FOR THE HARLEY-DAVIDSON® ENTHUSIAST SINCE 1916 N I L L O R A I D N I N I S R U O H 2 1 T N E M U N O M E H T D N I H E B N A M E H T G R E V I R E H T F F O s p N I R 0 1 0 2 g

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All-NeW 2011 sUPer dUTY® *Class is Full-Size Pickups over 8,500 lbs. GVWR. GET MORE INFO aT Fordvehicles.com Contents Photography: Michael Lichter Photography:

26

Features Departments 34

26 The Road to Agra 10 Editor A 12-hour quest to see the Taj Mahal. 12 Intake 34 Rolling Off the River Simple pleasures of the Ohio River Valley. 14 The Word 40 Firsthand 18 Spotlight Current H-D® Touring owners react to the new models. 20 Next Ride 44 Man of Metal 22 Get Going Meet sculptor Jeff Decker, the man behind the Hill Climber monument at the H-D Museum.® 24 Between the Lines 52 $100 Rides 54 Enthusiasts How far can you stretch 100 bucks? The first in a series. 62 Gear 64 Archives 66 Exhaust

44 Michael Lichter Photography: Backstage

Screamin’ Eagles Tripping the quarter-mile lights in 6.8 seconds at speeds approaching 200 mph, the National Hot Rod Association’s Pro Stock are among the world’s fastest two-wheeled machines. Eddie Krawiec, the 2008 NHRA Pro Stock world champion (right), wrenches on his Vance & Hines/Screamin’ Eagle® Harley-Davidson® V-Rod® in between rounds of the NHRA Spring Nationals in Houston, April 9-11, assisted by crew chief Matt Hines, older brother of his three-time PSM champion teammate Andrew Hines (2004-06), and himself a three-time class champion. Krawiec, winner of the season’s opening round at Gainsville, Florida, and Hines squared off against each other in the third round of eliminations at Houston, with Hines prevailing with a 6.90-second run to nip Krawiec at the light. Hines would go on to take the overall event victory later that day for his 19th career National event win. Photography: Matt Polito Matt Photography:

6 HOG HOG 7 Backstory Vintage Evel “I THINK IT’S BETTER TO RISK MY LIFE and to be a has-been than to never have been at all. Even though crippled and busted in half, it’s better to have taken a chance to win a victory or suffer a defeat than to live like others do who will never know victory or defeat because they haven’t had the guts to try either.” –Evel Knievel, Sports Illustrated, September 2, 1974 To read more about the legendary stuntman, and learn about a special exhibit at the Harley-Davidson Museum,® see “Archives” on Page 64.

Photograph courtesy of the Harley-Davidson Motor Company Archives. Copyright H-D.®

8 HOG HOG 9 Editor

H.O.G.® Blogging

Blogs are everywhere. Your neighbor has one, copyright 2010 H-D ON THE COVER: The larger-than-life “Hill Climber” statue your cousin has one, and now H.O.G. has one. Or more has become an iconic image of the Harley-Davidson Museum® in . accurately, now you have one. Photography: Mark Brautigam Recently at members.hog.com, we launched general Manager, harley owners group® Benny Suggs

four themed blogs covering a wide variety of topics executive editor addressing aspects of H.O.G. and Harley-Davidson Paul James editor that we hope will enhance your riding experience. Matt King The “HOG® Blog” is dedicated to expanding the Design and Production GS Design print version of this magazine into the virtually Visit Harley-Davidson Motor Co. on the Internet at www.harley-davidson.com. unlimited boundaries of the Web. We’ll be previewing We care about you. Ride safely, respectfully, and within and enhancing content from these pages, in addition the limits of the law and your abilities. Always wear an approved helmet, proper eyewear, and protective clothing and insist your passenger does too. Never ride to featuring new content we just don’t have the space while under the influence of alcohol or drugs. Know your Harley® motorcycle and read and understand your for in the magazine. owner’s manual from cover to cover. In the “On the Road” blog, experts from HOG magazine is published by Harley-Davidson for owners of Harley-Davidson® motorcycles and anyone Harley-Davidson Motor Company will share tips interested in news about the Motor Company, its products, and activities. Subscriptions are limited to and techniques on all aspects of motorcycle riding – from where to go, how to pack for the U.S. We reserve the right to edit all submissions for a long trip, maintenance tips, riding education, and more. publication in HOG. The “Events” blog will feature information about upcoming local, state, and national All submissions become property of Harley-Davidson Motor Co. If you’d like your photo returned, please send a H.O.G. rallies and other events – such as Million Mile Monday (don’t miss it on June 28!); self-addressed stamped envelope with your submission. All H-D® and Buell® product illustrations, photographs, our Ridin’ the Ridge and Motoring the Mother Road touring rallies; and many other events, and specifications mentioned in the publication are based on the latest product information at the time big and small, flung far and wide. This will be the place for your local chapter to share its of publication. The right is reserved to make changes at any time in prices, , materials, equipment, events with riders from around the country (and the world), along with coverage of events specifications, and models and also to discontinue models. Some vehicles in this publication are shown with you may have missed but hope to attend in the future. available equipment. HOG will not intentionally publish fraudulent or Finally, the fourth blog, “Why I Am a H.O.G. Member,” may be the most important. Here, misleading advertising. HOG does not endorse any advertiser or its products, and cannot be responsible for members like you can share stories about how being a member of the largest motorcycle advertisers’ claims. Some advertised products are not available outside the U.S. riders club in the world has affected your life and enhanced your riding enjoyment. From To order HOG or change mailing address, e-mail us the inspirational stories so many of you have shared with us personally over the years, we at [email protected] or write: HOG, Harley-Davidson, Inc., P.O. Box 453, Milwaukee, WI 53201, know this will be a hot topic – and one that’s sure to provide a spark of passion in many or visit: www.harley-davidson.com/hog. When requesting a change of address, include your other members. mailing label from the back cover. In the months to come, we’ll be adding even more interactive features to members.hog.com. To advertise in HOG, e-mail John Sandberg at jsandberg@ integraonline.com. But the one crucial element that links all of these online components is you, the H.O.G. HOG may allow others to use its mailing list. If you member and HOG reader. do not want your name included, please write: HOG, Harley-Davidson, Inc., P.O. Box 453, Milwaukee, WI 53201. For H.O.G.® Million Mile Monday to succeed in 2010, it doesn’t take The beauty of the Internet is that it allows instantaneous, organic interaction of voices No part of HOG may be reproduced for any purpose in entirety or part without the express written consent of a lot of miles – it only takes you. Whether you ride 10 minutes from around the world, and the primary intent behind this new online community is to Harley-Davidson. or all day, it counts. And it helps H.O.G. reach its worldwide provide an opportunity for you to participate. Rather than the Motor Company only Harley-Davidson, Harley, H-D, HOG, and the Bar & Shield logo are among the trademarks of H-D Michigan, LLC. goal of riding five million miles in a single day. talking to you, what we really want is for you to talk to us about anything and everything that motivates you as a Harley® rider and H.O.G. member. And that should be much more interesting than reading about what your cousin had for lunch yesterday. Then register your miles at members.hog.com by 3PM(CDT) on Tuesday, June 29. If you do, we all Matt King succeed – no matter how high the virtual odometer climbs. For more information or to purchase Million Mile Monday gear, log on to members.hog.com.

10 HOG Date and event details subject to change. Intake Being a recent member of the Harley SPIN DRY family and a H.O.G. member since 2008, Thank you for the interesting article “All I would like to say I enjoy the diverse Washed Up” in the Winter 2010 issue [005]. articles in your magazine. I’m sure it I would like to add the following : becomes difficult to appeal to everyone. After washing, ride the bike a few Hopefully you can represent all walks of miles to warm up the tires and dry water life and not be dominated by those who from nooks and crannies. Water left in find offense instead of entertainment. the wheel spokes or tire rim edges can MIKE SEEGERS settle between the inner tube lining and DE SOTO, WISCONSIN the inside of the rim, causing rust and BUNS OF STEEL The freedom of motorcycle riding possibly a slow leak. Riding forces water DEER CONCERNS out via centrifugal force and also heats up Great article. [“Crazy … Like a Hero?” HOG is almost by nature rebellious, the tires, eliminating this problem. 005.] Jim has the stamina and tenacity of Concerning nighttime road hazards very few. I would never guess someone MICHAEL S. JACKSON [“Between the Lines: To See and Be could ride like that. One question: In the and colorful language and clothing SOUTH WEBER, UTAH Seen,” HOG 005], I’d like to contribute an article you mentioned him riding through styles celebrate that heritage. observation about deer. One night, a herd Rapid City. I looked at your map of the JEFE SMITH SAN DIEGO, of about seven or eight deer crossed the AID FIRST routes and noticed he never went into road I’d been riding. After what I thought South Dakota …? I read Mel Albiston’s article “Long- was the last deer to cross, I was about to Distance Touring” in HOG 005 and offer Don Haagenson ON THE DEFENSIVE If you don’t like what the Motor Company If you don’t like the article, DON’T read accelerate when another emerged from the following: Expanding on Step 1, VIA E-MAIL is doing, then I have an idea: Buy another it! If you don’t like the words, DON’T say the tree line. Then another, and another, The letters under the title “On the involving “Good Company,” I would make The route map accompanying the brand with a slogan that used to read, them! If you don’t like the lifestyle, DON’T etc. This continued for a while, and I did Offensive” in HOG® issue 005 generated sure at least two in the riding group are article represented only three legs of “You Meet the Nicest People on a ….” live it. And if that doesn’t work, “Screw It, not proceed until I was sure it was safe. more mail than we’ve received for any trained in basic first aid and equipped Jim’s ride, not the entire journey. This You get the picture. It’s a free country. Let’s Ride.” Remember, if you see one deer there are other article in my time at HOG and with reasonably sophisticated first-aid could have been clearer – sorry for the “Too Short” SCOTT ESKER probably more! Enthusiast.® Following are just a few of the kits. Why two? So someone is available to misunderstanding. –Ed. DETROIT, MICHIGAN EASTON, MASSACHUSETTS CHRISTOPHER MYERS “fit-for-print” responses. –Ed. help if the other trained rider goes down. VIA E-MAIL TOM BRANCH What an amazing feat by Jim Campbell! The freedom of motorcycle riding is Good grief!! For me, life is too short a ride VIA E-MAIL Don’t let minority opinions censor I just want to know what kind of seat he almost by nature rebellious, and colorful to get my panties all in a bunch (oops, EMERALD JOURNEY your magazine. Harley® riders are not a had. I want one! language and clothing styles celebrate probably offended someone with that) stereotype, they are as diverse as your Reading Gary McKechnie’s article on the ALONG THE ROAD MIKE BLOUNT articles. I rented Season 1 of “Sons of that heritage. Let’s not gut the freedom of over such issues. I’ll just borrow from the Florida Panhandle brought back fond I enjoyed the article in HOG 005 about BEAUMONT, TEXAS Anarchy” after reading HOG 003. I didn’t riding and expression completely. This is Motor Company and say, “Screw It, Let’s memories of the trip my posse and I did roadside attractions and want to share care for the violence so I didn’t watch the still a Harley magazine after all, not Good Ride” (did it again, didn’t I?). last March on basically the same route. Jim used the touring seat (P/N 52128-08A) something. Two years ago I organized what series. My choice. End of story. Housekeeping. FRED FREDERICK I would recommend this route to anyone and rider backrest (P/N 52167-08) that I termed the “World’s Largest Motorcycle FLORENCE, ARIZONA come standard on his 2008 Screamin’ G.L. WHITNEY JEFE SMITH stuck in the North with the winter blues. Trip.” Its purpose was to visit as many Eagle® CVO™ Ultra Classic® Electra Glide.® VIA E-MAIL SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA Ride on! large statues as possible. Growing up in He also added a sheepskin cover for extra STEVE DAHL If the magazine is offending you, QUIT central Minnesota, I was aware of several padding and ventilation “down under.” FAIRFIELD, CONNECTICUT Maybe these fine upstanding folks First of all, one thing we all must have READING IT! of these “world’s largest [insert animal or Check with your dealer first to see if they took a wrong turn: Instead of taking a in the world is tolerance. TIFFANY CUNNINGHAM object here]” sites and had long envisioned will fit your bike. –Ed. right to the Harley shop they should Second, if someone’s really bothered by a LAWTON, OKLAHOMA HEADS UP visiting them on a motorcycle trip. have turned left and went to the few skulls and (almost) curse words, then Planning the trip proved to be a labor of Any way you could divulge the model of the What’s Your Story? store. I understand those people like to I’d suggest picking up a home gardening love. As far as I can tell, there is no Google Maybe H-D and H.O.G.® are finally trying helmets Josh and Bacon are sporting on the We welcome your letters, photos, and congregate for ice cream socials and magazine or something. Keep the skulls Maps address for the world’s largest otter cover of the Winter 2010 issue [005]? riding stories. Please e-mail yours to and f-bombs comin.’ to tap into the younger market (which in Fergus Falls, Minnesota! Needless to say, conjugate their verbs. I, for one, don’t [email protected] or includes me, age 27). I have skull tattoos. GLENN the Ride Planner on harley-davidson.com want people around me who can’t loosen DANIEL GRIME mail them to … HOG magazine, P.O. Box I say bad words. I like the “death-culture” VIA E-MAIL up the old pucker string and live a little. VIA E-MAIL was a lifesaver. clothing, as you call it. Does this make me 453, Milwaukee, WI 53201. Please include Hell, my biggest problem with HOG is the They were wearing custom-painted versions MARK TONNESON a bad person? your name, address, telephone number, lack of a good centerfold. Why not, guys? of the new H-D® Retro Metal Flake 3/4 VIA E-MAIL and/or e-mail address. All submissions ADAM KRIZAN WAYNE A. DOOLIN Helmet, which should be available in become property of Harley-Davidson. VIA E-MAIL SALEM, OREGON dealerships as you read this. –Ed. We reserve the right to edit submissions for length and content.

