet, per Strawberry wine colors range from deep instructions above. Hydrometer read- By Alex Russan red to light pink to pinkish-orange. ing will be 21–22 °Brix. Take an acid However, the color tends to be unstable. reading using an acid test kit. Adjust Ed Whitworth of Taylorsville, Kentucky For a more deeply colored wine, choose acid levels to 0.55 to 0.65 (1 teaspoon won a gold medal for his strawberry and strawberries that are red all the way acid blend will increase the acid level Bavarian cream wine. Ed learned a lot through.To enhance the color and flavor by approximately 0.15). If desired, pre- about winemaking from the previous of fermented strawberry wine, try adding pare a yeast starter at this time. Cover generation of local home winemakers a strawberry concentrate or strawberry primary fermenter and wait 24 hours. (and, of course, tells me he reads every juice. When adding a concentrate or juice Add the yeast starter or rehydrate issue of WineMaker cover-to-cover), and to a finished wine, remember to add po- the package of wine yeast in 1/4 cup now he is especially active at his local tassium sorbate (1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon per warm (105 °F/41 °C) water per pack- winemaking supply store to help mentor gallon) to prevent further fermentation. age instructions. Stir the yeast into the the next generation of home winemakers. must. Cover. Stir vigorously twice daily. For his Strawberry Bavarian Cream INGREDIENTS After 4 to 6 days or when hydrometer wine, Ed uses an old recipe as a guide- 3–5 pounds (1.4 to 2.25 kg) fully rip- reading is 8 °Brix (specific gravity line, but with the caveat that “every year ened or frozen strawberries 1.030), press juice from bag and place your weather is different, which means 7 pints water wine into glass secondary fermenter. the strawberries are different, so you’ve 2 pounds (0.9 kg) corn sugar Attach airlock half-filled with water gotta play with it.” Generally, he uses the 1 1 to 1- ⁄2 teaspoons acid blend (1 oz.). following: 1 ⁄4 teaspoon grape tannin, dissolved in When fermentation is complete (0 a small amount of boiling water to 1.5 °Brix, specific gravity 1.000 to INGREDIENTS 10 drops liquid pectic enzyme (if using 0.994), about 7 to 10 days, rack off the 36 lbs. (16.3 kg) strawberries (which he dry pectic enzyme, follow manufac- sediment into another clean and sterile freezes for 30 days and then thaws turer’s directions) glass secondary. Stabilize by adding 1 completely prior to use). He puts 1 teaspoon yeast nutrient with ener- Campden tablet, crushed and dissolved them in a cheesecloth bag for fer- gizer in a small amount of warm water. mentation. 1 Campden tablet, crushed and dis- Once fermentation is complete, Fine granulated sugar to around 1.085 solved it will begin to clear. Add the fining specific gravity (20.5 °Brix). This 1 package wine yeast (Red Star Côte (clearing) agent, Sparkolloid, according is not powdered sugar, but is finer des Blancs or Lalvin 71B-1122) to directions on package. Let sit 2–3 sugar than standard granulated. Fine mesh straining bag weeks and rack again. Let sit 3 more ~2 gallons (7.6 L) spring water weeks and rack again. When clear, Lalvin EC-1118 yeast After fermentation: taste and then test the acidity using Yeast nutrient 1 Campden tablet an acid test kit. If the acid level needs 1 tsp. per gallon (4 L) acid blend Sparkolloid, per package instructions adjusting, add citric acid. Filter and Pectic enzyme “I used to use the drops Potassium sorbate, if wine is to be bottle. — about 40 drops for strawberries sweet If a dry wine is preferred, check the — but it seemed like it just didn’t sulfite level and adjust to 35–45 ppm perform.” He uses the powder now, STEP-BY-STEP free sulfite. For a sweet wine, dissolve which brings the must to a nice 1 Pick berries fully ripe. Remove stems, ⁄2 teaspoon potassium sorbate per “bright, strawberry, rose-y color.” leaves and foreign matter. Cut and gallon (3.8 liters) in a small amount Potassium sorbate discard any rotten fruit. Wash and of water. Add to the wine and stir. Campden tablets drain. To contain pulp and tiny seeds, Then dissolve 4 tablespoons sugar Lorann Oils Bavarian cream flavoring place fruit in a fine-mesh nylon strain- in 2 tablespoons water (the residual (to taste) ing bag. To keep all of the pulp in the sugar level will be a dry level with straining bag, tie the top of the bag. If this amount). Add to the wine. Stir STEP-BY-STEP frozen fruit is used, thaw. Lightly mash thoroughly. Wait approximately 20–30 To start, Ed will warm a half-gallon (4 the fresh fruit. Place juice into primary minutes before tasting the wine. Add L) of spring water (never tap), and mix fermenter. Place the fruit-filled bag in more sugar using a simple syrup solu- all of his non-strawberry ingredients the primary fermenter. tion, as desired. Filter if needed. Bottle into it as they dissolve better in warm

5 WineMaker Magazine Country Wines © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved BERRY FRUIT RECIPES water. He’ll add this and another 1.5 giving them out to friends. days, strain the solids from the must gallons (6 L) of water to his fermen- using a sanitized straining bag or a ter, then place the cheesecloth bag sieve. Rack into a sanitized one-gallon of strawberries into it. He lets the “CLARET” BLUEBERRY WINE fermentation vessel and top off with bag sit for a half hour, after which he Makes 1 gallon (3.8 liters) cold water. Attach a sanitized fermen- squeezes it out into the fermenter. At tation lock to the fermenter. Rack the this point he’ll know if he needs to By Rich Gulling wine after ten days. Top off with cold add any more water to later fill a 5- or water. Let wine stand for 60 days. Rack 6-gallon (19- or 23-L) carboy. If more A claret-style wine is similar to a dry and top off with water. Let stand for 10 water is needed he adds it now and red French wine with a fruitier taste and more days, rack, add 1 Campden tablet, then returns the bag to the fermenter aroma. Natural tannins from the skin of and bottle. Bottle age for three to six and waits a few days to pitch his yeast. the blueberries give this wine the char- months before drinking. This delay in yeast pitching allows all acteristic “pucker” that’s typical of dry the ingredients to mix in order to get wines. a more accurate reading of sugar with This wine will go quite well with DESSERT BLUEBERRY WINE his hydrometer. grilled chicken in addition to beef and Makes 1 gallon (3.8 liters) Once fermentation is finished there pork. This recipe yields 1 gallon (3.8 li- is very little strawberry left in the ters) of wine. The starting gravity will be By Rich Gulling cheesecloth bag and most of the solids 1.190 to 1.100 and the potential alcohol will now be mixed into the wine. Be- is 12 to 13 percent. This recipe makes a sweet, full-bodied cause of this, he racks once per month, dessert wine with good legs and tremen- for at least five months, until the wine INGREDIENTS dous sweet blueberry flavor. You can turn is totally sediment-free. He adds one 3 pounds (1.4 kg) fresh blueberries (2 this fruit wine into an elegant cordial by Campden tablet at each racking — pre- quarts) adding a cup of good quality brandy to a ferring to introduce SO2 little by little, 1.5 pounds (900 g) sugar standard-size wine bottle and topping off rather than one large dose at the be- 3 quarts (1.5 liter) boiling water the bottle with blueberry dessert wine. ginning. 1 teaspoon (5 g) acid blend The port-style wine yeast in this Ed adds sugar to taste prior to 1 cup (237 mL) red grape concentrate recipe helps give the wine some of the bottling — again, using a recipe as a (Zinfandel works well) characteristics of a classic port dessert loose guideline, but trusting his own 1 teaspoon (5 g) pectic enzyme wine. Many winemaking supply stores palate. He’s even more careful when 1 cup (237 ml) orange juice carry this type of yeast, and it can also adding the Bavarian cream flavoring 1 (5 to 7 g) package red wine yeast be found on the Internet, but any red from Lorann Oils. “You have to be (Pasteur Red works well) wine yeast can be substituted with good very, very careful. One drop too many 1 Campden tablet results. This recipe yields 1 gallon (3.8 li- can be way too much. It’s very potent ters) of wine. The starting gravity will be and not worth the risk to experiment STEP BY STEP 1.125 and the potential alcohol is about with the whole batch.” He does a test Sanitize all equipment. Place the blue- 14 percent. batch with a single bottle’s worth of berries and sugar into a two-gallon wine. He’ll slowly add and taste, and (7.6 liters) primary fermentation vat. INGREDIENTS once the wine tastes how he wants, Crush berries using a potato masher. 4 pounds fresh blueberries (approxi- he’ll add the corresponding amount to Add three quarts of boiling water, mately 3 quarts or 1.8 kg) the entire batch. The amount he ends acid blend and red grape concentrate. 1.5 pounds sugar (900 g) up using varies from year-to-year and Cover the container with a clean towel. 1 pound clover honey (454 g) fruit-to-fruit. Let mixture cool to approximately 75° 3 quarts boiling water (1.5 liter) “I made a peaches and cream wine, F (24°C). Then add the pectic enzyme. 1 teaspoon (5 g) acid blend which won a silver, and [it and the Mix the wine yeast and the orange 1 teaspoon (5 g) pectic enzyme strawberry wine] had entirely differ- juice in a sanitized one-quart jar and 1 cup orange juice (237 mL) ent amounts of both sugar and cream let stand until mixture is bubbling (ap- 1 package (5 to 7 g) port-style wine flavoring. Testing with a small amount proximately one hour). Then add it to yeast of wine will save you a lot of potential the cooled blueberry must. Loosely 1 Campden tablet heartache,” Ed says. cover the primary fermentation vessel Ed adds potassium sorbate to the with plastic or a towel and store in a STEP BY STEP wine before bottling to preclude refer- warm place. Stir the must twice daily Sanitize all equipment. Add honey mentation, as the wine is once again using a sanitized, long-handled plastic and water to a stainless steel, glass sweet. He also lets the wine rest for at spoon. Let the primary fermentation or enamel pot. Bring the honey-water least two weeks after bottling before continue for seven days. After seven mixture to a boil, skimming off any

