// ABS.1.15.ZU+ / j4-/3 6 Lulobodc 1-^ THE POCKET GUIDE PICTURESQUE SCENERY OF SCOTLAND;

THETHE SPLENDID SUBLIME OF OF INVERNESS-SHIRE; PERTHSHIRE; AND THE BEAUTIFUL OF DUMBARTONSHIRE THE FALLS OF CLYDE, AND MANY OTHER SUCH ROMANTIC SCENES.

GLASGOW: Published by JOHN POLLOCK,W. R. M'PHUN, EDINBURGH 86, | THONGN. H. COTES, ATE; LONDON. MDCCCXXXV1 Uniform with this Volume, and intended as a Companion to it, price 2s. 6'Z. THE SCOTTISH TOURIST’S STEAM-BOAT POCKET GUIDE;

AN ACCOUNT OF ALL THAT IS WOUTHV OF THE

WESTERN HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS

SCOTLAND. s; an .oUnWori?;'"4 JOHN MILLER, Esq. OF MUIRSHIEL, THE GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE SCENERY OP SCOTLAND, AS A MARK OF RESPECT,

tiY MIS VERY OBEDIENT SERVANT, THE PUBLISHER.

CONTENTS.

FIRST TOUR. Fromhouse Glasgow Toll—Uddingston—Bothwell to the Falls of Clyde :—Tolleross—Broom, grounds and castle— BlantyreHamilton—Hamilton Priory—Bothwell palace—the bridge—Bothwellhaugh— Avon—Cadyow castle ■ —ClydesdaleCartland Crags—Lanark—New orchards—Dalserf—Fall I.anark—Bonniton of Stonebyres— Fall ‘ 'Hamilton—Corra Linn—New to Glasgow. route indicated for returning from 1 SECOND TOUR. house—Mid Calder—Hatton—Dalmahoy—Edinburgh. Bathgate—Uphall—Edinburgh.—HI.—It. By Airdrie and Uphall: Shettlcston—Airdrie— By Falkirk and lithgow—Kirkliston—Edinburgh—IV.Linlithgow : Cumbernauld — Camelon—Falkirk—Lin- By the Forth and —FrithClyde canal: of Forth—Trinity Port Dunda*—Lock chair-pier.—V. No. Hi—Grangemouth By the Union duct—Portcanal: The Hopetoun. Tunnel—Avon aqueduct—Slateford aque- i THIRD TOUR. 'romroutes Glasgow indicated to :Stirling Stirling—Bannockburn—Dunblane— and the Trosachs:—Different BridgeBenledi—Loch of Allan—Doune—Callander—Lochlubnaig— Vennachoir—Glenfinglas—The Trosachs

•’-rJi/j'/j s WTIIK nn); rPLA^B’S’ * //// . l////,'r Ns,jr •i'rsJitil. POCKET GUIDE PICTURESQUE SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. FIRST TOUR. FROM GLASGOW TO THE FALLS OF CLYDE. Tollcross, Bothwell 3*—•Broomhouse grounds and Toll,castle—Blantyre 5^— Uddingston, Friory 6 10^Bothwell Hamilton bridge, palace—the'Avon—Cadyow 8—Bothwellhaugh—Hamiltfi, cattle Stonebyres—Clydesdale Cortlandorchards—Dalscrf, Crags—Lanark, 18—Fall 25—Nt-w of indicatedLanark—Bonniton for returning Fall— from Corra Hamilton, Linn—New to Glasgow. route culturalThe Strath districts of the of ClydeScotland,—one is one of the of therichest few agri-por- hetions put of in our competition northern withpart ofthe the fair island and fertile which plains may perhapsof ‘ merry better England.’ cultivated There districts, are richer in Scotland, soils, andbut nonewell-wooded more likely plains to of please England an eye than accustomed Clydesdale. to theIt iin »miles The fromfigures Glasgow, in the synopsis of each tour denote the distance 2 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE hutoffers Bothwell many points Castle, of andthe therichest Falls sylvan of the scenery^ Clyde, ofform the the romantic principal and objects picturesque. of attraction to the lover routeWe fromshall Glasgowsuppose toour the tourist Falls. to Leavingadopt the the usual city hyurban the villagesGallowgate, of Camlachiehe soon passes and throughParkhead, the sub-and, toabout the threesouth miles of which from aretown, the the Clyde village Iron of Tollcross,Works, a tovery about extensive one thousandestablishment, persons. affording On theemployment opposite placeside of of the considerable river is seen antiquity, the burgh but of offering Ruthergien, nothing a right,to attract and theMount tourist. Vernon Leaving on the Kenmure left, he onpasses the branches;Broomhouse that Toll, to thewhere left the leading road dividesto Edinburgh,— into two pursue—tothat on the right—whichHamilton. Passingthe tourist Daldowie to the Falls House, will andthe roadis then crosses continued the North through Calder a fine river plain, by awith bridge, the ofClyde Uddingston. close on the right, to the pleasant little village passesAbout a veryhalf ahandsome mile beyond Gothic Uddingston, gateway, the of touristrecent theerection, seat indicatingof Lord theDouglas. approach Permission to Bothwell will castle, be attiredreadily visitorsgranted to at enter the andlodge perambulate here to any the decently beauti- ductsful grounds from ofthe Bothwell. gate to theA modernserpentine seat walk of Lordcon- bankDouglas, of the which river. rises It on is thea handsome high but butfinely ineffective swarded SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. offersstructure, nothing consicj^ring to detain its thefine visitorlocality; from and pursuing in itself hiscastle route of Both a few well, hundred whose loftyyards weather-beaten further to the ancienttowers, them,shooting form above a fine the obiectmasses from of foliage various which points environ of the surroundingBothwell castle landscape. is one of the most magnificent as land.well as Itpicturesque is a large remains oblong ofquadrangular feudal times building, in Scot-, inof breadtha reddish ; flankedsandstone by ; two234 lofty feet towersin length, on theand east, 100 andceed a 15great feet tower in thickness at the west in someend. parts,The wallsand ex-are river00 feet front. in heightThe interiorto the ramparts, buildings onhave the nearly south dis- or appeared,chapel at thewith east the end. exception The' greatof the entrance walls of must the havewhich been side thein theprincipal centre artificialof the northern defences front,would onbe erected.the noble proprietorNothing can in exceedthe style the of taste the displayedsurrounding by grounds.over-neatness Mr. in Leighton, the trimmed indeed, walks complains and smooth- of an tainlyshaven did turf not in occurthe vicinity,* to us. Considerablebut the objection" attention cer- ising necessary only ‘ the in birth-placesuch localities of ugly to prevent weeds,’— them becom- And the“ dock thistles and andhenbane nettles and and hemlock darnels dank,”— rank. i- whichthe effect arc ofby such no means a pile necessaryas Bothwell accessaries castle. towards I * See Letter-press to * Swan’s Views of the River Clyde.’ GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE minusSir Andrew de Bochwell,’ Murray, sometimessometimes designated‘ Dominus ‘ Do-de powerfulClydesdale,’ of wasSir oneWilliam of the Wallace’s stanchest compatriots. and most sonHe wasSir Andrew,killed at joinedthe battle Bruce, of Stirling and afterwards in 1297. mar-His prisonerried his sister,at Roxburgh, Christian. but wasIn 1332,ransomed he was ; and, taken in gave1335, Bothwellappointed castleRegent to ofAymer Scotland. de Vallance, Edward Earl I. of Pembroke.Hereford, and In several 1314, Humphryother English de Bohun, nobles, Earl fled hitherIt was forsoon refuge afterwards after the surrendered defeat at Bannockburn. to Edward againBruce, fell but into during the hands the ofminority the English. of David Archibald Bruce thewith Grim, the grand-daughter'of third Earl of Douglas, Sir Andrew by his marriageMurray, thebrought possession this castle of the and Douglasses,the surrounding with lordshipwhom theyinto continuedBothwell wastill bestowedtheir forfeiture by James in IV.1445. on InPatrick, 1488, Loi'dIt was Hales, forfeited afterwards by James, created the.fourth Earl Earlof Bothweli. of lloth- andweli, estates,in 1567. though After not a varietythe titles, of changesof Bothwell, the lands fell side,to the of latethe lastLord Duke Douglas, of Douglas. nephew, Heby wasthe createdfemale theLord superiority, Douglas after however, his accession of the lordshipto this property;of Both- handswell, andof the the Hamilton patronage family.. of the church, is in the particularlyThe grounds towards of Bothwell the river, are which very finelyhere makeswooded, a SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. !, noblebanks, sweepthe beauties between of which the' highhave beenand celebratedumbrageous in ourtourist earliest has not as heardwell as of modern ‘ The exiled minstrelsy. .Scotian Maid,’If the “ By fond alluring love betrayed InTo plaintive visit Syria’s strains date-crown’d that soothed shore. despair. he will thank us for here inserting the pleasing tale latein old years, Verstigan’s that an quaintEnglish terms. gentleman, “ So travellingfell it out inof throughPalestine, a notcountry far fromtown, Jerusalem, he heard asby hechance passed a singwoman ‘ Bothsitting well at bank, her door,thou dandlingbloomest herfair.’ child, The to gentlemanlish saluted hereat the woman, wondered, who andjoyfully forthwith answered in Eng-him, ofand our said isle, she andwas righttold himglad thatthere she to seewas a gentlemana Scottish woman,from Venice and camethither, first where from Scotlandher fortune to Venice,and was to be thatthe wife instant of an absent, officer and under very the soon Turk; to return, who being she en- at treatedThe which the gentlemanhe did ; andto stay she, there for country-sake,until his return. to showtold her herself husband the more at his kind home and coming, bountiful that unto the him,gen- tlemanentertained was herhim kinsman very kindly, ; whereupon and, at his her departure, husband gave him divers things of good value.”f ‘ *Itcstitution l.cyden’s Odeof Decayed on Scottish Intelligence.’ Music. GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE summitImmediately of the more opposite precipitous to Bothwell southern castle, bank on of the tyre,river, founded are the ruinsby Alexander of the ancient II. ‘ PrioryFrere William,of Blan- Berwick.Priour de Blantyre,’Walter Stewart, swore sonfealty of Sirto EdwardJohn Stewart I. at aboutof Minto, the yearwas 1579.created Hecommendator purchased theof landsBtantyre and inbarony 1606. of TheBlantyre, remains and of was the createdPriory areLord exceedingly Blantyre beatenpicturesque, rock andwhich harmonize juts out finely here withand thethere weather- amid loftythe fantastic bank. Offoliage course which tradition clothes affirms the rugged that there and stream,is a communication, between the castle running and theunder priory. the bedIt is of much the possessed'amore clearly good ascertained orchard, thatthe remainsthe latter of mustwhich have are MillA tovisit be'traced to Bothwell in a few grounds, moss-covered castle, appleand priory,trees. thismay hintwell we occupy must nowa good take summer’s the road again,day; butand withpro- aceed half onwards beyond to Uddingston. the village of TheBothwell, church a mile-and-of Both- handsome■well, designed building by Mr. in Scottthe modernof Glasgow, Gothic is a style,very awith short a timetower since, about the 100 old feet church’being high. It wasthought erected in- secure.Bothwell Abridge, little one further of the on, principal the tourist points crossesin the tersfar-famed and the locality king’s oftroops, the fight under between the Duke the covenan-of Mon- mouthdefeated in by 1679. the CameroniansClaverhouse athad Loudon been originallyhill, and SCENERY OE SCOTLAND. leavinghad even his found antagonists it necessary nearly to in evacuate full possession Glasgow, of surgents,the West insteadof Scotland. of preparing Unfortunately themselves the for heroic further in- untilcontest, the spent royal their army time was in once factious more polemical in a condition debates, to encounterEdinburgh them. towards It Hamilton, moved slowly under forwardthe command from reachedof James, Both Duke well of moor Buccleuch on the and 22d Monmouth, of June, 1679. and of“ The Hamilton’s insurgents park, were along encamped the Clyde, chiefly which in the separ-Duke atedlong andthe narrow^two armies. had thenBothwell a portal bridge, in the which middle, is cadoedwith gates, with which stones the and Covenanters logs of timber. shut, andThis barri- im- bestportant men, post under was Hackstondefended byof threeRathillet, hundred and ofHall their of crossedHaughhead. the bridge, Early and in skirmishedthe morning, with this the partyroyal vanguard,Bothwell. nowBut advancedHackston as speedily far as retiredthe village to hisof dispositionspost, at the madeend ofby Bothwellthe Duke bridge.of Monmouth, While an-the morenounced moderate his purpose of the insurgentsof assailing resolved the pass, to offerthe terms.fortune, Fergusonand David of Kaitloch,Hume, a aclergyman, gentleman carried of landed to freethe Dukeexercise of ofMonmouth their religion, a supplication, a free parliament, demanding and aheard free generaltheir demands assembly with of his^haturalthe church. mildness, The Duke and (assuredin their thembehalf, he on would condition interpose of their with immediatelyhis Majesty GUIDE TO THfi PICTURESQUE dispersingHad the insurgents themselves, been and all ofyielding the moderate up their opinion, arms. thisshed proposalsaved, and, would perhaps, have been some accepted, permanent much advan-blood- tageCameronians, derived to their their defence party; would or had have they been been fierce all assortedand desperate. officers wereBut, debatingwhile their upon motley the Duke’s and mis-pro- posal,western his side field-pieces of the river, were to alreadycover the planted attack onof the footto force guards, the bridge.who were Here led Hackstonon by .Lord maintained Livingstone his postammunition with zeal was and expended, courage ;and nor every was supportit until alldenied his thehim importantby the general, pass. thatWhen he reluctantlyhis party wasabandoned drawn nonback, in the front, Duke’s defiled army, along slowly, the bridge, and withand formedtheir can- in linecommanded of battle, the as theyfoot, came and overClaverhouse the river; the the cavalry. Duke haveIt would been performedseem, that without these movements at least some could loss, hadnot insurgentsthe enemy beenwere serious otherwise in opposing employed. them. WithBut the theystrangest chose delusion these precious that ever moments fell upon to devoted cashier beings, their portantofficers, operation,and elect others they werein their at lengthroom. disturbedIn this im-by thewhich Duke’s the horsecannon, of theat theCovenanters very first wheeled, discharge and of rodetheir off,infantry breaking in andtheir trampling flight. downThe Cameronianthe ranks of ofaccount the horse, blames who Weir is oftermed Greenridge, a sad Achana commander in the SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. dameamp. onThe Hamilton, more moderate whose conduct,party lay they the say, whole left toward,he world or to fool. debate, The whether generous he wasMonmouth most traitor, was nen,uixious by towhich spare he the incurred blood of much his infatuated blame among country- the gentshigh-flying that theroyalists. battle didLucky not ithappen was for a theday insur-later, 'uiusewhen oldthe Generalterror and Dalzell, hatred who of divided the Whigs, with Claver-arrived mouth,in the camp, as commander-in-chief. with a commission toHe supersede is said to Mon- have heartilyupbraided to thehave Duke, wished publicly, his own with commission his lenity, andhad some! a day sooner, when, as he expressed himself, King These or rogues country.’ should But, never notwithstanding more have troubled the mer- the madeciful orders great havocof the among Duke theof Monmouth,fugitives, of thewhom cavalry four hundredConsiderable were slain.” alterations have been made on the featuresunlucky offight.. the tield The of battlebridge since has thehad day 22 of feetthis addedover which, to its the original royal forces breadth advanced of 12; to battlethe moor has beenlittle villaall brought now crowns under the theknoll plough; whence andthey a‘ shuir’d smart theirThe shot level down grounds in the which howe.’ stretch from Bothwell bridgedescriptively along termedthe north-east Bothwellhaugh, bank of and the once river form- are edhaugh,’ the estatethe assassin of the offierce the Hegentbut ‘ injured Murray.* Bothwell- Minstrelsy,’* See Robertson’s ted. 1835) ‘vol. History iv. p. 200.of Scotland,’ B. v.—‘Border 10 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE On leaving the bridge, the tourist passes several whichhandsome he entersvillas, andthe ancientthe cavalry town karracks,of Hamilton, after inerected 154S. a burghThis town of barony has not in a1456, very and imposing a royal appear- burgh ance;buildings, it is withirregularly the exception built, and of ahas tine no court-house tine public justpopulation erected in in 1861 the amountedsuburbs, nearto 9513, the ofbarracks. whom about Its church,700 are ofengaged the date in 1451,weaving. existed An here, old butcollegiate being withwithin the a restfew ofyards the originalof the palace, village, was about pulled a century down, ago—Theis Hamilton principal palace, theobject seat of of attraction the Duke toof touristsHamil- demesne,ton. It isand ill situated,still close being upon in the a cornertown; ofbut the it ducal is a sivemagnificent alterations edifice and since additions the completion begun in of 1826, theexten- from front,designs which by Hamilton has a northern of Glasgow. aspect, Theis 263 principal feet in storieslength, orand floors; 60 in aheight. rustic basement“ It is divided story, intothe prin-three chambercipal floor floor in which above. are Thethe public elevation apartments, of this andfront a inglyexhibits, splendid supported example on a rusticof the basement, Corinthian an exceed-order,, takenStator fromat Rome, the remainsone of the of most the templeenriched of and Jupiter cor- rectthe rudeof the hand ancient of timespecimens has left of usthat to order,admire which and ple,imitate. three pillarsWe believe and athat portion of this of oncethe entablature gorgeous tem- are ■ all that now remain. Mr. Hamilton has, with great SCENERY SCOTLAND. 11 .susceptibility■judgment, selected of ornament this style and for decoration the palace, is asmore its (could-in character have chosen, with such and aits mansion light and than airy any graces other are he waspeculiarly to be erected.suited toIn the its lowlength situation the front in iswhich broken it 'bycentre, three which projections, gives varietyone at eachand effectend and to theone ineleva- the ,tion.which isFrom the grandthe centre entrance, projection stands the boldly portico, out, under rear- ingCorinthian aloft its magnificentcapitals, and columns, supporting with an their equally enriched en- (consistsiriched entablatureof two rows ofand six pediment. columns, oneThe behind portico the other,is greatly by whichincreased. the depthThe andpillars grandeur are SO of feet effect 6 incheseter, each in formedheight, ofand an entire3 feet stone.2 inches I n inthe diam-tym- panumin bas relief. of the pediment,This splendid the familyportico arms rests are on carveda pro- jectingthere is parta grand of entrancethe rustic stair, basement, which ascendsand in rightfront extremityand left into of theit. fa9adeThe projectingare ornamented portions by atdouble each floorpilasters lights on thiseither part side of theof a building window, ; whichand the on reced- each gngwindows portions, on eachon both flat, sides well ofproportioned the portico, andhave orna- four mentedwhole elevation by cornices, is surmounted pilasters, byand a verytrusses. rich enta-The theilature building and projectingis the kitchen cornice. wing, Atthe thefront west of endwhich of extends(itchen court100 feetis ornamented in length. byThe four pilastersgateway havingto the 12 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE Attic capitals, and a dintell corniced pediment, under within.which there The is merea lofty extent archway and openingheight of to thethe northcourt grandeur;front of itself the givesrichness it anof airthe ofentablature magnificence and andthe thepilasters, elegance the of just their proportions cornices and of thepediments windows, add and to stairthis; arrestsbut the and splendour rivets the ofattention the portico, of the andspectator, great andcipal excites ornament even howeverfeelings ofof thethis sublime. building, '1 afterhe prin- all) arethat great can beindeed, said of is itsthe individual admirable beauties, proportion and ofthey its sovarious that insteadparts, and of attractingtheir subordination separately, to oreach standing other; admiration,forth, as if each they looking blend theirfor individual beauties andand createparticular one harmoniousThis magnificent and perfect building whole.” stands on a plain be- meadowtween the of townabout and 500 theacres. river, The a perfectlyextent of level the entireis a fine policy picture and gallery,park is abovecontaining 1400 theacres. celebrated There ‘ MarriageDaniel in Feast,’ the Lions’by Paul Den,’ Veronese; by llubens;a noble por-the! trait‘ Two of Misers,’the first Earlby Matsys; of Denbigh, and aby fine Vandyke portrait ; the ofi paintings.*Napoleon by David; with many other excellent; posed* A to visit spend to othe little South time Colder at Hamilton. will repay Crossing the tourist thi bvwhich the Edinburghleads to Wishaw road he castle. takes theHaving first traversedroad to the tl ongrounds to the of right Wishaw is Murdicston, castle, he enters and beyond, those of Allanton Coltness; ; 1I SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 13 lisleLeaving road, Hamilton,the toarist and passes proceeding several byneat the villas,Car- ’ theamongst left; whichand Woodlands, are Hutton-bank Castlehill, and and Pease-bank, Barncluith, on crosseson the theright. romantic About Avon* a mile by anfrom old Hamiltonbridge. The he partsbanks wooded of this streamto the water’sare bold edge,—in and craggy,—in others, some ‘ Shagg’d with thorn and tangling sloe,’ presentingThe bed ofa finethe intermixtureAvon is in someof foliage parts and 400 rock. feet !, beneathOn the westthe banksurface are line the ruinsof its ofprecipitous Cadyow orbanks. Cad- familyzow castle, of Hamilton the ancient ; their baronial situation, residence embosomed of the in ingwood, torrent, darkened is romantic by ivy, andin the overhanging highest degree.f the brawl- In mensethe immediate oaks, the vicinity remains of of Cadyow the Caledonian is a grove forest, of im- m fiercewhich breedare still of preservedcattle. Cadyowa few of wasthe ancientsacked and afterdilapidated the battle by ofthe Langside. party of 'Onthe theRegent opposite Murray, bank of thethe AvonDuke standsof Hamilton’s, Chatelherault, built ina summerimitation house of a chateausessed in ofFrance, that name and from which which his ancestorsthe family once received pos- ttouriston by Clelandwhen at houseColtness, and may the eithervillage retrace of Motherwell, his steps toor Hamil.by the illage of Wishawtown* Pronounced and Dalziel A iron Kirk. or Evan. Castle,’+ See inSir the Walter * Border Scott’s Minstrelsy.’ beautiful ballad, entitled, ‘ Cadyow 14 GUISE TO THE PICTURESQUE a title. It is an uninteresting building, but com- mandsAbout an a infinitely mile and-a-half finer prospect from Avonthan thebridge, palace.* the orchardroad to districtLanark ofturns Clydesdale, to the left,which and is entersenlivened the tryby numerousin this district splendid rises seats.gently fromThe faceboth of sides the coun-of the orchardsClyde, and and presentscoppice wood,a beautiful corn fields, intermixture and belts of forestClyde istrees. sheltered “ As by the the middle ascending part countryof the valeto the of proveeastward prejudicial from the to blaststhe early which blossoms from that upon quarter fruit- situationstrees, this isin considered Scotland forone orchards. of the most The favourable Clydes- thedale river orchards and thelie mouthmostly of between the South the Calder. lowest fallThey of pearare chiefly trees, andof applesome oftrees, plums. with Fewa large of themixture orchards of ferentare large; quarters, but many though small it is ones scarcely are planted supposed in thatdif- acres.they amountEven onto morethis favourable than between spot, 200however, and 300the theproduce fruit of being the orchard often destroyedis considered in the as blossomprecarious, by valuespring of frosts fruit and in thiscaterpillars. district hasIn beensome thoughtyears, the to tityamount of the to betweenfruit is said.£2000 to beand greatly £3000. increased,The quan- by * The village of Strathaven, gene rally pronounced Straven, enanters,and moorish. the wholeDot to of those th*- SCENERY OP SCOTEANB. 15 ■cultivatingit for a kitchen the groundgarden, aroundor the likethe trees,purposes.”* and using A practicechards. whichAmong seldom the finest obtains orchards in the areEnglish those or-of ; producesCambusnethan, ,£1200. the fruit of which in some seasons busnethanPassing Dalyellcastle, andmanse Garrion and Dalyell house, house,7 miles Cam- be- serf,yond embosomedHamilton, inthe the road midst enters of theorchards. village ofTo Dal- the . toleft the of theright village stands is DalserfMillburn house house; ; on anand, eminence on the I... oppositelatter edifice bank, was Brounlee built by and the Mauldslie Earl of Hyndfordf castle. The in 1793. It is 104 feet in length, and 58 in breadth ; ,,r andAdam is flankedof Edinburgh. by towers. Farther Its architect on is Milton, was Robert built ,Carfin, then all enters on the the northern planta- variety.tions of Stonebyres,The vale of which the Clyde are ofhas great now extentvery sensi- and blyand contracted,precipitous, the and banks the channelof the river more become rocky, broken while thecoming hollow in sightsounding of the roar fall ofof waterStonebyres, prepares the you lowest for ofClyde. the series “ The of threebanks,” which says compose Mr. Leighton, the Falls of“ theare thehere spectator quite perpendicular, finds himself and suddenly of great placed height; on andthis projectinghim. In front,point, withthe riveronly ais smallseen pouringtree to supportover a foam.height ofAs 80at thefeet, fall a ofsheet Corehouse, of white the andriver billowy makes chasmhere three below; distinct though leaps, when before it itis reaches large thisthe boilingis not observed,broken torrent. and the Thewater rocks is projected which overhang over in onethe un-fall arehad black,undergone wild, theand action rugged, of andfire; appear they areas iffringed they thewith majesty, trees, but of thosethese whichpossess overhang neither thethe beauty,othy falls. nor savageIndeed, aspect Stonebyres than either has a of much them. more The horrid, very dan-and geroustainly increasessituation thistoo, feeling;from which and theit is spectatorviewed, cer-can hardlyhe is so continue much excited, long to though contemplate certainly a scene possessing, where ingrounds a high on degree, both banks wild areaud more savage in agrandeur. state of nature, The than those either of Bonniton or Corehouse; and 18 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE nothing has been done to modify the original wild- veryness ofbrink the ofscene. the full,A millbut athas present been erected it seems on to thebe isunoccupied. generally viewed,It is possible,to descend from to the the bed place of the where river, it thisand thusis an to undertaking,go almost to thethe bottomhazard of of the which, fall; fewbut stepdare, would or indeed most oughtcertainly to risk,lead toas instantthe slightest death. falseYet saysit -would of this seem fall, that‘ it consists Pennant of twohad precipitousdescended. cata-He racts,bounded falling by lofty one aboverocks, theforming other aninto amazing a small theatrechasm, to thethe viewbottom.’ of those It whois not take uncommon the pains toto descendobserve heightsome quiet by which brother he ofis seen,the angle, almost diminished to the appearance by the slipperyof a pigmy, path, who plying has hisovercome rod in thethe dangersfoaming of abyss this orat thefury, bottom and apparently of the cataract, as unconcerned disregarding as if its he noisewere stream,following flowing his sport amid on richthe andbanks fertile of some meadows. silent canStonehyres ascend isin thethe greatestClyde. heightTheir toattempts which salmonduring andspawning amusing; season but to its overleap great height the fall, bailies are theirincessant ut- springingmost efforts. into Theythe air, are, their however, .bright seenscales continually glittering ragingin the pool,sunbeams, below andthe fall,”again falling back into the right,Returning Gillbank, to the Clydeville, high road, and and Kirkfield;passing, on andthe SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 19 Sunnyside on the left, the tourist crosses the Clyde by an old stone bridge of three arches. The road thenLanark, ascends 25 miles gently from for Glasgow, about a andmile, 32 andfrom reaches Edin- If the tourist wishes to visit the picturesque sceneryMouss, andof thethe nobleCartland bridge Crags, thrown upon over the this river pro- roadfound from chasm, Glasgow in order by toWishawtown complete the and new Carluke, line of hea littlemay beyonddo so before Sunnyside. entering These Lanark, craigs by theor cragsroad theseem river to have Mouss, been which formed has by worn the incessantthe rock actiondown ofto covereda depth withof 400huge feet. blocks The of bed stones, of thewhich stream appear is toside have the tumbled banks are from richly the impending clothed with rocks coppice ; on either and • pendantzag den’ shrubs.is difficult The and access'from hazardous. the topOn to arriving this ‘ zig- at repaidthe foot, for however, his exertions. the adventurous “ Rocks explorerin every fantasticis amply viewform, on and every precipices hand ; overhungand the beholder, with wood, like meet Sinbad the fromin the which Arabian there tale, is seemsno possible to have egress. got intoIn aexplor- valley theing successionthe recesses of of wild Cartland, and striking the varied scenery aspect, exhibited and ingeneral its many appearance windings, is calculatedadd greatly to toproduce. the effect Here its allvegetation is clothed of withwhich, lofty the trees, rocks amidst at intervals the luxuriant appear ; waving with brushwood. There, from the bed of 20 GUIDE TO THE PICTUBESQUE lichensthe stream, of every rises hue,a mural from precipice,which springs covered out with far inover one head, of its a fissures,small solitary and appearing tree, sown to bygrow the on wind the frombare surfacethe bottom of the of rock. the precipice, The water which seems appears to well to thebar alldell farther opens progress.up to one As side; we approach,and thus however, a new, butbend equally of the stream,interesting in scene one place is displayed bare jutting at everyrocks ingseem destruction almost to hangto all in beneaththe air far: in above, another threaten- yawn caveswith wildand flowersdeep recesses, of varied their shape dark and openings colour.”* hung in Theitself, town but ofit hasLanark been is greatly not a very improved interesting in appear- place publicance within buildings, these fewand years the extensionby the erection of the of severalcotton worksgood inns, in the and vicinity. had a populationIt is well of provided7085 souls with in from1831. theIt Clyde,stands from on awhich fine acclivity,it is distant rising about gently half- a-mile.Glasgow mayFrom be the counted belfry ofin thea clear steeple, day. the Aboutspires ofa ruinsquarter of of the a mileancient to the church eastward of Lanark. of the town, Here are theSir BlindWilliam Harry Wallace : first saw his wife, according to “ Apon a day to ye kirk as sche went, YeprentWallace hyrof luffhym saw, as hepunzett hys eyne at ye can last cast, WithSo asprely, gret unessthrouch in presencebewte offyat bid he brycht. micht. * Leighton.