12 HOG HOG 13 The Word

HDTLC www.youtube.com/harleydavidson Spirit of Evel Calling Bubba Blackwell: Your record for longest jump on a Harley-Davidson® motorcycle has been bettered – twice. Seth Enslow, an American freestyle rider, flew his modified Harley-Davidson XR1200™ 183.7 feet in Sydney, Australia, breaking Blackwell’s previous mark of 157 feet set in 1999. The jump was actually Enslow’s second of the day. On his first , Enslow flew 175 feet before realizing a large portion of the expected media contingent hadn’t yet arrived. So he repeated the performance later for even better results. Legendary daredevil Evel Knievel held the record before Three Small Things Blackwell, riding the Harley-Davidson XR750 dirt track racer, the same model Blackwell rides to make his jumps. Remember that day you rode your new Harley-Davidson Strap on Your motorcycle away from the dealership for the first time? “To many, Evel Knievel was the original extreme athlete Everything was perfect: all adjusted, lubricated, inflated, – long before there were extreme sports,” said Mark-Hans Steel Toes and calibrated exactly as it’s supposed to be. Chris Richer, Harley-Davidson Senior VP and Chief Marketing Visitors to the Harley-Davidson Museum® in Milwaukee Tribbey, Manager, Service Marketing & Retail Capabilities Officer. “This latest generation of riders still reveres can now expand their experience by taking a tour of the for Harley-Davidson, offers three simple things you can do Knievel – even as they attempt to smash his records.” ® 849,000-square-foot Pilgrim Road Powertrain Operations to help keep your Harley running that way every day. Visit www.youtube.com/harleydavidson to watch a video facility. This is a serious tour: Steel-toe shoes and safety goggles of Enslow’s jump. To read more about Evel Knievel, check out 1. Keep your tires inflated properly. Many people have no are required. Both will be provided to Steel Toe Tour ticket “Archives” on Page 64 of this issue. idea how far this simple step can go toward maximizing their holders – as will a Museum ticket, a shuttle ride to the Pilgrim ride quality. Consult your Owner’s Manual for your bike’s Road facility across town, a commemorative pin, and more. recommended cold tire pressures, then check them often – For details, visit www.h-dmuseum.com. ideally before every ride – adding air when needed. This will also help maximize your tires’ lifespan. While you’re looking at your tire pressures, also look at tire tread depth. You can check both Born to be Charitable See Inside Long on Fantasy, with the Harley-Davidson Tire Gauge (P/N 75110-98B). 2. Check and adjust your clutch cable and assembly. Many Since 1988, the MDA Ride for Life, presented by the Eastern Willie’s Brain Short on Camping people are familiar with adjusting their clutch cable tension, but Harley-Davidson Dealers Association, has raised awareness adjusting the clutch assembly is a simple process, as well. Once If you’ve ever wanted a Serious enthusiasts take note: Milwaukee, and funding for neuromuscular disease. Through its first you remove the derby cover to gain access, all you need are two chance to sit down with Willie G. Wisconsin is where you’ll want to be June 21-25, as the 22 incarnations, the event has raised more than $12 million wrenches – one allen and one open – to make adjustments. The dollars. In recent years, it has been averaging more than Davidson and the Styling team at first Harley‑Davidson Fantasy Camp offers the chance big difference these small adjustments can make in your bike’s $1 million dollars raised on an annual basis. the Product Development Center to become the ultimate Harley-Davidson insider: performance can be like night and day. For specific procedures, On May 1, 2010, the Ride for Life continued this strong (PDC) in Milwaukee, pick their • Enjoy special guided tours of the Harley-Davidson refer to the appropriate Harley-Davidson Service Manual. brains about styling, and – best Museum and Archives collection tradition, with high hopes of setting an all-time fund- 3. Check your belt tension. A properly adjusted belt is another raising record. World-renowned “action painter” Michael of all – have them help you customize your brand-new Harley- • Discover historic Harley-Davidson sites on a tour thing that will improve your bike’s performance more than you Israel was on hand to inspire the crowd with a spectacular Davidson motorcycle, you’ll never have a better opportunity. of Milwaukee probably realize. Tension should be checked at every scheduled show, featuring , light effects, and a unique acrobatic And did we mention the new bike would be yours FREE? • Tour the access-restricted Product Development Center (PDC) maintenance interval or once a year. It’s easy to check it yourself painting style the artist uses to produce stunning works of That’s what awaits one lucky Grand Prize winner in the • Learn how Harley-Davidson V-twin engines work from a with the Harley-Davidson Belt Tension Tester Tool (P/N 40006-85). art in record time. Harley-Davidson Super Ride Sweepstakes. To enter, all you Harley-Davidson University instructor Adjusting the tension, if needed, is a little more complicated, but the steps are outlined in your model’s Harley-Davidson Service “The most important reason for our success, however, is the have to do is make your way to a participating dealership • Ride with Harley-Davidson Motor Company executives Manual, if you’d like to try it yourself. kids,” emphasizes Brian Bentley, dealer operator/principal of between now and June 30, test ride a new Harley-Davidson • Enjoy a Milwaukee Brewers baseball game from the Brian’s Harley-Davidson in Langhorne, Pennsylvania. “They motorcycle, and enter your official code online. In addition Harley-Davidson Deck and experience Summerfest from But remember: For these or any other adjustments and are the driving force, with Matti Stepanek, Luke Christie, and to the Grand Prize, one $500 H-D™ Gift Card will be awarded the private Harley-Davidson Roadhouse maintenance, there’s no shame in taking your bike to the trained all of our local Goodwill Ambassadors helping us make this each day of the promotion. • And much more service professionals at your local Harley-Davidson dealership. They’re there to help. And always consult your Owner’s Manual the largest MDA motorcycle fund-raising event in the world.” For more information and to enter, visit www.harley- The package includes hotel, food, activities, and transportation davidson.com/superride. to all destinations – including use of a motorcycle for the rides. before doing any work yourself. For more information or to enroll, call 414-287-2799.

14 HOG HOG 15 The Word

H.O.G.® News Hey Benny! Benny Suggs is General Manager, H.O.G./Rider Services www.h-d.com/sturgis

Out of Rapid City and Hey, Benny! I love reading about Into the Heart of Sturgis the big trips, but I’m glad to see H.O.G. is on the move in South Dakota – along with all the A Cold Day at H.O.T. articles about short rides, too! official Harley-Davidson activities. Instead of Rapid City, look Rich Johnson – Sherwood, Arkansas As Benny Suggs alludes in his column at right, H.O.G. for us in the heart of Sturgis, at the intersection of Lazelle and ® training programs – both H.O.G. Officer Training (H.O.T.) and Rich, I agree completely! The team at HOG has been making a Third streets from Friday, August 6 through Friday, August 13. H.O.G. Rally Coordinator Training (H.R.C.T.) – have gotten off to a point of including short rides. For example, check out the “$100 This makes it that much easier to take part in all the great free hot start. More than 100 members took part in H.R.C.T. programs Rides” feature on Pages 52-53. And to illustrate your point activities offered by the Harley-Davidson Road Tour, including further, let me tell a little story (it’s what I do). (from 22 countries), a big jump from last year. At H.O.T. sessions, getting an up-close look at the latest Harley-Davidson® Have you ever seen hundreds of Harley-Davidson® motorcycles enthusiasm was running high, as evidenced by the photo above. motorcycles, Genuine Motor Accessories, MotorClothes® covered with 13 inches of snow – and everyone smiling and As Benny describes, hundreds of riders braved winter storm merchandise, demo rides off Interstate 90 at Exit 30, and more. having a great time? I have, just recently, in a true demonstration warnings to ride to the session in Rogers, Arkansas in March. In H.O.G. members, don’t forget to pick up your free pin! of H.O.G. loyalty, enthusiasm, and passion. April, the first worldwide H.O.T. session took place in Milwaukee, The bikes belonged to members attending a H.O.G. Officer where 1,200 attendees represented 25 countries. Training (H.O.T.) session in Rogers, Arkansas in March. They knew the snow was coming – but they rode anyway. Why? Because that’s what they do: ride. Because it’s H.O.G.! And, I’m sure, Three Down, 40+ to Go because they knew that a little adversity adds to the adventure. Some of these riders came from far away, but many others Here’s to the Winners As of mid-May, there are still more than 40 U.S. State H.O.G. came from close by. And they all had a great story to tell when Thanks to everyone who took part in the 2009 H.O.G. ABCs Rallies left on the calendar for 2010, in all parts of the country. they got home. Not because of the distance they rode but of Touring and Ladies of Harley® (LOH) Motorcycling Memories Whether you choose one nearby for a day or weekend because of their attitude. contests – and congratulations to the 2009 winners! getaway, or one across the country for an epic adventure, state Likewise, even though we have two outstanding events rallies are a great way to build an adventure of just about any planned this year with Ridin’ the Ridge and Motoring the Mother ABCs of Touring Contest size, scope, and scale. Road, you don’t have to make a big commitment to take part. United States For example, Million Mile Monday is coming up on June 28. Cost First Place – 150 points For a complete schedule, log on to the Events section at members.hog.com. Or check out the pull-out poster in the to participate: $0. Time required: as much or as little as you • Gordon Molenaar of Enid, Oklahoma (near right) want. The H.O.G. Mileage Program and ABCs of Touring contest HOG® 005 edition. Second Place – 133 points add an extra layer of purpose to any ride. Cost: $0. • Bob Beck of Enid, Oklahoma Plus, with 47 exciting state rallies taking place in 2010, there’s sure to be an event near you (or far away!) that suits your • Nancy Beck of Enid, Oklahoma ® H.O.G. Day Afternoon budget, your schedule, and your appetite for adventure. • David Brown of Brookville, Maryland Ladies of Harley® MOTORCYCLING MEMORIES Contest H.O.G. members attending the Milwaukee Summerfest music Remember: H.O.G. is what you make it. Whether you invest a Third Place – 132 points Grand Prize: Christine McGiffen of Vincennes, Indiana (above right) festival on “H.O.G. Day” (Thursday, July 1) will receive free admission lot or a little, you’ll always get more out of it than you put in. • Steven Branner of Charleston, West Virginia Best Tour: Ride free and often, Patricia Davis of Taylorsville, Kentucky to the grounds from Noon-3PM. Just present your valid H.O.G. Most Memorable: International Tammy Button of Elkland, Pennsylvania membership card at the tent located on the northwest corner of First Place – 82 points Most Adventurous: Nancy Pugliese of North Merrick, New York Chicago Street and Harbor Drive. H.O.G. members will also have • Javier Viveros Nava of Mexico City, Mexico exclusive access to the Harley Deck near the Harley-Davidson Stage Second Place – 52 points For a complete list of ABCs of Touring winners and to read the from 4-9PM. There’s no better way to enjoy the “World’s Largest Send your H.O.G.-related questions or comments to • Olaf Moon of Sydney, Australia Grand Prize LOH story by Christine (who rode more than 7,000 Music Festival” (www.summerfest.com)! [email protected] with “Hey Benny” Third Place – 50 points miles on her trip!), log on to members.hog.com. in the subject line. • Dean Rask of Dunedin, New Zealand HOG 17 Spotlight 2,448 MILES OF THE MOTHER ROAD. WAYS TO CUSTOMIZE when we were really out back, a 155-mile stretch of unsealed, TWO badly corrugated track left us with a broken front fork. But apart VENTURE. YOUR AD ® from sand and water in the carburetor, these were the only YS TO RIDE, H.O.G. MAKES IT EASIER mechanical mishaps, very similar to the 1958 ride.” WITH TWO WA When they arrived in Sydney two months later, 25 bikes FOR EVERYONE TO EXPERIENCE THIS UNIQUE AND accompanied them to a reception at Concord Hospital. “With EXCITING ADVENTURE: publicity via radio and television, and selling event T-shirts, et cetera, we raised $11,300 for the Ageing and Alzheimer’s C K A G E P R E M I U M P A Research Foundation,” Felton says. In all this time, Felton says he’s never “graduated” to a modern Enjoy a V .I.P., all-access experience along every mile of Route 66. Includes exclusive elcome Dinner; three “Mapping the Route” Harley® – he does all his riding on a 1940 U Model. Sinclair, perks such as the Riders’ Meeting and W allis; a free copy on the other hand, has owned a Road King® and a Softail® in presentations (including meals) with author and historian Michael W ’s Celebration” addition to his own 1948 Panhead. Whatever the vintage of their of the EZ 66 Guide for Travelers book; free admission to the “Survivor bikes, it’s clear both riders cherish the memories they’ve made in Ontario, California; and much, much more. on their Harley adventures. A C K A G E “The camaraderie and inspiration I get from riding my Harley , California E G U L A R P , Illinois to Los Angeles R will, I’m sure, endure for the rest of my life,” Felton says. “I hope Chicago , 2010 If you can’t commit to the entire event, ride along for a few days of your choosing. Graham Felton and John Sinclair I live long enough to ride in many more anniversaries.” September 11-25 This package includes an event bandana, pin, ride guide, and more, with limited ficial events. (Does not include, for example, meals, riders’ meetings, Repeat Performance Above left: Felton and Sinclair at the outset of their anniversary ride, 2008. access to of Below, top to bottom: Felton, tanned and ready to ride; Sinclair at the or opening/closing ceremonies.) The lasT Time ausTralians Graham FelTon and John “Dog on the Tuckerbox,” an Australian landmark, 1958. . sinclair graced the pages of a Harley-Davidson® publication PACKAGES, LOG ON TO MEMBERS.HOG.COM FOR COMPLETE DET AILS ON BOTH A’S MOST ICONIC was almost exactly 50 years ago. Appearing in the May 1960 FREE TO RIDE AMERIC WHICHEVER ONE YOU CHOOSE, YOU’LL BE edition of Enthusiast,® the pair celebrated the completion of AT YOUR OWN PACE, CHOOSING YOUR OWN ROADWAY HOWEVER YOU LIKE: RIDING a 6,500-mile tour of Australia they took in 1958 on a 1942 UL STOPS, AND HA VING THE TIME OF YOUR LIFE. Model rig. Half a century later, here they are again – this time in honor of the 50th anniversary ride the forever-young adventurers took in 2008. “Unfortunately, it was not on the same UL Model,” Felton laments. “I sold it in 1963 after it accidentally caught fire – but that’s another story.” After the original six-week trip, the pair went their separate ways and lost touch, and Felton stopped riding altogether. More than 40 years later, he learned that he and Sinclair were not the first to make such a trip. In 1929, Jack Bowers and Frank Smith rode the entire perimeter of Australia on a J Model Harley- Davidson. Inspired by this to resume his adventuring ways, Felton tracked down his old mate and convinced Sinclair (a.k.a. “Sassy”) to recreate Bowers’ and Smith’s 1929 ride in 2004, on its 75th anniversary, as a fundraiser for Alzheimer’s disease research. They then set their sights on retracing their own ride. In 1958, Felton and Sinclair battled searing heat, rutted roads, the desolate Outback, and bands of marauding kangaroos to complete their journey. Roads have improved in the half-century since, but the Outback and the kangaroos are a constant. The heat, however, they could avoid by doing their trip in autumn instead of summer. “Problems? Yes, we had our share,” Felton recalls of the 2008 ride. “By the time we reached Townsville [1,400 miles north of Sydney], the generator and clutch needed to be repaired. Later,