foam that rises to the top. if using dry pectic enzyme follow three days or when hydrometer read- Place blueberries and sugar into a manufacturer’s directions) ing is 8 °Brix (specific gravity 1.030), two-gallon (7.6 liter) primary fermenta- 1 tsp. yeast nutrient with energizer lightly press juice from bag and trans- tion vat. Crush berries using a potato 1 Campden tablet, crushed and dis- fer to the secondary fermenter. Siphon masher. Add the honey and water mix- solved the remaining wine from the primary ture. Add acid blend and cover with a container into a glass secondary fer- towel. STEP-BY-STEP menter. Attach a fermentation lock Let mixture cool to approximately Pick your raspberries when they are half filled with water. Discard pulp and 75° F (24° C). Add the pectic enzyme. fully ripe. Remove all stems, leaves clean straining bag. Mix the wine yeast and the orange and foreign matter. Cut and discard When fermentation is complete juice in a one-quart jar and let stand any rotten fruit. Wash and drain the (-1.5–0 °Brix (specific gravity 0.994 until mixture is bubbling (approxi- berries. To contain pulp and tiny seeds, to 1.000), rack off the sediment into mately 1 hour). Then add to the cooled place fruit in a fine mesh nylon strain- another clean and sterile glass car- blueberry must. Loosely cover the pri- ing bag. If frozen fruit is used, thaw. boy. Stabilize the wine by adding one mary fermentation vat with plastic or a Lightly mash fresh fruit. Place juice Campden tablet, crushed and dissolved towel and store in a warm place. into 2–2.5-gallon (7.6–9.4 L) primary in a small amount of warm water. Stir the must twice daily using a fermenter. To keep all of the pulp in Once fermentation is complete, add sanitized, long-handled plastic spoon. the straining bag, tie the top of the the fining (clearing) agent according to Let the primary fermentation continue bag. Place the fruit filled bag in the manufacturer’s directions. Let sit 2–3 for seven days. After seven days, strain primary fermenter. Fruit should be sub- weeks and siphon the wine away from the solids from the must using a sani- merged. the sediment. Discard the sediment. tized straining bag or a sieve. Rack into Combine water and sugar in a Let sit 6 weeks and rack again. a sterile one-gallon container and top sauce pot and heat to dissolve the Rack a third time after another 6 weeks off with cold water. Attach a sanitized sugar. Cool. Pour the sugar solution have elapsed. When clear and stable, fermentation lock. into primary fermenter. Hydrometer taste the wine. Adjust the sweetness Rack the wine after ten days. Top reading will be 21–22 °Brix. Take an of the wine to suit your preference. off with cold water. Let wine stand for acid reading using an acid test kit. Ad- If a dry wine is preferred, check the 60 days. Rack and top off with water. just acid levels to 0.65–0.8 (remember, sulfite level and adjust to 35–45 ppm Let stand for 10 more days, rack, add 1 teaspoon of acid blend per gallon free sulfite, filter, and bottle. To make 1 Campden tablet and bottle. Bottle age (3.8 L) will increase the acid level by a sweet wine dissolve ⁄2 teaspoon for three to six months before drinking. approximately 0.15). potassium sorbate in a small amount Stir in acid blend (if needed), pectic of water. Add to the wine and stir thor- enzyme and yeast nutrient and Camp- oughly. RASPBERRY WINE den tablet. Cover primary fermenter Then perform sugar bench trials Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) and let sit 24 hours. In the meantime, to determine the level of sweetness make a yeast starter to expand the that best enhances the fruit. Compare By Alexis Hartung yeast colony. Yeast starter recipe: the aromas, flavors, acid balance, and Bring to boil 1 cup orange juice and 2 aftertaste. Taste and determine the re- INGREDIENTS tablespoons sugar. Let solution cool sidual sugar level that best accents the 5.0 lbs. (2.3 kg) fully ripened or frozen to 70–80 °F (21–27 °C). Stir in 1/2 wine. Do the necessary math by multi- raspberries placed in a fine mesh teaspoon complete yeast nutrient. To plying the amount of sugar needed for straining bag rehydrate yeast, measure 1/4 cup warm the volume of wine to be bottled. Stir 7 pints (3.3 L) water water (100–105 °F/37–40 °C), then thoroughly. Check the sulfite levels, 2.0 lbs. (0.91 kg) corn sugar or table sprinkle yeast on top. Let yeast sit for 5 adjust if necessary and filter the wine sugar (Before adding the sugar, use a to 10 minutes. Stir to dissolve. for a brilliant appearance. Siphon wine sugar scale hydrometer to determine Add the yeast starter to the cooled in clean, sanitized bottles. Enjoy! the level of sugar in the must. Adjust orange juice solution. Sanitize a 750 sugar addition to match the desired mL wine bottle or pint-size jar. Pour potential alcohol level.) orange juice and yeast solution into 1 ⁄2 tsp. acid blend (Before adding acid clean bottle. Cover with a clean cloth blend, use an acid test kit to deter- or fit bottle with an air lock and #2 mine if an acid addition is necessary drilled rubber stopper. Yeast starter — target acidity should be 0.65 to will be ready in 12 to 24 hours. Stir the 0.80). yeast into the must (juice). Cover. Stir 10 drops liquid pectic enzyme (or, the must vigorously twice daily. After

BLACKBERRY WINE taste to make my decisions. My palate STEP BY STEP Makes 5 gallons (19 L) likes a pH of 3.1–3.3, and I always use Mike gets the berries from the grocery citric acid.” store. He said he’s found that frozen By Alex Russan Teresa used cane sugar to boost berries generate much more color the gravity and backsweeten her black- than fresh, locally-sourced fruit. After Teresa Neighbors of Palestine, Illinois berry wine (as she does for most of her thawing, while still in a mesh bag, shared with me her 2019 gold medal- wines), although she has experimented he crushes the berries with a roll- winning recipe for blackberry wine. For with brown sugar additions prior to ing pin. After crushing the berries he her recipe she used: fermentation to increase the gravity of adds them to a coarse strainer bag for a persimmon wine once, which gave it fermenting in a bucket. He ties the INGREDIENTS a nice golden color. bag inside the bucket to avoid spill- 1 gallon (3.8 L) Vintner’s Best Black- Her blackberry wine was bottled ing solids into his fermenter and then berry fruit wine base at 1.020 (5.1 °Brix). Instead of simply adds the berries, water, 4 g KMBS, acid 4 gallons (15 L) water shooting for that number, she recom- blend, tannin, pectic enzyme, 9 cups 4.5 cups (2 lbs./0.9 kg) pure cane sugar mends home winemakers do bench sugar, and the 2 cups concentrate. Red Star Côte des Blancs yeast trials and see for themselves what they Stir vigorously. The must will Double dose of yeast nutrients prefer. “The perfect balance of acid and brown some, owing to the KMBS — this 1 Tbsp. citric acid sugar and alcohol level is determined is normal. Specific gravity should be Potassium metabisulfite (KMBS) by the mouthfeel for me,” she adds. between 1.080 and 1.090 (19.3–21.6 °Brix). If it is lower, stir more and re- STEP BY STEP check before adding additional sugar. Teresa mixes the blackberry concen- BLUEBERRY-RASPBERRY- Cover with a cheese cloth and keep trate along with all of the other in- around 72 °F (22 °C),” he says. gredients into her fermenter. Vintner’s BLACKBERRY BLEND Mike pitches his yeast after 36–48 Best fruit wine bases are fruit concen- Makes 3 gallons (11.5 L) hours (he uses Lalvin 71B-1122), and trates with corn syrup, citric acid, and By Alex Russan once fermentation starts he puts the natural flavors that only require the bucket’s lid on with the airlock in- addition of 4 gallons (15 L) of water This recipe is from with Mike Dault of serted. Two or three times a day he and yeast to make 5 gallons (19 L) of Edgewood, Kentucky, who won the 2019 stirs the must and two days after the wine. However, Teresa goes beyond Best of Show Country Fruit award in the onset of fermentation he adds 1.5 tsp. those basics to make her medal- WineMaker International Amateur Wine of yeast nutrient. winning wines — which begins with Competition with a 40% blueberry, 30% After one week, Mike removes additional sugar to boost the starting raspberry, and 30% blackberry wine the bag of fruit and squeezes it into gravity. (as well as another gold medal for a the bucket before transferring the “I add sugar to it prior to ferment- 90% blueberry, 5% raspberry, and 5% fermenting wine to a 3-gallon (11.5-L) ing. I like a heavier blackberry! It blackberry blend). As opposed to making carboy with an airlock. At week three, comes in with an SG (specific gravity, varietal wines of each berry and then he moves it back to a bucket and adds 1 after diluting) of 1.077 (18.7 °Brix) and blending them afterwards, Mike blends ⁄8 tsp. KMBS and 1.5 tsp. potassium I add enough sugar to get to 1.090 the berries at the desired ratios himself sorbate. (21.6 °Brix) to ferment,” she said. before adding to the mesh bag, prior to After those additions he stirs vigor- That sugar addition takes the wine fermentation. ously for 5 minutes, then adds 3 cups from what would be approximately sugar (Mike notes that backsweetening 10.1% ABV up to 11.8% ABV. When the INGREDIENTS should be done to taste, and notes you gravity reaches 1.000 (0 °Brix), Teresa 15 lbs. (6.9 kg) of frozen berries can add more later if you’d like ad- generally halts fermentation with SO2 2 gallons (7.6 L) spring water ditional sweetness in the final wine). to retain a little sweetness, but she potassium metabisulfite (KMBS) Again, stir vigorously for 5 more min- will backsweeten with additional sugar 1.5 tsp. acid blend utes. Then add Super-Kleer (a clarifier 1 after fermentation when she feels the ⁄2 tsp. wine tannin — be sure to add the various packets wine could use more sweetness. 2 tsp. pectic enzyme in order). Teresa says, “every berry and fruit is 12 cups (4 lbs./1.8 kg) cane sugar Rack back to your carboy to let it a little different, so even when I’m fol- 2 cups (0.5 qts./0.5 L) red wine concen- settle for two weeks, then rack off of lowing a recipe, the balance of sugar trate the Super-Kleer, and allow to age in and acid can be slightly different. I Potassium sorbate a topped up carboy for 3–4 months. make samples of several different Super-Kleer Prior to bottling, Mike makes a final sugar and pH levels, let them sit over- addition of KMBS night for the flavors to marry, and then After bottling, allow to settle at