22 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE partIn the of hisvicinity schemes is a have pretty been little renounced cascade ascalled visionary. Dun- lace’sdaff linn, chair; and traditions near it is ofa thatcurious hero rock are called rife in Wal- the neighbourhood. ingThe the tourist finer one should of Corra, visit Bonnitonthough the fall latter before is see-the pleasure-groundsnearer from New Lanark.of Bonniton, He proceedsby a romantic through path the overhangingof Corra is about the deepa mile bed above of the Lanark, stream. and The that fall of aboveBonniton the aBonniton mile above fall that the of Corra.stream isImmediately broad and east,placid, it butthrows making itself a suddenover a perpendicular bend towards therock north- of 30 feetFrom in height. the upper fall to the second, that of Corra, perpendicularthe river is confined rocks, inwithin some a placesnarrow exceeding bed between 100 rushesfeet in withheight. great Through noise and this fury, channel and precipitatesor gully it linnitself or from basin a heightwhich itof has about gradually 84. feet scoopedinto the out huge for theitself rocks in the so living as to rock. form three“ The distinct fall is interrupted leaps, which, by whenhowever, the areriver not is much flooded more by thanthe rains,perceptible, merge and,into onebasin, stupendous and encircling and uniformit entirely,—except sheet. Around a narrow the andpassage crags through of tremendous which the heightriver escapes,—precipices and uncommonly amphitheatre,picturesque appearance far more formmagnificent a kind ofthan vast any natural that could be produced by art or man’s device. The grandeursublimity of thethe surroundingfall, taken in objects—the connexion oldwith feudal the thecastle horrid of Corra, chasm on beneath,—the the very brink screaming of the precipice,— of water- thunderingcrows, plovers, sound and of otherthe cataract,—and tenants of the the rock,—the profusion of dark firs, hazels, and mountain-ashes, bending tremendousover the precipitous and pleasing, crags,—form and cannot a scene fail toat strike once an unaccustomedew of eyethe withfall is astonishment. caught in passing Many along a 1ie walks finest, in perhaps, Bonuiton though p’ a more distant one,by Sir is obtained James fromCarmichael the window of Bonuiton, of a pavilion in erected 1708. ofInstead the fall of mustthe perturbation create, the spectator which every can nearhere viewlook haveThis taken magnificent its name fallfrom is Corra,traditionally a daughter reported of one to ofhere the in ancient consequence kings of of Scotland, her horse who havingwas drowned taken 24 GUIDE TO SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 25 SECOND TOUR. FROM GLASGOW TO EDINBURGH. I. By Holytoun and Mid Colder: Camlachie—Park- head,Mid Colder, 8—Holytoun, 32—Hatton—Valmahoy—Edinburgh, 11—Half-way house, 22— —Airdrie,44 II. By 10J—Bathgate, Airdrie and Uphall: 24|—Uphall, Shettlestone, 30^— 3 gowEdinburgh, : Cumbernauld—Camelon—Falkirk, 42£ III. By Falkirk and Linlith-24J—. —IV.Linlithgow, By 29|—Kirkliston,the Forth and 38—Edinburgh,Clyde canal: Port 46 J j ofDundas—Lock Forth—Trinity No. chain-pier 16— Grangemouth, V. By 30—Friththe Union canal:aqueduct—Port The Tunnel—Avon Hopetoun, aqueduct—Slateford coachesI. There and mailsare three betwixt roads Glasgow usually andtravelled Edinburgh. by the ThatGlasgow commonly by the suburb called ofthe Camlachie; Mid Calder passes road leavesPark- fromhead andGlasgow Tolcross ; passes bar; successivelycrosses the throughCalder, 5the miles vil- fromlages Glasgowof Littleup, ; crosses 7 miles,—and the Shirle, Bellshill,and enters 9 Holy-miles totoun, the 11Kirk miles of from Shotts Glasgow. inn, a distance Fr0m ofthe 6 latter miles, town and fromGlasgow, that thisto theroad half-way is bleak house, and 22uninteresting, miles from crossingOne mile an beyond extensive the and half-way elevated house tract isof themoorland. vil'age ofLathbrae, Whitburn. Blackburn, Passing Seafield,successively Kirk-Livingston, the Swan inn, 26 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE ofand 32 Howden, miles from we Glasgow.reach Mid ThisCalder, is aat very the pleasingdistance hasvillage, a fine situated old church, on the in banksthe Gothic of the style. Almond. Close Itto thechen, village where is JohnCalder Knox house, preached the seat ofthe Lord doctrines Torphi- of Leavingthe Reformation Mid Calder for andthe crossingfirst time the in Almond the parish. at a and,very atinteresting the distance point, of 3 wemiles pass from West Mid Cocksiedean, Calder, the oldHatton, mansion-house the younger of brother Hatton, of so the called infamous from DukeLord aof mile Lauderdale, of Hatton whose is Dalmahoy seat it was. house, Within the seat less of than the inclosedEarl of parkMorton. of above It is400 situate acres. inThe the groundsmidst of arean picturesquediston, Kiccarton, and well Long worth Herdmanston, visiting. PassingGogar bank, Ad- entersSaughton Edinburgh hall, Gorgie by the mills, west and end Dairy, of West the Maitland traveller byII. Airdrie Of the and three Uphall coach is the roads shortest. to Edinburgh, The first thattwo milesShettlestone, are on the 3 miles same fromline withGlasgow, the above. this road Near leaves to pellier,the Mid and Calder Langloan, road. Passingit crosses Rhinsdale, the Monkland Drum- burghcanal at of Coat Airdrie bridge, is a 2f thriving miles fromand populousAirdrie. town,The situatedThe country on a aroundrising ground,is rather between bleak andtwo moorish.rivulets. ThreeCalder water,miles andfrom then Airdrie passes thea large road artificial crosses sheet the SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 27 ofreservoir water coveringto feed somethe canal.hundred From acres, thiscollected to West as a PassingCraigs inn Armadale the country inu, is21 verymiles bleak from andGlasgow, moorish. we andreach 18 the from town Edinburgh. of Bathgate On24j amiles rising from ground Glasgow, above publicthe town academy is an elegant for the'children building recently of parents erected residing as a inMr. Bathgate, Newlands and of handsomely Jamaica, a endowednative of by Bathgate. the late TheEdinburgh. next stageThe isHon. Uphall Henry inn, Erskine, 12 miles and Lordfrom .Erskine,ments of histhe brother,bar within two the of recollection the brightest of many,orna- are both buried in Uphall kirk. Passing the village ofMilburn Broxburn, to the Kilpunt, right, we Newliston reach Corstorphine on the left, village and preparationwithin 4 miles of milkof Edinburgh, called Corstorphine and once famouscream. forThe a churcha Jerusalem is a very cross. venerable It was inGothic ancient pile times in the collegiate. form of ’ familyThere inare it. some From old thismonuments point the of roadthe continuesForrester alongthickly the adorned south sidewith of fine Corstorphine villas, and hill,commands which isa thevery Pentlands.pleasing prospect A little of thebeyond country Colt to bridge,the foot the of roadIII. joins The line third I. andand enters longest Edinburgh. coach-route betwixt kirkGlasgow and Linlithgow.and Edinburgh This is route,by Cumbernauld, however, presents Fal- lofthe ocenery greatest andattraction antiquities. to the tourist,Leaving both Glasgow in respect by GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE the High street and Duke street, and Bridewell, the mill,road Frankfieldcrosses the house, Monkland Christon canal, village, passes Bedlayinn, Provan ofMallanburn, Cumbernauld, and 14milesfromCondorrat, and Glasgow. reaches Thisvillage the village ais finerather old woodpicturesquely in the neighbourhood. situated, and thereCumbernauld is some countryinn is about inns a in mile Scotland. farther on.At Castlecary,It is one ofwhere the best the ofroad a firstlioman crosses camp the ; canal,but the there antiquary are some will vestiges find amplerscope for research and imagination atCamelon a-milea village of aboutwhich, l£to milethe north-west, from Falkirk, Vespasian within is halfsaid atto haveleast foundedS miles adistant city and from sea-port. this spot,The but sea isboats, now upanchors, here. andAs otherto the nautical city, there vestiges is no tra.cehave ofbeen it, savedug siderablea small fragment and an ancient of ruined town, wall. the capitalF'alkirk of ais district a con-, culturalcontaining annals above for 30,000 its trysts souls or ; cattle-fairs,and famous of in which agri- thereFalkirk are is threea modern held building.annually. OnThe pulling church down of wasthe oldfound edifice, with which an stoodinscription on the purporting same spot, athat stone it hadIn thebeen church-yard founded by Malcolmare the Canmore,graves of A. Sir D. John1057. tleStewart of Falkirk, and Sir fought John Graham,in 1293. whoThe fellmonument in the bat- of thescription latter stands has been thus: repeatedly renewed.—The in- asassssaagitfsssw whoThe was monument killed in theof secondSir Robert battle Munro of Falkirk, of Foulis, 17th