.COM . 18 HOG AILS OR TO REGISTER, LOG ON TO MEMBERS.HOG TION IS NOW OPEN! FOR DET ils subject to change. REGISTRA Dates, locations, and event deta Spring 2010 Issue — HOG — Full page color ad —Trim- 7-7/8” x 10-1/2” Advertiser: U.S. Bank-H-D Signature VISA Media Contact: Joyce Hart 612-973-2310 Art Contact: Shelley Timm-Thompson, Raindance Advertising LLC (708) 771-9948

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Calgary, Alberta, Canada • July 9-18, 2010 Calgary Stampede APPLY nOw! Part rodeo, part cowboy-culture extravaganza, the Calgary ® * Stampede is one of the most unique and exciting events in all GET $10 in HArLEY CHrOmE CAsH. of North America. The highlight for most is the world-famous nightly chuck wagon races – a thrilling, hoof-pounding “modern” 1-877-742-4766, ExT. 41591 • H-DvisA.COm/41591 version of the chariot races of old. But the highlights for those who venture there on two wheels may well be the nearby Canadian Stampede Calgary Photography: Rocky Mountains, Banff and Jasper national parks, and the breath- *Subject to credit approval. 1 U.S. Bank cannot control how merchants choose to classify their business and reserves the right to determine which purchases qualify. Fast food merchants may not qualify for additional bonus points. taking Icefields Parkway that connects them. You’re Next! Got an idea for a great Next Ride? 2 The Signature card provides the benefit of a No Pre-Set Spending Limit and a Revolve Limit that allows you to carry a designated part of your balance from one statement to the next. A No Pre-Set Spending Limit does not mean unlimited spending. Authorizations are provided using information such as account history, credit record, income verification and liquid assets. http://cs.calgarystampede.com Send your suggestion, along with a high-quality photograph Please refer to visa.com/signature for program details. www.icefieldsparkway.ca to [email protected]. 3 Harley-Davidson® Visa® Free Ride Sweepstakes: No purchase necessary. Sweepstakes ends 12/31/2010. Open to legal U.S. residents age 18 and older. For details, including how to enter for free, see Official Rules at h-dvisa.com. The creditor and issuer of the Harley-Davidson® Visa® Card is U.S. Bank National Association ND. ©H-D 2010. All rights reserved. Harley-Davidson, H-D, Harley, the Bar & Shield logo, Harley Chrome and MotorClothes are among the trademarks of H-D Michigan, LLC. 20 HOG Get Going

6 4 2 7 5

H-D MUSEUM® ACTIVITIES 3 Ride in for Bike Night, 1 8 Stay for First Rumble Bike Night returns to Motor® Bar & Restaurant at the Harley-Davidson Museum in Milwaukee beginning Thursday, May 13. Every Thursday throughout summer, riders are invited to hang out, talk bikes, enjoy weekly food and drink specials at Motor, and more. The action begins at 5PM. On Memorial Day weekend (Saturday, May 29-Monday, May 31), don’t miss “First Rumble,” an exciting kick-start to the riding season. Indoor and outdoor activities include racing dynos, American Motor Drome Wall of Death, and grilling demonstrations by Motor’s own Chef Travis, just for starters. For details, including Museum hours and ticket information, visit www.h-dmuseum.com. 1 2 3 4 2010 U.S. State H.O.G.® Rallies

Whether they’re around the corner or across the country, U.S. State H.O.G. Rallies provide unique opportunities to enjoy new experiences as you travel the United States.

TENNESSEE SOUTH DAKOTA UTAH/COLORADO WYOMING NORTH DAKOTA Photography: Linda Cone Photography: Photography: Brad Fox Brad Photography: Photography: Inc. Festival, World Milwaukee Chattanooga Keystone St. George, UT to Sheridan Fargo Sonoma Historic Laconia H.O.G.® day at Lumberjack Days June 2-5 June 11-12 Durango, CO July 8-10 August 19-22 Motorsports Festival Motorcycle Week Summerfest › Stillwater, Minnesota June 23-26 ILLINOIS NORTH CAROLINA IOWA WASHINGTON › Sonoma, California › Laconia, New Hampshire › Milwaukee, Wisconsin › July 22-25 O’Fallon Charlotte/Matthews CONNECTICUT Waterloo Vancouver to › › June 12-20 › July 1 › June 5-6 www.lumberjackdays.com June 3-5 June 17-19 Groton July 15-17 Kennewick › H-D Demo Rides/ › www.montereyhistoric.com › www.summerfest.com June 24-26 August 20-23 H.O.G. Pin Stop KANSAS OHIO MAINE › www.laconiamcweek.com Liberal Lima INDIANA Carrabassett Valley OREGON June 3-5 June 17-19 Richmond to Madison July 22-24 Pendleton to June 24-26 Coos Bay WISCONSIN/ ALASKA MONTANA August 24-27 5 6 7 8 Kenai MINNESOTA VIRGINIA Missoula June 10-12 Motoring the Chesapeake July 22-24 MISSOURI Mighty Miss June 24-26 Columbia ARIZONA June 20-24 ARKANSAS August 26-28 Williams NEW MEXICO Hot Springs June 10-12 RHODE ISLAND/ Clovis to Santa Fe July 29-31 MICHIGAN MASSACHUSETTS July 1-3 Escanaba KENTUCKY Warwick, RI Photography: Photography: 2009 Larry Kellogg Photography: Dan Luft Photography: DELAWARE/ August 26-29 Bowling Green June 23-24 NEW YORK MARYLAND EAA AirVenture Great American Sturgis Motorcycle Lucas Oil Indy Mile June 10-12 Syracuse Dover, DE For a complete 2010 NEW HAMPSHIRE/ › Oshkosh, Wisconsin Championship Rally AMA Pro Flat Track July 8-10 July 29-31 schedule, log on to VERMONT › July 26-August 1 › Sturgis, South Dakota members.hog.com. Motorcycle Hill Climb Grand National Meredith, NH › August 9-15 › www.airventure.org › Billings, Montana › Indianapolis, Indiana June 23-24 › July 30-August 1 › H-D Demo Rides/ › August 28 › www.billingsmotorcycleclub.us H.O.G. Pin Stop › www.familyevents.com/ › www.sturgismotorcyclerally.com event/123

Dates, locations, and event details subject to change. 22 HOG HOG 23 BTL

obstacles or difficulties you may encounter • The use of sedating medications also go a long way toward fending off fatigue it out of your system. Phone a friend. Smash along the way. on motorcycle trips. a few soda cans. Think happy thoughts. Between the Lines • Untreated sleep disorders It also doesn’t mean you can’t just get on Whatever it takes to get you back to that • Consumption of alcohol your bike and “go exploring.” Riding into the Stay Off the Phone place you were before: Having the time of One group that is particularly at risk is great unknown, after all, is one of the joys of Cell phone use on a motorcycle is your life doing your favorite thing, riding Pay Attention! people who work at night, or work long our sport. But if you’re riding in an unfamiliar problematic for a number of reasons – many your Harley-Davidson® motorcycle. or irregular hours. If you’re a third-shift Staying Alert in the Saddle city, for instance, you can focus your mind of them quite obvious. However, even if you worker who normally sleeps during the day, by taking some of the guesswork out of have a Bluetooth device in your helmet that Keep a Clear Head for instance, and are planning a weekend By BeckyTillman, Rider’s Edge® Regional Manager, Harley-Davidson Rider Services your navigation. That said, it’s best to avoid allows you to talk on the phone while you I hope it goes without saying that drinking motorcycle ride, consider adjusting the times looking at a map or studying your GPS while ride, it’s best to pull over to make a call. and riding don’t mix, but I’ll say it anyway, you’ll be riding. Don’t start riding at an hour you’re riding. Whenever possible, pull over just to be sure: If you’re going to be drinking, when you normally would be going to bed. safely before making important decisions Choose Your Battles don’t ride (or drive). But alcohol and illegal Get at least some sleep first and plan to start about where to turn. Excessive emotions, especially anger, can drugs aren’t the only potential problems. your ride later in the day. blind you and keep you from thinking clearly. Many prescription drugs, or even over-the- Warning signs that you’re becoming over- Know your Motorcycle That’s one reason road rage can be a deadly counter medications, can cause drowsiness. tired while riding include: In situations where you may be riding a enemy of two- and four-wheeled motorists Some even include specific warnings about new bike, renting a motorcycle, or riding • You continually drift off your intended alike – and I don’t just mean the other driving or operating machinery while taking a friend’s, familiarize yourself with the path of travel guy’s rage. As human beings, we tend to them. Warning labels, by their nature, err on machine before you set out, as every • You can’t remember the last few miles think we’re always in the right when there’s the side of caution, and everybody responds motorcycle is a little bit different. • You miss turnoffs and make wrong turns As always, a thorough pre-ride inspection (more than once) is in order, but also take extra care to adjust • You can’t stop yawning Riding a motorcycle is a complex the mirrors, get the feel of the clutch and • You have trouble keeping your eyes on brakes, etc. If the riding position is different task – certainly more so than the road or have moments where you from what you’re used to, get comfortable lose focus driving a car. finding the footpegs when you accelerate from a full stop. Know where the various If you begin to experience any of the hand controls are. And if the bike has a above while riding – or otherwise realize sound system, learn the system – and set that you’ve become too tired to ride – stop. a conflict on the road. But if you’re on a to medications differently. So I’m not going the radio station presets – before you start If nearing the end of the day, find a place to motorcycle facing off against a car, pickup, to tell you to never ride when you’re taking your ride. stop for the night as soon as possible. If you minivan, or truck, it doesn’t matter who’s such a medication. Just make sure you’re Taking a few extra minutes to do these have miles to go before you can stop for an right – because you’re going to lose. familiar with its effects before getting on things is also a great way to help clear your extended period, find a place to pull over, One of the most important riding skills your motorcycle. head of everyday concerns and get your rest, refresh yourself. Take a nap if possible. you can have is the ability to swallow your It’s also important to maintain your energy mind focused on riding. pride and cede the right-of-way to someone Listen to Your Friends levels and stay hydrated. Eat good, nutritious who may not be entitled to it. Motorcycles Finally, pay attention to people you trust foods and drink plenty of fluids during long Stay Rested often don’t get the respect they deserve on when they bring your attention to a potential Studies show that drowsiness is a serious rides. Take frequent breaks to walk around, the road, and if you want to fight the good issue. When we’re tired, or out of sorts, or risk factor contributing to automobile loosen your legs, or even do some simple fight for motorcyclists’ rights when you’reoff (especially) have had too much to drink, we and motorcycle accidents. According to exercises. Wear the proper gear for the your bike, more power to you. It’s a worthy don’t always recognize it in ourselves. When the Foundation, some weather. Stay warm in the cold and cool in cause, and I support you in that effort. (The a friend tells you that you don’t seem quite the heat. But keep in mind that the wind Riding a motorcycle is a complex task – and strategies that anyone can implement. estimates suggest fatigue is a factor in as American Motorcyclist Association, AMA, is a yourself, take their word for it. It’s better to you experience while riding contributes to certainly more so than driving a car. It takes And it starts before you get on your bike. many as 1.2 million accidents per year, or great resource: www.amadirectlink.com.) make a tough decision to postpone your ride dehydration. This is another good reason – in all of your limbs and all of your attention. about 20% of the total. Driving while drowsy But when you’re on the road and in the for another day than it is to make a decision addition to preventing sunburn and guarding And because you’re physically much more Have a Plan is dangerous enough; riding when you’re not heat of the moment, the best thing you can that could wind up keeping you off the road against abrasion in the event of an accident exposed than when you’re behind the wheel, Keeping your mind on the task at hand (that fully awake is another risk level entirely. do – for your own safety and the benefit of for a lifetime. – to keep your skin covered, even when it’s the consequences of losing your focus can is, riding safely) often starts before you even Factors cited by the National Highway riders everywhere – is let it go. That’s often warm out. Remember: The more comfortable be that much more severe. get on your motorcycle, with a good “ride TrafficS afety Administration (NHTSA) that easier said than done, I understand. But it’s Sources: Harley-Davidson Rider’s Edge and you are in the saddle, the easier it is to stay That’s why it’s so important to be both plan.” This doesn’t have to be an official contribute to drowsy driving include: an ability worth developing. Staying angry the “Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s Guide focused on riding safely. physically and mentally prepared every time “document,” but simply a clear picture • Sleep loss can cloud your judgment in a big way. to Motorcycling Excellence.” Riding a motorcycle is a physical activity If you need a few minutes to calm down you ride. There’s no big secret to achieving this in your mind about where you’re going, • Driving patterns (such as driving at night – much more so than driving a car. Staying after an unfortunate incident, pull over goal – all it takes is a few common sense tactics what roads you’re going to take, and what and/or driving lots of miles) in shape with a regular exercise program will somewhere safely, get off the bike, and get

24 HOG HOG 25 Twelve hours. Four riders. One Wonder of the World. And just enough grit and determination to make it there and back by sundown (almost).