8 WineMaker Magazine Country Wines © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved BERRY FRUIT RECIPES least a few weeks before opening with a similar color and taste to blue- the first bottle. However, there may berries). In dessert wines, he feels that BASIC ELDERBERRY WINE be a benefit to cellaring bottles even the key is to achieve a good balance of Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) longer. “One thing I learned is that an- sweetness, acidity, and alcohol. To pro- other year (in bottle) was a benefit to duce his Honeyberry Port, he used the By Jack Keller the berry blend,” Mike said. In fact, he following 5-gallon (19-L) recipe to make received a gold medal for this wine in the initial wine, which he turned it into This is a tried and true basic recipe for 2018, but a bottle from the same batch a Port-style afterward. Making wine from making a gallon (3.8 L) of elderberry a year later in 2019 earned him the berries grown in your locale is a great wine. It will have good body and color Best of Show. way to use excess wild or homegrown and will not be too tannic unless you “It was my last bottle and I just berries. Most edible berries will make a exceed the amount of berries specified 1 1 hoped for the best. That was the lon- good tasting wine, including honeyber- or use very small berries – ⁄8 to ⁄6 inch gest I had kept a fruit wine,” he said. ries. (0.3–0.4 cm) in diameter. Much of the character that any wine (or fermented beverage) has INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS early in its life is from fermentation- 30 lbs. (13.6 kg) honeyberries 3.5 lbs. (1.6 kg) elderberries generated aromas called esters — 7.5 quarts (7.1 L) water (again, using 3.0 quarts (~3 L) boiling water mostly bright, fruity, and floral aromas the minimum amount necessary) 2.0 lbs. (0.91 kg) granulated sugar (think young rosé wine or wine made 23 cups (10 lbs./4.5 kg) white cane 12-oz. (355-mL) can red grape concen- via carbonic maceration). Esters form sugar trate (Welch’s, Old Orchard) primarily as yeast metabolites and 7.5 tsp. acid blend juice of 1 medium lemon acids intermingle. Esters are delightful 2.5 tsp. pectic enzyme juice of 2 small oranges aromas, but in young wines they can 2.5 tsp. yeast energizer 1 tsp. yeast nutrient overshadow what aromas come from 5 Campden tablets 2 Campden tablets 1 the fruit itself. Esters dissipate almost Vintner’s Harvest R-56 yeast (added on ⁄2 tsp. potassium sorbate entirely over the first year or so of a day 2) oak beans (optional) wine’s life. That year in bottle probably 1 sachet Red Star Pasteur Red, Lalvin allowed the esters to dissipate, and STEP BY STEP R2 or Gervin No. 1 Green Label wine allowed the aromas from the berries After thawing out his fruit, Alan yeast Mike was using to show their actual presses the berries just like grapes, as character, rather than sharing the stage “this eliminates the need for a bulky STEP BY STEP with fresh ester aromas. bag of fruit.” The juice is mixed with Wearing rubber gloves, pour berries the other ingredients prior to fer- into a nylon straining bag in a primary mentation. Alan likes to add sugar to fermentation vessel and tie the bag PORT-STYLE BERRY WINES increase the gravity to 1.092–1.101 closed. If fresh or thawed berries, use Makes 5 gallons (19 L) (22–24 °Brix). the flat bottom of a wine bottle or a Using the ingredients above, the sanitized piece of hardwood to crush By Alex Russan wine — ultimately destined to become them; do not press hard enough to Port — finished at 12.2% alcohol, crush the seeds. Add grape concen- Alan Putnam of Montana prefers to use which he fortified to 20% with brandy trate, juice of the lemon and oranges, frozen over fresh fruit as well. “I feel I get and sweetened to 8% residual sugar. the yeast nutrient and sugar. Pour boil- more taste and aroma components re- Alan feels his berry wines are ready to ing water over everything and stir to leased from previously frozen fruit. They drink after two months in bottle, his dissolve the sugar. Cover the primary. also release their water content upon Port-style wines he likes to bottle age Make a yeast starter solution and hy- pressing.” He always cuts back on the for at least a year prior to drinking. drate the yeast while the water in the water additions that are given in recipe When making a Port-style wine in this primary cools to below 90 °F (32 °C). books whenever possible, feeling it di- fashion, one can of course bottle some Add activated yeast starter and re- lutes fruit character and intensity. as a fruit wine prior to fortification and cover the primary. Stir daily for three also make a Port-style with the re- days, deflating straining bag if neces- Alan makes both berry wines and berry maining portion of wine — two unique sary. Lift bag, squeeze lightly (remem- Port-style wines, and has won nine med- wines from the same fermentation! ber those rubber gloves) and discard als for table berry wines and three for pulp or save for a second run wine. Port-style berry wines. Alan won a gold Re-cover the primary and set aside one medal in 2018 for his Honeyberry Port more day, then transfer liquid to a sec- wine (for those who aren’t familiar with ondary. Liquid will be shy a full gallon. honeyberries, they are an oblong berry Affix an airlock and wait for vigorous

9 WineMaker Magazine Country Wines © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved BERRY FRUIT RECIPES fermentation to subside. If you intend add to boiling water. Cover pot and fermentation vessel. Pour the boil- to add oak beans, this would be a good boil for 25 minutes. Skim any scum off ing sugar-water over elderberries and time to do it. water and strain to remove fruit. cover the primary. When cool, stir Add a finely crushed and dissolved Add banana liquid to primary and in one finely crushed and dissolved Campden tablet, top up if needed and re-cover primary. When cooled to room Campden tablet, yeast nutrient and wait three weeks. Rack, transfer the temperature, stir in citric acid and acid blend until dissolved. Re-cover oak beans if used, top up, and reat- yeast nutrients and activated yeast, re- the primary and set aside for 12 hours. tach the airlock. Wait for the wine to cover primary, and set aside. Add activated wine yeast in a fall clear and then wait an additional Stir twice daily for two days – three starter solution and ferment until the month — or until oaking is finished. if additional color requires it. Remove specific gravity drops to 1.010, stirring Rack, stabilize wine with potassium straining bag, squeeze lightly, transfer and squeezing the bag daily. (Remem- sorbate and finely crushed and dis- to secondary, add one finely crushed ber the rubber gloves, to protect your solved Campden tablet, sweeten to and dissolved Campden tablet, top up hands from the pigments.) Transfer taste if desired and reattach airlock. if required, and fit airlock. Rack every liquid to a secondary, attach an airlock Wait 30 days and if no new fermenta- 60 days until wine falls clear and no and ferment to dryness. Rack every tion or new sediment is evident go sediments form during 30-day pe- 30 days until wine clears and doesn’t ahead and bottle. Wait a minimum of riod. Stabilize with potassium sorbate drop even a dusting of lees over a 30- six months before drinking. Wine will and one finely crushed and dissolved day period. Bottle and wait at least 3 continue to improve for several years. Campden tablet and bottle this wine months to enjoy. This wine will im- dry. Allow to age one year. prove with age. MAKING A SECOND RUN ELDERBERRY ROSÉ DRIED ELDERBERRY WINE Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) By Jack Keller By Jack Keller

If you kept the pulp from the previous There are two times when dried elderber- Basic Elderberry Wine recipe, you can ries are welcome – when wild elderber- make a gallon (3.8 L) of second run wine ries do not grow locally and when wild in a dry rosé style. After this wine ma- elderberries are out of season. In both tures, drink it within two years. cases, dried elderberries can be used for winemaking. You can buy dried elderber- INGREDIENTS ries from most winemaking shops or pick plenty of wild ones and dry them in a Elderberry pulp from previous recipe dehydrator. This recipe makes one gallon 1.0 lb. (0.45 kg) fully ripe bananas (3.8 L) of wine. 12-oz. (355-mL) can white grape concentrate (Welch’s, Old Orchard, etc.) INGREDIENTS 2.0 lbs. (0.91 kg) granulated sugar 4–5.25 ounces (110–150 g) dried el- 2 Campden tablets derberries 1 ⁄2 tsp. potassium sorbate 2.5 pounds (1.1 kg) sugar 1 tsp. yeast nutrient 7 pts. (3.3 L) water 2 tsp. citric acid 12-oz. (355-mL) can of red grape con- Lalvin RC212 or any Burgundy wine centrate (Welch’s, Old Orchard, etc.) yeast 2 tsp. acid blend 1 tsp. yeast nutrient STEP BY STEP 1 crushed Campden tablet Bring 2 quarts (2 L) of water to boil. Montrachet yeast (or other general Meanwhile, place elderberry pulp (in purpose yeast) nylon straining bag) in the primary fermentation vessel and add sugar and STEP BY STEP grape concentrate in primary. Pour Bring water to a boil and add sugar. boiling water over contents of primary Stir until the sugar is dissolved and and stir until sugar is dissolved. Cover water clear. Wash the dried elderber- primary. Put another quart plus one ries and put in a nylon straining bag pint of water on to boil. Cut bananas, with several marbles for weight. Tie 1 skins and all, into ⁄2 inch slices and the bag closed and put in the primary