bleStirling battlements Castle, whoseare easily antiquated distinguished towers and in venera-a clear 30 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE mitwest, of beyond Benlomond. the infant Looking Forth, isnorthward the towering there sum- is theseen, Carse, at one thicklyglance, studdedthe rich withand extensivevillages and valley scat- of industry;tered dwellings, the majestic the comfortable Forth, withabodes the of tradetowns and of theCulross, opposite Kincardine, shore ; and, Clackmannan, receding from and it, theAlloa, finely on cultivatedImmediately country beneath reaching is Falkirk, to the and,foot ofbeyond the Ochils. it, the celebratedvolumes of Carron smoke Works,perpetually distinguished ascending by thefrom thick its onfurnaces. the shores At of the the farthest Forth, extremitythe masts ofof the the shipping valley, down,point outon thatthe harbour point of of land Grangemouth where the ;river and, disap-lower pearsNorth from of the the vale sight, will is be seen observed that of a Borrowstowness. tract of ground, themclothed a numberwith woods of elegant and plantations, houses. The and eastmost amongst of sivelythese isextending that of the westward, Earl of are Dunmore Stenhouse, ; and belonging succes- tothe Sir Abyssinian William Bruce;traveller; Kinhaird, Carron the Hall patrimony (Dundas, of eminence,Esq.), and directly Carron inPark front, ( Caddell, is the villageEsq.); ofand Larbert, on the conspicuousHouse, the forseat a ofnew Sir Gothic Gilbert church Stirling, ; and LarbertBart.”* north-west,In the neighbourhood are the famous of Falkirk, Carron 2 Ironmiles Works.to the Ninians,About 4 ismiles the Torwood, from Falkirk, supposed on tothe be roadthe remains to St. * ‘The Scottish Tourist.' Edinburgh : Stirling & Kenney. SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 31 of the great Caledonian Forest. Upon the banks of thefamous Carron ‘ Arthur’s in the parish oven,’ of about Larbert, which once antiquaries stood the usedan end to toquarrel further so controversyfiercely, until about the itproprietor by pulling put it down!within theIn thegrounds vicinity of ofCallander, Falkirk, andare especiallyextensive remainsbetwixt theof Frithsthe great of ClydeHoman and wall Forth, which and extendedof which a minute survey is given in ‘ Roy’s Military Anti- quities.’Clyde, to Caerriden,Its length onfrom the Old Forth, Kirkpatrick, was 39,726 on Ro-the measurementman paces, which of 36 agreesmiles, 620nearly yards with .f the modern theLeaving grounds Falkirk, of Callander the road throughto Edinburgh a very passes fine villageavenue ofof Laurieston,trees. Within and a mile beyondof Falkirk it that is the of Lothian,Polmont. andCrossing soon after, the the Avon ancient water town we enterof Linlith- West gow.royal burghOne ofnow the extant. best specimens Linlithgow of an is quiteold Scottish classic groundtalks very with rapturously antiquaries. about Our it. friend“ To Chambersany one,” saysantiquities he, “ possessedof Scotland, of a taste,or who for themay history entertain and romanticno higher notions treat than regarding that which both, isI couldto be recommendgained by a palace,leisurely its inspectionentire old church,of Linlithgow. its grotesque Its well) ruined and objectsno less thanupon all,which its delightfulI could write old-fashioned volumes, and self, upon are f Sec ‘ Steam Boat Pocket Guide,’ p. 11. 32 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE which very good volumes might be written. The general,houses of tall,which dark, the mainold -fashioned,street is composed and decayed; are, in somewhatCannongate like of Edinburgh.the old fabrics As whichin the composecase of thatthe celebratedformerly belongedpurlieu, manyto the of thenobility houses attendingof Linlithgow the simplicitycourt; and, of as former such, presenttimes, asa curiouswell as picturea melancholy of the delineationMuch, however, of the as tendencywe admire of Linlithgow,all things to the decay. fact thesecannot interesting be disguised, old edificesthat of havelate years,been plucked not a few from of handsometheir situations, edifices to of makea modern way cast—likefor common-place good old thingsteeth replaced of yellow in the bone—and human gums that, by amongst round unnaturalthe most onedappalling the renewal,instances some of such years Gothicism, ago, of the is houseto be reck-from objectwhich ofthe attraction Regent Murrayin Linlithgow Was shot.” is the palace.The prime "0/all the palaces so fair. In Scotland,Built for farthe beyond royal dwelliicompa AndLinlithgow in its park, isin excelling; jovial Jun< To see a scene so gay.” upwardsThe palaeb of an isacre a ofquadrangular ground. Externally edifice covering it pre- andsents narrowness rather a heavy of the appearance windows opening from theto thefewness out- SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. side—a precaution for defence ; but the internal remainscourt is veryof a beautifulfine. Its stone centre fountain is occupied built bywith James the beenV., which made youron certain cicerone festive will occasions probably toassure spout you claret. has ofThe the west building, side of and the probablypalace is indicatesthe most theancient site of part the towerter of orthe fort palace built the here visitor by Edward will be I.shown In thisthe quar-room inImmediately which the beneathunfortunate thiti apartmentQueen Mary is awas miserable born. littleJames vault III., which when isin said danger to have of assassinationafforded shelter from to roomsome isof a smallhis unruly but beautiful barons. apartmentThe king’s commanding dressing- .arecently delightful undergone view of somethe lake. very Thistasteful apartment and appro- has priateA small repairs apartment by order called of Queenthe barons Margaret’s of exchequer. Bower willThe likewiseeastern sidebe speciallyof the quadrangle pointed out is the to themost visitor. orna- mented.Parliament It hall.contains The a nobleRoyal apartment chapel occupied called the north-eastsouth side ofcorner. the building. The north The side kitchens is the most were recent. in the wasIt was devastated built by byJames fire inVI. 1746. This On beautiful the night building of the 31stRoyal of arnvy,January then that marching year, “about westwards a thousand to meet of the Hawley’sChevalier, dragoonp,lay upon whostraw had in but these a foHnight princely beforehalls. reposedspent heYe in the the- splendid night ofdining-room their disgrace which at occupiedPalkirk, 34 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE hasthe secondalways flat hitherto of this been portion stated, of outthe ofbuilding. tenderness It tal.to these On dastardly the contrary, rascals, it wasthat perfectlythe fire was wilful. acciden- In the deputy-keepermorning, when of they the Palace,were preparing an old Jacobite to depart, lady throwingof the name the of ashes Gordon, of the observedfires into thethem straw deliberately whereon thethey redoubted had lain; Hawley,and she to went desire to that their he commander,would inter- generalfere to prevent at first the turned conflagration a deaf ofear the to Palace. her remon- The avowedstrances, that but finally,he would on nother carebecoming though importunate, his fellows accursed‘ should burn’race of so Stuart. execrable 1 Weel, a monument weel, then, of gene- the atral,’ the cried same the time old trottingdame, with off, ‘exquisite I ken what sarcasm, to do inand a fire,rin awa as weel/’ The as onyinfamous officer scoundrels in your army—I’ll left the Palace just intinued, a blaze what that it morningnow is, a ; blackenedand it has ruin.”’ ever since con- oneNext of the in finestimportance specimens to the of Palaceits species is the of architec-Church, tureeast toextant west, in and Britain. 100 in breadth.Itis 182 feetThe in lengthsteeple fromter- foundedminates inby anDavid imperial I. the crown. great churchThis church builder was of inScotland. use, but isThe tolerably western well division, preserved. or chancel,Perhaps is notthe spotsouth of aisle, greatest in which, interest as traditionto the visitor and history will be unite the * Chambers’s * Picture of Scotland. ’ Vol. 11, p, 30. SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 35 in affirming, the celebrated apparition appeared to fatalJames enterprise IV. before which that terminated monarch setin theforth battle on the of LindsayFlodden. of WePitscottie. shall relate “ The the king story came in the to Liwords thgow, of verywhere sad he andhappened dolorous, to bemaking for the his time devotion at the council,to God, toIn sendthis himmeantime, good chance there andcame fortune a man inclad his in voyage. a blue gownroll of in linen at the cloth; kirk-door, a pair and of brotikinsbelted about (buskins) him a hoseupon andhis feet,cloth toconform the great thereto of his ; legsbut ;he with had allnothing other andon his on head,his haffets but syde (cheeks), (long) whichred yellow wan hairdown behind, to his shoulders;seemed to bebut a manhis forehead of two-and-fifty was bald andyears, bare. with He a amonggreat pike-staff the lords, in crying his hand, and andspelring came forfirst the forward king, last,saying, he hecame desired where to the speak king with was him. sitting While, in the at desk the himat his little prayers reverence : but whenor salutation, he saw the but king, leaned he downmade thisgrofling manner, on the as deskafter follows.before him, ‘ Sir and king, said my to motherhim in time,hath sentwhere me you to you,are purposed desiring ;you for not if thou to pass, does, at thou this 'wiltpasseth not with fare thee. well inFurther thy journey, she bade northee noneiriell withthat nothy woman, body, nor nor thou use theirtheirs; counsel, for, if nor thou let themdo it, touch thou manwilt behad confounded spoken these and words brought unto to shame.’the king’s By grace, this GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE the even-song was near done, and the king paused on thethir meantime,words, studying before to thegive king’shim an eyes, answer and ; but,in the in time,presence this of man all thevanished lords thataway, were and about could himno ways for the be beenseen ora blink comprehended, of the sun butor a vanished whip of awaythe whirlwind, as he had andLindsay, could lyon-herald, no more be seen.and John I heard Inglis, say. the Sir marshal, David vantswho were to the at thatking’s time grace, young were men standing and special presently ser- thisbeside man, the king,that andthey thought might tohave have speired laid hands further on tidingstouch him at him; for : heBut vanished all for nought;away betwixt they them,could andnot The Cross well, in front of the Town house, is a nallyvery beautifulbuilt in 1620;piece ofthe architecture. present edifice, It erectedwas origi-t in 1805,Leaving is a fac-simile Linlithgow, of the the old road building. crosses the line of theWinchburgh,—near Union Canal,—passes to the through10th mile the stone village from of jectEdinburgh of considerable passes thehistorical ruins ofinterest,—and Niddry castle, two an miles ob- beydnd,Edward itI. entersencamped the villagebefore theof battleKirkliston, of Falkirk where in river1298. Almond,At the 7thwhich milestone divides theMid road Lothian crosses from the fromWest Corstorphine.Lothian, and soon after joins the line of road this* Themost reader poetic will legend scarcely is introduced need to be in reminded * Marmion.* how skilfully SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 37 familiesIV. Many of children, tourists, prefer especially canal those conveyance travelling betwixt with 'I thedifferent two canalcities. lines We betwixt shall Glasgowtherefore and trace Edinburgh. the two vellersOne of wishingthese is byto theavail Forth themselves and Clyde of canal.this convey- Tra- ancefor Edinburgh will proceed thrice to Port a-day. Dundas, The whence following boats objects start arethis amongstroute. Onthe thefirst right which the presentextensive themselves foundries onof makingMessrs. aBaird, rapid turnon the to leftthe right,Springbank Kelvinside village ; ;a aftermile branchesbeyond this, off tothe Bowling great arm bay;* of theLambhill canal house;which house;Kenmuir Bel house I field ; Caldercottage; church Westfield; and manse the ;town Glorat of fameKirkintilloch, in the annals recently of the investedcholera; Broomhill;with a melancholy Wood- burnMarquis ; the of villageMontrose of defeatedKilsyth, Generalnear to whichBaillie, thein a1645 sanguinary ; Craigmarloch battle foughtwood ; onBantin the 15th; Netherwood of August, ; muir,Castlecary celebrated ; Underwood in the annals ; Dennyloanhead; of radicalism!; Bonny- bridgechurch ; ofDunipace Larbert; ; LockMountriddle No. 16—At ; the this village point and the travellerGlasgow, leavesand has the his boat choice in ofwhich walking he orcame proceed- from toing be by resolvedanother boaton proceedingto Grangemouth—supposing to Edinburgh by himthis theline. village The ofroad Camelon to Grangemouth already noticed proceeds ; on through the left * ‘ Steam Boat Pocket Guide,’ p. 10. 38 GUIBI; TO THE PICTURESQCE andis Carron Callander Park house.; on the Proceedingright, the town onwards, of Falkirk, a fine awayview isinto obtained the extreme of the distanceCarse of on Falkirk the right; stretching and on reachingthe left arethe neatseen littlethe Carronport of IronGrangemouth,* Works. theOn touristto be rowed will probablyto the steamer have to at embark some distance.in a ferry boatThe hebanks is now of the embarked Carron, present on the anyestuary thing of butwhich a pastoral stream appearancemud and slime, when and the tidetotally is low,destitute being of covered vegetation. with beautiful,On getting and fairly its bejutties into the expand frith therapidly view upon is very the nesssight. and On Grangemouth, the south are theKinniel ports house,of Borrowstow- and Airth castle,castle; andon thethe oppositevillages ofside Torryburn of the frith and is TullyallanNewmills. ' villageA little offurther Limekilns, on the northbeyond side which of the is ForthBroomhall, is the yondthe noble this seatpoint, of isthe Blackness Earl of Elgincastle, ; Abercornon the left, kirk, be- descriptionand Hopetoun of thehouse. scenery The of following the upper enthusiastic part of the frithMagazine’ of Forth for isOctober, taken from 1834. an articleThe readerin ‘ Fraser’s will, voyaginghowever, inplease the oppositeto bear directionin mind fromthat thatthe whichwriter he is now“ The holds; sun isnamely, verging up towards the river the towards west, and Stirling. casts downThe Forth, his golden now widening,rays upon nowthe narrowing,far-off Grampians. assumes * This port was founded by Sir Lawrence Dundas in 1777. SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 39 the appearance of a lake; of which the banks are overhungwood and theon eitherrichest hand pasturage. with theHere most lie theluxuriant lordly ficent,seat and but grounds scarcely of Hopetoun,less striking, there residence the less magni-of the beginMurrays. to pushAnd themselves now, as weforward advance, on ourthe sight—Ochils thehills green of Cumbernauld and beautiful and Ochils; rearward while the leftward Lomonds the placeRich, us too, within is thean amphitheatrescene in legendary of exquisite wealth: beauty. for thereits ruined is scarce fortalice; a promontory while in which the back-ground,does not support ail thatHowj;lorious remains of is thethat Tor sunset! Wood wavesWe are to approaching the breeze. quarter;Alloa. Clackmannanthe Ochils, feathered Tower isto onhalf our their starboard ascent, haveStirling’s closed romantic in upon town, us; andsloping right upwards a-head asstands if to lie.meet Richthe castle, and underfertile whosefields protectionare on either it seems hand, to tuousthrough course; which and the over Forth the winds whole her is poureddark and a gushtor- ofseems mellowed to rest uponlight thefrom summit the broadof Benlomond. red orb, whichTalk of the valleysBay of ofNaples, the Tyrol, or of of any the otherLake continentalof Geneva, neverscene !did we our tell eyes you rest that upon we a have spectacle seen sothem magni all, ticent and seemas that to which be on isfire,—a now before darker us. shade The is mountain-topscast upon the wards,plain; see,that the we sun’s may disk emerge is sinking. from thisOnwards, screen on- of ; foliage which stands between us and his parting 40 GUIDE TO TOE PICTURESQUE andsmile! the sky,Shall which we notwas brightsucceed? as burnishedNo, he isgold gone', but purplea moment hue. ago, Twilight has already comes assumed over us,—or,a darker asand the a ing,—renderingScotch call it, gloaming, objects more soft, andsweet, more exquisite confused, gloam- yet stillnot diminishingis the air! there aught is fromnot a theirbreath beauty. moving, How and callthe youriver that, before the usAbbey is smooth Tower asof aCambuskenneth? mirror. What once—all sumptuousthat fervent abbey but of rude Cambuskenneth!” hands have left Between of the friththe villages contracts of toNorth the breadth and South of about Queensferry 2 miles. theIn garvie.the middle Above of this North strait Queensferry is the fortified is liosyth islet of castle,Inch- nowQueensferry in ruins; is Dundasand on castle,an eminence the original near seatSouth of theDundas family of thatof Dundas,Ilk. Further and on,still upon the theresidence northern of side,shore, the is bayDalgetty and town church, of Aberdour, and in succession, and the islandHill- fineof Inchcolm.* wooded point, On to thethe westsouth of side which of theis the frith estuary is a villasof the nowAlmond. line theA coast succession to the Trinityof elegant chain-pier. marine Granton,Among these Caroline are: Park,Lauriston and Iloyston Castle, castle.Muirhouse, The feetTrinity long, chain-pier 4 feet wide, was and erected 10 feet in above 1821. highIt iswater 700 mark.tendance Coaches to convey and passengers omnibuses and are luggagealways inup at-to visible,* The was monastery founded ofin Inchcolm,1123 by Alexander the ruins I. of which are still SCENEEV OF SCOTLAND. 41 the city. The total distance hy this route is 54 ' V. The distance between Glasgow and Edinburgh bysame the as Union that just Canal indicated is 57£ upmiles. to LockThe No. route 16 inis the vicinityeffects a of junction Falkirk. with At the this Forth point andthe ClydeUnion canalscanal passage-boatsby a series of do11 notlocks of descendingcourse pass 110through feet. theseThe locks,the series but theto the passengers other, where walk theyfrom embarkthe one endon the of (Unionelevated canal. and commands The line anoble of the view. canal Itis soonhere enters very a tunnel of 796 yards in length, cut in the solid passesrock; emergingMuiravonside from mansethis subterranean and church, passage, and soon it afterby a nobleis carried aqueduct. over the The beautiful canal glenthen ofproceeds the Avon by latterLinlithgow, village makingWinchburgh,^and a very circuitous Broxburn; bend of at about the bya mile another and a noblehalf. aqueduct.It then crosses Beyond the Almond this, on river the left,is Ratho is Cliftonhall; village; aboutand beyond 7J miles it, from in Edinburghsuccession, GogarBaberton, Burn Hales, aqueduct, Dreghorn, Long Colinton Hermiston house, village,Craig- lockhartthe canal castle, is carried and Slateford.across the waterAt the of latter Leith village by a magnificenting distance aqueductto Edinburgh—24 of nine arches. miles—is The through remain- a ruralterminates and pleasingly at Fort cultivatedHopetoun, district.in the immediateThe canal vicinitystreet on of the the other. meadows on one hand and Prince’s GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE THIRD TOUR. GLASGOW TO STIRLING AND THE TROSACHS. Different routes indicated: Stirling, 27—Bannock- —burn—Dunblane—Bridge Callander, 43 J—Lochlubnaig—Benledi—Loch of Allan—Donne, 36 LochVennachoir—Glenfinglas—The Katrine—Route to Inversnaid Trosachs, on oljLoch — andLomond Drymen. indicated—Route by Aberfogle, Gartmore, Thebe are several distinct routes from Glasgow to thatIn theregion ‘ Western of romance Tourist’s and beauty—the Steam-hoat Trosachs. Pocket inGuide’—to the course which of the we present have made Guide, frequent and which reference is in volume—wefact an almost have indispensable pointed out companion at p. 31 theto this route little to , bythe LochTrosachs Lomond, by Dumbarton and Rowardennan. ; and at p. 37We another shall nowtourist trace may a veryproceed favourite to that route town by either Stirling. by coachThe anddirect from from thence Glasgow; by coach; or by orthe from canal Grangemouth, to Castlecary, tourby the we steamerhave pointed from out Edinburgh. the principal In objects our worthysecond Castlecarythe attention is of11 milesthe tourist distant up fronato all Stirling.these points— The interestingroad betwixt district these oftwo country, points passesthroughembracing the villagea very ofliannockburn. St. IS’inian’s nearThe distanceto which of is Grangemouththe famous field from of routesStirling the is 27tourist miles hasby water.to choose Between in travelling these two SCENEEY OF SCOTLAND. 43 wayStirling. thither, We and shall take suppose up our him office to haveas cicerone made hisin thatStirling fair town. is a town of about 9000 inhabitants. In externalThe streets appearance are narrow, it greatly and resemblesthe houses Edinburgh. not very handsome.by the Piets. TheIt wasCastle the isrendezvous said to have of thekeen Scottish built 9tharmy century which defeatedIt became the Danesa royal at residenceLunoarty inin the the12th. birth-placeof It was the James favourite 11., whoseabode memoryof James isstained I.; and ownby a handmurder on thewhich earl heof Douglas.perpetrated Here here toowith James his Mary,IV. was crowned; born; Jamesand James V., andVI. theeducated unfortunate by his sternsouth-east preceptor, part ofBuchanan. the fortress; The it waspalace built occupies by J ames the onV. theThe south oldest side portion of the of square. the castle From is the the buildings Castle hillScotland one of is theobtained. finest andOn mostthe north celebrated are the views ‘links in kirkof'Forth,’ are called, as the and windings in the background,through the incarse this of direc- Fal- tion,the west the isfine the mountain-rangevale of Menteith, of bounded the Ochils. by rugged On mountains,The Campsie amongst hills bound which theBenledirises horizon on conspicuous. the south; farto the atf east,Edinburgh. if the day Thebe clear, lively the writer eye is incarried Fraser, as mouthwhose description we have quoted of the inFrith the scenery preceding above tour, Grange- thus pWnt:resumes “ hisW e officenever ofdid landscape behold any amateur portion from of low-this 44 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE landThat sceneryplain worthytowards of the being east, compared traversed with by this. the fertility‘ windings all of that the ourForth,’ imagination surpasses had in beautyconceived; and therewhile westward,is more of if wood,there bewith somewhat a boundary less of inwater, the moreGrampians striking. than Still, which you nature must pardon never usformed if we add,any usthat, with beautiful the same as thetumultuous panorama sensations is, it does whichnot affect we experiencedWe feel now likeduring men our who passage gaze upon from one Newhaven.of Claude’s rather'landscapes; than pleased,agitated. yet Thennot violentlywe were so—soothedentranced. toNo the doubt, north the is light something and shade not onto thosebe equalled green else-hills cloudswhere. rollSee onwards—now how the hues this vary ridge as the is inthin shadow,' whitel mid-daynow that; sun and falls anon strongly the fullover yellowboth. Andblaze then,of the as range,our vision from sweeps lordly eastward,Kier to Alva along in thethe basedistance, of the it mixtureis impossible of woodto deny and that water, a more of exquisitecorn-field inter- and scatteredpasturage, villages, of gentlemen’s never wooed seats, the eyefarm of -houses, the traveller and grantto pause that in we its never wanderings. did behold Therefore a parallel weto whatreadily is hereof Stirling ; and asshould readily be perceiveproud of why their the town good andpeople its localities.what. You But are wenot have entirely mistaken swayed the by matter a considera- some- tionfor yourof external amor patruc—to beauty. beYou sure have you other have. reasons You SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 45 lirewhich in isthe sanctified midst of by things its association and places, with every the eventsone of ' example,of the olden for time.ages theThere favourite lies the hunting-ground King’s Park, for of ofthe the Scottish castle monarchs;rock, is the andKing’s nearer Knot, still, their at the amphi- base thetheatre rude when sports they of their found lieges, it convenient their terraced to witnessgarden thewhen rock they itself, chose too, to is be the alone. valley, Uponthe arena the elbowof many of j: thea knightly Lady’s Hill,joust uponand mortal which duel;fair dames while havebeyond often is Isatthe toguerdon watch theof aprogress scarf, and of thetheir strife, own and sweet to bestowsmiles, uponscenes the and victor. such times—nowPleasant is thatthe recollection they are gone, of such and arepleasant, standing, too, themonarchs thought and that their even peers here, have where stood; we tonot hold to idle counsel time onaway, grave as mattersyou and of we state, are doing,and to hutlay planstake our for word their forown it, aggrandisement. good burgher, that Yet these you things may mayare pleasant be on which only inwe idea;are fallen, and that, they evilare asa thousand the days timesThe readerbetter thanwill thoseAnd ofmuch Scotland’s amusing independence.” antiquarian gossip< Picture about of StirlingScotland.’ and Heits vicinityought alsoin Chambers’s to possess himselfquities of of the one place, of the if hecheap means local to guidesmake an to extensivethe anti- inspectionThe field of of its Bannockburncuriosities. to the south-west of battleSt. Kinian’s of Bannockburn will be visited was fought with oninterest. Monday The the 46 PICTURESQUE in24th a line of June,extending 1314. in aBruce’s north-easterly forces weredirection stationed from blythe Bannockin the line to of the the village present of Saintwood Ninian’s,from Stirling proba- to pitchedKilsyth.* is stillThe shown spot where on a thesmall royal eminence standard called was groundBrock's 1 braen front to theof south-westBruce’s line of was St. partNiniaif of s.a parkThe 1 To rightward of the wild affl-ay. The But,held inshow’d mid-space, fair and the level Bruce’s way care; WithHad bored turf and the brushwoodground with hidden many yet. a pit. Bushing,That form’dten thousand a ghastly horsemen snare. came, ■WithThat spears panted in rest, for theand shockhearts 1 on flame WithAnd trumpet-clang blazing crests and clamourbanners spread.dread. The wide plain ’ithii;thunder’d to their tread. HorsemanDown ! down and ! horse,in headlong the foremost overthrow. go. The Wildfirst arefloundering in destruction's on the gorge,field! TheirThe followers knightly wildly helm o’er and them shield, urge j— StrongThet hand, high Of dying warriors i veils on high. They -torrent r ThatThey Ithunders o’er its rocky bed; Billows rtallow’d billows by burst a darksome and boil, ca- AndMai leiring stillwild the and stern tortured turmoil, gro A visit to Dumiat or Demyat, the loftiest of tbt » See Note to ‘ Lord of the Isles.’ (Last edit.) p. 336.