Story by Mark-Hans Richer

Photography by Amanda Lee, Shige Ambiru, and John McEnaney

HOG 27 We felt like literal road warriors as our pack fought its way through the industrial chaos of humans, animals, and machines ...

didn’t have much time to talk because whenever we stopped as we passed under a large sign at 9:45AM that read “Agra.” – at what a minute before had been an empty gas station with The gateway to the Taj Mahal was less than five miles away! three lonely attendants – there was instantly a mob of young Yet we wouldn’t arrive until almost noon. men surrounding us. Shige turned on the stereo on his Street Glide. Amanda and a young boy shared the international Battle Ready language of “high five.” And some of us had our first Indian Agra itself would become our greatest obstacle. While the image gas station bathroom experience. of the Taj Mahal conjures visions of peace and grace and beauty We had shared the congested, chaotic road for a couple of hours, and the height of symmetrical human artistry, Agra is a town and were gaining steadily on Agra. The heat was rising. And the that – at least for the four of us trying to get quickly in and out granules of dirt in the air were accumulating – you could chew it. on Harleys – was the exact opposite. We felt like literal road But we were winning at this point – slightly ahead of schedule on warriors as our pack fought its way through the industrial chaos roads better than we expected and able to deal with the challenges of humans, animals, and machines, trying to not lose sight of our lead car in the mess. The first Battle of Agra took almost an hour. We pulled into an open lot about a mile from the Taj, feeling Comparing each others’ rides relieved. Yet we were soon met with our next great challenge – on the way to Agra. herds of young Indian guides fighting their own battle, for our wallets. The attention we caused with our bikes – and by Amanda, Most people told us three to four hours to Agra and five to six hours back. Some said a shock to them as a WOMAN with short blonde hair riding a Harley! it would take us twice as long. As our margin for getting lost was – felt explosive, like anything could go off at any second. We quickly circled back out to the Agra streets and soon pulled into the gate of we were crazy. For some, being told zilch, we hired a car to serve as our lead. a Westernized hotel, where guards customarily checked the hood you’re crazy is the sweetest motivation. We were like that, the I was the lead bike, followed by Amanda and Shige, with John and trunk of the car for bombs. Nobody checked our saddlebags – four of us. Just tell us we’re crazy – please – tell us that something sweeping. Our bikes were a Night Rod® Special, a Nightster,® a guess we looked trustworthy or just completely out of place. we want to do is hard or “unadvisable.” Then watch us. Street Glide,® and a Heritage Softail® Classic – bikes as different In the reception area with its white marble floors, elaborate The crazy thing was this: riding Harley-Davidsons to the Taj as we are. But despite being co-employees yet near-strangers, fabric wall hangings, and multi-thousand dollar jewelry in display Mahal. There and back. One day. the bond was immediate as it often is when people ride Harley® cases, we sat melting on white chairs with our dirt stains, brown Thing was, before this idea we didn’t know each other that well motorcycles together. » or that we shared the same common “crazy gene.” Yes, Amanda, Shige, John, and I were employees of Harley-Davidson – there don’t mess with the bull in India for different reasons to help announce H-D’s entry into We coursed through the still-awakening city and its outer that new market in 2010. Yet we were from radically different suburbs – here defined as unpatrolled roads with rows of small backgrounds and experiences. But as soon as a couple of us stores and dirt sidewalks sometimes covered with plastic bags figured out we’d have a free 12-hour window on what had been a and colorful bits of garbage scavenged by dogs, goats, and the long and busy work trip in New Delhi, the people with the “crazy occasional bull. Vehicles, donkey carts, people, and animals shot gene” started congregating. We wanted to see the real roads and in front of us in simultaneous directions. people outside the conference rooms and hotels. And at the end We quickly learned that the quality of road was less important of those roads was the Taj Mahal. than what was ON the road. As the lead rider, my eyes were Those familiar with it say the road from New Delhi to Agra darting to all the potential hazards, and my various arm or leg (or is not for the timid, and we imagined few had ever done it on both) warnings to Amanda riding behind me were like some mad Harley-Davidson® motorcycles. We had just enough time to get to dance in the air. She didn’t really need much help, but one missed the Taj Mahal and back before catching our flight home to the U.S. bull calf would be all it would take to ruin our day. that evening. This was our only chance – one day – and there was As we got farther from New Delhi, we found our rhythm in 50 no other choice but the choice to not go. Which, for us, wasn’t mph speeds on roads that were as well maintained as the roads really a choice at all. at home. We were making such good time that at our first gas Crowds assemble, not looking at If we planned it right – and none of us had ever done this stop John suggested we snap photos of the smaller temples the temple – looking at our bikes. before so the odds of that were slim – the journey would take we’d seen right off the road. Beyond that brief discussion we

28 HOG HOG 29 lips chugging the ends of Pepsi bottles. Balkishan, our guide, was gone for what seemed like half an hour, then returned suddenly Stepping through to politely inform us that management changed their minds about letting us park there out of concern that our bikes would the red rock gate create unwanted interest. It was now past 11AM. We reminded ourselves that we needed was like stepping to be back in New Delhi before nightfall, and we knew we’d have to fight the second Battle of Agra to do it. New Delhi would surely back in time, and be more crowded at rush hour, so it would take at least five hours to get back, perhaps even longer. But the Taj was “only” a mile away, and we were not giving we time travelers up. We threw ourselves back into the heavy streets of Agra and followed our car again to another nearby gated hotel. Inside arrived in sweaty the gate, after going through the same security check, we met with more accommodating management. We dismounted and Harley T-shirts. gathered our things for the final mile to the Taj Mahal, the four of us with Balkishan, riding in a small gas-powered, three- The stark brilliance of the Taj Mahal is what strikes you first. wheeled taxi toward our dreamed-of destination. The 450-year-old structure somehow looks cleaner and whiter The Taj was built with huge entry gates and plazas that time, and we time travelers arrived in sweaty Harley T-shirts. The than if it were built today. Your mind immediately marvels at surround you and keep the mystical Taj Mahal out of sight until huge round dome and its spires finally came into our sights after the engineering feat if you lean more to the logical or dwells in just the right moment. It teased us, led us on, and made the our long trek. It did not disappoint, it did not let us down as some its spirituality if that’s more your mind’s bent. As we got closer discovery sweeter as Shige, Amanda, John, and I entered. sort of hype or tourist attraction. Instead, it inspired slightly to the main dome, we meandered past gardens and the pools, Stepping through the red rock gate was like stepping back in deeper breaths and widening irises. whose reflection of the perfectly symmetrical white palace and its minarets drew us toward its peaceful presence as we hopelessly tried to capture the aura through our camera lenses. We went inside and found stark simplicity: a white marble tomb made for two caskets of wife and baby that felt all of a sudden intimate for such an imposing external structure. The shade inside the dome added relief. Amanda started to look pale, and, in my unofficial view as a victim of nasty heat stroke 15 years prior, like a person in desperate need of a cool- down and lots of water. The journey had been more rugged than we anticipated, and we were all feeling it. as we smothered them in spicy Indian sauces. Amanda was We exited the main dome onto the broad white marble plaza, starting to look less pale, and we all laughed and talked about which ran parallel to the wide Yamuna River. The river’s banks our experiences as we recharged our spirits despite a small were deeply receded as if in a drought, and local people with overhang of anxiety as time slipped away. water buffalo stood below in the soft mud along the edges of the As we fired up the mechanical music of our Harleys and riverbed. In front of us, two Indian women and two young girls navigated another crowd of local trinket sellers offering entire looked out at the brown river, a beautiful and colorful contrast bags of Taj keychain snow globes at record-low prices, the four coming from their long flowing saris of red and orange and green of us began the second Battle of Agra mentally steeled for the and blue. Unfortunately, even in this timeless place we couldn’t experience. We were not prepared for this battle to be even more afford to forget time. It was now past 1PM, and we still needed to grueling than the first. refuel ourselves even more than the bikes in preparation for our adventure back to New Delhi. Had we been on our original plan, Peace, Love, and Chaos we’d be stands-up by now. Soon the roads of Agra became a literal hell on wheels, the steamy Soon after negotiating the narrow side streets and a few local midday Indian sun baking us as we became sandwiched between children enthusiastically trying to sell us books, postcards, and rickshaws and tall colorful transport trucks. Finally we saw traffic small Taj Mahal keychain snow globes (did it snow here?), we convulse, vehicles from all directions trying to merge into one were walking into the sumptuous lobby of The Oberoi hotel. massive crossroads and squeeze under a large metal This high-end hotel was an oasis for us weary riders, and the on what also became for us a loose red gravel stretch of staff welcomed us warmly even though we weren’t staying there. inclined road. The lunch was a delicious mix of local delicacies like chilled As we inched toward the underpass with all kinds of mango-watermelon soup and welcome familiarities like chicken intersecting vehicles, we couldn’t keep the group together. on wood skewers. The flat breads were flowing around the table Each of us was on their own to fight through to the other side. »

HOG 31 in front of us during “rush hour.” Night fell fast. As we cleared the traffic walls Harley-Davidson® on the outer rings of New Delhi, the location of our Custom Rings bike warehouse seemed so close, but the darkness was by Jostens thick and we encountered some new obstacles. The oncoming headlights attacked us with broad and blinding yellow light as if every driver had their high beams on. The hilly roads we carved had no pavement markings so the traffic guided itself. That is, if the oncoming lanes wanted some of ours, they took it with horns blazing. Then the turn I’d been Take one for a ride today. waiting for finally came. A few twists and turns later,

Uh, I don’t think we’re making the car led us through a Design your ring today at jostens.com/harley-davidson. it back before dark … wooden gate into a small 10-0277 Sold exclusively through participating Harley-Davidson dealerships and dealer websites. courtyard where we could – finally – dismount our bikes. The lead car disappeared ahead of me. I fought to get my own We stretched and looked at each other. The relief and triumph turn to gun the throttle and dance through the crisscrossing in our spirits was shining through the smiles on our dirt-covered human, animal, and mechanical obstacles. I rolled forward with faces as we slapped each other’s back and congratulated one 10-0277 HD HOG Ad_PF.indd 1 4/5/10 6:47 PM a jerk out of first gear to take my chance. another for being crazy. A few pictures later, we packed into the Once I slid through to the other side, I saw the lead car almost car we followed on our trek. We’d have just enough time to get out of view in the clutter ahead. My natural instinct to wait for back to the hotel for a 10-minute shower before transport to the the others conflicted with the greater need to follow the lead and airport and a 15-hour flight back to the United States. No new bike this year? So get to your dealer not get us lost. I slowly wove my bike through to catch up with As we drove, Amanda could finally tell us what happened and improve what you’ve got. Our S100 the car and kept checking my mirrors for the distinctive sight of back in Agra when we couldn’t see her. She’d been hit by a three- “stimulus package” is just the thing. Amanda plowing through the congestion behind me. wheeled tuk-tuk as it cut in front of her, almost lost her footing, Too much time was passing. My mind raced through various but held onto the Nightster refusing to drop it. Luckily the driver potentially nasty scenarios happening back there … was only going about 2 mph. Then she told us about dodging a Finally I saw a single light shimmer through the heat behind sudden monkey, a maneuver I hadn’t seen behind me. As she told me. It gathered speed and came up quickly. It was Amanda. us the story she started laughing, and then we all did. Laughing She yelled something about getting hit but was okay. We didn’t felt good. The monkey was probably laughing about it, too. have time to talk, as we needed to keep moving. By the time As our car approached the hotel in downtown New Delhi, Shige and John caught up, we’d lost another hour in Agra that I took four small Taj Mahal keychain snow globes from my dirt- should have taken 15 minutes by pure distance. We pulled up and sweat-soaked riding jacket. I handed one each to Amanda, behind the car and powered forward, together again in our Shige, and John, and kept one for myself, cheap mementos from staggered formation. an adventure we would likely not ever have again. We shook the After all we’d survived, it was fair to say we were starting to get little domes to loosen the fake snow, and I realized this was an a little cocky on the road. We hit some open stretches in between appropriately weird analogy, since snow falling over its dome was towns and built up speed to try and make up lost time. Bulls certainly as rare a sight as riding Harleys to the Taj Mahal. became big white blurs in the medians. The 150 cc bikes weren’t But perhaps it wouldn’t be in the future. With so many new passing us as much, and the young guys straining to see our bikes riding opportunities opening up in a land as magical as India, Market-leading bike care products that have been around for over from the sidewalks of the towns had to look a lot quicker. anything seems possible. 25 years … even supplied to bike manufacturers themselves. But time was fading with the sun. We tried desperately to (Some of our customers tell us they fooled their friends into stay together, throwing our bikes in front of cars looking to cut To learn more about Harley-Davidson in India, go to thinking their bike was new!) So invest for the future by adding www.harley-davidson.in. value to your ride with S100 Cycle Care products.