he what of this process is simple are looking for more of a wine-cocktail ual sugar (4 g/L). Think many Old World . . . add sugar to sweeten up your type experience. reds or Sauvignon Blanc. Semi-sweet wine. It can be any type of wine or wine generally runs in the 0.4–2% sug- T fermented beverage — white, red, WHEN TO BACKSWEETEN ar (4–20 g/L) range, which is common fortified, dessert, mead, cider, country This process most often occurs just prior for say a semi-sweet or off-dry Viognier fruit, apéritif, or digestif. It is a process bottling although a bit of time of bulk or Riesling. Above 2% (20 g/L) and you that many country fruit winemakers aging and retesting prior to bottling is are entering the sweet wine range, with learn in order to give the flavors a a good thing. Also, it takes a little time examples like Moscato or Port wines. boost in the glass and on their tongue. for the proper yeast arresting chemicals Clinitest® is a quick and easy way to go Winemakers have a plethora of sugars (sorbate and sulfite) to fully affect the about measuring the residual sugar in to choose from — table sugar (sucrose), yeast. One of the biggest concerns is your wine but hydrometers can work as honey, grape juice or juice concentrate, refermentation in the bottle and a little well. A typical dry wine may finish at a raw cane sugar, maple syrup, agave, time to allow the sugars to “set” in the gravity of 0.995 and for each 1% sugar apple juice concentrate (for cider), etc. wine and make sure the wine remains increase, the hydrometer reading will Seems simple right? But the trick is stable at room (or cellar) temperature rise about 0.004. If you want to back- doing it well. Balance is a fundamental can be reassuring. sweeten from 2 g/L to 5 g/L (0.2% to part of crafting a drinkable wine and 0.5%), simply add 3 g of sugar for every the level of sweetness is one of the key HOW TO BACKSWEETEN liter of wine in your fermenter. This will components. There are two fundamental rules to allow you to guesstimate the correct backsweetening. First, if the wine has level of sweetness, but beware, over- WHY BACKSWEETEN? been inoculated with or been through sweetening happens quickly. First and foremost, backsweetening is malolactic fermentation, then potassium Bench trials allow you to dial in ex- an optional task that can easily ruin sorbate should not be used to stabi- actly how much is the right amount by your efforts in producing wine when not lize the wine. In fact, backsweetening taste and not simply estimating based handled properly. Carbonation in bottle should probably be avoided. If lactic on pre-conceived sugar levels to make a with popping corks, overly sweet wine, acid bacteria (LAB) are present and Riesling semi-sweet. To perform bench and rotting geranium aromas; these are metabolize sorbic acid (from potassium trials though, you’ll need a few tools: A some of the problems typically associ- sorbate), the result may be hexadienol, good scale, a 1-mL graduated pipette, a ated with backsweetening-gone-wrong an odiferous compound, likened to rot- 50-mL graduated cylinder, and a wine efforts. So why go through the effort ting geraniums. Second, wines that get thief. Pull your wine out of the fer- when there are other options to craft a backsweetened need to be stabilized menter in the thief and measure three sweeter wine (e.g. arresting fermenta- using the combination of potassium aliquots of 50 mL of wine. Make a sugar tion with spirits)? That’s easy . . . the sorbate and metabisulfite. The sorbate solution by mixing 25 g of sugar into 25 ability to fine-tune every batch you plan acts to prevent any further yeast repro- mL of water, then top up with water to to sweeten as well as consistent results duction. If sorbate is not added with the 50 mL of sugar solution. You will need when done properly. metabisulfite, you run the risk of simply to heat this up to get it to dissolve. This Acidity is one of the other key com- stunning the yeast and they may regain is now a 0.5 g/mL (500 g/L) sugar solu- ponents in wine and sometimes the bal- enough of a footing in the wine to refer- tion. So each mL you add will add 1% ance of sweetness and total acidity in a ment again after bottling. Add sorbate sugar (10 g/L) to your 50-mL samples. dry wine can be skewed heavily towards at the rate of a ½ tsp. per gallon (3.8 You can start with some extremes if the acidity. A winemaker may consider L) along with a normal bottling sulfite you are trying to decide if you want to backsweetening the wine a little to regime based on our sulfite calculator: go full sweet wine vs. semi-sweet route, balance this out as sugar will reduce https://winemakermag.com/sulfitecalcu- or you can dial it in a smaller range the perception of acidity. Another reason lator. Generally it’s good practice to add if you’re trying to hone in how much could be that you are just trying to the sulfite, then wait 12 hours before sugar to make that semi-sweet Riesling. produce a light, refreshing porch-sipper adding the sorbate. Then wait another But be sure to pour a separate control . . . or you’re making a wine for someone 48 hours before adding the sugar. sample as well to test against the dry with a sweet tooth. After all, there is a There are two ways to approach version. My final piece of advice is that reason that sweet wines sell so well at backsweetening wine, the guesstimate no matter which approach you take, many wineries . . . there are a lot of folks approach and the precision approach. even after identifying the “best” amount with a sweet tooth in the world. Finally, If you want to take the guesstimate from trials, add in increments and taste backsweetening can enhance “fruitiness” approach, then you need to know some as you go along. If you’re having trouble character, especially in country fruit basics. Dry wine means that the wine deciding . . . crowd-source! Get some wines. Adding a fruit concentrate can re- has fermented to completion and, as a friends over and see what they think. ally help build this characteristic if you rough guideline, is less than 0.4% resid-

PEACH WINE Put water on to boil. Meanwhile, wash, tured. But in truth, any ripe nectarine will Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) rinse and halve fruit, remove and make good wine. discard stones, and tie fruit in nylon By Jack Keller straining bag. Put bag in primary and INGREDIENTS mash and squeeze with hands until no 4.0 lbs. (1.8 kg) nectarines If you want to start an argument, ask solids remain except skins. When water 1.5 lbs. (0.68 kg) finely granulated a group of farmers which is the best boils, dissolve sugar in it. Pour over sugar tasting peach (Prunus persica). While it peaches. Add can of frozen white grape 12 oz. (0.34 kg) can frozen white grape is true that they are all good when ripe, juice or banana water (see page 26). concentrate (or banana water) some are pure ambrosia. For absolute When must cools, add acid blend, yeast 1.5 tsp. acid blend reliability, the ageless, freestone Elberta nutrient, tannin, and finely crushed 0.5 tsp. pectic enzyme delivers the classic, rich peach flavor Campden tablet. Make up a starter so- 0.125 tsp. grape tannin everyone knows. (Freestone drupes lution for yeast. Cover primary and set Water to one gallon/3.8 L (about 3 are those in which the pits are easily aside 12 hours. Stir in pectic enzyme qts./3 L) separated from the flesh when the fruit and set aside another 12 hours. Add 1 tsp yeast nutrient is ripe. The opposing term is “clingstone.”) yeast in starter solution and recover. 1 crushed Campden tablet A garden favorite is the medium-sized, Stir daily until vigorous fermenta- Lalvin ICV-D47 or K1V-1116 wine yeast freestone Redhaven, a fine-grained, sweet tion begins to subside, then drip drain and juicy peach of superior quality. The pulp without squeezing. Siphon wine STEP BY STEP very large J.H. Hale is an old variety that off sediments into secondary and fit Put water on to boil. Meanwhile, wash, is still around because it has superb airlock. Rack every 30 days until wine destem, and destone the nectarines. flavor. Another old variety — unattractive clears. Set aside two months and rack Without peeling, cut fruit into small compared to modern market hybrids again into bottles. Taste any time after pieces over a bowl, saving the juice. — is Indian Blood, whose creamy white three months. Pour into nylon straining bag, tie bag interior has purple and red swirls that closed, and place in primary. Mash the tastes of raspberries when still firm but fruit with your hands, pour sugar and more like floral Muscat when softened by NECTARINE WINE white grape concentrate or banana ripeness. But my personal favorite is the Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) water (see page 26) over bag, and white-fleshed and exceptionally flavored pour boiling water over all. Stir well Georgia Belle, wrapped in a creamy white By Jack Keller with wooden spoon to dissolve sugar. skin with red blush. Cover the primary. When cool, add acid Whichever peach you select, wash Once thought to be a natural cross blend, tannin, yeast nutrient, and finely gently in a mild bleach solution (1 part between peach and plum, most bota- crushed Campden tablet. Cover primary bleach to 40 parts water) to remove dust, nists now accept the nectarine (Prunus and set aside 12 hours. Add pectic wild yeast and bacteria and anything persica) as a natural variant of the peach enzyme, stir, recover primary and set that may have been sprayed on the fruit. that went its own way. Think of it as a aside additional 12 hours. Add yeast as Rinse thoroughly twice to remove all thin-skinned peach without fuzz. It is dif- starter solution, stir and cover again. traces of the bleach and pat dry. Halve ficult to name one variety that outshines Gently squeeze bag twice daily to and destone the fruit, cutting out any the rest, but here are four with superior extract juice and stir. After five days of brown spots. flavors for winemaking. The bright red, vigorous fermentation, drip drain bag freestone Independence has firm yellow without squeezing, return drippings INGREDIENTS flesh that is richly flavored, tangy and to primary and discard pulp. Recover 3.0 lbs. (1.4 kg) ripe peaches w/skins sweet and considered one of the very primary and let stand another week. (or 3.5 lbs./1.58 kg w/o skins) best nectarines. The large, red-skinned, Rack into secondary and fit airlock. 12 oz. (0.34 kg) can frozen white grape freestone Merricrest also has yellow After 30 days, rack again, top up, and concentrate (or banana water) flesh and a rich, tangy flavor. The deep refit airlock. Rack every 30 days until 1.75 lbs. (0.79 kg) granulated sugar red, freestone Redgold has firm, golden wine clears. Stabilize wine, add 1⁄4 cup 1.5 tsp. acid blend flesh with a rich, satisfying flavor. The simple syrup, wait 30 days, and rack 0.5 tsp. pectic enzyme red-blushed White Freestone has white into bottles. Age 6–12 months. Serve 0.25 tsp. tannin water to one gallon/ flesh of excellent, sweet, juicy flavor and chilled. 3.8 L (about 3 qts./3 L) creamy texture and a joy to make wine 1 crushed Campden tablet with. But perhaps the best nectarine ever 1 tsp. yeast nutrient (in my humble opinion) is the freestone Lalvin ICV-D47 or K1V-1116 wine yeast Snowqueen, a very large, light skin with a hint of russet blush, white flesh, juicy STEP BY STEP beyond your dreams and very finely tex-