48 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE betwixtand romantic.* the earl ofSheriffmuir, Mar and thethe dukescene of of Argyle, the battle in 1715,Roman is 2camp miles of east Ardoch by north is 6 ofmiles Dunblane. north-east The of length,Dunblane by 900on thein breadth, road to Perth.and might It haveis 106(1 contained feet in 26,000By proceedingmen. from Dunblane to the village of intoDoune, the aline distance of road of usually 4 miles, pursued the tourist from willStirling fall returnedto the Trosachs.f to Dunblane If, fromhowever, the pointsthe tourist just indi-has cated,Aberfoyle he may or nowDoune. set outThe to thelatter Trosachs, road isjtke either c: by theriage north road. of theIt crossestown, whence the Forth a 6ne by view the is bridge obtained lookingwe pass downthe road the leading river. toAbout Blair 2 Logie,miles andforward, at 9 littleLord Abercrombie.distance, on theA right,mile farther Airthrey, on is thethe seatBridge of byof Allan,visitors a inbeautiful the summer-season. little village muchThe frequentedroad now ascendsvalley of and the commands Forth from a charming Gartmore view to of theStirling. great » The fnllowing is the result of an analysis of the Dunblane gravity of thiters, by Dr.rs Murray, 1 ( of^Edinburgh.it of it wasThe foun specific wing salts ... 24

J ..ne of road from o Dumbartonh and passing by throughthe southern Kippen ve rge and of Dryinen. the great vale c A tittle beyond the Bridge of Allan, the tourist approachingpasses Lecroft the church village and of entersDoune, Perthshire. the castle Onof that nan by fluencesquare huiof the Ardoch and Teith. It i castletury bywas t occupied by S Ghlunne F'Dhu,*prince nephewall 'the timeof Rob he wasRoy, absem who 1 ling.Highlar ' “ Doune- s in c:England, although so ne! 'whichlong the derives property from of it thetl noble family i «f■Doune. Scotland, Most will readers remember of the 1 balladesque, ofand the affecting death of thestanza, 4 Bonny which F ( » imm 50 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE manor,The village the of Edmondstones Doune, which oflies Cambus-Wallace.in the immediate inneighbourhood former times of distinguished the castle, is notedby a manufactoryfor having been of ' byHighland no means pistols. very Itsprepossessing, general appearance, was greatly which im- is ’parish-churchproved, in the inyear the 1820, Gothic by style,the erection with a handsomeof a new i|tower. which is Forparticularly this useful worthy public of noticework, onthe account pulpit of constructed,the chaste beauty the parishioners of the Gothic'taste were indebted in which to it the is parish.”Earl of Moray,The road patron continues and chief from heritorDoune ofalong the castle,the northern the magnificent banks of seatthe Teith,of Sir Johnpassing Macgregor Lanrick fartherMurray, by and this Cambusmore.route,” says Mr.“Before Graham, we “proceed it may ble,not bethat uninteresting the author toof notice,the Lady that ofit appearsthe. Lake proba-j first imbibedHighlands, his whichtaste hefor hasthe so sublime felicitously scenery pourtrayed, of the isin said,the vicinity that in hisof the juvenile spot where days, hewe delighted now stand. to passIt someNewton months, and Cambusmore. for several summers, Here, onat thethe housesoutskirts of eyeof Benvorllch on the west, and and Ua-var, within withan easy Benledi ride of full the in won- his poeticders of imaginationLoch Katrine, with he the might sublime, have satiatedin external his nature;Celtic character.” and with theThis heroic, account in the is coiToboratedstudy of ancient by whatnotice Sirto theWalter last editionhimself of says the ‘ inLady his ofintroductory the Lake.’ SCENER'S OF SCOTLAND. 51 “ I had also read a good deal, seen much, and heard habitmore, ofof spendingthat romantic some country,time every where autumn; I was and in the 1 scenery of Loch Katrine was connected with the recollectiontion of former of days.many aThis dear poem,friend the and action merry of expedi- which layprinted among on scenesmy recollections, so. beautiful, was and a labourso deeply of love,im- anddents it introduced.”was no less so to recall the manners and inci- turesqueCallander village, is an anduncommonly has, moreover, beautiful a very and goodpic- jinn,a day, at ifwhich at all we convenient, would advise and theemploy tourist himself to spend in ivisitingthe Bridge the ofCraig Bracklinn, of Callander, the Pass the ofHoman Leney, camp, and 'Lochlubnaig.along the north-east The latterbase ofsheet Benledi, of water commencing extends aboutsays Mr. 3 milesLeighton, north-west “ nearly of 5J Callander. miles in length, “ It butis,” ingis scarcely from halfCallander, a mile thein breadth traveller at anyapproaches part. Go-the lakethe ancientthrough almostthe celebrated inaccessible Pass entrancesof Leney, toone the of the.Highlands. banks of Athe road stream, has whichnow been flows formed from Loch-along evenlubnaig yet ; abut few such men ismight the nature maintain of the the ground, pass against that arrestsan army. the attentionThe splendid of the scenery,traveller; however, and his alonetaste iswood, gratified river, with and allwaterfall, the variety can thatcombine mountain, and present rock, pass,to form Lochlubnaig the picturesque. comes intoAfter sight, issuing and fromhere the 52 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE andbest viewbold andof it ruggedis obtained. appearance From of the the great mountains height, bedded,amidst whichthe scenery this whichnarrow, surrounds winding it islake exceedingly lies im- andstriking. that portionBenledi of isit herewhich a mostoverhangs prominent and darkens object, singularthe waters appearance. of the lake, At exhibits some remote' a grand period, but very the andmountain the enormous seems to fragments have been scattered broken over in that at the direc- top, tionformer down world. its side,Armandave, li^e the debris Ardchullerie or the ruins Beg, ofand a giantArdchulierie forms in More, frowning at different majesty distances, above the raise lake, their and grandeurthrow their is thebroad characteristic dark shadows of the overscenery k. aroundStern aLochlubnaig; sense of utter imposing loneliness silence enters reigns into thearound very ; souland toof thehave beholder. taken up hisThe abode. genius Aboutof solitude half wayseems up here the deredeast side peculiarly of the lake interesting, stands Ardchullerie as having house,been many ren- yearsbrated the traveller. residence Inof Brucethis retired of Kinnaird, spot, amidthe cele-the hestern, wrote majestic the account features ofof naturehis travels; which and it presents,here he whichfound antheir asylum publication from thebrought abuse uponand persecutionhim. He bywas his charged contemporaries; with falsehood but time, and andmisrepresentation the travels o4 theothers, aspersions have cleared with whichthe honest he was fame loaded; of Bruce and fromhave confirmedmay be as muchthe observation, displayed inthat scepticism ignorance as and in open- folly SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 53 wemouthed are again wondering among credulity.the scenery Atof SirLochlubnaig Walter’s thePoem influence of the Ladyof the of enchanter’s the Lake; spell,we are and again search under out thewe wouldlocalities those of hisof somepoem, real with event, as much it wasinterest up the as youngPass of Angus Leney, of that Dun-Craggan, the cross of whofire washad carriedjust been by obligedspeed forth to leave the signal.the funeral of his father in order to “ Benledi saw the Cross of Fire, ItO’er glanced dale and like hill lightning the summons up Strathire. flew. TheNor rest,tear thatnor peace,gathered young on his Angus eye. knew; JJntilHe left where the mountain Teith’s young breeze waters to dry; roll. ThatThe chapelgraced of the Saint sable Bride strath w, manHere ofthe Armandave, messenger deliverswho was up about the signalto pledge to Nor- his bridegroomtroth at the leaving altar tohis Mary unwedded of Tombea; bride, startsand theoff awaywith thetowards cross alongthe distant the shores district of Lochlubnaig, of Balquhidder. and romanticThe chapel knoll of Saintbetween Bride the stoodopening on ofa thesmall pass and of whichLeney, theand cross Lochlubnaig; is said to have and glanced Strathire, like light-along f easternning, is side situated of Lochlubnaig. at the south Armandave end and along is on the westNorman’s side of bride the Loch, is also and in Tombea, the neighbourhood.”* the residence of * ‘Swan’s Lakes.’ The view of Lochlubnaig from the sketches.south-east given in this work is one of Fleming’s happiest 54 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE north-west.Benledi bounds It theis 3009 horizon feet fromin height. Callander The on name the sidesignifies is bare ‘the and mountain tame; the of eastern God.’ side Its towards south-west Cal- impendinglander rugged over and Lochlubnaig picturesque; very thegrand. northern The viewside fromland tothe Inverness-shire. summit extends from the borders of Eng- a distanceThe carriage-road of 10 miles, from runs Callander along the tonorthern the Trosachs, banks leaveof Loch Callander Vennachoir either and by Lochthe northAchray. road, We passing may through Kilmahog; or by the south, passing through ; the mostCarchonzie picturesque, woods: is generallythe northern preferred. road, as Quit-being j ting,‘ sounding upon torrent’ the left, of Carchonziethe plain ofis seenBochastle : the “ Which, daughter of three mighty lakes, Sweeps through the plain, and ceaseless mint gallantBeyond Fitz-Jameswhich, is ‘ ‘Coilantogle’s with single-brand’ ford,’ whereovercame the fulthe combat,fierce Roderick Dhu, and where, after the fear- “Redcem’d, He falter’d unhoped, thanks fromto Heaven desperate for life- strife.” theA ford. bridge Loch of two Vennachoir arches conducts now opens the tourist on the acrossview.' length,It is a bylovely 1J mile expanse in breadth. of water Near about Blairgowrie, 5 miles in alake mile are beyond obtained; Coilantogle, at Milntown, very fineabout views a mile of fur-the SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 55 ther on, there is a pretty cascade formed by a small nrrivestream. at Proceedingthe wooded alongbank thecalled shores Coillcbhroine,* of the lake, weor ItheK the scene wood of of a Lamentation,’dreadful disaster so calledto a funeralfrom its proces- being sion,related from in athe note malice to Canto of a kelpie,III. of or the river ‘ Lady demon, of the as saysLake.’ Mr “Graham, About a“ milethe traveller,above Loch as heVennachoir,” approaches nence,Brigg ofwhere Turk, there arrives bursts at upon the hissummit eye a ofsudden an emi- and widefrom prospectLoch Achray, of the windingswith that of sweet the river lake that itself issues in Soursefront; thethrough gently-rolling an extensive river meadow;pursues its at serpentine the west endperty of of the his lake, Grace on the the Duke side ofof Montrose,Aberfoyle, is thesituated pro- nominationthe delightful justly farm due of toAchray, it, when the considered level field, in a con- de- surroundtrast with it.the Fromrugged this rocks eminence and mountains are to be which seen also,and, onin thethe right distance, hand, Benvenue,the entrance whose to Glenfinglas; northern honours,shoulder andbegins its boldto exciteand varied interest outline. by itsNotwith- wooded place,standing the the Trosachs height ofstill the remain observer’s concealed position from at thishis north.view by Anthe uninterruptedbold shore of wood, Loch extendingAchray, onfar theup thewhole mountain, length, with and the skirting road winding the lake along through its bor- its 'whichtdcr, is isfinely bare andcontrasted heathy.” with the southern bank, * Pronounced CoiUav-roin. £6 GUIDE TO PICTURESQUE Before reaching Loch Achray we pass a road glas,—aleading offlonely to the tract right, of 10through miles extent,the vale once of Glenfin- a royal Moray,hunting andforest, chiefly now occupied the property by tenants of theof hisearl own of siasticclan, Stewarts. pedestrian Antourist adventurous will not and fail reallyto travel enthu- up thisThe vale tourist to Balquhidder, is now proceeding through along Glenmain. the margin of which‘ lovely is Loch the innAchray,’ of Ardcean-chrockan, at the further extremitywhere good of readyaccommodation choke-full, may and bewhere bad, guides if the willhouse be isprocured not al- forImmediately the Trosachs. upon leaving Achray, the Trosachs* rocks,come into and view,—“ woods, athrown wildering together scene ofin mountains,disorderly groups.’f—whichseen, not described to ; butbe understoodwe cannot denyat all ourselvesmust he poeticalthe gratification description of quotingof the scene:— the ‘ Mighty Minstrel’s* Roll’d“ The o’erwestern the glenwaves their of ebbing level way day ; EachWas bathedpurple peak,in floods each of flinty living spire, fire. ButWithin not thea setting dark ravinebeam could below. glow + Sir W. Scott—Mr.» That is. ‘Chambers the Bristled says te: on• id ‘ give' ' thethat, reader if a so heap distinct of rude an idea slot < irregularhills, range and of sprinkledrock’ over by such t SCENEUf OF SCOTLAND. Where twined the path in shadow hid, ShootingRound many abruptly a rocky from pyramid. the dell ItsRound thunder.splinter’d many an insulated pinnacle mass. ; TheHuge native as the bulwarks towers which of the builders pass. vain ThePresumptuous rocky summits, piled onsplit Shinar’s and rent. plain. Form’dOr seem’d turret, fantastically dome, or set battlement; WithWild crestscupola as or pagod minaret. ever deck’d. NorOr' mosque wer< t heseof Eastern earth-born architect. castles bare, NorFor, 1from k’d their they shiver’dmany a brow srdisplay’d. fair FarAll twinklingo’er the unfathomable with the dewdrops glade. sheen. The^ nd brier-rosecreeping shrubs,fell in streamers of thousand green, dyes. WavedBoon innature the west-wind’s scatter’d, free summer and wild. sighs. EachHere planteglantine or flower, embalm’d the mountain’sthe air, child. Hawthorn ' andp alehazel and mingled vi-’-1 ”there