32 HOG Available at your Harley-Davidson® Dealer. Call 203-488-6569 for a free catalog or visit www.s100.com. Story and Photography by Mike Zimmerman

t was 32 degrees outside when I left Milwaukee ISaturday morning but otherwise a beautiful day for rid- ing: bright, clear, invigorating. A far cry from what Paul had endured the day before – riding from Traverse City to Flint, Michigan to attend a wedding, he had a four-hour ride in a cold, hard rain. Feeling mischievous, I decided to tweak him a little with a text: “Clear here but very cold. Decided to take car instead. I’ll just take pictures of you on your motorcycle.” He didn’t find it very amusing. Paul is a classic Harley-Davidson success story. He started riding in 2001, instantly fell in love with the whole lifestyle, and within a few years was director of the H.O.G. chapter in Traverse City. Since stepping down two years ago, however, some of the zip has gone out of his riding life. As for me, I was on the heels of a medical scare that had me questioning whether continued riding was even an option. I’d been put on medication and advised to avoid “high-risk activities.” So when I invited Paul to tag along on an October ride to explore the Ohio River Valley, after taking a moment to mentally rearrange his schedule, he said, “I think we both need this. Let’s ride.”

Starting Slowly I knew this trip was going to be different for me when we stopped for Sunday lunch in Marietta, Ohio, a small town on the Ohio River. Rather than grabbing a quick bite at a gas station for my midday “meal,” Paul took the suggestion of our tour guide at the Ohio River Museum and led me to the Marietta Brewing Company downtown. »

34 HOG HOG 35 information was provided, but we kept going anyway. The road wound along the river through fertile farmland, with early- October color just starting to emerge in the foliage. Paul was impressed by the height of the corn, which was taller than his fully extended arm (he’s about 6'-4"). Having grown up in central Illinois, I was less impressed and joked to him that in the Land of Lincoln we consider eight-foot corn to be a “dwarf” variety. THE WORLD’S We doubled back when we hit the closure and didn’t mind at all having to ride that same stretch twice. LARGEST RIDE… RACK’EM UP. ® HOTEL CHAIN talk of the town By Monday, I was starting to like Paul’s way of traveling. I began to expect he would chat people up wherever we went. No stop was ever quick; no meal hurried. No waitress ever escaped providing a recommendation from the menu or of the road ahead – or telling us her life story. H.O.G.® Members Receive There was Eva at the Hi-Ways Family Restaurant in Williamstown, Kentucky, who convinced us to try our eggs More with Best Western with goetta (pronounced “getta”), a local chopped pork delicacy Join Best Western and Harley-Davidson’s of German origin. There was the Harley®-riding owner of the Buckeye Dairy Bar, an independent hot dog/burger stand exclusive free reward program, with a new mini-golf course on site. There was the vegetarian Best Western Ride RewardsSM waitress at the wing joint in Indiana, who helped me convince the exclusive free rewards program Business was light in the early afternoon, and we were Paul that it’s perfectly acceptable to order a dozen Buffalo designed just for Harley-Davidson® seated in the back room where a lone guitarist/vocalist was wings as a dinner entrée. Enthusiasts! playing. When he took a break, Paul invited him to sit with us. And then there were Reggie and Summer … We talked. Ate lunch. Enjoyed the atmosphere. And by the time After our run-in with the closure, we realized that the As a H.O.G.® member you’ll receive: we left, in my mind, we were way behind “schedule” – even roads leading to and from the Ohio River Scenic Byway were though we weren’t really on one. generally much more spectacular than the byway proper. So • Automatic upgrade to Our plan, if you could call it that, was to explore the Ohio we explored the side roads, while keeping the byway as the Platinum Elite status River Scenic Byway, which begins in East Liverpool, Ohio, and backbone of our route. • Platinum members receive runs nearly 950 circuitous miles to the Mississippi River in That’s how we found ourselves in rural Kentucky, south of 15% bonus points on every stay Cairo, Illinois. The way I normally approach these trips is to try Cincinnati, east of Louisville, well off the beaten path, and on • Save 10% or more with the to see as much as possible in the time available, in this case the best roads of the trip. “It’s like riding a roller coaster!” Paul three days. But here it was already 2PM on Day 1, and we had raved. I agreed, pointing out they’re just as fun to ride as any Harley-Davidson Rate just gotten our first look at the Ohio River. mountain road I’ve been on. The ride from Zanesville to Marietta had been fantastic, Somewhere along OH 22 – at its intersection with 845 – we You’ll also enjoy additional benefi ts however; which is good, because Paul needed some cheering came upon a small wooden building with a sign reading “Sweet » such as a wipe down towel at check-in up. He had arrived Saturday evening with a bad cold, and access to a cleaning station for your apparently the result of his previous day’s miserable ride. motorcycle when you stay at one of our “Every time I stopped – every single time – somebody said Rider-Friendly® hotels. We look forward to me, ‘You sure must like riding your motorcycle to be out in to seeing you on your next ride! this weather!’” Sunday’s weather was much better, and Paul’s mood warmed with the air. When we stopped in Morgan to have a look around, Paul reflected on the beautiful, winding ride: Enroll and book today “That stretch of road we were just on … that’s why you and I ride motorcycles.” BESTWESTERN.COM/HOG Leaving Marietta, however, we were somewhat disappointed to realize the official “Scenic Byway” wasn’t quite what we 1.888.BW2BIKE (1-888-292-2453) expected. It was pretty, but this four-lane stretch wasn’t FOR SEASONAL OFFERS AND PROMOTIONS VISIT BWRIDER.COM particularly interesting or exciting. Things improved considerably as we headed west, but just as the road started to get really good, at OH 124 past Little Hocking, we ran into a sign announcing a closure three miles ahead. No detour *Number of Rider-Friendly® properties may fl uctuate throughout the year. Each Best Western® hotel is independently owned and operated. Best Western and the Best Western marks are service marks or registered service marks of Best Western International, Inc. ©2010 Best Western International, Inc. All rights reserved. Harley-Davidson, Harley, H-D, the Bar and Shield logo and H.O.G. are among the trademarks of H-D Michigan, LLC. Hotel photos shown, left to right: Best Western Chena River Lodge, Fairbanks, Alaska; Best Western Half Moon 36 HOG Bay Lodge, Half Moon Bay, California; Best Western Tempe by the Mall, Tempe, Arizona; Best Western Coconut Waikiki Hotel, Honolulu, Hawaii.

HOG Magazine Ad 3-02.indd 1 4/6/10 4:32 PM “It’s like riding a roller coaster!” Of course, Paul chatted up the waitress and asked her to direct us to the President Paul raved. I agreed, pointing out Madison Motel, which I had been advised offered a great view of the river. With her they’re just as fun to ride as any directions confirmed by Paul’s GPS unit, we mountain road I’ve been on. followed them dutifully and found … the Riverboat Inn. Seems the hotel has changed Owen Country Store.” Inside, Paul ordered us some hot coffee hands a few times over the years, the Riverboat Inn being the and greeted the women running the place. “Who is this ‘Sweet latest incarnation. The view from the back, however, was as Owen’ guy?” he said cheerily. “And is he really all that sweet?” good as promised. “You’re in Sweet Owen,” came the reply. “It’s not a person, it’s All trip we had been hearing reports of freakishly cold the name of the community.” (Just don’t bother looking for it temperatures and a massive cold front on the way. Fifteen on the map.) inches of October snow had fallen in Wyoming and was We both got a good laugh out of that, and before I knew it, working its way east. For three days on (and off) the river, we we were sitting down with Reggie Taggart, the proprietor, and had gotten quite lucky, with temperatures in the 50s or even Summer, her daughter, looking at pictures. The store’s history 60s, no rain, and occasional sunshine. The first hint of fall dates back to 1951, but Reggie and her husband opened what colors filled the trees. This is what we wanted to remember, I’m a woman. a daughter. a sIster. was essentially an all-new store – with lunch counter – in 2009. not a battle against freezing rain. So we made the decision Unfortunately, we were too early for lunch, or Paul almost after lunch to leave the river and start heading north to try certainly would have made sure we sampled the fare. Or maybe to beat the weather home. a mother. a FrIend. a FIghter. a rIder. not, what with that morning’s goetta still weighing heavily in That night we reflected on our journey. Paul had been right: our stomachs (sorry, Eva). We had both needed this. Paul’s miserable start was a distant I’m a breast cancer survIvor. Kentucky, of course, is known for its whisky distilleries, so memory (at least it was to me), replaced by images of hilly, we made a point of picking up a souvenir-in-a-bottle. Why we winding roads; a huge coal barge on the river, steaming past ® ® ended up choosing perhaps the most widely available brand us within a stone’s throw; a spooky 200-year-old cemetery IntroducIng the harley-davIdson motorclothes on the market instead of something with more local flavor, I’m in Augusta, Kentucky; ancient-looking black barns filled PInk label collectIon For women. still not sure. But we made a pact: to keep the bottles sealed with drying tobacco; the Sweet Owen Country Store; more until one of us dies, so the survivor can drink a toast to the unrestrained dogs than we’d ever seen in our lives; and the other … or until we ride together again, whichever comes first. only person on the whole trip Paul didn’t want to talk to: the woman in Kentucky who yelled at us when we stopped to take fInIShIng Strong pictures of their barn. Our final “official” stop turned out to be in Madison, Indiana, “Hey … HEY … HEY!! What’re ya doin’ up thar!?” on Tuesday, where we walked around downtown in search Just taking a ride, ma’am. Because we can. And because there’s of the perfect lunch spot. At first we were attracted to a place no better way to remind yourself what’s really important in life. On a Harley-Davidson® motorcycle you’re never alone. The Pink Label Collection is gear and apparel with a purpose. A portion of the proceeds advertising “Good Eats.” But then we saw another place, No matter how many times you have to grit your teeth, force a from the sales of this collection will be donated to Breast Cancer Network of Strength,® a support network for those touched by breast cancer. The Downtowner, boasting of its “Great Food.” Good eats vs. smile, and pretend you really do like riding your motorcycle in Show your Support with the harley-DaviDSon® pink label ColleCtion. never alone. Visit www.harley-davidson.com/pinklabel great food – our search was over. 40-degree rain. Pictured here: Tia, I used to hope for the day where I’d forget I had breast cancer. Now I celebrate it as a reminder to live life to the fullest. 38 HOG Harley-Davidson, H-D and the MotorClothes logo are among the trademarks of H-D Michigan, LLC. ©2010 H-D. firsthand by John Sandberg

avid Fidler will be the first to tell you that his Altogether, the evolutionary changes witnessed from 2007- 2005 CVO™ Ultra Classic® motorcycle looks nearly 2009 delivered a revolutionary transformation of the Harley® Didentical to the 2010 version he test rode at Daytona, Touring line. And to get a handle on it, we spent a couple but it doesn’t ride like it. Beneath the similarly iconic styling days at the H-D® Demo Rides at Daytona Bike Week, talking that extends back to the 1980 FLT Tour Glide™ model are two with owners of 2006 and older Touring bikes who had just very different motorcycles. experienced a 2010 model. Here’s what they had to say: In fact, every 2008 and older Harley® Touring model is significantly different from its modern counterparts … Engine and Transmission with even greater differences on 2006 and older models. “Finally, a bagger with balls!” exclaimed Jim St. John, a 2003 The Touring line began its transformation with a FLHT owner, after getting off the new CVO™ Ultra Classic.® transmission – the 6-Speed Cruise Drive® – and corresponding Robert Holland concurred: “Get on the gas and it’s instant Twin Cam 96™ engine in 2007. Over the next couple years, acceleration up to 60 mph … and there are still two gears Electronic Throttle Control, Brembo brakes with available remaining,” he said. ABS, six-gallon fuel tank, increased electrical charging “The motor is powerful and smooth for a stocker,” capacity, Advanced Audio System, and GPS navigation commented Don Obernuefemann, owner of a 2001 Road systems followed. King® Classic and 2006 Electra Glide,® and who had just Then came the chassis redesign in 2009. sampled a new Road Glide® Custom. With a longer wheelbase, new frame, and increased Fidler, owner of a 2005 CVO™ Electra Glide,® was one of payload capacity, the new Touring chassis ushered in a several who commented on the quiet operation of the latest veritable renaissance of ride quality and handling. generation 6-Speed tranny. »

HOG 41 Chassis ride QualiTy and handling Touring “The new chassis is amazing!” raved Fidler. “I was [also] impressed with the Brembo ABS brakes. They’re awesome during hard braking.” “It feels solid,” said St. John. 2007 Introduction ofTe the TWin Cam 96™ powertrain delivers eight C “I noticed the new frame,” said David Deguzis, owner of a 2000 Road percent increase in torquehnology over the Twin Timeline Cam 88.® Glide® model. “It has a nice planted feel.” Introduction of the 6- Holland was to the point: “Handling was excellent.” reducesBeacons top-gear rpm by 11 percent. of independence Bells and WhisTles eFi s While the engine, transmission, and chassis represent the meat and T speed Cruise drive® transmission andard on all models. Introduction of advan potatoes of the newest Touring models, “luxury” items are the sweet an audionever and infotainment system that plays most audiofade formats desserts.into Nearly all the demo the riders commented onnight. them. and the ability to add XM Satellite Radio, CB, rider/passenger intercom. “The sound system is much improved,” noticed David Lamphier.