APRICOT WINE DRIED APRICOT WINE skin on yellow background, firm-fleshed, Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) clingstone — perhaps the very best tasting Japanese plum. Queen Ann is large, purple, By Jack Keller By Jack Keller semi-freestone with amber flesh streaked red; it has superb flavor, is a fine dessert The apricot (Prunus armeniaca) is This recipe can be made any time of the plum and makes excellent wine. Satsuma undoubtedly of Asian origin, but exactly year. Stay away from dried apricots is medium to large, almost round, dark where is in dispute because it has been containing sorbate, benzoate, sorbic acid, red fruit, small pit, firm, juicy, red flesh; domesticated for well over 5,000 years. or benzoic acid. it is sweet with excellent flavor for wine. The apricot is more fibrous and less juicy For an unusual wine, Howard Miracle is than most stone fruit, but that does not INGREDIENTS large, yellow fruit with red blush, yellow retard its flavor or sweetness. One of the 2.0 lb. (0.91 kg) chopped dried apricots flesh, and an unusual tart pineapple flavor juicier varieties is the Harcot, known for 1 can Welch’s or Old Orchard 100% that is quite enjoyable. Finally, any of being sweet, juicy and richly flavored. White Grape Juice (frozen concen- the European plums called gage, such as The Moongold has large, plum-sized fruit trate) Greengage; these are generally small to that are very sweet and sprightly. Perfec- 1 1/4 lb. (0.57 kg) demerara or turbinado medium in size, richly flavored, sweet and tion is another large, outstanding apricot, sugar (if unavailable, may substitute juicy. with bright, yellow-orange skin and flesh Sugar-in-the-Raw) and a delicious, esteemed flavor. But per- 1 1/4 tsp. acid blend INGREDIENTS haps the favorite of apricot fanciers and 6 pints (2.8 L) water 6.0 lbs. (2.7 kg) plums winemakers is the Moorpark, known for 1 tsp. pectic enzyme 1.25 lbs. (0.57 kg) fine granulated sugar its exceptionally rich flavor and aroma. 1/4 tsp. grape tannin 12 oz. (0.34 kg) can frozen white or red 1 crushed Campden tablet grape concentrate (depends on juice INGREDIENTS 3/4 tsp. yeast nutrient color) 4.5 lbs. (2.0 kg) chopped apricots 1 pkg Red Star Côte des Blancs wine Water to one gallon/3.8 L (about 2.75 to 12 oz. (0.34 kg) can frozen white grape yeast 3 qts./2.5–3 L) concentrate (or banana water) 1.5 tsp. acid blend 1.25 lbs. (0.57 kg) light brown or De- STEP BY STEP 1 tsp. pectic enzyme merara sugar Combine all ingredients except yeast in 1 crushed Campden tablet 1.25 tsp. acid blend fermenter. Stir to dissolve sugar, cover 0.75 tsp. yeast nutrient Water to one gallon/3.8 L (about 3.25 and set in warm place for 24 hours. Add 0.25 tsp. yeast energizer qts./3 L) yeast, cover, and stir daily for 10 days. 0.125 tsp. grape tannin 1 tsp pectic enzyme Strain into secondary fermenter, press- Lalvin RC212 wine yeast 0.25 tsp. grape tannin ing pulp lightly. Top up to one gallon 1 finely crushed Campden tablet (3.8 L) with water and fit airlock. Rack STEP BY STEP 1 tsp. yeast nutrient after 30 days and again after an ad- Put water on to boil. Wash the fruit, Lalvin K1V-1116 wine yeast ditional 60 days. When clear, rack again halve and remove stones, then chop and bottle. Allow to age one year. fruit and tie in nylon straining bag in STEP BY STEP primary. Pour boiling water over fruit. Wash and chop fruit and tie in nylon Add sugar and stir well to dissolve. straining bag. Combine all ingredients PLUM WINE Cover and allow to cool to 70 °F (21 °C). in primary except pectic enzyme and Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) Add acid blend, pectic enzyme, tan- yeast, stir to dissolve sugar, cover, and nin, nutrient, and energizer, cover, and set in warm place for 12 hours. Add By Jack Keller wait 12 hours before adding yeast in a pectic enzyme, stir, cover, and set aside starter solution. Recover primary and additional 12 hours. Add activated yeast There are literally hundreds of plum allow to ferment 5-7 days, collapsing in starter solution, cover, collapse bag varieties, deriving from several species of bag and stirring twice daily. Drip drain and stir daily until vigorous fermenta- Old World and New World plums, and it is bag without squeezing, transfer wine to tion subsides. Drip drain nylon bag into extremely difficult to mention but a few. I secondary, and fit airlock. Rack after 30 primary, pressing pulp lightly. Discard believe the Japanese-American hybrids of- days, adding finely crushed Campden pulp, transfer wine to secondary and fit airlock. Rack, top up and refit airlock fer the best qualities in general for wine- tablet and topping up; refit airlock and after 30 days and again after another 60 making and two are superior. Formosa is repeat every 30 days (without adding days. When brilliantly clear, rack again large, oval, greenish-yellow with reddish Campden) until wine is brilliantly clear. and bottle. Allow to age one year. blush; the flesh is sweet, juicy, firm but Stabilize wine, sweeten if desired, wait melting, pale yellow flesh and excellent additional 30 days, and rack into bottles. flavor. Fortune is a very large, bright red This wine can be sampled after only 6

13 WineMaker Magazine Country Wines © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved STONE FRUIT RECIPES months. If not up to expectations, let primary without breaking any stones. pulp. Fit airlock to secondary. Ferment age another 6 months and taste again. Pour sugar over cherries. Pour the boil- to dryness (specific gravity 1.000 or I have aged plum wine up to four years ing water over the sugar and cherries lower — in about 3 weeks). Rack into and the result was exquisite, but that and stir well to dissolve. Cover and set clean secondary, top up to 1 gallon and was only because the wine got hidden aside until cool. Add remaining ingre- reattach airlock. away and forgotten. I suspect it was dients and ferment 5 days. Strain juice Rack again in 2 months. Rack ready much earlier. into dark secondary (or one covered again and bottle when clear. This is a with a paper bag to prevent exposure good dry wine. If you want it sweeter, to light), top up, attach an airlock, and stabilize after last racking (but before CHERRY WINE discard pulp and stones. Rack every bottling), then add 1/4 lb. dissolved Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) 30 days until wine falls brilliantly sugar per gallon. Wait three weeks and clear, racking again and adding finely bottle. This wine can be consumed By Jack Keller crushed Campden tablet. Age two ad- young (after 3 months in bottle), but ditional months and bottle. Store in a will improve immensely with age. Like plums, there are hundreds of cherry dark place. varieties from many species. Most com- mercially cultivated sweet cherries are from the species Prunus avium and many FIG WINE winemakers go straight for the sweet Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) Bing, Craig’s Crimson, Lambert, Rainier, Black Tartarian or Queen Anne varieties. By Jack Keller While they do make good wines, it is the tart cherry (Prunus cerasus) that shines This recipe is a “pure” fig wine (no raisins, in winemaking. There is nothing wrong dates, bananas, or grape juice). Thus, it with mixing in 25–33% sweet cherries, will not really mature until a year in the and if I had to add one sweet, it would be bottle, but can certainly be enjoyed after the Craig’s Crimson because of its spicy 3 months. Use only the sweetest, most flavor. The sour cherries of choice are the tasty, almost over-ripe figs. English Morello, deep red to nearly black and only half tart so a nice compromise; INGREDIENTS 1 the Bali, another dark red with sweet-tart 4 ⁄2 lb. (2.0 kg) figs 1 balance and a flavor unique unto itself; 6 ⁄2 pints (3.1 L) water 3 the North Star, deep mahogany in color, 1 ⁄4 lbs. (0.79 kg) granulated sugar dark red flesh, surprisingly juicy, and fully 3 tsp. acid blend sour; and the legendary Montmorency 1 crushed Campden tablet Sour, a large cherry with light red skin, 1 tsp. yeast nutrient yellow flesh, and exceptional for wine. 1 pkg Red Star Montrachet wine yeast

INGREDIENTS Cut off stems and chop figs. Place in 8.0 lbs. (3.6 kg) cherries large, fine mesh nylon straining bag, 2.5 lbs. (1.1 kg) sugar tie top, and put in primary fermenta- 12 oz. (0.34 kg) can frozen white or red tion vessel. Stir in all other ingredients grape concentrate (depends on juice except yeast. Check specific gravity color) (should be 1.085 to 1.095; if not, add 1 0.25 tsp. tannin up to ⁄4 cup more sugar, stirring very 1 tsp. pectic enzyme well before re-checking gravity). Cover Water to one gallon/3.8 L (about 3.25 with sanitized cloth. Add activated qts./3 L) yeast after 12 hours and stir twice 1 crushed Campden tablet daily, pressing pulp lightly to aid ex- 1 tsp. yeast nutrient traction of juices. When specific gravity 0.25 tsp. yeast energizer reaches 1.040 (3 to 5 days), hang bag Lalvin EC1118 wine yeast over bowl to drain, lightly pressing to aid extraction (do NOT force or you will STEP BY STEP cloud the liquid). While pulp drains, Bring water to boil. Meanwhile, destem, siphon liquid off sediments into sec- wash and crush the cherries in the ondary. Add drained liquid and discard

KIWIFRUIT (CHINESE wine again after three months, refit the Sweeten slightly if desired, but the airlock, and set it aside for two months recipe makes an excellent dry wine. Af- GOOSEBERRY) or until the wine clears and the lees ter final 30 days, rack into bottles and Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) compact. The wine should be clear and allow 3 months rest before drinking. completely dry. If it is too dry for your By Jack Keller taste, stabilize, sweeten to your liking, refit the airlock and set aside. After PEACH AND BANANA WINE Kiwifruit are ovoid, up to 3 inches long, 30 days, rack it into bottles and age Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) russet colored and covered with short for another six months. Serve lightly brown hairs. The flesh is firm until ripe chilled. By Jack Keller and either bright green, yellowish-gold to brownish or even off-white. Flavor varies Peaches have very little body and ba- from sweet/tart to a sweet cross between BANANA WINE nanas compensate for that. Select only banana and melon. Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) the best tasting peaches. My favorites are Georgia Belle and Red Contender, INGREDIENTS) By Jack Keller in that order. 3–4 lbs. (1.3–1.8 kg) kiwifruit, thinly peeled and chopped For variety, try using Ae Ae (Hawaiian), INGREDIENTS 1.75 lbs. (0.80 kg) granulated sugar Golden Aromatic (Chinese), Jamaican 4.0 lb. (1.8 kg) ripe peaches 12 fl. oz. (355 mL) banana water Red or Red Dwarf (Cuban), Mysore (In- 1.0 lb. (0.45 kg) bananas 3 7 pts. (3.3 L) water dian), Pysang Raja (Malaysian) or Raja 1 ⁄4 lbs. (0.79 kg) granulated sugar 1 0.75–1.0 tsp. acid blend Puri (Indian). Makes one gallon (3.8 L). ⁄2 tsp. citric acid 3 0.5 tsp. pectic enzyme ⁄4 tsp. pectic enzyme 1 0.25 tsp. grape tannin (powder) INGREDIENTS ⁄2 pints (2.6 L) water 1 1 tsp. yeast nutrient 4 ⁄2 lbs. (2.0 kg) peeled bananas 1 crushed Campden tablet 1 1 pkg. Côte des Blancs wine yeast as a ⁄2 lb. (0.23 kg) banana skins 1 tsp. yeast nutrient 1 starter solution 1 ⁄2 cups white grape concentrate 1 pkg Lalvin ICV-D47, (Côtes-du-Rhône) 3 1 ⁄4 lbs. (0.79 kg) finely granulated or Champagne yeast STEP BY STEP sugar Add the granulated sugar to the water 2 tsp. citric acid STEP BY STEP and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring 2 pinches grape tannin Peel bananas, slice, and place in 1 occasionally until dissolved. Place the 6 ⁄2 pints (3.1 L) water saucepan with one pint boiling water. peeled, chopped fruit in nylon straining 1 tsp. yeast nutrient Simmer 35 minutes, then skim any bag, tie closed and put in the primary 1 pkg Red Star Côte des Blancs or scum off the surface and strain without fermenter. Crush the bagged fruit with Epernay wine yeast squeezing. your hands. Add acid blend, tannin, and Meanwhile, destone and slice yeast nutrients to the primary and pour STEP BY STEP peaches into primary. Mix half the sug- the sugar-water over the fruit. Add Mash the bananas and finely chop the ar in with peaches and cover with four the banana water, cover the primary skins, placing both in primary fermen- pints boiling water. Stir to dissolve sug- and set aside to cool. When it cools to ter. Meanwhile, bring the water to a ar. When cool, add banana water, citric 110 °F (43 °C) or below, add the pectic boil and in it dissolve sugar completely. acid, crushed and dissolved Campden enzyme and stir. Cover and set aside Pour water over fruit and skins and tablet, and enough water to bring total 10 to 12 hours. Add the yeast as starter cover primary fermenter. When cool, to one gallon. Cover and wait 10–12 solution and re-cover the primary. add all remaining ingredients except hours. Add pectic enzyme, re-cover and Lift and dunk bag several times yeast and stir well to dissolve. Add wait another 10–12 hours. Stir in yeast daily (do NOT squeeze) and stir. When activated yeast and re-cover primary. nutrient and activated yeast starter. vigorous (primary) fermentation slows, Ferment vigorously for two days Re-cover the primary and ferment 3–4 or on seventh day, (whichever comes and strain through muslin into sec- days, stirring at least twice daily. first) remove the bag and drip-drain ondary fermenter. Attach airlock and Pour through nylon straining bag, without squeezing, returning the drip- ferment to dryness. After 30 days, rack, squeezing well to extract as much juice pings to the primary. Allow the sedi- top up, and refit airlock. Allow 90 days as possible. Stir in half the remain- ment to settle and rack into a second- for wine to clear. If it does not clear ing sugar until dissolved, transfer 1 ary fermenter. Add ⁄16 tsp. of potassium on its own, add amylase according to to secondary and fit airlock without metabisulfite (or one finely crushed its instructions. When clear, rack again, topping up. In 5 days add remainder and dissolved Campden tablet), stir, top up and refit airlock. Age 2 months, of sugar, stir well to dissolve, and refit top up and attach an airlock. Rack the stabilize, and refit airlock. airlock. When active fermentation dies

15 WineMaker Magazine Country Wines © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved TROPICAL FRUIT RECIPES down, top up and refit airlock. Rack STEP BY STEP every three weeks until fermentation Wash the fruit thoroughly before is complete and wine clears. Stabilize processing. Place the processed fruit in and sweeten to taste if desired. Wait a nylon straining bag, tie closed, and additional three weeks and rack into mash the bagged fruit in the primary. bottles. Allow to age 3-6 months be- Add pectic enzyme, banana water and fore tasting, and then chill and enjoy. water. Cover and set aside for 8 to 10 hours, stirring occasionally. Measure the specific gravity (S.G.) and add/ad- GUAVA AND FEIJOA just sugar to bring S.G. to 1.100, stirring Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) well to dissolve the sugar. Add the remaining ingredients (except yeast). By Jack Keller Cover and set aside for 8 to 10 hours. Add the yeast as a starter solution and Guavas are apple- or pear-shaped, 2–4 cover the primary fermenter. inches long, with light yellow or green Ferment on the pulp, squeez- skin and a white, yellow, pink or red flesh. ing the bag daily, until fermentation The ripe flesh is creamy in texture and slows. Squeeze the bag thoroughly and the skin soft and edible. They contain discard pulp. Allow the wine to settle small, edible seeds. They taste like a overnight and rack it off the sediments cross between a pear and strawberry. into a secondary fermenter. Top up with Feijoas are smaller and more elon- water to 1 gallon (3.8 L) and attach an gated with a dark green to bluish-green airlock. Rack and top up again after 30 inedible skin. The pineapple guava is days and set it aside for two months actually a feijoa and tastes like a cross or until the wine clears and the lees between a pineapple and guava, often compact. If the wine is not clear after with a slight minty flavor. There are many two months, rack it again, add 0.25 feijoa cultivars offering different flavors. tsp. pectic enzyme and top up. When The flesh is granular near the skin but it is clear, rack it a final time, add an the seed-pulp is clear and jelly-like additional Campden tablet and 0.5 tsp. when ripe and very sweet. If any interior potassium sorbate, sweeten if desired, browning is present, the fruit is over-ripe and set aside 30 days. Bottle and taste and should not be used for wine. after three months. The wine will con- Guavas should be fermented with the tinue to improve with age but should skin intact but not the feijoa. The seeds be consumed within two years. of both are edible and can be fermented.

INGREDIENTS 2.5–3 lbs. (1.1–1.3 kg) peeled feijoa or 3 lbs. (1.3 kg) guava, chopped and mashed 1.75 lbs. (0.80 kg) granulated sugar 0.5 tsp. tartaric acid 0.25 tsp. malic acid 0.25 tsp. grape tannin 12 fl. oz. (355 mL) banana water Water to top up to 1 gallon (about 80 fluid oz./2.4 L) 1 tsp. pectic enzyme (powder) 1 finely crushed and dissolved Campden tablet 1 tsp. yeast nutrient 1 pkg. Champagne wine yeast as a starter solution

Dominic Rivard is a consultant fruit good tropical notes and relatively choose “Champagne” yeast for every- winemaker producing commercial wines clear flavors and can ferment under thing. in Asia, North America and Europe and cooler temperatures. Another major issue is that you author of “The Ultimate Fruit Wine- Bio Springer CKS 102: I also frequently should not just sprinkle the dry yeast on maker’s Guide” at www.fruitwineguide. use this strain if I need aromatic berry the surface of the must. Sure, the wine com. A qualified sommelier, Dominic wines such as raspberry or delicate may still ferment but you are much studied winemaking and oenology at strawberry wines to really shine. Also more prone to developing a stuck or UC-Davis and passed the Wine and works great on tropical wines such as sluggish fermentation, which will create Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Diploma lychee, pineapple and passion fruit. off flavors and take away from the fruity with distinctions. In fruit wines, we want as clean a fer- aromas you need in a fruit wine. Rehy- ment as possible and this strain does drate the yeast well. This is one area would say that choosing a yeast a good job at it. where you do not want to skip corners. strain for a specific style of fruit Oenoferm Freddo: I have just started When choosing a yeast for fruit wine is very important. Yeast is a to use this yeast strain recently and I wines, go for the strain that can work I major key in differentiating a good am very happy with the results. I find well under low temperature, pH and wine and a truly great, award-winning that it brings out the fresh fruit aroma nutrient levels and more importantly wine. that I look for many of the wine styles accentuate aromatic qualities of the I experiment a fair amount with I produce. fruit. Sometimes yeasts are only avail- different strains of yeast and over the able in 500 g or even 1 kg packages, years I have narrowed my wine produc- The effects that different yeast which can be a lot of yeast if you are tion to the following strains: strains have on particular wines are making smaller amounts of wine. Get- varied, but as far as fruit wines are con- ting together with other winemakers Lallemand 71B: This is a great all cerned I am a strong believer that these or joining a winemaking club is a great around yeast for most off-dry fruit wines need to have a strong, clean and way to pool resources and buy some of wines. It really helps bring out the fresh aromatic quality to them. Be- these yeast strains to share. fresh fruitiness in most berry and cause fruit wines usually have a lower some tree fruit wines. nitrogen content to them and can be a Del Halladay founded the Elephant Lallemand BA11: This strain is excellent bit hard on yeast, I look for strains that Island Orchard Winery in Naramata , on tree fruit and tropical fruit wines. work well in lower nutrient content British Columbia with his wife Miranda It really helps develop the aroma and and accentuate fresh aromatic qualities in 1999. can increase mouthfeel. under less than ideal conditions. Lallemand EC1118: A good all around The main method of experimenta- Choosing a fruit wine yeast is very yeast, especially with wines with low tion is by doing smaller scale bench important — that’s one of the starting pH or starting the ferment at low trials before deciding on a yeast strain points for any wine. Yeast strains impart temperatures. If you need the fruit to use and making larger quantities of some very different characteristics on wine to ferment to a very dry level, or wine with it. The easiest way to experi- the wine. I’ve done a lot of different to make a sparkling wine, this is the ment with different strains is to split a experiments with yeast and the differ- yeast to use. particular batch of wine into two, three ences are amazing. The ultimate start- Lallemand ICV-K1: Great at bringing out or four smaller batches and inoculate ing point is the fruit, but the yeast is the freshness in tree fruit wines such as each with different yeast strains. After a first step the winemaker does to steer apple or peach. It will ferment well, wine is fermented, fined and filtered, the the wine in a certain direction. no matter what the pH or tempera- wines are then evaluated on a standard We use yeasts primarily from Lal- ture of the must is. I use this strain 20-point judging system (color, aroma, lemand (Lalvin) that we get through the most. taste and finish), very often it is done Scott Laboratories. My number one, go- Lallemand R2: A very good, strong in wine competitions. Obviously the to strain is EC1118 (Prise De Mousse), strain, ideal for very sweet fruit wines, winner indicated which yeast strain pro- which is good because it performs in a cryo-extrated wines and wines that duced a better wine. It is amazing how fairly harsh environment and in cooler need to ferment at low temperatures obviously different the wines can be! temperatures. With EC1118, you have to to retain the aromatic qualities. I use Most professional winemakers don’t be sure you have high enough nutri- this yeast in “iced” fruit wines with a give a thought to using a different wine ent levels. If you don’t have the proper lot of success. yeast strain with their wines. The big- nutrient levels you can run into H2S Lallemand VIN13: I use this yeast in gest problem that many home wine- problems. K1 (V1116) will start up at wines that need higher alcohol with- makers have is the lack of knowledge lower temperatures and can handle out fortification as it can ferment to on the effect of using different yeasts high alcohol — up to 18%. I use K1 almost 17% without any help. It gives on different types of wines. Don’t just specifically for stuck ferments. 71B is a

17 WineMaker Magazine Country Wines © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved COUNTRY WINE YEAST TIPS strain that is used for developing fruit shoot for a base wine around 9% ABV. they have, then work within the param- qualities and softens really high acid Two other strains I like are F33, eters of the strain — some yeasts simply wines like black currant, raspberry and because it works in low nitrogen or don’t work in certain environments. Also, crabapples. It seems to soften the acid nutrient environments and has a pretty if you can, know your free sulfur — some and brings out nice delicate fruit flavors. good alcohol tolerance, and R2, which strains really don’t like it and will make We also make some sparkling wines does very well at cold temperatures. If some really ugly byproducts because of and I’m just getting into using ProElif, you can’t get your ambient tempera- it. Try the same fruit base wine with two which is a double-encapsulated yeast ture up, R2 yeast gets in there and gets different yeasts and identify the benefits that is added directly to the bottle to working, but you need to give it a fair and attributes of the yeast. We experi- initiate bottle fermentation. The cool amount of nutrients. It produces intense, mented a lot like this when we started thing about these little beads is that direct fruity and floral notes and brings the winery to originally find the best you don’t need to riddle the wine — the fruit characters out. strains of fruits but ended up finding they sink to the bottom of the bottle If you’re trying to find the right out a lot about yeasts as well. because the capsules have more density. yeasts at home, experiment with a cou- It saves a lot of heartache, although if ple of strains that you think would work your alcohol SO2 levels are too high well. Get all the information on each they struggle. I add them at 15ppm and strain and figure out what limitations Photo by Charles A. Parker/Images Plus

DANDELION WINE not likely to be making huge quanti- 12-oz. (355-mL) can white grape juice Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) ties of this wine, we do not recommend concentrate (Welch’s, Old Orchard, bentonite, which tends to be wasteful etc.) By Paul Dunseath of wine in small quantities. 2.0 lbs. (0.91 kg) granulated sugar This will produce a fairly alcoholic 2 tsp. acid blend INGREDIENTS wine since the starting specific gravity 7 pts. (3.3 L) water 8 cups dandelion petals will be around 1.100. If a lighter wine 2 Campden tablets 1 1 2- ⁄2 lbs. (1.13 kg) sugar is desired, the sugar may be reduced ⁄2 tsp. potassium sorbate 1 lb. (0.45 kg) raisins (chopped) accordingly — but the starting SG 1 tsp. yeast nutrient 4 tsp. acid blend for white wine should not be below 1.080, which calls your favorite white wine yeast 1 tsp. yeast energizer for about 2 pounds (0.91 kg) of sugar 1 ⁄4 tsp. potassium metabisulfite (make sure you check with a hydrom- STEP BY STEP 1 ⁄4 tsp. tannin eter). The acid level will be about 5 Thaw grape juice concentrate and put 1 gallon hot water grams per liter. If you prefer a higher water on to boil. While water rises to a Lalvin EC-1118 yeast acidity level, it is a simple matter to boil, separate flowers from stalks and 1 ⁄4 tsp. ascorbic acid adjust it when formulating the wine. wash to remove insects and dust. Put For example, each additional teaspoon flowers, sugar and grape juice con- STEP BY STEP of acid blend will raise the acidity centrate in the primary fermentation Place all ingredients except the yeast, by about 1.25 grams per liter. I use a vessel and pour boiling water over yeast energizer and ascorbic acid in a reductive acid blend fro; failing that, I them. Stir well to dissolve sugar, cover clean and sanitized primary fermenter suggest a blend of 80% tartaric, 15% primary, and set aside several hours and pour the gallon of hot water over malic and 5% citric acid. until cool. Add acid blend, one finely them. Stir with a sanitized spoon to This is a light wine with a similar- crushed and dissolved Campden tablet dissolve the sugar. When cool — about ity to some Sauternes — that is, an and yeast nutrient. Stir briefly. Re- room temperature, but not more than aromatic white wine with a delicate cover the primary and set aside for 12 75 °F (24 °C) — add the yeast and yeast flavor, light color and taste. It is also hours. Add activated yeast in a starter energizer. If you can’t find the Lalvin fast-maturing, typically being ready solution. Ferment six days, strain off strain I prefer, use another quality for Christmas or New Year’s period, flowers, pour liquid into secondary, and yeast intended for white wine. For the although it will continue to improve attach an airlock. Rack when specific energizer, I use half diammonium phos- for another six months. gravity is at 1.005, top up and refit the phate (DAP) and half yeast hulls. airlock. After additional three months, Ferment for three days, then strain stabilize with potassium sorbate and off into a closed fermenter fitted with ELDERFLOWER WINE finely crushed and dissolved Campden an airlock, leaving petals and raisin Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) tablet, sweeten to taste, wait 30 days, pulp behind. The first racking will rack if needed or bottle. Age four to six likely be in about three weeks when By Jack Keller months before tasting. the specific gravity has dropped below 1.000. The second racking should be The white or whitish-yellow flowers of all performed when the wine has thrown a species and varieties of elder are pleas- RHUBARB WINE deposit and is beginning to clear (after antly fragrant and impart a Muscat-like Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) about three months). flavor. They are also edible and can be When the wine is clear and stable, fried in fritter batter, added to pancake or By Alexis Hartung fine if desired, add one quarter tea- muffin batter, cooked into pies and tarts, spoon ascorbic acid as an antioxidant and added fresh to salads or many other Rhubarb is a delicate wine with a floral and bottle. The wine may be slightly food dishes. However, many would say nose. It is consumed within a year or two, sweetened to about one percent they are best made into wine. after which the aromas and flavor will residual sugar if a stabilizer such as Elderflower wine is an acquired not be as fresh. Consider blending apple potassium sorbate is also added to pre- taste and not appreciated by everyone. cider or strawberry wine to rhubarb wine vent re-fermentation in the bottle. Due Too many flowers will yield an almost for a more complex taste. to the virtually non-existent protein undrinkable wine, so do not exceed the level, fining is not usually necessary. amount in the one-gallon (3.8-L) recipe INGREDIENTS If, however, the wine does not clear below. This wine is great served chilled 3 pounds (1.35 kg) rhubarb, thinly spontaneously, kieselsol — followed in on a hot afternoon. sliced but not peeled 24 hours by chitin — is recommended. 2-1/4 pounds (1 kg) corn sugar Be sure to follow package directions INGREDIENTS 1 Campden tablet, crushed and dis- and do not over-fine. Because you are 1.25 pt. (0.56 L) fresh elderflowers solved