Cast anchor in the rifted rock ; HisAnd, shatter’d higher yet,trunk, the andpine-tree frequent hung. a— WhereIts boughs seem’d athw the cliffs to meetowed < 6Ky.fiigh, re glist’ning streamers peakswaved glanced. and danced The wanderer’ssummer heaven's eye could delicious barely blue; view ( TheSo wondrous acenery of wild, a fairy the dream.”whole might seem towersWhile on passing the left throughof the tourist, the Trosachs, and Benan Benvenue on the GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE right. A -dark and narrow defile, half a mile in length,Ketturin, opens by theon Lochnatives.* Katrine, “Before called theKetturn present or couldroad wasonly formed,” he approached says Mr. inLeighton, this direction “ the lakeby consistedwhat was ofgenerally steps very termed imperfectly the Ladders. cut ou* These of a withprecipitous the aid rocky of ropes bank, suspended by means from of which,trees to and be nativesgrasped ofby thisthe hand,romantic the adventurousland were accustomed and intrepid to lowerpass, often district laden of withthe Trosachsconsiderable to burdens,its more fromelevated the ibleparts. labour, The partly road hasby encroachingnow been formed on the with eastern incred- end whichof the riseslake, toand a partlygreat height,by blasting particularly the solid in rock, one toplace, a height where of it scarcely rises perpendicularly less than S00 feet.from theThe water first wideappearance and varied of the expanse lake givesto which little it stretchespromise ofout the as describedthe traveller it here proceeds. as Sir Walter has indeed well inlet still and deep, As served recarce wild such duck’s breadth brood of to brim, swim.” minutes,In advancing but itonwards, again opens the lakewith isincreasing lost for agran- few almostdeur, and every presents step asnew we andadvance. picturesque Having views now at milesfairly ofopened water up in lengththe lake, under we thehave eye, more Ben-Venue than six In Bleau’s Atlas, published in 1653. it is spelt Kenncrin. SCENERY OF SCOTLAND, 59 rises high over head to the left; and the mountains of LochAroquhar Katrine terminate is about the 10 prospect miles in to length,the west.” and 2 milesto cross in itsto thegreatest opposite breadth. side, andIt is after usual having for tourists sur- veyedsail alqpg Coir-nan-Uriskin, the eastern side or of ‘ Ellen’sthe Goblin’s Isle, andDen,’ visit to thefirst ‘view silver of strand,’‘ the Lady where of the Fitz-James Lake.’ caught his sachsThe is commonto sail up terminationLoch Katrine of to a Stronclachaig, tour to the Tro- and atthen Inversnaid, walk to Lochlomond, return to andGlasgow.* taking the“ steam-boatFrom the i boat-housesnaid, is. a atdistance Stronclachaig, of 5 miles to throughthe mill a ofwild Inver- and left.barren Loch country. Arklet, whoseAbout surfacemid-way is overshadowedwe pass, on the by streamthe lofty of theBenlomond. Arkill takes From its rise, this and loch flows the tilllittle it mill.falls intoA Lochlomondlittle beyond overthe loch, the cascade the traveller at 1 nversnaid reaches ratherbridge overa striking the brawling scene. stream,In the and front upon is aa sortrustic of ofesplanade Inversnaid, above built stands for thethe oldprotection and ruinous of the garrison district fortressagainst Robthe famousRoy and Generalhis followers. Wolfe wasIn this once lonely sta- mosttioned striking when anand officer touching in objectsthe Buffs. about One this oflonely the greenruin, ishillocks the little and neglectedrude stones cemetery mark the where spot undera few badewhich adieu the bonesto life of amidthe Englishthis wilderness. soldiers rest,A wholow * See4 Steam-boat Pocket Guide,’ p. 37. 60 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE mound of earth is all that encloses this burial* place.”*There is another and very interesting route by turnwhich to the Glasgow. pedestrian Returning or equestrian to the tourist Trosachs, may re-he endwill offind Loch a foot-path Achray leadingto the south-east. off from nearThis the westroad leadsdistance to Aberfoyle,of oj miles. where The there vale is ofa decentAberfoyle inn,—a is a mountains,beautiful scene,—a those to little the amphitheatreeast and south environed being theby orGrampians. Black River, The traverses Forth, the here vale; called its sourcethe Avendow, is about mile12 miles above to Aberfoylethe west itbeyond receives Lochcon, the Duchray, but about which a mayrises seemnear theto many summit to haveof Benlomond, an equal claim and to“which be the originward ofof the inn,Forth.”f the lowerAbout Lochard a mile opens to the on west- the view,is about and 200 the yards pass ofbeyond Aberfoyle, the other. the upper It Lochard,is a fine pieceThere of is water, a fine 3echo miles here, in length,and near by theIJ inwest breadth. end a prettyLobelia cascade. grow in greatThe profusion white winter-lily here. Huge and pikethe westhave isbeen Lochcon, caught a inromantic this loch. lake, Twobetween miles 2 toand the 3 milestioned in loch, length. the roadFrom fetches the ahead circuit of thisto Inversnaid. last men- LochardTheri is alsoto Rowardennan another foot-road or Lochfrom theLomond, west end from of whichgow by point the steam-boat, the tourist ormay travel either along return the beautifulto Glas- * * Lumsden’s Guide.' f Graham. SCENERY OP SCOTLAND. 61 road which skirts the eastern shore of Loch Lomond proceedsto Drymen. first toThe Gartmore, carriage-road a distance from of Aberfoyle 3 miles; athence bleak toand Drymen, elevated amoor, distance of which of 7 Mr.miles, Graham across tellsMr Wilkesus the andfollowing his friend curious Churchill anecdote: visited “ WhenScot- land,this spot, about horrified 1760, they with proceeded the forlorn thus appearance far; but ofat the scene,utmost and verge apprehending of Scottish cultivation,that they had they reached turned , theirBuchanan horses, house. and soughtThe Duke shelter of Montrose for the nightwas then at ;intained London, for three but theydays, wereby his most Grace’s hospitably chamberlain, enter- they,with Highland‘ nothing loth,’ mutton most and liberally old claret partook. ; of whichThe satiricalhospitality poet, by writingon reaching his celebrated London, poem,returned entitled, this the‘ The scene Prophecy of Drymen of Famine,’ muir inwith which abundant he introduces effect; butFrom he forgotDrymen, to record if we the wish liberal to farereturn of Buchanan.” by Dum- barton,Endric aboutwe proceed half-way to betweenKilmaronock, these points.crossing Here the isfamily an ancient of Cochrane. ruined castle,From which Kilmaronock belonged toto the bartonBalloch 8 ferrymiles. is aBut distance there isof a4 direct miles, route or to to Dum-Glas- gowvale fromof the Drymen, Endric anda distance Stockie ofmuir. 174 miles, by the 62 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE FOURTH TOUR. FROMAND GLASGOW LOCH LEVEN, TO LOCH RETURNING TAY, DUNKELD, BY STIRLING. PERTH, Loch Lubnctig—Balquhidder, 53 miles from Glas- I gow—Edenchip—Lochearn.lan’s—Killin, 66J-—Loch Tag—Benhead, 57£—St Lowers— Fil- Dunkeld,Kenmorc, 106—Tour82i—Taymouth to Blairgowrie—-Route Castle—Aberfeldie— to Braemar—TourLoch Rannoch and to BlairTummel—Route Athole—Killiecranhie— resumed from caithly—Stratherne—Kinross,Dunhcld to Perth—Perth, 157—Stirling,120—Scone—Pit- 157. wayThe ofusual Stirling coach ; routebut we from shall Glasgow take up tothe Perth tourist is by-at theUoch preceding Lubnaig, tour. to which The he ground has been stretching introduced alongi in: the northernfrontier shoreterritory, of this in lake this is partquarter, of Strathire,of Clan hasAlpine. been Atskirting 8 miles Lochfrom Callander,Lubnaig turnsthe road off, which and tains.enters a Onvalley the leftbounded is Loch on Voel,each sideamongst by lofty ‘ the moun- braes nearof Balquhidderthe the outlet of the lake.Kirktown The of mountain Balquhidder scenery lies aroundfinely varied this lakewith iswood interesting, and rock, and bay itsand shores promon- are it by“ At a short the head and ofturbulent Loch Voel, stream, and is separated Loch Hoine, from a smallIt is also but an picturesque expansion lakeof the of same about river a mile which in length. after- SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 63 lakewards is likewiseforms Loch well worthyVoel and of Loch being Lubnaig.visited, although This thefrom fatigue its distance of traversing from any the of moors, the great strangers roads, andbut seldomof surpassing do so. grandeur,The number which, of fromscenes this in Scotlandcircum- istsstance and alone, travellers, are almost will be entirely subsequently unknown pointed to tour- out astradition this work will proceeds. find other The objects enthusiast of interest in Highland on visit- ingRob Loch Roy Voellong resided,—therebesides its scenery, many for of on his its exploits shores ;habitants,—andwere performed inand the are church-yard still narrated is pointedby the out'in- thewarrior little has spot long of earth,lain at where rest. allHis that grave remains is covered of the —anby a simpleappropriate stone, emblemon which of has the been man, carved and a swordof his ‘ Clan Alpin’s omen and her aid.* manLiving protection, in a civilized and age,where when this the has law long affords been every the case,Roy, weas littleare apt better to look than at asuch public a character robber; asbut Rob we getwrong the thesufferings spirit of and the manpersecutions in doing which so. Webis racefor- had forhis agesfull endured; share. andThe ofgreat which and he seemsthe powerful to have andwere the all utterarrayed extirpation against him of an and ancient against line his seems name, to I havetherefore been tolong be considereddetermined whaton; Robhe trulyRoy was—ought ||among of the old the stock, last remains who was of desirous the genuine of supporting Highlanders the 64 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE hisancient being privileges a freebooter, and independence and his heading of his a tribe. band Ofof theredesperate is no banditti, evidence: which on the is contrary,asserted andhe was believed, never knownto break wantonly a promise to makehe had an unprovokedonce made. assault,He was or generousease or poverty; and humane and he to allcannot who be suffered denied fromthe meed dis- againstof respect the for unfortunate. his bravery, whichRob Roywas removednever exerted with I beenhis family driven to from a farm his residencein Balquhidder, on his own after property he had ofbeen Inversnaid. taken by theThe M‘Larens, farm to which who were he removed connexions had outof his by own force. ; butThe Rob M'Larens and his M'Gregors were also keptrelated them t

SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 75 nestling among its dark woody hills, to its noble river,ment. andThe to leading the brilliant object profusionin the landscape of rich isorna- the "noblecathedral, bridge seen standing above it,high and above relieved the byTay. the darkThe woodsits congregated in which greyit is embosomed,houses, add toand the the general town, masswith oflandscape. architecture, Beyond, and thusrise theenhance round itsand effect rich-swell- in the ’■Uong ing woods vista tothat the skirt foot the of river;Craig Vinean,stretching which, away with in a againstall its foreststhe sky. of fir,The rises, varied a broad, outline shadowy of Craig-y- mass, mowbarns, swelling one continuous to the light,range and of darklyagain subsidingwooded hill, in (splendid.deep shadowy distance. recesses, The forms Duke the of remainderAthole’s grounds of this ■ present a succession of walks and rides in every style beof seenbeauty in thatthe fewcan hours be imagined; usually allotted but they to them,will not as thirty.the extent It of is the the walks property is fifty of fewmiles, places, and ofperhaps the rides of noof suchone ina prolongationall Britain, toof admit, lines of within access such; and a every-space, quentwhere changeswit'u so ofmuch scene, variety and so of much character, beauty.” such Dr.fre- whichB. D. Clarke“ perhaps pronounces has not theits wholeparallel scene in Europe.”to be one ««Of Wanting the cathedral only theof Dunkeldroof, it wants Mr. nothingMacCulloch as a ruinsays: ; ofand, considerable as a Scottish merit. ecclesiastical The choir ruin, has it recentlyis a specimen been convertedtions, with into very a parish little churchexception, ; but, have as thebeen restora- mads 76 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE hasfrom followed, the original while design, much advantageno injury toto itsthe preserva-building sonrytion has such been parts gained, as were by supportingfalling into with decay, fresh and ma- by embellishment.removing such ruinThough as produced the early disorder history withoutof this wasestablishment here a monastery is obscure, of itCuldees. is understood Kenneth that thereMac- alpineColumba is saidhither to fromhave Iona.brought Mylne the bonesasserts of thatSt. tinethere the was Pictish a religious king, infoundation 729, and thathere David by Constan- L con- thatverted it wasit into once an the episcopal primacy see of inScotland, 1127. Ittill seems that wasGavin transferred Douglas to is St. a Andrews.name not Amongto be forgotten the bishops, in toryScottish lof Scottishliterature, independence. nor William SinclairThe monument in the his- of brassthe former or marble; is in hisbut works, the latter more demands imperishable some better than inscribedmonument to thanhis name. the tablet H is of spirit grey was stone worthy which of was his aage, part of theof Edwardproud spirit the ofSecond’s Bruce andtroops Wallace. landing Onat theDunnibrissel country, Bishopin Fife, Sinclair,with the withintention sixty of retainers, ravaging joinedearl of a Fife,larger and band attacking which was the raised invaders, by Duncan, obliged uniformitythem to retire in thewith architecture great loss. ofThere this cathedral is much morethan wasNevertheless, usual in likeour most Gothic of the ecclesiastical Scottish specimens, buildings. it man,is compounded together withof several every styles one of ; includingthe varieties the of Nor- the SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 77 I three periods of Gothic architecture which followed [! it.the mostOf the remarkable very few isancient that of tombsthe celebrated which remain,Alister Badenoch.More-mac-an-righ, It is a betterstatue inknown armour, as ofthe somewhat Wolf of fudeand withworkmanship, this inscription with a : lion’s‘ Hie head jacet atAlexander the feet, betheSeneschallus, More, Dominus filius Iloberti de Buchan regis Scotorum et Badenoch, et Eliza- qui tobiit From A.D. Dunkeld 1394.”’ it is usual to make a few short Excursionseighbourhood to the : toprincipal Dunkeld points House, of thescenery seat ofin the ■;1 forty feet above the bottom of the fall, and is con- :' structed)roaohing in thesuch cascade, a manner, is entirelythat the ignorantstranger, ofin ap-his ' vicinitysdiflee. toUpon it, being entering concealed the building, by the youwalls are of struck this 78 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE andwith singing a painting the songsof Ossian, of other playing times. upon The his picture, harp, loudas you noise, contemplate and tiie whole'cataractit, suddenly disappearsfoams at once with he- a forewith you,the noisereflected of thunder. in several It mirrors, is hardly and possible roaring to thatconceive machinery a spectacle contrivance more striking. of this Ifsort it bewears objected too shouldmuch thereply, appearance that as scenic of scenicrepresentation representation, 1 admire 1 bitionit, and ; aswhich, the finest doubtless, specimen without of that the species aid of of such exhi- a itdeception, is now calculated would have to beenproduce. destitute A oflittle half below the effect this j theedifice, narrow a simple chasm but of pleasingthe rocks, arch through is thrown which across the- upriver the flows Braan, with vastis the rapidity. Rumbling About Bridge, a mile throwql higher) acrossThe bed a chasmof the ofriver, granite, for severalabout 15hundred feet wide. feet ' fragmentsabove the arch,of rock is copiouslyover which charged the river with foams massive and roarsApproaching like the watersthe bridge, at Ivy it precipitatesBridge in Devonshire. itself with j greatof spray fury, or throughvapour thehigh chasm, above castingthe bridge, a thick and cloud agi- nt tating,form the by surrounding its fury, even rocks. the prodigiouslew objects masses will which more [ them,amply thanrepay the the woody traveller precipices, for the thetrouble long, of winding, visiting ■;,, '1shady he tourist groves, may the return ruins fromand cataractsOssian's hallof Dunkeld.’* along the £t prospect.face of Craig Vinean, which commands a delightful 79 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE off to the right by Moulin, distant 1J mile. The hillsscene. now Passing begin to Fascally, close in andbeautifully form a mostsituated romantic upon aTummel, tongue ofthe land tourist formed enters by the the celebrated Garry and pass the of victory,Killiecrankie, on the where17th of Dundee July, 1689. fell in“ theDundee,” moment says of risingChambers, grounds “ was beyond posted the on thispass, occasionand Mackay upon ap-the theproached low country. through Dundeethe narrow permitted dangerous the royaldefile troopsfrom descendingto evolve completely in close intocolumns the open upon ground, their lines,and, thenput selfthem was at oncekilled and by completelya musket bullet, to the whichroute. piercedHe him- his pursuitbody, beneath with his the sword. armpit, The as passhe was of Kiliiecrankiepointing the ‘ whereis, simply, the ahills particular on both part sides of theapproach vale of verythe Garry, near, roughand descend channel in of precipitousthe stream. ruggedThe whole steeps is clothedto the horridwith natural depths, wood, such and as abounds must appalin dense the shades stoutest- and heartedvery near traveller. the bottom Formerly of the defile, the road and passedwas so along' nar- sianrow, troops,and so indangerous 1746, being in appearance, ordered to advancethat the fromHes- turnedDunkeld, back in inorder limine, to raiseand could the siege upon of no Flair, account fairly be theminduced like to the pass entry through to another ; the wholeworld. appearingIt has lost to extending from the Hill of Drummond, near Taymoidh^to. SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 81 'much1 from the of broadits dreadful new road character which has In been modern led securely times, theThe sunny battle sideground j>f thehas pass,been half-wayeffectually up com- the frommemorated a level by field, a tall within rude threeobelisk miles of stone,of Blair, (rising on themark right-hand the precise side spot of where the road,) Dundee which fell.” is said to fieldThe of tourist Athola is now beautifulentering Blairpicturesque Athole, orregion, ‘ the aboundingThe grounds in theof mostAthole varied House and enchantingshould be visited— scenery. theIt wasscenery the ofquick Glen andTilt, tastefuland the perceptionfalls of the Bruar.of our beautynational which poet. now Burns, adorns which this spot.created It much was he of who, the i jinfirst his suggested poem entitled, to the noble‘Bruar proprietor Athole’s the Petition,’ idea of anddecorating now, tothis use part the ofwords his estateof a ladywith tourist,plantations; “ the andshades the which melodies he imagined, of his ideal have birdsactually resound sprung from up, theirluxuriant branches. than theNothing growth can of bethe more plants sudden scattered and stant,along thoughthe abrupt scarce back visible of the shower Bruar, from fed the by ascend- a con- ingwind mist by theof successive rocky walls cascades, that surround sheltered them,—andfrom every enjoying,flinty bed, bya degree the reflection of heat scarceof the inferior sun from to that their of flourishing.a hot-house; theIt wouldtenderest be plantsunjust,” are continues here safe andour authoress,nain, without “ to advertingquit the boundaryto an improvement of this wide of do-the 82 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE Amost state lasting of daily and advancement, extensive nature, those bleakwhich and is here naked in mountainsand appeared which to serverepelled no otherthe eye visible of the purpose traveller, but conqueredthat of a frowning valour, are barrier now assumingto the last a retreatvery different of un- areaspect,—plantations quickly overspreading of an their almost dusky incredible and rugged extent sur- year.face,—the The Duke continuity, plants manythe extent, millions of these of trees lofty every and fiction,thriving inplantations, the Spectator, reminds of Hilpseme of andthe beautifulShallam, whereas consoling the disappointed his love-lorn antediluvian sorrows by is adorning represented his mountainssure, the space with of groves five hundred of his ownyears, creating. which ShallamTo be improvementdevoted to this far useful beyond amusement what our gavelimited room three- for' parallelscore and does ten not admits entirely of. fail;Yet ain succession this instance of ourthe provement,short-lived Shallamswith a noblefollowing emulation, in this thepath steps of im- of thetheir imaginary predecessors, planter.”* may equal An the excursion sole exertions may beof «ii madeCowrie, from into BlairBraemar. Athole, There as well is also as a fromvery eutic-Blair bi ingLoch route Hannoch, from Blair a distance Athole ofto S6Loch miles, Tummei by a goodand carriageKannoch, road. and joinsThe theriver Tay Tummei at Logierait, rises in after Loch' a t courseshortness of ofonly its 25 course,” miles; says“but Mr. notwithstanding Leighton, “ there the «is. lished* Miss in 1S17.Spence’s ‘ Letters from the North Highlands,’ pub. *: SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 83 whichare few so rivers seldom in Scotlandpresents to views be compared the visitor to it; would none fnationjpass slightly it exhibits over. oneFrom continued its source series to of its the termi- most /once/delightful seen andit, evenvaried though landscapes. years mayWho have that rolled has mel,over hisor itshead, ever-changing can ever forget beauties! the valley And of the yet Tum- how ij verystream. few haveAmong ever visitedthe numbers the finest numberless portions of whothis \perambulateten leave the finestour ancient portions realm, of the Tummelnine out unheededof every over»nd unknown.”the Garry. The“ The road valley strikes is oifhere at theclose bridge and !rowfwoody, that, with with a loftyfew andexceptions, various theboundary, mountain so nar-ac- clivitiesflat land, riseor spaceabruptly of any from kind the on itswater, margin. leaving ‘ The no distinguishingMacCulloch, ‘ consistcharacters in itsof thisnarrowness place,’ andsays pro-Dr. longationboundaries ; ;in in the the sudden great variety rise and of theirloftiness rocky of out- the lineand ; ofin thethe woods,wonderful rocks, intricacy and ravines of their which surfaces, cover andvaried intersect course themof the ; in river; the highly and inornamented the exquisite and birchesforms and which arrangements here constitute of the forestedthe only and wood. scattered So largeform andcontinuous so perfect woods are thesetheir effecttrees, onthat the where landscape they (andis equal swelling, in richness and from to that the shapeof oak of forest, the land, round, thrown full, intothey broadare disposed masses inof groupsendless orvariety in scattered ; while, clumps where 84 GUIDE PICTURESQUE areor whereeven morethey standbeautiful, as solitarymore airy,trees, andtheir more effects in atcharacter Loch Katrine, with that forms general so lightnessessential whicha part here, of the as effect“ The of theopening scenery.’ of the glen of Fincastle affords a pleasing,this ‘greenery.’ though butThis a valleymomentary was once relief, famous amid forall thefifteen number can be of traced. its castles, The and great even fall yet of thethe Tummelruins of cannotalso now be attracts compared attention. with thoseIn pointof Foyers of altitude or the it whichClyde; mustbut itever has make its own it rankdistinct among characteristics, the first of foam,Scottish over cascades. a height The of riversixteen here feet, falls, in formsin white so visitorgraceful, gazes so varied,in silent and admiration, so well-marked, unheeding, that for the a andtime, trees the landscapearound, however, which surrounds are no less it. beautiful The rocks and romantic.”appropriate; Lochand theRannoch. general islandscape about 10 is milesrich and in banelength, and and Lorn 2 in breadthclose the ; theview mountains towards theof Breadal- head of theBut loch, we on must the eastnow is resume the lofty our Shechallion. main line of route thesefrom places;Dunkeld by theto followingPerth. routeThe distanceis 14 miles. between Two milesbeyond beyond which Dunkeldthe scenery is the becomes famous rather hill of bleak Birnam, and eterile.Auchtergaven, Six miles and froma mile Dunkeld farther ison the the village mill of onLoak. the leftA littletowards beyond the Linnthis ofis aCampsie. road striking Beyond off SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 85 I Werethis point defeated is the by field the ofScots. Luncarty, Crossing where the the Almond Danes andby a Balherisiebridge of and3 arches, Tulloch and printfields,passing Few we House, enter Perth.This fine town occupies the centre of a spacious confluenceplain, on the of thathanks river of withthe Tay,the sea. 28 milesFinely above wooded the chieflyheights consistsof gentle of ascent two longenviron streets it on forming all sides. right It numberangles with of newthe linestreets of branchthe river, off. and A frombridge which of 10 a calledarches Brighron.built in 1772, The connects oldest building the city inwith Perth a suburb is St. transactionJohn’s church. in ScottishGowrie history,House, thenow scene no longer of a singular exists, countythe ground buildings. on which The it stoodInches being are beautifuloccupied bypieces the ofIt waspublic on pleasure-ground the North Inch on that the thatbanks singular of the river.com- andbat tookMacintoshes, place betwixt of which a chosen Sir Walter party ofScott Mackays has so effectivelyPerth.’ The availed tourist himself should inprovide ‘ The himselfFair Maid with of a localitieslocal guide of bookthis toancient the interesting city, amongst antiquities which andare BellScone, and Dunsinan, Mary Gray. Luncarty, and the grave of Bessy BessieMr. ChambersBell and Marysays : Gray“ The is, common that the tradition father of the formerlaird of was Lynedoch laird of ; Kinnaird,that, in the and words of the of latter the song,mate theyfriendship were ‘ twasubsisted bonnie between lassies,’ them.and an inti-The GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE visitplague to ofher 1666 friend broke at outLynedoch. while Eessy In orderBell was to avoid on a three-quartersthe infection, theyof a builtmile westthemselves from Lynedoch,a bower about in a onvery the retired side ofand the romantic Brann spot,Burn, called which Burn soon Braes, after joinssupplied the withAlmond. food, itHere is said, they by lived a young for somegentleman time, diseaseof Perth, was who unfortunately was in love communicated with them both.to them The by intheir cases lover, of theand plague, proved theyfatal. were According not buried to custom, in the —theordinary Dronach places Haugh,of sepulture, at the but foot in ofa secludeda brae of spot, the sameSome name,tasteful upon person the hasbank fashioned of the ariver sort ofAlmond. bower overpied,’ the sweetly spot; blow and overthere the ‘ violets remains blue, of unfortunateand daisies Scone is about 2 miles north from Perth. The ishouse a modern of Scone, building, the seat occupying of the Earl the siteof Mansfield,of the an- crowned.cient palace In where 838, thethe kingsCuldees of Scotlandfounded anused Abbey to ba kingshere, towere which crowned the famouswas transferred stone on fromwhich Dun- the staffnage;Westminster Edward Abbey. I.There removed is a fineit, collectionin 1296, ofto seatpaintings of Lord in Gray,Scone isHouse. at the distanceKinfauns of 3 House,miles from the lectionPerth, onof paintingsthe Dundee and road.some antiquitiesThere is here.a good Thecol- Perth,Bridge onof the Erne, Edinburgh at the road,distance is a offamous 3 miles watering from SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 87 I place,Highland and passes. was in Atancient a little times distance one are of the the famous great [dyspepticPitcaithly patientsWells, known in Scotland. to all theThere real isor excellent fancied / accommodationvisitors, including both a public at the ball-room, Bridge reading-room,and wells for andThe table scenery d'hote. *surrounding Pitcaithly is very fine. hillPennant of Moncrieff pronounces or theMoredun, view from ‘the the glory neighbouring of Scot- land.’stretches Towards 20 miles the along east thethe noble carse river, of Govvrieat the mouthBroughty of Ferrywhich ; arcon theseen west the is town the fine of Dundeestrath of and the Erne;Grampians on the with north Perth the in horizon the foreground. is bounded byIn theas- » The following: analysis of the fivechemical wells contentshere' of a wine GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE cending Strathearn, at the distance of about 4 miles ofabove the theKarl Bridge, of Kinnoul. we pass InDupplin this neighbourhood House, the seat a sanguinaryScots and battleEnglish, was in fought, which inthe 1333, latter between gained the a decisiveHouse,” victory.says Mr. “Chambers, Nearly opposite “ the rivuletto Dupplin May toenters the loversthe Erne, of Scottish forming song the by vale the sotitle well of Erider-known may,Invermay or Invermay. were celebrated, The birchesabout awhich century grow ago, in , known,by Mallet, however, in a topleasant have beenlittle onlyode, writtenwhich tois suitthe samean air name. which Ithad is longchiefly before around existed the underhouse thatof Invermay, these trees at are the to mouthbe seen. of Theythe arelittle accom- vale, itpanied is pleasing by a prodigious to know that quantity the whole of other scenery trees of ; andIn- vermayof music is and worthy poetry of havethe attentions conspired which to bestow the muses upon littleit. Through stream dashesthe wide over spread a series pathless of cascades, woods, theits sometimescourse generally on account unseen ofby overhanging reason of the pocks. trees, andAt beauty,one place the of water peculiar is caused ruggedness by the rocksand picturesqueto make a bystrange the uncouth noise, which name iswhich perhaps the countryonly to bepeople described have givenPassing to it,—the up the Humble strath, Bumble."we reach the pleasant town environs,of Crieff, 18is milesspoken from of inPerth. rapturous This termsplace byand Mr. its SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 89 Chambers. A visit to it will enable the tourist to InakeMacCulloch various considers excursions Drummond of great castle interest. absolutely Mr. Highlandshnrivalled inonly the by Lowlands, Dunkeld andand Blair.exceeded “Placed in the nificentin the most and advantageous various expanse position around, to enjoy it looks the mag- over ' sceneryof the most scarcely commanding any where and equalled. varied forms, With including ground tlewater, undulations; and rock, andits extent abrupt is hill,princely, and dell,and andits aspect gen- thatlvenues, of ancient profuse wealthwoods, anda waste ancient of lawn power. and pasture,Noble insarelessness unrestrained of liberality scope, andevery extensive thing bespeakspossessions the ; Whileto 1500, the stamps ancient on castle,it that its air earliest of high part and belonging distant opulencerural beauties which of adds baronial so deep Britain.” a moral interest to the sameOf authorityMonzie, thesays: seat “The of General great beautyCampbell, of thisthe placeaboyg.; is whereonly to it formsbe fairly the appreciated middle ground from and the con-hill spicuousthe extended feature landscapes of one ofof theScotland. most magnificent The house of picture;itself is sufficientand nothing to givecan aexceed centre the of felicitousunity to thear- KoverhangingIrangement of its the valley, rich andwoods rising which up the surround hills in allit, ■ whichthat happy holds themixture due line of andcarelessness limit between and decision,the pro- |jfusionIjart. Whileof nature Monzie and maythe offerrestraint a lesson and toattentions gentlemen of 90 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE of the capability school, it occupies a species of un- overdecided Britain and ; undulatingand whatever ground art haswhich done occurs here may all evenbe done of Scotland,in a thousand can parallelother places. the noble But landscape few parts, in createdwhich it for lies; it, anda landscape for which which it seems seems toto havehave been ofcreated wood, ; anda continuous cultivation, scene and of hill, richness retiring and in beauty, varied • tantand endlessblue mountains succession, of tillLoch it terminatesEarn.” in the dis- neighbourhoodHaving made of this Perth, digression we return on the to scenerythe mainline of the ingof route the Bridgeindicated of atEarn, the headthe oftourist this chapter.passes Kilgras- Leav- littleton and pastoral Balmanno valley Castle,of the Ochils.and enters Beyond Glenfarg, this isa' isthe the village town ofof Milnathort;Kinross, 17 miles and from1J mile Perth. farther There on attentionis nothing ofin thethe towntourist; of Kinrossbut Loch itself Leven to attract and theits fulcastle expanse will interest of water,” him saysexceedingly. Mr. Leighton, “ This “ beauti- lies in ross,the immediate and in the neighbourhood small shire of of thatthe burghname. of FromKin- fromEdinburgh Stirling. it is distantIts circumference about 27 miles, is about and 2610 milesor 11 islands,miles; andwhich its breakbosom theis studdeduniformity with of several its surface, little andthe sceneryincrease which its beauty. surrounds The it general is soft characterand gentle, of valeand notof altogetherKinross environs deficient it inon variety. the west andThe north- lovely SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 91 west, with all its yariety of plantations, arable and bfpasture rural fields,beauty. pleasure On this grounds, side also, and close other to materials the mar- /Kinrossgin of the House, lake, are the seen seat the of ancientBruce, townand itsof Kinross,adjacent alsogarden on andthe grounds.shore of theAbout lake, ais milethe eastruins from of Bur-this, kheDirection, hill of lyingBennarty between on the the south-east west Lomond side. hillIn thisand ground,the low hillabout of threeBalbeddie, miles isin a lengthlevel tract and ofone carse in , afterbreadth, leaving through the lake,which towardsthe water the ofFrith Leven of Forth,Hows, rbelieved Loch-Leven,’ to be mysteriously says a statistical connected writer, with ‘ is popularlythe num- bereleven eleven, hills, being fed by eleven eleven miles streams, round, peopled surrounded by eleven by kindssome ofof thesefish, propertiesand studded seem by quiteeleven fanciful; islands. othersBut are untrue.’in number; The thechief island islands opposite in the lakeKinross, are only on whichsle, near the the ruins east ofend, the on castle which stand, are the and remains St. Serf’s of nusti religious have house.been originally This religious erected house, here itupwards is alleged, of >fi thousandthe ruins years is now ago left.; but onlyA few a triflingsheep and fragment cattle whichinhabitants feed uponof St. its Serf’s grassy isle. surface, The areisland now on the which only sxtent;rius and of thehere, castle it isstand said, is aabout fortress two wasacres first in 92 GUIDE TO THE PICTUBESQUE builtPiets. by‘ Conyal,In the wars the whichson of harassed Dongart, Scotland king of dur- the ingLeven the was minority held in of the David patriotic II., the interest castle byof Loch-Allan actedde Vipont, in behalf against of Edward the troops Baliol. of EdwardJohn de III., Strivilin who blockadedKinross, which it. erected occupies a fortress the point in the of achurch-yard neighbouring of thepromontory; water of Leven and at issues the lower out ofend it, of it the is saidlake, that where he heraised hoped a strong to lay and the lofty castle bulwark, jinder water by means and constrain of which daily,Vipont and to surrender.the besiegers The thought water themselvescontinued certainto rise oftroops success, having when left the the English camp generalto celebrate and themost festival of his ingof St. the Margaret favourable at Dunfermline,opportunity, the(June besieged, 19, 1335.) seiz- theafter barrier, much labourwhen andthe waterperseverance, rushed outbroke with through such impetuosity as to overwhelm the English encamped 1• on that side.’ Loch-Leven, however, derives its ; chiefhaving historical been the interestprison offrom Queen the factMary, of afterits castle her hill.surrender In theto reignthe confederatedof Robert III., Lords a branch at Carberry of the offamily Eooh-Eeven, of Douglas with had lands obtained on the a grantshore ofof thethe castlelake. " In the middle of the sixteenth century, Sir Robert ! ’ famousDouglas James of Loch-Leven, Earl of Morton, the near and kinsman step-father of thf t( . naturalthe equally brother well-known to the Queen, James was, Earl in consequenctof Murray ‘"i- SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. of his connexion with the leaders of her disaffected EMSubjects, ary, who selected was imprisoned as the jailor here of on the the unfortunate 16th June, /injuredIl567.” ofThe late beauty years of by the an lochattempt has beento drain not it!a little A '^considerablearound the loch, number by the of drainingacres have off beenof several laid barefeet of w,water, stony, and sterile they beltpresent drawn the around appearance the lake. of a nar- of InDevon, the neighbourhood on the road offrom the Kinrossvillage of to the Stirling, Crook Humblingthree remarkable Bridge, and objects, the Caldronthe Devil’s Linn. Mill, Thethe Here ofthe these Devon, is aboutafter collectingmile from itself the in village.a deep 'wherepool, formed it is whirled in the rock,about rushes with intogreat a cavityviolence, below, and occasionsmachinery, a against heating the soundsides of like the rock.the workingAbout 400of yardseach side below the the rocks Mill rise is tothe the Rumbling height of Bridge) 86 feet, “onand approachconnects so near them. each other,The scene that below, a bridge as seenof 92 from feet platedthe old bybridge, the steadiest is frightful, head andwithout cannot awe be r contem-a hand- bridgeelevation has of been 120 latelyfeet from erected the abovebed of the the old river one, : lookingspect is trulydown sublime.the Devon The from best the view bridge, of the the finely pro- Ifrom•ooded a cliffsgentle connected eminence by oppositethe Rumbling to it Bridge,upon the is boundingsouth hank. from The rock river, to rock, both each above forming and abelow, littls 94 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE cataract, creates a constant rumbling noise, hence ofthe the name rock of grow the bushesBridge and : from trees, the among clefts which in the dans face sporting,and hawks thereby nestle, givingand from a pleasingthese they animation are incessantly to the wherescene. areA miletwo farthercataracts, down distant is the from Caldron each Linn,other feettwenty-eight in height, yards. declines The a little upper from fall, the thirty-four perpendi- ’ iscular one ; likethe arocks pillar, rise horizontal out of the at channel,the top, andby which there j manyBetween persons these have falls passed the river from has one formed side tothree the other,.round7 boilers.cavities, havingIn the thefirst, appearance the water of is largeperpetually caldrons agi-' or withtated aas constantif it were foam boiling ; in ; inthe the third, second which it is covered" is the spreadlargest, outbeing in 22 a feetlarge in cooler.diameter, These it is cavitiesplaced asare if communicate,separated from not each by otherthe water by ledges running of rock;over theirthey ledges,brim, but wrought by apertures out in about the coursemiddle of depth ages inby their the theaction water of theinto water. the last Thefall lowerthrough caldron a similar discharges aper- dowture, hewnhaving out the of appearance the rock: ofthrough a door thisor large opening, win- ti stupendousthe river rushes pile inof oneperpendicular vast and rapid rocks, torrent into aover deep ai and romantic glen. The noise of its fall is tremen- ,ti:' dous, and the rocks seem to tremble to their centre, t andwhile admiration. the mind is Theabsorbed height in of emotions the rock of is 88wonder feet, . ' SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 95 piagnificent6ml the fall scene,44. The and mostof the complete deep and viewfinely of wood- this hased dell the isappearance from the bottomof a prodigious of the great fountain fall, wheregushing it [betweenfrom the onesolid and rock. two o’clocjiIt is beheld in the to afternoon, most advantage when thestantly sun ascendsshines directly from the in pool:front ofin it;sunshine a vapour this con- va- bypour the exhibits constant all agitationthe colours of ofthe the air, rainbow, disperse, which, and i gainThe appear tourist in maythe most proceed beautiful to Stirling combinations.” from the ’rookr by Alloa,of Devon, a distance by Dollar of 171;; a distance 01' he ofmay 20 pursuemiles; 1 Queensferry,lis route from a distanceKinross of to 16 Edinburghmiles. by North FIFTH TOUR. TO MELROSE,RETURNING KELSO AND BY THEDUMFRIES. NEIGHBOURHOOD, Lanark, 25—Biggar, 37—Peebles, 52—Innerleithen, —-Hawick,58—Selkirk 114—Dumfries, —Yarrow—Melrose,HO—KWso, 168|—Glasgow, 240. 94 < toWe Lanark, have conductedthe first stage the intourist this extensivein our first route.— tour, >. FromBiggar Lanark is a neat to littleBiggar town, is a situateddistance uponof 12 a miles.plain, a whichwards nearlyreceding joins from the the vale hanks of the of Tweed.the Clyde “ east-The *t: metricalChambers, history “ makes of theSir hogWilliam near BiggarWallace,” the scenesays 96 E PICTOxtESQUE heroof a sanguinaryand a large and army important of the conflict English. between Thougl tha deriveresting credibility upon no proper from theauthority, traditions the offact the seems people hillswho sayto the that south, the Englishcalled Cors-Cryne, came over awhile hollow the in Scoti thi approachedcamped all night.from TintotIn further where supportthey had of lainthe fact athere circular yet camp.exists nearWallace the issupposed said to havebattle-groum come int brooms,the camp in oforder the toEnglish, observe disguised the numbers as a andvender posi- o tionthe handsof his of enemy; the Southrons on this manyoccasion insults, he endured for whirl lowinghe took day.ample Arevenge hollow in rock the onbloodshed the hill ofof theBizzy. fob berry,Seat, near a mile which north is from a spring Biggar, called is calledhis Well; Wallace’ am havethe hero taken is believed,refuge here, on oneto haveunfortunate rested on occasion, this rock ti andLeaving drunk outBiggar,* of this thefountain.” road crosses the Spitta burn,Broughton, and 5enters miles fromPeebles-shire. Biggar, is aThe neat villageand thriv ol ancienting little seat place; of thenear Tweedies, to it is Drummelzicr but which has castle, passet thi beyondby marriage Broughton to a branch is the townof the of Hays. Peebles, Ten a place mil greatIt is theantiquity, scene of and the of well-kown some manufacturing ancient poem trad e; ■ of 18 miles : vil 18in, ; oDurisdeer,23; ; Aumgcon inn, Thornhiy,34; iz - : v lawioru Bro in 15*,;] SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 97 Written^titled ‘ Peeblesby James to theI. Play,’It was supposed occasionally to have a royalbeen Westresidence. end ofIn the the old centre town of are the thechurchyard remains atof the /churchare scattered of St. Maryabout ; ina fewvarious other parts relics of of the antiquity town. , castle,About ancientlya mile to the the chief west residence of Peebles of theis Neidpath Frasers, heldnow theout propertyagainst Cromwell.—Horsburghof the earl of Wemyss. castleIt long on seat;he road of the to Horsburghs Inverleithen, Sixwas miles formerly from thePeebles family- the liquatedourist reachesin a sequestered Inverleithen, vale aat finethe junctionwatering-place, of the fromLeithan Edinburgh, and Tweed. and Itprobably is little moreowes thanmuch 26 ofmiles its popularitytance from tothe the capital. circumstance of its convenient dis- at Crossinga short distance the Leithan, on the weright pass is PirnTraquair ; and House;3 miles furtherAshiesteel, on thewe residenceenter Selkirkshire. of Sir Walter We Scott next before pass he became proprietor of Abbotsford. A mile be- . | yondand joins Ashiesteel that from the roadEdinburgh crosses tothe Selkirk; Cadden itwater, then . passesand crosses Fernalie the onTweed, the left,now and a noble Yair river,on the by right, Yair i aridge.aext crosses Diverging the Ettrick, from theand banks half-a-mile of the Tweed, beyond, it , intersThe Selkirk.town of Selkirk is situated upon a rising .roundbout 7000. overhanging It was thebuilt Ettrick. by the EnglishIts population in 1513, is !)8 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE after the battle of Flodden. “ The ancient and receivedthat the citizenstradition of of that the townburgh distinguished of Selkirk affirms, them- selvesEighty by in their number, gallantry and headedon that by disastrous their town-clerk, occasion. land.they joined James, their pleased monarch with on thehis entranceappearance into of Eng- this gallantdone, upon troop, the knighted field of battle, their fromleader, which William few ofBry-.’ the tinguishedmen of Selkirk themselves were destined in the conflict, to return. and wereThey almost disr found,all slain. by theThe side few of survivors, Lady-Wood on their Edge, return the corpsehome, ofwith a female,a child suckingwife to atone her of breast.their fallenIn memorycomrades, of armsthis latter of the event, burgh continues bear a female, the tradition, holding th« a child present in withher arms,the Scottish and seated lion ; onin thea sarcophagus, background adecorated wood.”* theThe braverytown is ofrife its with souter-sons, traditions manyabout ofthe which battle, Mr.and describesChambers a haspennon preserved or standard in his amusing taken atpages. Floddett, He and“ Philiphaugh, still in possession the scene of the of weaver-craftMontrose’s defeat in Selkirk. is an extensiveSelkirk, at plain the onhead the of north which side the of Yarrowthe Ettrick, comes abova out fromstream. Newark’s The confluence ‘ birken-bower,’ of the two to watersjoin heroccasion! sister angleapiece formed of very by finethe junction,natural scenery.lies Carterhaugh. In the verysup- lane.posed toBehind be the thisscene again, of the on fine the fairy face ofballad an eminence of Tam- ' * Sir Walter Scott in " Border Minstrelsy.” SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. commanding a view of the whole vale, and embowered asamidst Sir Walterits beautiful Scott newcalls woods,it in his is ‘Lay sweet of Bowhill,’the Last Minstrel,The vale aof hunting Yarrow seat parts of the off Duke from of the Buccleuch. head of wardsPhiliphaugh the left. towards Yarrow the isright, narrow that atof theEttrick opening, to- andupper somewhat and greater woody part for is themerely first composedfew miles, of but those the -greenscribed, pastoral with small hills haughs which which have wouldbeen alreadybe veryijper- de- partlytile, but from for thea certain humidity melancholy of the climate. event whichYarrow, oc- curredadaptation upon to rhyme,its banks, has but been more the subjectperhaps of from ballads, its guishedsongs, and verses poems Written innumerable. upon it, wereThe those last bydistin- Mr. rowWordsworth, Visited,’ thecalled first ‘ Yarrowcomposed Unvisited’ eleven years and before‘ Yar- havingthe poet for had the seen first the time vale, seen the it. lastBoth immediately compositions on ■referthe locality throughout by the to balladsthe poetical of which charm it thrownhas been over the subject,gour, beginning, particularly that by Mr. Hamilton of Ban- BuskBusk ye, ye, busk busk ye, ye, my my bonnie winsome boanie marrow bride. ; but, without being aware of it, the poet of the Lakes viouslyhas more existed, than doubledby his own the sweetwhole littlecharm poems, that somepre- versesthe scenery, of which and may calculated here be quotedto develop as descriptive in the best of possiblesion has style,been made.that charm to which so frequent allu-

SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 101 haugh;he passes a Philiphaughmile farther ; up,a little Bovvhill; farther onand is anotherCarter- jI themile ‘ higherLay of up, the Newark Last Minstrel.’ castle, a principal“ This is scene a mas- in roundedsive square by tower,an outward now unroofed wall, defended and ruinous, by round sur- aboutflanking three turrets. miles fromIt is Selkirk, most beautifully upon the bankssituated, of theunites Yarrow, with thea fierce Ettrick and aboutprecipitous a mile stream, beneath which the castle.royal arms,Newark with Castle the unicora,was built byare James engraved 11. onThe a muchstone inmore the ancientwestern castle side of in the its tower. immediate There vicinity, was a calledill. Auldwark,Both were founded,designed itfor is thesaid, royal by Alexander residence thewhen extensive the King forestwas disposed of Ettrick. to take Varioushis pleasure grants in theoccur keeping in the of records the Castle of theof NewarkPrivy Seal,upon bestowing different oncebarons. seized There and isheld a popularout by thetradition, outlaw thatMurray, it was a notedNewark character upon condition in song, of whobeing onlymade surrendered hereditary accountsheriff of of the this forest. transaction A long is preserved ballad, containing in the ‘ Bor- an derwith Minstrelsy.’ Margaret, sisterUpon of Henrythe marriage VI1L, of the James Castle IV. of assignedNewark, towith her the as wholea part Forest of her of jointure Ettrick, lands. was afterBut ofthe this death she ofcould her husband,make little she advantage; is found com- for, plainingthese lands. heavily, Indeed, that the Buccleuch office of keeper had seizedwas latterly upon

SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 103

WhereNor point, living retiring, thing conceal’dhides a dell, might lie ; 'IWhere here’s swain,riothing or left woodman to fancy’s lone, guess. might dwell; And silence aids—though the steep hills tsendIn summer to the tide,lake aso thousand soft they rillsweep. ; Your horse’s hoof-tread sounds too rude. theIt Loch is connected of the Lowes. with a smaller“ At the piece head of ofwater the lake,”called sketchessays Mr. inLeighton, ‘ Swan’s describingLakes of Scotland,’ one of Fleming’s “ and directly finest overChapelhope, the old thetower, rugged are and the broken braes, outskirts or four ofhills, which of arevenanters. celebrated More as the distant, last retreat and ofpeeping the persecuted over these, Co- is theJVioffatdale. top of Carrifrangans,Towering above a Carrifrangans,dreadful precipice though in notCoomb, so distant, the highest is the mountain pointed summitin the south of the of White Scot- land.is given The by followingMr. Hogg, description in his Statistics of this of mountain Selkirk- ‘shire, The mountain,Agricultural then, Journal that is byfor farSeptember, the highest 1832. of themoody, surrounding which rises district, in the is immediate the White neighbourhood Coom of Pol- ofnot the touching boundary it. of ItSelkirkshire is the highest on thein west,the south though of 104 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE seenScotland. with itsFrom broad east, head, west, like north, Ben-Nevis and soath in itthe is thisnorth, mountain rising above is prodigious, all its brethren. and not toThe be equalled view from in nessScotland, and variety. excepting The that Frithsfrom Ben-Lomond, of Forth, Clyde, in rich- and Berwick,Solway are. though all in I view,never and,could it distinguish is said, the it. seaThe at towhole Ben-Voirlich range of the is seen:Grampians the Cheviot from Ben-Lomond hills on the andeast borders;Westmoreland; all the highthe mountainsIsle of Man, of CumberlandArran, and andthe intermediateNithsdale rising mountains behind ofeach Galloway, other like Ayrshire, waves of froma stormy it, which sea. IIt doubt; is said but that I havefifty notowns doubt are that seen it measurementmay be seen offrom Hartfield fifty towns.be at all Ifcorrect, Dr. Walker’swhich I feetlikewise above doubt, the Solway;then White for Coomthe difference is precisely of their4040 elevationThe low wasgrounds ascertained on the last left year are bycalled Mr. Johnston.’Kirkstead theBents Brakenlaw. ; and beyond, Here onthe the river same Meggat side, joinsis a hill the called lake. cipitateOver the and top ofrocky this craighill is whichseen a portionoverhangs of a Lochpre- flowsSkene. through The river Meggatdale, Meggat, abefore wild joiningdistrict, theand lake, the partprincipal of the hunting country.” scene of the royal Stuarts in this 29 Proceedingmiles from onwards,Selkirk, andthe 11tourist from reaches Moffat. Birkhill, From thisSkene, place and a visitthe celebratedmay be made cataract to Dobb’s called linn. the GreyLoch SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 105 Mare’s Tail. But we must return upon our main | lineThe of roadroute. from Selkirk to Melrose runs along the lenters(south hankTeviotdale of the Ettrick.in Roxburghshire. A mile from Two Selkirk miles it 'beyondTweed, thiswhence is thethe confluenceroad proceeds of thealong Ettrick the banks and Sofhills, the passing latter theriver, world-renowned round the base Abbotsford of the Eildonon the ford,south theside Tweedof the river.is joined I mmediately from the northbelow byAbbots- Gala encewater. of LordA mile Somerville, onwards andis the below Pavilion, it the thevillage resid- of MelroseGattonside, by awhich wire-bridge is connected thrown acrosswith the the townTweed. of ‘ whichThe Edinburgh the tourist road is approaching by Gala water Melrose, joins at that Melrose along Melrose is finely situated on the south bank of the formTweed. of a Ittriangle, is “ a curious with small antique streets little leading place, outin the of thecross, corners.”* a structure In supposedthe centre to of be the coeval triangle with is the grossesAbbey itself;nearly thebut wholeit is the attention latter ofedifice tourists. which Mel- en- rosechurch, Abbey which was alone founded remains, in 1136, is 287by Davidfeet in I.length, The :andiin height.157 in greatest“ Its ruins,” breadth. says The Sir tower Walter is 84Scott, feet “and afford Gothic the sculpturefinest specimen which Scotlandof Gothic can architecture boast. The ., stoneweather of forwhich so man it is y built,ages, retains though perfect it has sharpness, resisted the so . * Cttambers.