TWin Cam 110™ powertrain, with 115 ft.-lbs. of torque, introduced Two features of the CVO™ Ultra Classic® model received the highest Ced a on CVO™ models. praise, undoubtedly because of a March cold snap that produced udio s temperatures in the 40s: the heated seat and grips. ys When asked what he liked best about the 2010 Electra Glide® Ultra Tem by Harman/Kardon,® 2008 Limited motorcycle, Steve Strader focused on the creature comforts: aBs on Brembo high-performance brakes an option on all Touring models. “The gadgets, radio, electronic cruise, and heated grips.”

6-gallon Fuel T The CompleTe paCkage In comparing their 2006 or older to the latest 2010 eleCTroniC Thro with inside-the-bar wire routing. models, many riders summed up the differences succinctly. The word ank adds 20 percent greater fuel capacity. “smooth” was used over and over again in reference to the engine, Cruise ConTrol available on all models. transmission, suspension system, chassis, seats, and overall experience. TTle ConTrol replaces mechanical cables Said David Lamphier, “Better balanced, more power, overall handling isola is great, and the sound system is much improved.” Ted drive s “A great way to go many, many miles in comfort,” added his

2009 wife, Susanne. ne ys W Touring ChassisTem increases reduces gross noise vehicle and vibration. weight rating by “The overall package looks and sounds the same as my 2005 CVO™ 101 lbs. (and 15 lbs. more cargo capacity); front end geometry change; longer wheelbase for greater highway comfort; new swingarm and model, but that’s where it stops,” said Fidler. chassis; new engine mount system reduces powertrain vibration at idle. TesT yourselF Ten-mile demo rides don’t highlight all of the other recent changes to larger, resized Wheels and tires. the Touring models, like increased luggage capacity, GPS navigation

Touring-speCiFiC Tires designed by Dunlop.® systems, shorter antennas, and the like. Which is one reason H-D® Authorized Rentals (www.h-drentals.com) has become one of the most redesigned exhaus popular ways to experience a new Harley-Davidson® motorcycle. For as little as a hundred bucks,* riders can spend a day riding a new shor Touring model (or nearly any new Harley® model) to get a more complete Ty dual anTennas replace the previous “whip” antennas. comparison to their own motorcycle. It’s the perfect way for you to T sys 2010 experience the difference a few years has made in the revolution of heliC Tem Harley-Davidson® motorcycles. transmission delivers smoother operation. al- CuT FiFTh gear in the 6-Speed Cruise Drive® TWin Cam 103™ debuts on the Electra Glide® Take a super ride Ultra Limited. Anyone who test rides a new Harley-Davidson® motorcycle by June 30 will be entered in a drawing to win a Harley-Davidson® The only way to ride through Mother Nature without Father Time busting your chops is with the Harley-Davidson® Luminator . 3M™ Scotchlite™ Reflective Material piping and motorcycle of their choice, as well as an exclusive trip to Milwaukee graphics reflect 1,500 times brighter than white at night and are visible from up to 500 feet away to customize their ride with the help of the Willie G. Davidson in clear low-light or nighttime riding conditions. It’s safe to say that voice inside you won’t be Design Studio team. Daily drawings for a $500 H-D™ Gift Card will silenced by the setting sun. See it at your local Harley dealer or visit harley-davidson.com/360 also be a part of the “Super Ride” promotion. See your local dealer and www.h-d.com/superride for details. A true beAcon of independence *Rates can vary significantly by location, model, rental period, etc.

42 HOG © 2010 H-D. Harley-Davidson, H-D and the MotorClothes logo are among the trademarks of H-D Michigan, LLC. never fAdes into the night.

I t has become t h e iconic image of the H a r l e y - D a v i d s o n

M u s e u m ® : the magnificent “ H i l l C limber” monument that

d ominates the courtyar d . A gift from the Davi d s o n

f a m i l y t o H a r l e y ® r i d ers everywhere, it has ma d e a

lasting impression on h u n D r e D S o f t h o u s a n D S o f v i s i t o r s

f r o m a r o u n d t h e w o r l d since the M useum opene d i n 2 0 0 8 .

The statue consists of some 500 pieces of bronze, formed and fused with fire by experienced and gifted hands. The artist, sculptor Jeff Decker, is more complex still. Born in 1966 to teenage parents in Southern California, Decker’s father lived and breathed the local passions of the era: fast cars and motorcycles. Growing up in such a hotbed, Decker assumed every family lived the racing life. He knew no other way. When his interests turned to art as a young boy (his kindergarten teacher first noticed his talent), he focused on automotive themes as subject matter. As he tells it, he didn’t really have a choice. Ultimately, the mechanical nature of cast bronze sculpture drew him as an open stretch of asphalt draws a rider. He calls the Hill Climber monument his “masterwork,” a work of passion, the result of the shared vision of Willie G. Davidson and himself. Fittingly, he values the relationships he forged in the process more than he values the work itself. He is a multi-faceted man with a fascinating story. One best told in his own words – and through the eyes of another artistic legend of the motorcycle world, photographer Michael Lichter.

Jeff Decker on family influences

“[My father] is truly a savant. Not formally educated to the fullest but with an encyclopedic knowledge of cars, cars that are of his specific interest. He was my best friend and my mentor and my hero. “When he was racing a ’32 Ford with Ardun heads, it was rare race equipment, but it had no esoteric value. It wasn’t hanging on the walls in collections in Don Orosco’s house; it didn’t show up in Hemmings as a collectible item; it was

just used race equipment. You had to love it. It didn’t make Brautigam Mark Photography: »

46 HOG HOG 47 Jeff Decker: Man of Metal

“… to be a true artist, economic sense. So he had perhaps the largest flathead speed O n the nature of his art equipment collection in the world, which at the time was a junk collection. Now, of course, it’s museum worthy. But at “Because I was always in my dad’s shadow, I tried to express I d on’t think balance the time it was, ‘Why collect this shit?’ myself in a different way, which was art … and my subject “The other side of , my mother’s side, was a matter was naturally mechanical. I don’t think I ever chose is a part o F your life. disturbed group. My mom’s sisters dated Hell’s Angels, they my path, it just came to me. I was groomed to be what I am. served prison terms, they died of addictions. And so I saw I’m not original, I’m not special, I’m not unique. I’m just Y ou have to be a these girls dating Hell’s Angels, and I thought they were the simply what I was supposed to be when I grew up. neatest guys on the planet. But my dad [told me to] stay away “The nature of the lost-wax process is the only form of art from these people. I was like, how could you not like these that is truly mechanical. You need to learn mold-making and s c r e w e d - u p, c o m p u l s i v e guys? And he would go, ‘They collect junk!’ And so I had this welding and casting and metallurgy and patination, and embedded into me early. all these different things – which, to me, are so much like i n d i v i d u a l t o e x p r e s s “We would go to a swap meet, every single weekend, or painting a car, rebuilding a motor, massaging a steel panel. to races, every single weekend. And it was not until I was And so I saw the likeness of this high art form to what I was a teenager did it dawn on me that that was not a normal familiar with. yourself well.” practice in life.” “I sculpt my figures in clay and my motorcycles in wax. Two reasons: The wax I can get in a circular form, in rods or squares, triangles, whatever. And because motorcycles are made out of geometric and machined-looking parts, it lends itself better to the sculpting of the bike. Then when I cast the piece I have two textures. [The motorcycle] is more smooth in surface, hence looking more machined. The figure, the rider, is clay, which is more organic. And that is exactly what I want.” [Both approaches ultimately result in a wax figure that is dipped repeatedly into a ceramic slurry, forming a mold. The wax melts away as the mold is fired in a kiln – hence the term “lost-wax process.” Molten bronze is then poured into this ceramic mold.]

O n collecting

“If you look at the great, great artists of the past … they were obsessive-compulsive collectors. … Without criticizing other artists, to me to be a true artist, I don’t think balance is a part of your life. And what manifests in my ‘sickness’ is my collecting. You have to be a screwed-up, compulsive individual to express yourself well. “I’ve seen enough Evos, and I’ve seen enough Knuckleheads, frankly. I want to see the stuff that you only see once or twice in a lifetime. And my art and what I do provide a comfortable living so I really don’t want a hundred Knuckleheads. I want one bike that’s worth a hundred Knuckleheads. When there’s a bike where you gotta wait for a guy to die to get; or you gotta bug a guy so long, where you got a decade invested in your relationship before you can get it out of him. I don’t sleep at night thinking about bikes. It’s really a bad obsession. “So what do I collect? I collect human beings. I collect stories. And I’m lucky to get a piece of them when they go away. Provenance is extremely important to me.” »

48 HOG HOG 49 WARNING NEVADA JUST MIGHT TAKE YOUR BIKE’S BREATH AWAY.

o n s t a n l e y w anlass, frien D a n D m e n t o r even be converted for street use. It was strictly a hybrid built for racing. “He’s the foremost automotive sculptor in the world, really is “Willie walked in, about a year or two before the Museum … the first guy to recognize the automobile as a worthy subject he looked at the piece and said, “Okay, we want one of these.” for art. … He’s just the salt of the earth, a national treasure. He said the Museum’s for sure, and the Davidson family “I feel like I’m Jack and the beanstalk. I take my art out, and wants to donate something to this Museum. He said let’s go my wife is enraged when I come home without cash but with all out, let’s go life-size. And then I think, you know, life-size another motorcycle. And Stan is the same way. When you see is just not that magnificent. So I came back and said let’s do his work, you’ll clearly see his influence [in mine].” ‘heroic,’ let’s do life-and-a-half. “It was really a deal that took place between [me and] o n w i l l i e g . D a v i D s o n a n D t h e g e n e s i s o f Nancy and Willie Davidson; it was a gift from the Davidsons t h e h a r l e y - D a v i D s o n m u s e u m ® m o n u m e n t and from me. I made that bronze as big and as powerful as Breathe it all in as you follow the blacktop past incredible natural wonders like Cathedral Gorge possible on a budget, just because I knew that it would be my State Park, jaw-dropping scenic beauty of Red Rock Canyon and historic landmarks in Genoa. “One time I had done this piece called ‘By the Horns,’ masterwork. I really didn’t want to make any money. And it essentially a three- or four-foot model of what is the Hill was all done on a handshake. I put my whole life on hold to It’s easy to see why a ride in Nevada is a breath of fresh air. Climber piece. A 1930 DAH hill climber, only six exist. (I have finish that thing … and I don’t regret a moment of it. one but the Museum doesn’t.) They’re really rare. To me they “[The Davidsons and I] are lifelong friends. A beautiful Download the NEVADA RIDES GUIDE and order your Nevada Visitor were the quintessential purpose-built factory hill climber. relationship came out of that bronze. Far more than the FREE … The tank is absolutely one-off, the heads are one-off, the sculpture itself was the relationship that we built and the Package at TravelNevada.com/HD or call 800.370.3927. frame is purpose-built, the forks are purpose-built. This is memories we share.” not a motorcycle that was made for street use. And it couldn’t

50 HOG

HOG09_NOV09.indd 1 8/28/09 9:34 AM RIDES

$100

Epic Adventures Don’t Require Epic Dollars Floored by Daytona By John Sandberg

Daytona Bike Week … been there, done that, got the T-shirt. Finally, I rode a borrowed Wide Glide® that cost nothing more It’s startling how much is free, and what can break the bank, But my previous foray had no self-imposed budget. Those were than the gas I burned. The offer came from a friend who knew the at Bike Week. For instance, by filling out a few questionnaires, heady times, pre-bubble-burst, market crash, and all that junk. circumstances of my trip and offered the use of the bike. Which I got a free T-shirt and Harley-Davidson fleece blanket. Conversely, So this time I did Daytona on the cheap. just goes to show that when you need a little help, your friends two drinks in the hotel bar set me back $18! Employing skills I’ve learned from a lifetime of frugality, I rode, lend a hand. The lesson? Keep good friends and buy beer at a liquor store. ate, watched, and drifted through Bike Week 2010 by emphasizing Total cost: $114. True, I exceeded my budget, but not so much I realized a more meaningful lesson on the second day while the economical rather than the extravagant, stretching a single that I needed a government bailout. And if you consider the MDA agonizing about whether to buy an event T-shirt: Things don’t Ben Franklin (and change) over three days. (Yes, I paid for airfare, raffle pin and Girl Scout cookies “charitable deductions,” I’m necessarily make me happy. Experiences do. And events like but let’s assume this is aimed at riders who live in the area.) down to $106. And here are just some of the returns I got for Daytona and Sturgis serve up all sorts of free experience. Here’s how I did it: my investment that don’t show up on the balance sheet: From now on, I’ll skip the T-shirts, sleep on floors, and focus First, I avoided the largest money pit of most trips: paying for • Hung out on Main Street and Beach Street, soaking in the on the best things in life. accommodations. While camping is my preferred method of cheap sights, sounds, and smells of Bike Week sleep, temps in the low 30s pushed me to Plan B: freeloading • Rode every 2010 model Harley-Davidson® motorcycle the floor of a friend’s hotel room. Sure, this means I’ll return the at the Demo Ride area The $100 Challenge favor someday. But it also meant warm showers and free coffee • Drag “raced” a modified V-Rod® at the H-D display If you have a $100 Ride story to share, we want to hear it. If it in Daytona. Nice! on Beach Street, losing both times appears in HOG® magazine, we’ll even foot the bill – in the form Second, I saved some serious jing through inexpensive eating. • Attended multiple bike shows/parties of a $100 Harley-Davidson™ Gift Card. Keep your story to 750 Instead of steak-and-egg breakfasts and seafood dinners, I made • Witnessed the Daytona 200 motorcycle race words or less, including a list of your expenses. We also need a couple grocery store runs, skipped two lunches, and topped the (by “sharing” a friend’s event pass) photography from your adventure, including a photo of you. tank with a few burritos. So instead of coming home five pounds • Rode 300-plus miles E-mail your submission with “$100 Rides” as the subject line to heavier, I actually lost one. Bonus! I even treated myself to one • Shook hands with Willie G. Davidson [email protected]. Italian sausage manwich from a local vendor on Beach Street • Shared gut-busting laughter with good friends and one box of peanut butter Girl Scout cookies. • Met dozens of riders from all over the world Third, I purchased no souvenirs, T-shirts, LED light kits, dyno • Marveled at Destination Daytona H-D tests, accessories, or anything else that didn’t somehow fuel me, • Dipped my boot into the Atlantic Ocean my bike, or my experiences. I have enough crap I don’t use.

52 HOG HOG 53 A Beauty of a Bagger I’ve built hot rods as a hobby my whole life, but a couple years ago, my wife, Tracy, and I decided to try our hand at building a – one that’s practical. If the judges at the Harley-Davidson Ride In Show at Daytona are any indication, we must have done something they liked, as our bike won first prize in the “Bagger” category Enthusiasts in the 2010 competition, much to our surprise. We’re from Louisville, Kentucky, but our bike got its start right across the street from where we won our prize; we bought it in January 2008 at the Destination Daytona dealership right there on Beach Street. We left the bike there to have whitewall tires installed, and flew back three months later to pick it up and enjoy Bike Week on our new Black Ultra Classic® Electra Glide.® Our maiden voyage was a wonderful non-stop ride straight to Key West. Riding home was a different story. No sooner had we left Daytona than rain and wind set in. Lots of it. When we stopped for fuel in Jacksonville, we found out we’d just missed two tornadoes. The next morning in Georgia there was no sign of rain, but the temperature had dropped to 28 degrees. We layered up and headed on our way only to get caught in a sleet storm. At this point, good reasoning finally overruled determination (ignorance), and we rented a box truck in Atlanta. It had the nicest heater! We rode the bike about 6,000 miles that summer, then tore it apart for the winter. We painted it, ditched the whitewalls, added a custom 21-inch front wheel, 360 brakes, extended saddlebags, and more. I’m proud to say Tracy did all the fiberglass work, including the saddlebag filler panels, which were especially tricky to make. If you look for us at the 2011 Ride In Show, you may not recognize the bike. We tore it down again, ordered some parts, and fabricated a few new ones ourselves. We’re raking the front end, stretching the gas tank, and adding a 23-inch front wheel for starters. We always tell people, “We like making stuff – and we really like it when it works!” And so far, our 2008 Ultra Classic is working beautifully. We hope you agree.

Mike and Tracy Hood Louisville, Kentucky

54 HOG HOG 55 Enthusiasts

What’s in a Name? Delivery Pending

Given the last name I was provided with, there really was no I’ve had my Nightster® for a couple years, and it’s my first other choice than to go with Harley-Davidson® equipment Harley.® I frequently use it to commute to work and on during my riding years. I’ve ridden a 1980 Sportster® 883; weekends for short trips with my wife, Adriana (when a 2003 100TH Anniversary Fat Boy®; a 2005 Sportster 1200; we add a pillion seat). She’s thought about learning to a 2006 Road King® Classic; and my latest purchase, a 2009 Road ride, but for now she loves being a passenger. We had Glide,® with which I’m in love. Now, since I brought up the “L” to suspend the trips some time ago as a result of her word, I must include my wonderful wife of 15 years, Jacqueline, pregnancy, and later the birth of our daughter, Sofia. pictured here on the 2003 Fat Boy. After purchasing the 1200 This photo was taken the day before she was born. back in 2005 for her Christmas present, I was cleaning up the Nevertheless, we’re looking forward to taking it up again Fat Boy one day and she took it for a ride. She hasn’t been off in the near future. it since! This picture was taken during this year’s Bike Week in Daytona. The Fat Boy has thousands of dollars in upgrades, but Hernán and Adriana Tello Santiago, Chile my wife is still all original – and both are improving with age.

Wayne Davidson Fernandina Beach, Florida

Merry in Maryland

This photo was taken near the end of a nine-day, seven- state round-trip to Rhode Island we took from our home Old Glory in West Virginia last August. We stopped off U.S. 219 in A lot of unpleasant things seem to be going on in the western Maryland near Deep Creek Lake and the Wisp Ski world, but every time I look at this photo (taken by a Resort. Beth is riding her 2001 black and totally chromed- fellow rider outside Kalispell, Montana) it brings a smile out Heritage Softail® Classic, and I’m on my 2007 cherry to my face. To be in America and on a Harley motorcycle Heritage Softail Classic. We ride wherever and whenever we is what it’s all about! It helps remind me of the good and can – just point us in a direction, and we’ll plan to go there! focus less on the things I can’t do anything about.

John and Beth Vuolo Scott Driver Hinton, West Virginia Seattle, Washington

Prodigal Dad Crisis Averted I have to blame my son for getting me back into riding. He let me ride one of his older bikes two years ago, and When my best friend turned 40 three months before I did, I’d forgotten how good it feels to ride. I’ve owned a few he told his wife he needed a Harley motorcycle to make metric bikes over the years but never a Harley‑Davidson it through his mid-life crisis. I didn’t quite understand motorcycle. To make a long story short, I heard of this bike his “crisis,” but then again, I never made it to that point – for sale locally and just had to check it out. Even though thanks to my beautiful wife, Jamie! Two months before the owner didn’t keep it as clean as I would have liked, my Big 4-0, she bought me my first Harley: a 1997 Heritage I could see there was a great looker underneath the Springer® in mint condition. This photo was taken on rust and grime. After a full eight hours of cleaning and one of our many weekend getaways to nearby Texas Hill polishing, I was amazed at how good it looked. I’ve added a Country on Ranch Road 335. few things here and there, and now my 2000 Heritage suits Her 40th birthday is coming up next year – me to a “T.” My wife fell in love with riding, as well, so I guess I better start shopping for her Harley! After all, life we’re now in the process of getting her a bike of her own. is too short for a mid-life crisis. I guess I shouldn’t blame my son – but thank him instead!

Greg Otterman Randee Rooks San Antonio, Texas Bath, New York

56 HOG HOG 57 Enthusiasts

sCrew It, let’s fly!

Some H-D® enthusiasts around the world go to great lengths to show their support of Harley-Davidson even though they’re not able to ride while deployed. Here’s a picture of me flying my F-15E Strike Eagle through the skies above Afghanistan, while proudly displaying my Harley flag. I have a 2002 Fat Boy with every piece of chrome available, which my wife and I ride every chance we get. This fall I plan to have it custom painted to match my jet! capTain Bill “QuaTro” JoHnson, usaF FayetteviLLe, arKansas

IT’S NOT JUST A JOB IT’S KEEPING

weddIng CruIse My wife, Christine, and I got married in Las Vegas last September A LEGEND ALIVE and decided to take our brand-new Electra Glide on a “break-in” ride for our honeymoon. Starting at our home in Long Beach, California, we rode to Vegas, where we met our whole family and tied the knot at Caesar’s Palace. Then we packed up the bike and rode to Zion National Park for three days of riding through the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen. From there, we headed to the amazing Bryce Canyon National Park; the Grand Canyon; and Sedona, Arizona. Again, because of my city-boy upbringing in Brooklyn, New York, this nature stuff was truly inspiring. Work on something you believe in. It was 19 degrees when we left Zion (boy, did those heated seats come in handy!), and passing through Flagstaff it started to Become a Harley-Davidson technician at MMI. snow. But through it all, my wife, who’s new to motorcycling, was a real trouper. Get hands-on training and learn about everything from basic engine theory ® I’ve been riding Harleys all my life (I also own a V-Rod,® to Screamin’ Eagle performance. Surround yourself with people like you which I love), and I never thought I would own a “couch,” but I’m who know that it’s more than just a motorcycle. And do it all at the only surprised it’s such a wonderful ride. Thank you, Harley-Davidson, technical school in the country that provides a 100% Harley-Davidson for making such a fine product. approved program and nationwide graduate placement. 2844 W. Deer Valley Rd. • Phoenix, Arizona 85027 9751 Delegates Dr. • Orlando, Florida 32837 sTan Mark sHer LOnG BeacH, caLiFOrnia For more information, call 800-334-6156 or visit MMITech.edu/Harley-Davidson

Programs vary by location. Financial aid and VA benefi ts available to those who qualify. VA benefi ts not available at all campuses. *MMI cannot guarantee employment. Motorcycle Mechanics Institute is a division of Universal Technical Institute. MMI’s Orlando campus is a branch of 58 HOG HOG 59 MSC: 800/819 Universal Technical Institute of Phoenix, Inc. ©2008 H-D. Harley, H-D, Harley-Davidson and the Bar & Shield logo are among the trademarks of H-D Michigan, Inc.

HDEnthusiast_Summer08.indd 1 4/29/08 1:02:03 PM Enthusiasts

“foxy rIder” – then and now

According to an account in the December 1987 edition of Easyriders magazine, Debbie Venus-Fenrich’s first Harley came with certain strings attached. That is, it came down to a choice between indoor plumbing and a 1949 FL. Is there anybody reading this who doesn’t think she made the right decision? This was, of course, back in the day when women riding their own motorcycles were looked upon with certain suspicion. Which meant Debbie and the bike she lovingly named “Stella” drew lots of attention. In addition to being featured as a “Foxy Rider” in Easyriders, she and Stella also graced the cover of Harley Women magazine in 1989 (May/June). Stella’s no “showgirl,” however; she and Debbie have logged more than 70,000 miles together over the years. Meanwhile, Debbie’s husband, Tom, maintained his own ® small stable of Panheads and Knuckleheads. Together, the couple H.O.G. M A K E S I T cruised the back roads of America in blissful Hog harmony – until they decided some “upgrades” were in order. “We both decided to retire our old bikes for the long trips,” she explains, “even though we were both ‘die-hards’ about replacing the old with the new.” In 2006, Debbie added a Street Glide® (“Johnny”) to her personal collection. Not long after, Tom dove headfirst into the liquid-cooled world with the purchase of a V-Rod. Soon, Debbie magazine traded Johnny for “Darth,” a Night Rod® Special. “I loved the dark TO SHARE RIDING STORIES side of Darth, the feel of the drag bars and the way you just sit Easyriders

Whether you want to update your friends on your latest riding adventure or need

®

Reprinted courtesy of of courtesy Reprinted help along the road, your Harley Owners Group membership makes it easier to stay

connected – with a 17% discount on select wireless service from AT&T. Available to full inside this powerhouse of a bike, which I find to be surprisingly light and easy to maneuver.” and full life members in the United States (and to new or existing AT&T customers), She says she sometimes misses those early days, when she and this money-saving benefit makes your H.O.G. membership more valuable than ever. For Tom’s love of old Harley bikes sometimes outweighed even what many would consider essentials. But she also says she wouldn’t details, conditions, and to sign up, log on to members.hog.com. And stay in touch for less. change a thing about how things have worked out – so far. “I intend to keep riding until I am too old to ride safely. Until then … see ya on the road!”

deBBie venus-FenricH Limited-time offer. Requires a 2-year agreement on a qualified plan. Other conditions and restrictions apply. See contract and rate plan brochure for details. Subscriber must live and have a mailing address within AT&T’s owned wireless network coverage area. LitcHFieLd, OHiO Purchase of additional equipment, services or features may be required. Not all features available on all devices or in all areas. All H.O.G. members must purchase via the members.hog.com website. Offer not valid in other AT&T Sales Channels. Early Termination Fee: None if cancelled in the first 30 days, but up to $35 restocking fee may apply to equipment returns; if cancelled after the first 30 days, thereafter up to $175. Unlimited Voice Services: Unlimited voice services are provided primarily for live dialog between two individuals. No additional discounts are available with unlimited plan. Offnet Usage: If your minutes of use (including unlimited services) on other carriers’ networks (“offnet usage”) during any two consecutive months exceeds your offnet usage allowance, send your submIssIons for enthusiasts to [email protected]. Be sure to include high-quality photos, as well as AT&T may at its option terminate your service, deny your continued use of other carriers’ coverage, or change your plan to one imposing usage charges for offnet usage. Your offnet usage allowance is equal to the lesser of 750 minutes or 40% of the Anytime Minutes included with your plan (data offnet usage allowance is the lesser of 24 MB or 20% of the MB included with your plan for any one month period). Data Plans: An eligible data plan is required for certain devices, including designated smartphones. Eligible your name, address, phone number, and e-mail address. you can also mail submissions to enthusiasts, c/o HOG magazine, P.O. Box data plans cover data usage in the U.S. and do not cover international data usage and charges. If it is determined that you are using a designated smartphone without an eligible data plan, AT&T reserves the right to add an eligible data plan to your account 453, Milwaukee, wi 53201. and bill you the appropriate monthly fee. Monthly Discount: Available upon enrollment to qualified full or full life H.O.G. members so long as AT&T and Harley-Davidson Motor Company maintain a qualified business agreement (“Business Agreement”). Discount subject to corresponding Business Agreement. After the initial 2-year term agreement if on monthly service, the discount may be interrupted and/or discontinued without notice to you. Discount applies only to the monthly service charge of qualified plans and not to any other charges. Minimum monthly service charge per line for qualified plans and other requirements may be required for discount eligibility. Discounts may not be combined. Offer subject to change. Additional conditions and restrictions apply. ©2010 AT&T Intellectual Property. All rights reserved. AT&T and the AT&T logo are trademarks of AT&T Intellectual Property. NOTE: AT&T and its subsidiaries offer services directly to H.O.G. members. Harley-Davidson Motor Company and H.O.G. are not parties to any 60 HOG contract or agreement between these companies and H.O.G. members. Harley-Davidson Motor Company and H.O.G. are not responsible for or liable for any services offered by AT&T and do not make any representations or warranties regarding any AT&T services. Riders know a superior machine

Gear deserves superior protection.

I will never insure my motorcycle with anybody other than Harley-Davidson® Insurance. There is no other agency out there that would have provided such great service, and made sure that I had the right coverage, including all of my accessories. Harley-Davidson® Insurance Services looked out for me, and I will remain with them as long as I am riding my Harley® motorcycle. Randy Rice | Rolling Thunder Motorcycle Group, South Carolina Intercom and B2B Communications Road Chatter

We live in an age of instant communication, which, depending on your perspective, should either be cursed or celebrated. If you’re celebrating and you ride an ’07 or later non-Ultra Touring model equipped with Advanced Audio Radio – including the non-Tour-Pak® carrier- equipped Road Glide® and Street Glide® – you might appreciate the new Boom!™ Audio Music and Intercom Kit and the Bike-to-Bike Communications System. With the Music and Intercom Kit and a Helmet Headset, you get headset access to music and navigation commands that would otherwise transmit through the motorcycle speakers. Plus you get rider-to-passenger intercom Plug-and-play: Discrete ports on the tank and rear fender make it easy for both rider and passenger to get wired for sound. communication, which adds a new dimension to long-distance riding by swapping over-the-shoulder shouts with calm, clear conversation. The music kit/headset combo retains your motorcycle’s full audio functionality (MP3, iPod, CD, AM/FM, or XM® Radio), which automatically Loud and Clear mutes when someone talks. Plugging in is quick and easy, thanks to discrete Boom!™ Audio HigH PerformAnce Boom!™ tank and rear fender ports that accept the 7-pin plugs. Separate volume BAgger SPeAkerS controls for the rider and passenger along with VOX allow custom tuning for conditions and sensitivity. Touring riders who want more boom from their audio ™ Want to expand your Music and Intercom Kit to include bike-to-bike (B2B) have two new options: Boom! Audio High Performance ™ communication capability? Boom! Bagger Rear and Fairing Speakers. Begin with the Music and Intercom Kit and add the B2B Communications Waterproof and vibration tested, these plug-and-play Kit, and a model-specific B2B Antenna, and you get convenient, clear 5-1/4" speakers deliver 30 RMS at 60 watts max communication with other riders using the same system. A push-to-talk power input each. Their increased efficiency makes switch is used for all B2B communication, while rider/passenger them louder than stock and leading aftermarket communication remains VOX-activated. speakers. Equally important, the High Performance In our own testing, HOG® magazine staff was impressed with benefits of Speakers’ separate low-mid range and tweeter driver Find out why nobody does communicating clearly with other riders and passengers, conveying real, design coupled with the tweeters being directional valuable information like road hazards, pit-stop requirements, missed turns, optimized, deliver greater vocal and instrumental bike insurance better. directions, and such. clarity, especially at higher vehicle speeds. ™ Yes, exaggerated hand signals can still be used to communicate with The Boom! Bagger Rear Speakers (P/N 77037-10, Call us toll-free at 1-800-378-5604. passengers and other riders, but usually with mixed success and comic $149) fit ’06-later FLHTCU, FLHTK, and FLHTCUTG relief. However, hand signals don’t have a two-mile range like the B2B setup models equipped with the Advanced Audio System ® and, at night, are no more effective than smoke signals. and Touring models equipped with Tour-Pak carrier- Many riders have an opinion about the perceived safety of motorcycle mounted speakers. These speakers complement the ® ™ communication systems. Our experience suggests that it’s better to Electra Glide fairing-mounted Boom! Audio Speakers effectively and clearly speak/listen, rather than take your hands off the (P/N 77181-10, $149). ™ handlebar and eyes off the road to communicate the more traditional way. The Boom! Bagger Fairing Speakers fit ’06-later ™ Still not sold on the idea? Think of it this way: If you’re going to curse Electra Glide and Tri Glide (P/N 77181-10, $149) and modern communication, imagine how much more effective you’ll be by Road Glide (P/N 77028-10, $149) models equipped using words. with the Advanced Audio System.

Coverages, discounts and availability may vary by state and carrier. Void where prohibited by law. Not available in Canada. Harley-Davidson Insurance Services, Inc. is a Nevada licensed 62 HOG insurance agency (NV#5597). ©2010 H-D, Harley-Davidson and the Bar & Shield logo are among the trademarks of H-D Michigan, LLC.

®

Archives MORE THAN Photographs courtesy of the the of courtesy Photographs Company Motor Harley-Davidson H-D. Copyright Archives.

ANRegular service OILwill help keep your CHANGE H-D® motorcycle operating at peak performance. With more than 20 specifi c check points from front tire to tailpipe, your Harley-Davidson® dealer Leaping Legend knows best how to service your motorcycle using factory approved methods and equipment.

As the crow (or Sky Cycle) flies,it’s just over 250 miles Lubricate from Butte, Montana to the Snake River Canyon in Twin Falls, hinges and Check Lubricate Idaho. But for Robert Craig “Evel” Knievel, getting from one Check Check air latches on Check Check Inspect operation steering head rear brake suspension fuel door, Check and front brake and lubricate of electrical bearings. place to the other was a long, unlikely, and painful journey. fl uid level pressure, Tour-Pak® battery Inspect lubricate fl uid level clutch and equipment Ensure No one knows exactly when Evel Knievel performed his and operation carrier and and clean fuel lines clutch and brake hand and proper condition. and leakage. saddlebags. connections. and fi ttings. controls. condition. levers. switches. adjustment. first major stunt. According to local legend, while working for a copper mining company in Butte, he performed a wheelie using a large piece of earth-moving equipment, took out a Inspect and service air power line, and left his hometown in the dark for several hours. Evel Knievel jumps 10 semis in Hutchinson, Kansas in 1971. cleaner as He may have been inspired by seeing the Joie Chitwood Auto required. Daredevil Show at age 8. Years later, he said that’s what sparked With his jump of the fountain at Caesar’s Palace on New Inspect front brake his interest in derring-do. Year’s Eve in 1967, Knievel skyrocketed into superstardom. The pads and discs for Knievel was a gifted young man by any standard. As a distance alone, 141 feet, would have been enough to garner wear, and brake line for leaks, contact or newsboy, his knack for exaggerating the day’s headlines helped attention, but the jump is mainly known for its disastrous abrasions. him outsell the competition. He also showed superb athletic landing. Knievel came up short on the ramp and spent the next skills. In his early adult years, he excelled in skiing and pole Check front tire 29 days in a coma with more than half a dozen broken bones. pressure and inspect vaulting, and later founded a semi-pro hockey team called the Evel signed with Harley-Davidson as his official sponsor tread. Check wheel Butte Bombers. in 1971, using the relatively new XR750® flat track racer as spoke torque (if equipped). Knievel’s first motorcycle jump came in 1965 in Moses Lake, his mount. He felt the patriotic theme of his act called for an Check Washington, where he jumped a Honda 350 about 40 feet American manufacturer and sponsor. Knievel would remain clutch across a box of rattlesnakes and two mountain lions. The jump with Harley-Davidson until his final jump, and his XR750s adjustment. came up just short and the motorcycle’s rear wheel broke became known for their trademark red, white, and blue paint, Replace open one of the snake boxes. “All the people ran like hell,” as well as the $100 bill beneath the clear coat on the gas tanks. primary he recounted, “and I was on a In 1974, Evel, with his one-of-a-kind, rocket-propelled “Sky chaincase lubricant. motorcycle, so I just got the hell Cycle X2,” finally put the necessary pieces together to jump away from there.” Idaho’s Snake River Canyon. The jump, something he dreamed The next year he played the of since his Caesar’s Palace days, failed due to the accidental Western U.S. in a traveling show deployment of the parachute on takeoff. But the event was he called “Bob Knievel’s Motorcycle a publicity sensation, earning him the only Sports Illustrated Daredevils.” With his publicity cover appearance by a motorcycle stuntman. and showmanship skills already Most sports experience major transformations, but they Inspect Inspect rear Check rear Inspect Inspect Replace Inspect Replace Inspect honed, Knievel was responsible for typically result only after multiple people spend years or exhaust brake pads tire pressure and adjust spark plugs. transmission oil lines engine oil and lubricate all aspects of the show, and quickly decades hard at work. With motorcycle jumping, one man took system for and discs for and inspect drive belt. Ensure lubricant. for leaks, and fi lter. jiffy stand. leaks, cracks, wear, and tread. Check Inspect proper gap contact or learned how even unintended things from county fairs to entirely new heights in a few short and loose brake line wheel spoke wheel setting. abrasion. events, such as his injuries, boosted years. Long after his final jump in Chicago (over sharks) in 1977, or missing for leaks, torque (if compensator fasteners contact or equipped). sprocket. post-event publicity. popular culture reverberated with echoes of Evel Knievel. or exhaust abrasions. SYN3® oil is the only synthetic lubricant specifi cally Motorcycle daredevils had been around for decades. Early shields. ® designed for use in your Harley-Davidson® motorcycle. stuntriders most often crashed through flaming walls or jumped The new exhibit, “True Evel: The Amazing Story

through fiery hoops. Other acts included “wall of death” feats of Evel Knievel,” will be featured at the Harley‑Davidson Check for open recalls, product Check tightness of all Road test – verify component campaigns, trouble codes, and engine of riding nearly horizontal on a steeply banked circular wall. Museum® from July 10 to September 6. It will be the largest critical fasteners. and system functions. management system updates. But Evel Knievel single-handedly transformed the sport by exhibit to date devoted to the life of Evel Knievel, and the first combining publicity genius with raw nerve and attempting 25,000 tickets issued will be commemorative collector’s edition. jumps previously unimagined. Check www.h-dmuseum.com for details. Log onto h-d.com and click on “GET ON A BIKE_Dealer Locator” to fi nd a dealer near you.

Depicted are areas that are serviced during the recommended 1000 mile service for a 2010 Touring model. Refer to owner’s manual for more details. 64 HOG © 2010 H-D. All Rights Reserved. Harley-Davidson and the Bar & Shield logo are among the trademarks of H-D Michigan, LLC. Exhaust

Free to Live, Free to Ride BY Tom Howes

Escape. It’s a word people use all the time to describe the experience On July 2, 2008, thanks to a precise and daring rescue of riding a motorcycle – a Harley-Davidson,® in particular. operation conducted by the Colombian Army, freedom rang for The word can mean different things to different people, as we all us again. What happened after we came home was something of have things that hold us in various forms of bondage. But whatever a whirlwind. We were reunited with loved ones, gave interviews, they are, spending time on our motorcycles can take us away – for and began the long process of readjusting to life “out of an hour, a few days, or longer. captivity.” Thanks to Harley-Davidson, this last part has been For me and two fellow civilian defense contractors, Marc made just a little easier. Gonsalves and Keith Stansell, the word escape took on a far more Through an interview we did with CNN, the Motor Company literal meaning when our plane went down deep in the Colombian heard of our situation and our dreams of a Freedom Ride. They jungle on February 13, 2003. Though we survived the crash, we invited us all to attend the 105TH Anniversary Celebration in were captured almost immediately by members of that country’s Milwaukee later that summer – and told us we could each pick most notorious terrorist insurgency group. We out a new bike as a gift. Once I recovered from would not see freedom again for 1,967 days – the shock, I chose a 2008 105TH Anniversary almost five-and-a-half years. Road King.® (Thank you, Harley-Davidson!) It’s difficult to describe what we went through During my time away, my old life became – and the conditions we were forced to live in a rat’s nest that I’m still trying to untangle. (though they’re detailed in the book we wrote My marriage did not survive. I’m still adjusting about the experience, Out of Captivity). Suffice to the normal pace of “civilized” life. And it to say that the words living hell fall far short of I’m working hard to rebuild the special the mark. And we knew our captors had standing relationship I’ve always had with my son orders to kill all prisoners in the event of an Tommy, who was just five years old when escape or rescue attempt, which left us little I was captured. room to hope we might ever see freedom again. But through it all, as I wrote in the book, Under the circumstances, one of the best my Harley® motorcycle has been the perfect things we had going for us was our imaginations. de-stresser: So we started talking about taking a motorcycle Every few days, I take my new bike out and go for a morning ride, our “Freedom Ride.” When immersed in those thoughts, cup of coffee at a shop called Osorio. There’s nothing all that we didn’t feel like prisoners, as Marc describes in our book: swanky about the place, but being able to go out and get a cup In time, as our liberty and our chances of being released faded, of coffee in a paper cup just because I can is pleasure enough. we all expanded our ideas of the Freedom Ride. Forget the cheap … When my cup is empty, I don’t linger for long. The ride home bikes, let’s go all-out, maybe pick up some used Harleys and tour in the steadily warming air is always refreshing, but nothing the Southeast U.S. As our deprivation increased, and we needed beats pulling into the driveway of my house. even grander dreams to offset it, we thought we could walk into Freedom. There’s another word that can mean different a Harley-Davidson dealership, tell them our story of being held things. To the hundreds still being held captive by the FARC, captive, and get a sweet deal on three brand-spanking-new bikes. it remains a dream, and we should not forget them. To those We’d hit the road and go coast to coast. of us who have survived that same captivity, it means coming Even when we stopped for a five-minute rest [on forced home. To you, I hope it will always mean being able to escape marches] and could sense that we were dragging or our spirits on your Harley-Davidson motorcycle as often as you want. were down, one of us would say something like, “I heard about this one road in Tennessee. They call it the Tail of the Dragon. Tom Howes, along with Marc Gonsalves and Keith Stansell, Three hundred and eighteen curves in eleven miles. We’re going is co-author of Out of Captivity: Surviving 1,967 Days in the to ride that thing.” I would spend the next part of the march Colombian Jungle. He currently lives in Merritt Island, Florida, there on that road, taking each and every one of those curves. with his son Tommy.

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