2 teaspoons calcium carbonate into another clean and sterile glass 1 Campden tablet, crushed and dis- 1 teaspoon complete nutrient secondary. Stabilize by adding 1 Camp- solved in a bit of hot water 2 teaspoons acid blend den tablet, crushed and dissolved in a 1 package yeast (Lalvin K1-V1116 or 1–4 ounces (28–112 g) white grape small amount of warm water. Red Star Champagne) concentrate (optional) Once fermentation is complete, 1 package wine yeast it will begin to clear. Add the fining After fermentation: (clearing) agent, Sparkolloid, accord- 1 Campden tablet After fermentation: ing to directions on package. Let sit Bentonite, per package instructions 1 Campden tablet, crushed and dis- 2-3 weeks and rack again. After three Potassium sorbate solved more weeks rack again. If a dry wine is 1 ⁄2 teaspoon potassium sorbate preferred, check the sulfite level and STEP BY STEP: 1 12 ounces (336 g) sugar dissolved in ⁄2 adjust to 35-45 ppm free sulfite. Sort rose hips, discard foreign matter 1 cup warm water For a sweet wine, dissolve ⁄2 and stems. Wash, drain and crush rose teaspoon potassium sorbate in a small hips. Place in a fine mesh straining bag; STEP BY STEP amount of water. Add to the wine and tie the top. Place sugar, grape concen- Wash and drain ripe rhubarb stalks. Do stir. Then dissolve sugar in 2 table- trate, acid blend, yeast nutrient and not use the leafy part of the plant. Cut spoons warm water. Add to the wine. dissolved Campden in the fermenter. stalks into thin slices. Stir the slices Stir thoroughly. Wait 20 to 30 minutes Pour the hot water over ingredients. together with the dry sugar. Cover until to taste and evaluate the sweetness. If Stir until sugar is dissolved. Add rose most of the sugar has dissolved, about additional sweetness is desired, further hips. Cover with clean cloth, fermen- 24 hours. Strain off the liquid. (Save sugar additions may be made. ter lid or plastic cover. Wait 24 hours. the liquid, of course!) Stir the pulp in Filter wine, if desired. Siphon wine Test for acidity; adjust. Rehydrate the 1 a little water. Strain again. With a little into clean, sanitized bottles and cork. yeast in ⁄4 cup warm water. Sprinkle more water, rinse all of the remaining Allow wine to rest upright for 10 days the yeast on top. Wait 5 minutes; stir to sugar and place it with the rhubarb before placing bottles on their sides. mix thoroughly. Add yeast to rose hip liquor in a primary fermenter. Use must. Stir thoroughly. Cover. Stir twice enough water to make up volume to a day. 1 1- ⁄8 gallons (4.3 kg). Stir thoroughly to ROSE HIP WINE Press the pulp lightly when hy- dissolve all of the sugar. Discard the Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) drometer reading is 8 °Brix or specific pulp. gravity is 1.030 (3 to 4 days). Siphon In a 2-cup measuring container, By Alexis Hartung wine into a clean, sanitized secondary remove 1 cup of the rhubarb liquor and fermenter and attach a drilled rubber stir in the calcium carbonate. Foam- If Ethel Merman had ever tasted rose-hip stopper and air lock filled with 1 ounce ing will occur but will subside. (Note: wine, the lyrics of her most famous song water. Allow wine to ferment to -1.5 The calcium carbonate neutralizes the might have been a bit different. (“Every- °Brix or specific gravity 0.994. Add 1 excess oxalic acid that is present in the thing’s coming up rose hips?”) If you have Campden tablet, crushed and dissolved 1 rhubarb.) When all foaming ceases, stir rose bushes you can use the rose hips in ⁄4 cup of warm water. Add bentonite the calcium carbonate mixture into the (the base of the flower that bulges after according to manufacturer’s directions. rhubarb liquor. the petals have fallen) as long as you do Wait 2-3 weeks, siphon wine away from Stir in the yeast nutrient, acid not spray with pesticides. A delicate floral sediment. After 4-6 week intervals, blend, grape concentrate, and dis- wine is produced. White grape concen- siphon a second and third time. Filter solved Campden. Cover and let sit for trate will give additional body and flavor. wine. 1 24 hours. Measure ⁄4 cup of warm (105 Sweeten prior to bottling to achieve a Taste the wine to determine if °F/41 °C) water to rehydate the yeast. semi-dry to sweet residual sugar level (4 sweetening is desired. If sugar is 1 Sprinkle yeast in the water and let sit to 24 tablespoons of sugar per gallon). added, ⁄2 teaspoon potassium sorbate for at least 5 minutes. Stir to dissolve. Rose hips are high in Vitamin C. is added per gallon (3.8 liters) of wine. Stir yeast into the must. Cover. Stir To sweeten the wine, start with 4–8 1 vigorously twice daily. After 3 to 4 days INGREDIENTS ounces (112–224 g) sugar in ⁄4 cup 1 or when the hydrometer reading is 2- ⁄2 pounds (1.1 kg) fresh rose hips or warm water, stirring to dissolve. Add 8 °Brix, specific gravity 1.030, siphon 10 oz. dried whole rose hips to the wine and stir thoroughly. Wait 1 wine into a glass secondary fermenter. 7- ⁄2 pints hot water 20 to 30 minutes before tasting. Add Attach an airlock half-filled with water 2 pounds (0.9 kg) sugar additional sugar, to taste, until desired (1 ounce). 4–6 ounces (112–168 g) white grape sweetness is achieved. Filter, if desired. When ferment is complete (0 to -1.5 concentrate Bottle. °Brix, specific gravity 1.000 to 0.994), 1 teaspoon acid blend about 1-2 weeks, rack off the sediment 1 teaspoon complete yeast nutrient

HIBISCUS FLOWER WINE them, but they left when I disturbed Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) them. With one hand gather the petals and with the other hand cut the petals By Jack Keller off with a long, sharp knife.

Your health food market will likely carry INGREDIENTS 1 Hibiscus sabdariffa flowers already 2 ⁄2 quarts (2.4 L) firmly-packed cactus dried and ready to be crushed for tea. I flowers 3 generally buy dried red or purple flowers, 1 ⁄4 lbs. (0.79 kg) granulated sugar which makes a delicious bright red or One 11-oz. (0.31-kg) can 100% white deep purple wine. grape juice concentrate (frozen) 1 2 ⁄4 tsp. acid blend INGREDIENTS 2 pinches grape tannin 1 2.0 oz. (57 g) dried hibiscus flowers 6 ⁄4 pints (5.9 L) water 2.0 lbs. (0.91 kg) sugar 1 crushed Campden tablet 7 pints (3.3 L) water 1 tsp. yeast nutrient 1 1 ⁄2 tsp. acid blend 1 pkg Champagne wine yeast 1 tsp. yeast nutrient 1 pkg Red Star Côte des Blancs wine STEP BY STEP yeast Wash the flowers and put in nylon straining bag with a dozen sanitized STEP BY STEP marbles for weight, tie bag, and place Combine water and sugar and put in primary. Heat 1 quart water and on to boil, stirring occasionally until dissolve sugar.Cool with frozen grape sugar is dissolved. Tie flowers in nylon juice concentrate and remaining water straining bag and put in primary. Pour and add to primary.Add remaining boiling sugar-water over flowers and ingredients except yeast and stir well stir in all ingredients except yeast. to dissolve. Cover primary with sani- Cover primary until water cools to tized muslin and wait 10–12 hours room temperature. Squeeze flowers before adding activated yeast. Re-cover to extract maximum flavor and then primary and stir twice daily. discard flowers or reuse for tea. Add When specific gravity drops to activated yeast, re-cover the primary, 1.020, drip-drain bag and transfer wine and stir daily until active fermentation to secondary. Affix airlock and set aside. dies down (7–8 days). Rackto second- Rack after 45 days and again after an- ary, top up with water if required and other 45 days, topping up and refitting fit airlock. Ferment 30 days, then rack airlock each time. When fermentation into clean secondary. Refit airlock and finishes wine should begin to clear, rack again after additional 30 days. although pollen will continue to settle Wait a final 2 months, rack again and for another 1–2 months. You can speed stabilize wine. Sweeten to taste and set this up using a 2-part fining regimen aside 30 days. Bottle in dark glass. May such as Super Kleer K-C. Rack again 60 drink immediately, but improves in six days after wine has cleared, top up and months. reattach airlock. Set aside another 90- 120 days to bulk age. Stabilize, sweeten to taste (1.004 was perfect for me) and CACTUS FLOWER WINE rack into bottles. May taste after six Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) months in bottle. Ages well.

By Jack Keller

If you live in an area where prickly pear cactus grows, this is a wonderful wine, best served cool or cold. Look inside the flowers before harvesting them. I found a bee in almost every one of

APPLE WINE SPARKLING APPLE CIDER the fermenter. Discard the sediment. 1 Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) Makes 1 gallon (3.8 L) Stir the ⁄4 cup dissolved corn sugar into the cider. Cider may be bottled By Jack Keller By Alexis Hartung in sanitized champagne or home- brew bottles. Apply crown caps. (Note: In all apple wine recipes, unless variet- More than 100 types of apples are avail- Because you added sugar and the ies are specified, the more acid and sour able and can be used to make apple cider contains residual yeast, a second varieties are preferred. Sweeter eating wine. Try combining varieties for more fermentation will occur in the bottle varieties, especially Delicious, are to be complex apple taste. Low- and high-acid to carbonate the beverage. Be sure to avoided. Winesap, McIntosh, Jonathans, varieties can be crushed together with use the recommended bottles, which and crab apples are best. excellent results. are made to withstand the pressure of fermentation.) INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS Age for three months. Chill. Since a 12 lb. (5.4 kg) of ripe, windfall apples 1 gallon (3.8 liters) of fresh apple cider small skim of yeast rests on the bottom (mixed varieties are OK) without preservatives (sodium ben- of these bottles, try not to disturb the 2.0 lb. (0.91 kg) finely granulated sugar zoate or sulfites) sediment while pouring. Tilt the glass 5 pints (2.4 L) water 10 drops liquid pectic enzyme (if using at a 45° angle and gently tilt bottle as 1 1 ⁄2 tsp. pectic enzyme dry pectic enzyme, follow manufac- you pour. 1 crushed Campden tablet turer’s directions) 1 tsp. yeast nutrient 1 teaspoon yeast nutrient, dissolved in 1 pkg Sauterne or Champagne yeast 1 tablespoon of water 1 Campden tablet, crushed and dis- STEP BY STEP solved in warm water Chop the apples into small pieces, 1 packet of wine yeast (Red Star Pas- avoiding the core so as not to cut any teur Champagne, Premier Cuvée or seeds. Put into primary fermentation Côte des Blancs; Lalvin K1-V1116 or vessel, add the water and crushed and EC-1118) 1 1 dissolved Campden tablet and cover ⁄4 cup corn sugar dissolved in ⁄4 cup the mixture with sanitized muslin water or towel. The water will not cover the apples, so stir every two hours to STEP-BY-STEP bring bottom apples to the top. After Stir the apple cider, pectic enzyme, 12 hours, add the pectic enzyme and yeast nutrient and dissolved Campden yeast nutrient, recover the primary, and tablet together in your primary fer- continue occasional stirring to circu- menter. The tablet will help to prevent late the fruit. After additional 12 hours, browning and the pectic enzyme will add activated yeast. Keep covered and aid in clearing. Cover. in a warm place for 7–10 days, stirring After 24 hours, rehydrate wine yeast 1 twice daily. in ⁄4 cup warm water (105 °F, 41 °C) When the vigorous fermentation for 15 minutes. Stir thoroughly into the of the pulp subsides, strain the juice must (cider). Cover. through a nylon straining bag and set Stir twice daily. After 4 to 6 days, aside, then firmly (but not too hard) siphon cider into a glass secondary press the juice from the pulp and add fermenter (8 °Brix, specific gravity on this to the set-aside liquid. Slowly stir the hydrometer will be 1.030 or lower). in the sugar (finely granulated) and Attach an airlock filled with approxi- continue stirring until completely dis- mately one ounce of water. Note: A solved. Pour into secondary fermenta- cider has no additional sugar added for tion vessel and fit with airlock. Rack fermentation. Hence, it is a low-alcohol when clear, allow another 60 days, then beverage. rack again and bottle. Allow six months In 2 to 4 weeks, the fermenta- before tasting, one year for best results. tion will be complete (0 to -1.5 °Brix, specific gravity will be 1.000 or lower). Rack the hard cider into another clean, sanitized glass secondary, leaving the undisturbed sediment on the bottom of