107 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE this, the Tillage of Earlston, or Ercildoune, once the residencehonoured ofwith Thomas the royal the Rhymer,residence andin Veryoccasionally: ancient1 of Fromthe most Melrose exquisite to Kelso scenery. is a continuousA mile below succession Mel- rosewhere we are pass the the remains village of of an Newstead ancient ecclesiastical:on the left, isedifice, Old Melrose;called Red and Abbeystead. two miles beyondOne this,mile thefarther vil- thelage road of Eildon. from EdinburghSoon after to the Jedburgh, point of junctionby Lauder,j of offwe passon the the leftvillage to ofa Newtown.suspension Herebridge a roadacross strikes, the Abbey,Tweed, whicherected the in tourist 1818, oughtand leading not to passto Dryburghunvisited. effectNothing of themore fine exquisite ruins of can this be abbey, imagined and thanthe local the andscenery access around readily it. grantedThe grounds to any arerespectable admirably visitor. kept, ofIn SirSt. Mary’sWalter aisleScott, were on depositedthe 26th of the September, mortal remains 1832.; theA mile village beyond of St. this Boswell, point, onat whichthe road a great to Kelso, annual is MoreSo fair pleasant on Cowdenknowes, far to me the broom clearedThe soil of of broom, the Cowdenknowes cultivated, and is finallyextremely suffered fine. toIt lie was in oncefal- lowagain ; whengrowing it displayed up in broom. the tendencies In the ofpresent its original improved nature state by trial;of agriculture, but the itbroom is not islikely still everproduced, to be inagain a veryput toluxuriant such a knowesstate, in house.”—CSomfers.the beautiful pleasure-grounds attached to Cowden- SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. church,cattle and and, hiring on the fairopposite is held. side ofPassing the river, Maxton Mer- tounsight house,of Littledean a seat of Tower,Scott of now Harden, in ruins. we comeAbout in thetwo favouritemiles north feudal from ruinMertoun of Sir is SmallholmeWalter Scott, Tower, who "spentvicinity. a great “ It part is situated,”of his childhood says Sir in Walter,the immediate in the John,’introduction “on theto hisnorthern fine ballad,boundary ‘ The of EveRoxburgh- of St. shire,Rnow-Crags, among athe cluster property of wildof Hughrocks, Scott,called Esq.Sandi- of roundedHarden. byThe an outertower wall,is a high now square ruinous. building, The sur-cir- cuitby a ofprecipice the outer and court, morass, being isdefended accessible on threeonly sides,from ments,the west, as isby usual a steep in aand Border rocky keep, path. or fortress,The apart- are placednarrow onestair; above on the another, roof are and two communicate bartizans, or byplat- a theforms, tower for isdefence Wood, theor pleasure.outer an ironThe gate;inner thedoor dis- of tancenamely, between of the themwall. beingFrom nine the elevatedfeet, the situation thickness, of Smaylho’medirection. Among Tower, theit is cragsseen manyby which miles it in is every sur- rounded,md is said one, to havemore beeneminent, the stationis called of the a Watchfold,beacon, in sheower-court times of is wara ruined with chapel.England. Brotherstone Without isthe a leath,Six milesin the fromneighbourhood St. Boswell’s, of Smaylho'me is Makerston; Tower.” the jorderourist nexthistory; passes then the castlecrosses of theRoxburgh, united streamfamous inof 110 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE the Teviot and Tweed, by a noble bridge, and enters is theKelso Abbey, is a beautiful a tine specimen town. ofIts Saxonprincipal architecture. antiquity ruinsIt was of foundedRoxburgh in Castle,1128. isNearly Fleurs, opposite the seat toof the describedDuke of byRoxburgh. Dr. Douglas The :—“ neighbourhood The beauties isof thus the ofscenery Roxburgh which exceedsurround all description.the site of theA ancient little to citythe precipicewest of this lined the with public trees, road through lies along which the thetop oftra- a andveller deep,’ perceives far belowthe Tweed, him. rollingAt a distance, ‘ dark, drumly, on the largeother plain,hand, heand sees bounded the Teviot by a meanderingrocky, woody sound bank. a lowWhile water, contemplating and grand these while rivers, in Hood, fctuly the beautiful spectatoi in thesuddenly wood, loseswhich sight overshadows-him of them and every in a thing hollow- else o£ b«HthS untilway. a Inmost this enchanting gloomy path scene he opensgoes only upon a himfewpaces all al ofonce; Roxburgh's the prominent seat at featuresFleurs; whereofSir George are theDouglas’s Dukt atthe Spring Tweed wood on thePark; left thehand; Teviot two onbeautiful the right bridges and veller'sover these; eye asand he passesKelso, eastward.in all its glory,From full a inparticuku the tra. ficentspot in view. the village Under of Roxburghthe spectator’s there eye is alsothe aparish niagni, oi aRoxburgh beautiful lieslandscape; fully displayed, the Tweed like aw-ashing map, and its form* bor- south.ders on Therethe north, is an andobservatory, the Teviot or summer partly onhouse thi SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. hills),bnilt on by the the top late of Hon. Dun’s Baron Law Rutherford, (one of the of highestFairn- crowdedington, which with objects commands for particular a prospect or toocritical vast descrip-and too 'view,tion. loftyFrom mountains, this spot theverdant eye contemplates,hills, fruitful plains,at on# threebeautiful renowned rivers, castles,populous and towns, a peep extensive of the German woods, Ocean.”If from Kelso the tourist should wish to make a Acircuitjare:—Coldstream,9miles; by the eastern coast, Cornhill,the route 10A and ; Berwick,distances p3|;inn, 40J;Ay ton, C'ookburnspath, 32 J; Houndwood 45; inn,Broxmouth, 37 J ; Renton 52); inent,iDunbi*-, 72; 54; Musselburgh, Linton, 59); 66; Haddington,Portobello, 79;65 ; Edin-Tra- burgh,From-Kelso 82; Glaifow, to Hawick 124. is a distance of 20 miles. TheTh« sceneryroad then as passesfar as EckfordCrailing iskirk very and beautiful. manse, Haughhead,Sho#tiveacres, and Bonjedward, enters Hawick. Newton, If Denholm,time and con-and venienceof the Jed permit, up to Jedburgh.the tourist should“ The valeexplore of the the Jed,” vale toyssents Chambers. no such view “ is as not that spacious; of Tweed it at thereforeKelso. But,pre- asextensive it is serpentine or imposing, and areirregular, much more its views, varied, if infinite, not so andthe evenbanks picturesque. of the stream, At heevery discovers step one a takesnovel along and strikingOn this varietyaccount, in if the view general hunting tone be of the the only landscape. object pennyworthsof any of my readers,for his money and should and time,he also I wishadvise to havehim 112 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE by all means to come here. Here he will find as twomuch miles gross along amount the ofJed. good as helandscape will find in ita possiblewalk of ride.to obtain Jf bettereven inauthority the Highlands be wanting, in areference whole day’smay scenesbe made on to crystal Burns, Jed,’ who and speaks has expressedsomewhere the of highest‘ Eden satisfactionArcadia of hiswith native this land.”part of his tour through the milesFrom by GoldilandHawick to tower, Langholm Allanmouth is a distance castle, I!inks, of 23 allIrbleton, Border Langholm land, and famous,castle, and therefore, Redpath. in the This annals is tanceof early of times. 16 miles. From In Langholmthis part toof Annan the route, is a dis-the greattourist notoriety makes inhis the nearest annals approach of Hymen, to thea spot famous, of so or Fromrather Annaninfamous, to GretnaDumfries, Green. a distance of 15& enlivenedmiles, the withroad maritime is through views a fine of thepastoral Frith districtof Sol- Dumfries is 71J miles distant from Glasgow, viz. 26};—to Thornhill,Muirkirk,42}; 14J; Ploughland,47};to Eccles, 20}; Dykend,51};to Sanquhar, Glasgow,Strathaven, 71}. 53} ; Kilbride, 63}; Rutherglen, 69}; SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 113 SIXTH TOUR. FROM INVERNESS TO HOUNA INN. Inverness,ness, 12^—Route 232—Culloden—Fort to Aberdeen indicatedGeorge from' .Beauty Inver- from— Tain, Inverness, 46£—Dornoch, 123—Dingwall, 73^—Golspie, 21^—Strathpeffer 84— ness—Wick,Brora, 89—Helmsdale, 137|—Houna, 100S—The 154^. Ord of Caith- InPocket the eleventhGuide,’ tourvve havelaid downconducted in our the ‘ Steam tourist Boat by nessFort ; Williamand have and given the a Caledoniandescription ofCanal, that toline Inver- town andthe delineationits localities. of severalWe shall different devote pleasurethis chapter routes to whichto that may conducting be taken to from the extremethis point, northern and especially point of theFrom island. Inverness to Fort George, a distance of 12 J miles,Moray thefrith. road At skirts the distancethe southern of 2J miles,shore ofa roadthe strikesmile beyond off on this the isright Culloden to the House;burgh of 1 Nairn.mile to theA southof the ofhouse which of Stuartis Culloden were annihilatedmoor, where by thethe Dukehopes ofbattle Cumberland, field is thus on described the 16th by of the April, Messrs. 1746. Ander- The sons“ Itin istheir quite excellent evident ‘ Guide.’ that no Highland troops shouldwas to protecthave fought and cover there, Inverness, even though especially their objectwhen 114 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE opposed by horse and artillery: and it seems equally nesscertain among that thethere leaders was something when they worse periled than their foolish- cause wason an so open near heath,them. whileHad a therough rebel and army hilly also country fallen previouson the Duke night, of as Cumberland’s was attempted, camp they at would Nairn, have the hadfound mixed him inprepared; the ranks for of thetheir duke’s adversaries Highlanders during: thetheir march, approach. and sentThere intelligence being no tumulusevery half or hourobelisk of placeon the (a heath want to which mark wethe hopespot whereto see the soon contest remedied took someby a publicdifficulty subscription), in finding it; visitors and we often must experience therefore aendeavour ridge of tothe assist moor them. just whereThe battle its general was fought surface on carriagebegins to road incline from towards Inverness the hasriver recently Nairn. been A made new atthrough their northernit, which extremity.touches the principalBefore reaching line of graves them, itsthe square castle ofmassive Dalcross, form which a little had to thebeen left seen of araising wood whichfrom theterminates view, and the shortly moor afterwards,on the east, indisappears the very- oppositeDun Daviot direction, comes the in pine-cladsight, closing conoidal in the summit vista onof ofthe the south-west. road before Then, the passenger where a considerable (about a quarter portion oj a miletabular in length)rocky hillleads bearing the eye south-east, directly to at the the top dis- of line,tance drawnof 5 or from 6 miles, Dun it willDaviot, be found just thatmentioned, a straight to SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. Fort George, which is seen rising at the termination ofFrith, a long will peninsulacut across jutting the public out roadinto justthe Morayat the ' collectionor three grass-covered of graves sought mounds, for. risingThey consistslightly of above two !i 300the adjoiningyards from heath, a small at the patch distance of corn of about land 200and ora ,; clusterhollow ofalso cottages, intervenes. between On which all sides and themthe prospect a marshy is hereness ofbleak the andground, dreary; points while it outthe asgeneral favourable smooth- for tionablythe movements ill adapted of cavalry for the and protection artillery, or but defence propor- of onthe whichfoot soldier. Prince SuchCharles is Edwardthe nature ventured of the toground peril hisHis cause army against was drawn the disciplined up a little troops to the of west England. of the graves,wards the in aparks line ofright Culloden across House.”the moor inclining to- tionFort in Scotland.George is theIt occupies only regularly the extremity built fortifica- of a low ■i sandy peninsula, jutting out into the frith, nearly j toopposite a breadth [to Fortrose, of little moreso as thanto contract 1 mile. the The entrance ram- , parts:an be on let threeinto thesides fosse rise at nearly pleasure. from Therethe sea, are which four (bastionszines; mountedand accommodation with 80 cannon for ; 3000bomb-proof men. Thema- inttire theworks tourist cover wishes a space to ofproceed 15 acres. to Aberdeen,If from this his |ute miles; will beto asForres, follows 10$ : to miles Nairn farther: from Inverness,to Elgin, ; to Banff,Fochabers, 7£; to9; Turreff, to Cullen, 11; to124; Old to Meldrum, Portsoy, 116 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE verness.17; to Aberdeen,The principal 171; total,points 118J of scenerymiles from on thisIn- route,Another are at agreeable Elgin and excursion Fochabers. may be made from TheInverness road passesto Beauly, through 12 milesa remarkably to the north-west.,fine district traveller,called the thatAird. there “ Itare is notthe manysaying rides of aof thorough a more westwardvarious and to animatingBeauly. castThe thanroad thatruns from along Inverness the bor- dersened ofby theboats Beauly and shipping; Frith, which and thereis generally is an enliv-air ol farmspeculiar by comfort which itand is skirted.opulence Thein the opposite cottages side and ii tosingularly the water’s rich andedge, picturesque, and covered sloping with gently cultivatior dowr housesand trees, of theamong wealthy which proprietors. are scattered Advancing the countrj b tothe open west, in the endless blue mountains variety; ofleading Ross-shire the eyecontinui inti numerouswhich are seenwild andplantations rocky valleys, of fir, andat the the entrance cultivate* o groundsare the ofancient the Frasers, inhabitants Chisholms, of andthis others, district. wh* name.Beauly Beauis a lieu.neat littleThere town, are notin theunworthy vicinity of thit byruins French of a priory,monks, founded who conferred in 1230, andthe namefirst occupio on the ofplace. Lovat, Beaufort is a fine castle, building, the erectedprincipal on seatthe siteof Frase of tl> oldand castle,a-half whichfrom Beaulywas burnt are thedown Falls in 1746.of Kilraorac$ A mil Chambers. SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 117 “ Here the river Beauly, which in magnitude rivals sheet,the Clyde over ora precipicethe Dee, ofdescends, 20 feet inin oneheight, unbroken into a deepings ofcavern, apprehension. which cannot There be itviewed remains without in sluggish feel- throughmotion for narrow a time, openings and then in slowly the rockforces ; afterwardsits passage glidingcharges itselfmajestically into the throughMoray Frith. a wooded On thedale, northern it dis- sideof the of cliff,the cataract from whence a tower the is erectedbest view upon is obtainedthe brow ; ' butriver, from there the is aminister’s charming garden view of that the overhangsFalls, and thethe romanticobservation. situation of a saw-mill will not escape entersProceeding Ross-shire, from andBeauly draws to Dingwall,some imposing the tourist views tractof the of grand hills, scenerypenetrated of Westerby a few Ross, lonely “a roads, frightful and milesthinly from inhabited.” Beauly. TheIt is burgha dirty oflooking Dingwall town, isbut 9 lingsurrounded and Kenney,with beautiful in their scenery. excellent Messrs. ‘ Tourist’s Stir- makeGuide,’ a detourrecommend from Dingwallthe lover throughof the picturesque, the delightful to valleynorthwards of Strathpeffer. of the mineral Awells short in Strathpeffer,distance to “isthe seenof the the well-house lofty Ben-Wyvis, rises Knock 3720 Farril, feet high. on whichIn front is a vitrifiedness is distinctlyfort. The seen whole from country hence, towardsbesides severalInver- interestinging a few milesvalleys south-west, in the neighbourhood. on the right Proceed- is Coul i House, the delightful mansion of Sir G. S. Mac- 118 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE kenzie, Bart., and a little beyond is Tor Achilty, a littlekill composed enthusiasm of plumb-puddingmay be excused stone;in contemplating and here a ofthis the bewitching rivers Conan scenery. and Rasay, In front which, is justthe junctionprevious terracesto their formedunion, haveby stones thrown of allup varietya series andof curious' shape, andnatural which, wood at ofthe every base formof the and hill, beauty. are covered This with! for- est reaches nearly to the top of the hill, and likewise!1 skirtingderness. itsThe base Conan for miles,sweeps forms along a thedelightful base of wil-the smoothly,hill for a considerablebut oftener distance,tumultuously sometimes dashing gliding over abroken beautiful rocks fall. Jin ragingGoing violence; upwards it through has at one this place en- embosomedchantingly wildin hills, place, with reach its banks Loch splendidly Achilty, wooded finely laketo the is water’s Tor Achilty edge. Aton thethe otherone hand, extremity and ofCraig- this darrochCaptain onMurray, the other; R.N. ahas beautiful erected situation,a handsome W'here cot- tage,placed in almost which upon he hasthe displayedmargin of much the loch taste; ; behind it is! ralthe cottagecoppice-wood are rocks shooting of immense from height,their creviceswith natu- in anmost hour’s fascinating walk of forms. this snug Two retreat, other one lakes a gemare within set in ingfiligree—a in calm beautiful serenity circularthe wooded sheet bosom of water, of a occupy- moun- greattain—the ridge, other having possessing a heronry a hollow on theon thetrees top of of its a singleFrom island.” Dingwall the road passes along the northern SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 119 shore of the Frith of Cromarty, through a fine and formswell cultivated the most conspicuousdistrict of objectcountry. on the-west. Ben WyvisThe topsnow of till this the mountain very warm was summernever known of 1826. to he Aboutwithout 5 milesEvantoun. from Dingwall,Passing Novar is the and flourishing bridge of Alness,village weof reachDingwall. Invergordon, Beyond at this the distancea fine view of 131 is obtainedmiles from of hillsthe Frithwhich and flank the the ‘ Soutersmouth ofof Cromarty,’the Frith of as Cro-two martyThe arenext called. stage is Tain, 26 miles from Dingwall. slopingThis is groundthe capital on the of southlioss-shire. shore of Itthe occupies Frith ofa roadDornoch, from and Tain is aboutto Dornoch,” a mile from says theMr. sea. Chambers, “ The “between is one ofthe the two most towns singular is pretty imaginable. much likeThe that frith of relativethe Forth, situation though to smaller; Dornoch and nearly Tain similar stands to inthat a whichKirkaldy. Edinburgh Instead occupies of going in regard directly to theacross town the of water,winds roundwhich thewould bed beof theonly frith, four as miles, it were the by coach Stir- ling,is true, a distancefor pedestrians of thirty-one. and small Therevehicles, is acalled ferry, the it Mickleibly circuitous, Ferry of being Dornoch about ; butthree even miles that above is intoler- Tain, inddie twofive milesabove ofDornoch, sea, making and, the therefore, distance includingin all ten miles.”•ery elegant The structure,coach route erected is by in Bonar1812, atBridge, an ex- a lense of L. 14,000. It is of three arches, the princi- 120 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE milespal one beyond being ofthe iron, bridge and is150 Creich feet in Kirk, the span. where Two are inn,some 10 interesting miles beyond antiquarian Bonar is remains. situated atClashmore the com- mensemencement estate of of the MarchionessEarldom of ofSutherland, Stafford. Dornoch the im- theis a poorBishops little of place, Sutherland although and once Caithness, the residence and the of coast,county the town tourist of Sutherland.passes several Advancingpleasing little along fishing the villages,“where,” such says asChambers, Golspie, “aBrora, scene and of activityHelmsdale, and prosperitythe most zealous is displayed, and unthinking quite sufficient advocate to ofreconcile the old tion.system Theof sloth people, and withoutclanship, anyromance change and in starva- theii well-lodgedhumble virtues, instead are industriousof ill-lodged, instead clean of instead indolent o isfilthy, best wealthyof all, seem instead perfectly of poor, contented and moreover with whathei now,improved of condition.course, almost The interiordepopulated. of the countyIn som i milesparishes, long notwithstanding and half as many their broad, being the perhaps ministe 1' dozenseldom individuals.”raises a congregation Helmsdale of ismore one ofthan the half chit herring1814, and fishery has increased stations. withIt wasastonishing founded rapidit; only j itFor gains 3 miles the topbeyond of a stupendousthis place, therange road of ascendsmountail ti calledCaithness. the Ord,On whichthe left, divides in the Sutherlandshire bottom, is Navidal fro theBerriedale last arable is farm the firstin the village earldom of Caithnessof Sutherland. whii SCENERY OF SCOTLAND. 121 hoodthe tourist are the on remains this line of enters. a very ancientIn the castle,neighhour- once theFive residence miles beyond of the Sutherlands,this village islords Dunbeath of Berriedale. castle theand touristinn ; at then the passes7th milearoad Latheron, takes 10 miles off to; Notting-Thurso ; townham ofHouse, Clyth 12;inn, Swinie,16 ; East 13; Clyth, Ulbstcr, 19 ; Hempriggs,15; Mill- 24;dale andenters at Wick,the distance the county of 27 townmiles offrom Caithness. Berrie- ofThis 2000 is souls.a thriving About little 2 milestown beyond with aWick population are the ruinsof the of Earls Girnigo of Caithness. and Sinclair Twenty castles, milesformerly of whatseats veneMr. Chambersbetween Wick pronounces and the “ hamletexecrable of road,”Houna, inter- the north-eastJohn O’Groat extremity is familiar of Scotland. to most Thetourists. legend “ ofA withLowlander his brother of that arrived name,” in saysCaithness, Chambers, in the “along reign recommendedof James IV., thembearing to thea letter gentlemen from theof theking county. which becameThey procured the founders land atof this families. remote Whenspot, settled, the race and of branches,Groat had the increased amity towhich the amounthad hitherto of eight character- different dencyized them or chiefship.was interrupted One night,by a question in the courseof prece- of someat the festivity, head of athe quarrel table arosenext theas door;to who high should words sit beensued at hand ; and by the means ruin of of their the wholeinjudicious family dissension. seemed to wasIn this proprietor emergency, of the one ferry of them oyer namedto Orkney, John, rose,who 122 GUIDE TO THE PICTURESQUE, &C. and, having stilled their wrath by soft language, theassured point them, at issue.that at Accordingly,next meeting he he erected, would settleupon 'building,the extreme having point a doorof their and territory,window atan every octagonal side, j and,and furnishedwhen the withnext aoccasion table of exactlyof festivity the same took shapeplace, ; takedesired the each corresponding of his kin toseat enter at the at table.his own The door, strik- and 1 scruples;ing originality and, withof theperfect idea equality,fairly overcame the former all ; goodThe foundationshumour of theor ruinsfraternity of this was house also whichrestored.. is perhapsstill to be the seen.” most celebrated in the whole world are OrkneyFrom islands.Houna thereThe isdistances a regular art;: ferry Houna to theto Berwick,Ramsound, 18 6;miles; Ramsound Berwick to to Kirkwall,Carra, 9; 8.Carra Total to 41 Frommiles. Houna inn to Thurso, by the post-road, distancewinding ofalong 20 miles the western ; and from coast this of townCaithness there isis a'a ofgood Caithness. road to Berriedale,There is also even another through line the through very heart the centrenoch Frith. of Sutherlandshire to the head of the Dor-

Glasgow E. Khull, Prii: